Climbed Moonlight yesterday and found conditions to be a bit thin overall. The first 60 feet of the route didn't take any screws but thickened up above that and became more friendly. The ice was quite brittle up to the belay cave but was wet after that to the top.Snowlion looked very thin for the entire first pitch and 2 Low 4 Zero was basically ice free. Heavy trail breaking (80cms) to the base of the routes..took 2 hours.CheersMike StuartMountain GuideIMG_8006
Hi Folks,
We’ve started producing public avalanche forecasts but need any information from the field that you can provide. If you’ve been out please consider sending us a photo, video, or message at forecaster@avalanche.ca. Or you can call the forecasting office at 250-837-6405.
As many of you are aware, the Canadian Avalanche Centre has changed its name and logo. We are now Avalanche Canada, and the logo is below. What has not changed is our website address. We are still www.avalanche.ca. At this address you will find our forecasts as well as other products and services in a completely new format. Most importantly, you’ll see our improved interactive map, which is the centrepiece of the site. We’ve received some feedback that folks are having some trouble finding forecasts. A few points to keep in mind:
· If you are using Internet Explorer, you’ll need to upgrade to IE 11.
· The Avalanche Canada website works well with Safari, Firefox and Chrome browsers.
· If you use shortcuts or favourites you’ll need to delete your old ones, which led to pages on our old website, and create new ones that link to the new website.
· In the coming weeks and months we’ll be adding more data to the map and additional functionality in other areas of the site.
We are also rebuilding our mobile app. The first update has already been released. If you have our old app on your device, you will have already received (or will receive soon) an update notification that will allow you to upgrade to the new version. Further updates are in the works and will be released in the coming weeks. These updates will improve and increase the functionality and capacity of the public observation network (now called the Mountain Information Network). Soon you’ll be able to submit basic observations, share them with other users, and view them on a map. Future upgrades will allow detailed reports of avalanche, snowpack, and weather observations as well as incident reports. In addition to being able to do this on your mobile device, all these functions will also be available on the web using your computer and a compatible browse.
We hope you like the new website and app. If you have feedback, let me know.
Karