[MCR] Roger Pass Dec 28-30th

Hello Everyone,

I spent the past three days skiing in the Rogers Pass area. We skied in the Illecillewaet Glacier/Pearly Rock area, Balu Pass/Cougar Brook and The Hermit/Swiss Glacier area. Ski quality was excellent with consistent boot top and above cold powder in all three areas and no wind effect on the surface, although there were old buried wind slabs along exposed ridges at treeline in the alpine. Besides surface sloughing in steep terrain I observed no avalanche activity. 

 

The average snow pack depth at treeline was 220cm. 

Happy New Year!

Jeff Bullock
Climbing, Skiing, Custom Mountain Adventures
IFMGA/ACMG Certified Mountain Guide

www.alpineairadventures.com

[MCR] Rockies - Burstall Pass area

Spent the last 3 days in Commonwealth Creek, Birdwood Creek, the Upper Spray River and Burstall Creek - all on the border between Kananaskis Country and Banff National Park.

20 cm of light powder is on the surface, making for great skiing everywhere except where the wind has roared through passes or in alpine areas.  Temps ranged from -8 to -23 this morning, and even the south facing skiing is excellent. 

The snowpack on the west side of the passes is 200 cm deep at treeline, and 140 down in the valley bottoms.  Feels very strong; I did not dig a profile but probed alot and although I could feel a crust near the bottom of the snowpack, it did not concern me. 

Other than isolated pockets of windslab at higher elevations and near passes, I did not have any avalanche concerns.  Conditions are awesome!

Happy new year.

Grant Statham

Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________________
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[MCR] Rockies, Rogan's Gully

I guided an ascent of Rogan's Gully today, Dec 30th. The route remains in good shape but since my last trip there on Dec 27th a size 1.5 avalanche ran from above the climb coming to rest below the "narrows". It would have been possible to have been buried by this slide in several places, and knocked off in many more. I suspect that the slide was triggered by the sun, but I am not sure on that. A definitive example of how Moderate or Low Avalanche Hazard does not mean 'no' avalanche hazard. My guests and I carried avalanche beacons, probes and shovels on both of these recent trips.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Commonwealth Creek, K-Country, AB Rockies

Twas a chilly -24.5C when we left the van at 8h15 this morning but it warmed to a balmy -14C (approx -20C with wind chill) at our high point of 2400 metres.  We found pretty much exactly what the Bulletin told us we would.  Advanced surface facetting (sugar snow) and isolated surface hoar growth observed in size up to 10mm below treeline.  It will be tricky to predict its location once the next snowfall arrives.  Hopefully the forecasted warm temperatures will happen to settle this surface and eliminate this potential weak layer.

Of note were the strong alpine winds from the W-SW all afternoon.  Big plumes of snow were being transported from ridgetops.  Lee slopes at high elevations are loading as I type.

Ken Bélanger

TopCog Adventures | Outdoor Guiding & Adventure Travel

ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide, CAA2

[MCR] Coire Dubh

Hello

Climbed the route to the top of the ice yesterday and found it to be in great shape.  There is some wet ice on the first pitch but its dry for the rest of it and there's no snow on the rock pitches above.  There were a few windslabs in the gully between the pitches and we chose to belay these spots but we did not have or see any avalanche activity.

Have fun and Happy New Year!

Mike Stuart

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide

Mike@CanadianAlpineGuides.com

[MCR] Murchison Falls

Hello

Was up the route a few days ago and found generally good conditions.  There is a small cornice on the climbers left side but it is easy to avoid the hazard by picking a line up the right side of the ice.  There are  caves and protected stances for belays.  All of the large daggers that form around the last pitch have snapped off and there is currently an easy ramp that trends out right to finish the last pitch.

My Daddy's a Psycho (WI5+) is in and looks quite good with lots of ice.

Happy New Year!

Mike Stuart

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide

Mike@CanadianAlpineGuides.com

[MCR] Howsons 29 December

Early season in the Howsons: 120 cm HS at the lodge, 220 at treeline.
Great weather and good skiing on cold low density snow. A test pit a
treeline showed no significant shears, but we did not dig to ground. I
expect some basal facets, but they may be not very thick. We saw no
recent avalanche activity and ski cutting of steep pockets had no
results besides surface sluffing.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Qualified Avalanche Planner CAA
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, Guiness Gully, High Test

I guided ascents of Guiness Gully and High Test today, Dec 29th. Guiness is big and blue and takes long screws from ground zero. There is a trail broken up to Guiness Stout. To get to High Test take the higher traverse line from Guiness (involves a wee, wee bit of snow scrambling to get to the traverse). Lots of cold and compact ice on both routes today. A shallow snowpack in this area at present: 30-50 cm below treeline, 50-100cm at treeline.

We rappeled High Test and then walked/scrambled and bum slid down the descent gully (one 30 m rap in the steepest part of the descent gully).

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Accidents in North American Mountaineering

Just passing this on for the ACC:

Folks,

we are back collecting accident reports for Accidents in North American
Mountaineering.
We have a new Canadian Content Editor, Robert Chisnall from Toronto, the
National Safety Committee has taken over responsibility and we have
reestablished the connection with the American Alpine Club.

Right now we are collecting information about mountaineering accidents for
2012. There is an online form for submission on the ACC website
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/news/ANAM.html

If you know of accidents, especially those which would be instructive for
all of us, please consider submitting them.

I would also appreciate if you could forward this message and the link to
your contacts in the mountain rescue community as widely as possible.

I plan on putting a link on the MRA linkedin page.

I wish you all a Merry Christmas, deep powder, champagne and face shots

Ernst

Ernst Bergmann
Chair, Safety Committee, Alpine Club of Canada
safety@alpineclubofcanada.ca
780-720-1705



_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Kootenay Pass, Southern Selkirk Mountains

Went for a tour up the Cornice Ridge side of Kootenay Pass today. Drove
up into the fog, but by 10AM it cleared off. Then the clouds started
coming back in around noon. Temperatures hovered around -8C during the
day.

Didn't see any evidence of recent avalanche activity, but plenty of
evidence of wind. The storm snow of last week was well settled with ski
penetration being no more than boot top. I managed to kick off a very
small wind slab from a north facing, steep rib off of Buzz's Ridge. The
amount of snow that slid would have only filled a couple of
wheelbarrows, but but it reminded us we shouldn't let our guard down.
We skied mainly east or south east facing slopes where the ski quality
was very good.

Have a safe and happy holiday season.

Craig Hollinger,
ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, Essondale Right

Dec 28th:

[MCR] Rockies, Riverside, Kicking Horse Canyon

[MCR] Rockies, Pretty Nuts

I guided an ascent of Pretty Nuts today, Dec 28th. The route is in great shape. The canyon busy once the world wakes up -lots of traffic.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com


Pretty Nuts first two steps, Dec 28th:

[MCR] Avalanche Crest, Roger's Pass, 12/12/27

Hi

I guided an avalanche crest trip today in Roger's Pass.  Great travel and ski conditions.

Weather:

Today:  Overcast skies, very light snow accumulation, light winds

Avalanche Activity: limited to sloughing out of steep terrain

In addition to Scott's post on the 25th regarding the surface hoar layer: Up to ten centimetres of light fluff now blankets this surface hoar layer.  It is becoming reactive  to skier traffic (as fast moving slough) in steeper terrain such as pillows and gullies.  

Pay attention to new snow accumulation in the next few days.

Jonny Simms                             

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

1(604)815-9225

Golden, BC

[MCR] Rockies, Bourgeau Right Hand, Rogan's Gully

I guided an attempt on the Bourgeau Right Hand today, Dec 27th. We broke a trail up to the climb. Several size 1 surface sloughs as you get close to the rock wall. The first pitch is a patina of thin, thin ice. It would be a very serious lead at present, too serious for us so we bailed and headed to Rogan's Gully.

Rogan's has grown to a big blue ice line since my last visit on Nov 29th. The route is in good shape.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

Bourgeau RH

[MCR] Lady Killer ice climb

I guided 'Lady Killer' today in the the Kicking Horse canyon.

We decided to head west from Banff to warmer temperatures and hopes of a little sunshine.  We were rewarded with both.

The ice is in good shape – dry, thick, and takes good protection throughout.

We approached the first steep pitch via the WI2 steps in the right hand fork as you hike up the drainage.

The climb is a WI4 and not a WI3 as the guidebook claims.

 

Other climbs in the canyon have thickened up significantly in the last week, and also look to be in good shape.

We did not witness any avalanche activity.

 

 

 

Lady Killer first pitch

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

www.facebook.com/Rockiesice

Banff

[MCR] Rockies, Healy Creek slide paths

Had a great day of skiing in the Healy Creek slide paths today, Dec 26th. We set an uptrack through some recent size 1 sloughs off of rock cliffs and the ice climb, "Faux Pas". No other avalanches observed.

Happy trails,
and Happy New Year,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Monashee Mtns - Mt. MacPherson - Dec.25/2012

Best of the Season to all,

Here are a few observations from this morning’s ski tour in the “Fingers” of Mt. MacPherson.

 

Weather today was a thin overcast with no precipitation and cool temps (-2 in the valley).

 

Travel conditions have improved tremendously from last week’s wait deep trail breaking with ski penetration in the 20-25cms range. Lots of tracks in the fingers from the last few days as usual but we still managed to find a fresh line and there are others around for sure.

 

Avalanche activity was limited to small sluffs out of the steep rock bands which looked like they were triggered by tree bombs within the last 48hours.

 

The most significant observation was the presence of surface hoar(those feathery snow crystals that form on clear nights) on the snow surface -  variable size- 3-6mm.

 

It sounds like this is a widespread layer, and as it is currently snowing lightly in town, likely hidden and protected. The good news is that it is overlying fairly soft snow and didn’t have a chance to grow too large, but still something to keep in mind in the future as snows accumulate over it.

 

Have a great holiday season and may your New Year be a fluffy one!

Cheers,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] AUTO: Bradford White is nowhere to be found. (returning 30/01/2013)

I am out of the office until 30/01/2013.

try b.white@telus.net for urgent mail messages.


Note: This is an automated response to your message "[MCR] South Coast -
Blackcomb Backcountry, Dec 24 2012" sent on 24/12/2012 9:52:59 PM.

This is the only notification you will receive while this person is away.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] South Coast - Blackcomb Backcountry, Dec 24 2012

December 24: Guiding in the backcountry off Blackcomb Mountain; Conditions -- surprisingly very good! Despite the strong winds reported yesterday, there was little wind effect observed on most aspects - except high ridge top and exposed southerly slopes. About 30cm of low density snow made the skiing terrific. It was one fine way to spend Christmas Eve day! We skied: Spearhead glacier: Very minor wind effect. Not quite enough to effect the skiing but slightly upside-down. Still lots of open crevasse and sags in this area. Definitely required a good look and some attention when skiing down. Vista Bowl: Conditions were pretty much perfect. Completely unaffected by the wind. A little thin in places which would make it tough to fit too many tracks -- but it is great skiing right now. Lower NE shoulder of Decker: Skied a line just left of the Chisel couloir. Good consistent snowpack in this area. Seems this area sees very little wind effect. Decker - 9th Hole: Again, great snow conditions with hardly any wind effect. There had been a previous natural avalanche on a steep roll half-way down. Was quite wide but very little debris most likley > 48 hour ago.  Also a recent small cornice failure, just out of reach of the normal ski line. This run is abnormally smooth the whole way down, as there is hardly any cornice debris in the ski run.  Weather: Mainly sunny in the morning with light southeast winds. In the valley bottom below Decker there was moderate down-flowing winds. This wind was starting to create a thin wind-skin that was affecting ski quality. Clouds rolled in around 12 with a slight increase in wind speed. Have a great Christmas and New Year!!!!! Ross Berg IFMGA / ACMG Mountain Guide E: berg.ross@yahoo.com www.altusmountainguides.com

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Bourgeau

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on the Bourgeau slide
paths above the Sunshine Road tomorrow, Dec 24, 2012.

No climbing, skiing or any other activities in this area during this time
(Bourgeau Right and Left).

Thank you for your cooperation.

Parks Canada
Visitor Safety
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.facebook.com/parksmountainsafety
www.twitter.com/ParksMtnSafety

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Bourgeau Left

I guided Bourgeau Left today, December 22nd.  Winds were light this morning on our approach, and calm once we reached the base around 0845 am.  There was an average of 8cms of new snow at valley bottom that fell overnight with very little wind.

My guest and I enjoyed good ice and a couple doses of the screaming-barfies on our chilly ascent.  We were hoping for a bit of sun to warm our souls, but it only showed itself for 10 minutes before more clouds rolled in.

We followed an old trail up climbers right of the drainage to the base of the WI2 approach pitch.  Unlike my last two ascents of this route, the first WI4 pitch was well bonded to the rock behind it and offered good protection with mostly 13cm screws for the first 25m.  The last pitch felt harder this time around with some very steep WI5 ice in the last 5-6 meters before topping out.  The route was completely dry and not as brittle as I was expecting, given the low temperatures of last night.  FYI - you can descend the route in 3 rappels with 2x70m ropes.  Thanks to whomever added the new anchors to the start of the first pitch and the top of the 2nd pitch as the old ones were getting rusty.

 

We did not witness any avalanche activity.

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
www.facebook.com/RockiesIce
Twitter: @rockiesice
Banff

[MCR] Guiness Gully+Stout

I guided Guinness Gully and Guinness Stout today Dec 21st.  There was 2-3cms of new snow in this area from last night, with no sign of wind.

We were glad the forecasted temps didn't hold true for today.  At 0800 it was –7*c at the base of the gully and winds were calm.  Temperatures stayed mild for the entire day and made for some comfortable climbing.

 

Guinness Gully is fine shape and hasn't changed since the last MCR.

There is a good trail leading to Guinness Stout and the route is in excellent shape.  The top-out is still thin, with snow/ice over rock but only for a couple of meters. 

 

Happy Holidays

 

 

		Guinness Stout, Pilsner, and Carlsberg VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL This album has 3 photos and will be available on SkyDrive until 21/03/2013.

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
www.facebook.com/RockiesIce
Banff

[MCR] Selkirks - Northern Valhallas

Just finished up our first two weeks of operations at Valhalla Mountain Touring and figured I would give an update as to conditions in this part of the world.

The unbelievable early season snowpack just keeps piling up with 60-100cms of new snow in the last week (BTL to ALP), with a 2 meter settled snowpack common at 2000m.  Right now we have two primary avalanche concerns in the snowpack.  The first is recently formed wind slabs at treeline and alpine locations with limited natural and skier reactivity in storm snow interfaces.  The second concern is at the bottom of the snowpack where 30-40cm above the ground is the Nov 6 crust/facet interface.  Although deep, with a super strong snowpack above it, I am still concerned of shallow rocky areas, or large loads on specific terrain features.  Travel to the alpine has been extremely limited lately as the weather hasn't really stopped, so limited observations there, but there is definitely some wind effect to be dealt with.  For now the skiing at treeline and below is as good as it gets, so who cares about venturing higher!  Expect pretty deep trail breaking conditions as well, with ski penetration in the 40-60cm range.

Be safe, happy holidays!

Evan Stevens
Mountain Guide
Valhalla Mountain Touring

[MCR] Ice conditions in Waterton Lakes, December 21, 2012

Nice conditions while ice climbing on "Quick and Dirty" today with Tim Haggarty.  Wet ice and excellent protection throughout.
 
The Left and Center lines on Experts Choice now appear to be in good shape as well, expect them to be at the guidebook grade levels.  The Right side still looks thin down low and would not be recommended quite yet.
 
The various Compound Gullies and other moderate routes on Mt Crandell are also thick and in good shape with 10cm of snow from last night covering the lower angle areas.
 
Things will get more brittle and some of the newly formed pillars should be analysed carefully and possibly avoided as the temperatures plummet over the next few days...but currently routes are in good shape with moist ice and good protection.

 

Happy Holidays,
 
Conrad Janzen
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Ghost Ice - Valley of the Birds

> With it puking snow in Canmore this morning, we tried our luck once again Ghost side. Pat, Tim and I were rewarded w a beautiful sunrise. Only trace amounts of snow last night, sunny skies and temps hovering around -10C.
>
> Easy travel to Valley of the Birds (VOTB) w stock Pathfinder. We climbed the Eagle, Albatross and Seagull. There is sun on the latter in the AM, Albatross for most of the day. Only the top of the Eagle is getting sun right now.
>
> Route conditions:
> Approach ice - excellent
> Deadbird - thin bottom 5m
> Yellowbird - fat until upper lower angle
> Seagull - sporty for grade
> Albatross - fatter than I remembered it
> Eagle - well formed takes decent gear
>
> Fun and warm day out inspite of the fx'ed temps. Have a great weekend.
>
> Brent Peters
> Apprentice Alpine Guide
> Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
>
> The Eagle
>

[MCR] Mt. Klotz closure, Revelstoke National Park

It is that time of year again. The Mt Klotz closure will be in effect
starting Saturday Dec 15th until April
15th, 2013.

ANNUAL MT. KLOTZ SEASONAL CLOSURE IN EFFECT FROM
DECEMBER 15 TO APRIL 15, 2012-2013
All winter use of portions of Mt. Klotz (see map) in Mount Revelstoke
National Park is prohibited.
This closure helps ensure mountain caribou are not disturbed or displaced
from important
wintering habitat. Winter recreationists are reminded that entering a
closed area in the park without a permit is an offence under the Canada
National Parks Act, and is punishable on conviction
of a fine of up to $200,000.

For more information, and map of closure, visit
www.pc.gc.ca/mountrevelstoke and click on Important Bulletins or call:
250-837-7500.

Forwarded by:
Sylvia Forest, Mountain Guide
Mountain Safety Programs
Mt. Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Ghost Ice - Beowolf

Howdy Iceclimbers,

Another great day out in the Ghost w friends Larry, Pat and Tim. Today our travels took us up the next drainage EAST canyoneering up Beowolf.

The crux WI4 pitches seemed easy for the grade although glassy and brittle like Fang & Fist yesterday. Both pitches are dry. The last pitch was aerated making for challenging screw placements. The rambling ice in between is wet in places. The transitions from ice to snow need to be watched for pooling water.

We were able to avoid the last sporty creek crossing today by driving around it 50m on solid ice.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Louise Falls & Left Side Weeping Wall - Rockies Ice

Hey There,

Interesting day yesterday... Guided the better part of two routes, but can't really say we topped out either of them! 

Fun times all the same on Louise Falls and the Weeping Wall though.

The first pitch of Louise Falls has ice only on it's climbers left half, leaving the line totally exposed to the hang-fire above... which is gigantic right now. The best option to me seemed to be to make a 70-75m. sprint (we had an 80m rope) up and around the back of the pillar for a belay in the cave to avoid having to stop anywhere below the daggers. 

Pulling into the cave, the main pillar settled twice as I tip-toed around it, and continued to make all sorts of eery noises while I brought up my second. When we'd left the car, at 8:30am the thermometer read -21*C. By 11:30am, it was -7*C back at the truck.

It could have worked out... but based on the rapid temperature change, the number of odd noises the pillar kept making, it's slender form and the hang-fire overhead, it spooked me enough to pull the pin and got out of there.

Not psyched about being chased off, we grabbed some java in the Village and made a b-line for the Weeping Wall. Climbed the Left Side to within a stone's throw of the big anchor tree at the top of the route.

The line is still a bit thin in places but overall has really fun and interesting climbing on it, having to move around a bit to find the thicker stuff. Our first pitch was fat and plastic and took us to a belay just right of the rock outcrop that divides the Snivelling Gully and the Left Hand Route. The second pitch put us above and climbers left of the same piece of rock and than we climbed a pretty much straight shot to the top from there. 

The second and third pitches still have a fair number of big hollow shells, some of which had been punched through already. Seemed wise not to stick screws into them, which meant some bigger run-outs. We rapped the left side hitting the ground just in time to flick the headlamps on. 

All in, the line is pretty good right now, and worth heading up for. Both the Centre and Right side look like their game on as well.

Not my typical day of guiding... but definitely a ton of fun!

Be safe out there. 

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide

 

Cloud Nine Guides

Like Us: 

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Email: mike@cloudnineguides. 

[MCR] Cameron Lake Skiing, Waterton National Park

Despite extreme winds at Waterton townsite there was excellent skiing
on the first two E facing slidepaths above Cameron Lake today, which
had surprisingly little wind effect.

About 25 cm ski penetration with 50-60 cm of snow now sitting on the
Dec 3 crust and a total snowpack depth of about 140 cm. No cracking or
whoompfing, we were fairly careful but had increasing confidence on
treeline and below treeline features. The alpine is probably a
different story but we had limited obs up there with visibility. About
5 cm new snow today and still falling.

Good tracksetting by the park staff today, although with the winds it
will probably get filled in by tomorrow.

Tom

--
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
Canmore, AB
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Selkirks: Kokanee

Just thought we would send out a quick update from Kokanee Cabin prior to the weekend. We've been here since last Saturday and, with the exception of Tuesday, it has snowed steadily with a total of 164 cm falling. That includes 55 cm last night!

Winds have been generally light with occasional periods of moderate. Temperatures have been cold, in the -6 to -18 range. New snow densities have been very light, between 25-45 kg/m3 the entire time. Translation: Kootenay Cold Smoke at overhead levels!

We haven't seen any avalanches since Monday when there was an extensive, easily triggered storm and wind slab problem but avalanche sizes were small size ones only.

We haven't been able to travel far and have only skied close to the lodge at treeline elevations. Our primary avalanche concerns are some very soft buried windslabs within the storm snow. We suspect this windslab problem is of far greater concern in alpine areas. We have observed the November 28 surface hoar layer buried about 150 cm, and the basal faceting rain crust in thin areas but have not been able to produce any shear results on those layers with our testing.

Regardless, we are limiting our terrain choices to smaller, moderate-angled slopes. The skiing has been fantastic.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

Geoff Osler
Ski Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Ghost Ice - Fang & Fist

Howdy Iceclimbers,

Just getting out of the Ghost with friends Doug and Tim. Many thanks to Grant P and his team for the hard work in cleaning up and flagging the trail. We were able to drive all the way to Malamute Valley with a stock Xterra. The final creek crossing is getting sporty (just before Beowolf).

F&F was brittle and glassy this AM. All 3 pillars are in good shape and take reasonable gear. The 2nd was the most challenging today. The upper pillar is getting a brief window of sun right now between 1345-1430h. We rappelled the route on v-threads. There looks to be another few pitches of moderate ice above.

GBU is looking in reasonable conditions including the sporty central pillar. We passed 2 parties heading in to THOS.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures



Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rainbow Serpent Ice Climb

Climbed Rainbow Serpent today in the Ghost with my friend and fellow guide MB Board.

Temps hovered around –5c for most of the day and the winds were calm to light – making for very enjoyable ice climbing conditions.

 

The approach pitches to Aquarius were very wet, but thankfully short.  Aquarius is excellent shape offering good protection throughout and is completely dry.  Bring at least one short screw to protect the thin ice nearing the top of the second pitch.

 

Rainbow Serpent was excellent.  There has been at least a couple of parties up the route already, which made it easier to find good tool and ice screw placements.  The pillar at the bottom on the first pitch and the upper pillar on the second pitch has cracked horizontally across its width, but still seems to be standing strong.  Be aware though, it is still difficult to judge how strong these delicate features actually are.  We were lucky to have a photographer with us to get some great pics!

 

Driving conditions in the Ghost are as good as it gets right now.

 

Play safe,

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

MB Board – ACMG Ski and Apprentice Alpine Guide

 

Tim Banfield -www.timbanfield.com

[MCR] Mt Macpherson - Southern Monashee's (Revelstoke)

Today I tried to ski up Mt Macpherson from Revelstoke with a friend. There was 10cm of new snow in the parking lot when we arrived, and another 15cm by the time we returned. We managed to make use of a couple of old skin trails, but for the most part ski penetration was around 50cm, and up to 120cm in places, making for tough trail breaking. Below 1900m the snow pack was right side up with no inconsistencies or new wind effects, and minimal avalanche concerns apart from sluffing. Above 1900m the avalanche danger rapidly increased. We started to encounter low density wind pillows up to 140cm deep, and it was hollow underneath. By the time we reached 2100m there was a widespread inconsistency down 80cm, and we did not feel comfortable continuing. We observed a couple of natural loose snow avalanches to size 1, but no slab avalanches.

 

The skiing back down was great. Our biggest concern was sluff management, and trying to see where we were going with all the face shots.

 

Be careful out there, there is a lot of new snow and we were cautious with our terrain choices.

 

Alex Geary

ACMG Ski Guide & Apprentice Rock Guide

[MCR] Guiness Gully

Climbed Guiness Gully yesterday. The route is in excellent condition,
good ice, good screws, plenty of hooks and room for other lines if you
don't like hooks.

There are two trails leading up to the climb and one leading down from
the descent gully. The one leading down is the first you encounter as
you walk back towards Field from the parking lot (~25m from the
parking lot). The next one is a nice but somewhat bushwhacky trail up
through the woods (~75m). The third one, which is well marked with
flagging tape, leads directly into the runout of the gully but is
slippery; crampons recommended (~125m).

A good trail to the descent gully is pounded in -- about 50m above the
top pitch it traverses (climber's right) into the woods and down into
the gully, which is slippery and requires crampons and careful
downclimbing in spots.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
www.ontopmountaineering.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Snivelling Gully + Ice T (photo is Weeping Pillar)

Yesterday I climbed Snivelling Gully and Ice T on the upper weeping wall with Mike Stuart.   The 1st pitch was in its normal state, not fat, but relatively good ice.  The rest of the route except for the upper steep section, was less than desirable!  The whole middle part was open water which was covered with very thin ice that barely supported your weight.   

The approach ice to Ice T was not a straight forward grade 4.    The first pitch was quite thin and we had to work hard to get good screws in, however you could definitely use 13 to 16 cm screws, just had to place them on the bulges of ice, or else it was rock.    A 70m rope took you to a nice ledge.  The building of an anchor was hard due to the quality of the ice.   We built a 4 screw station.  That second pitch was 35 meters to a tree.   More slogging to Ice T.  The book mentioned about two long Pitches, we climbed it in one long 60 meter pitch.  There was some cleaning to do, but for most part the ice was quite good.   The gear was excellent for 80% of the time.  

I didn't take a photo of Ice T, but the photo attached is of the Weeping Pillar.

Marco Delesalle

 Mountain Guide

www.greatdividemountaineering.com

IMG_1137

 

[MCR] Kidd Falls

For those heading up to Kidd Falls, the trail we left yesterday
ascends the looker's left of the drainage.

To find it, turn left at the first Galatea Ck bridge (trail sign).
After the 2nd switchback the trail will start to drop. Go another 100m
or so and you'll find our trail going straight up into the trees. If
you come to another bridge you've gone too far (and if you come to a
Bridge Too Far you've gone way too far :)

Tom

--
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
Canmore, AB
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Borgeau Left - Rockies

Hey there,

Just back from a great day out guiding Ben up Borgeau Left. Overall the route's in great shape and worth heading up to do.

Good track in right to the base which was a nice way to start the day.

Although not overly obvious from the ground, once you get started you can feel the recent traffic in the first couple pitches. Good hooks if you look for them, made the climbing a bit easier for us.

From the base of the route you can get good quality (at least 16cm) screws where you want them, no need to bring the shorties up there right now.

The last pitch was awesome, and definitely the highlight of our day up there (crux). A steep chimney feature lined with mushroomed and chandeliered ice led to about 10m of steep, plastic goodness to top out. A beautiful pitch of climbing, probably pretty solid WI5.

The top half of the route, depending on your chosen line was a bit wet in places, but not to bad.

With respect to the overhead hazard, we were pretty careful to keep an eye on the winds aloft, or anything really, that could have adversely affected or increased the load on the windslabs overhead. Winds were light, occasionally gusting moderate and the sun was out for a bit but with no punch to it at all. No new snow while we were there.

Nothing for new/recent avalanche activity that we were able to see. A bit of sloughing from the steep terrain directly around the route. Nothing near big enough to be a problem for a climber though... just enough to fill my hood :)

Have fun out there!

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide

 

Cloud Nine Guides

Photos up at:

www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
or email:

mike@cloudnineguides. 

 

[MCR] Kidd Falls

I climbed Kidd Falls today. Surprisingly we had to break a trail in
there and there was little sign of recent traffic on the ice apart
from an Abalakov at the top.

The route is in excellent condition. The bottom pillar is steep and
sustained and the top short pitch is interesting with a brief sting in
the tail before the anchor.

Overall Kidd Falls is hard for the grade at the moment -- still early
season conditions -- but protects well on perfect ice.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
Canmore, AB
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.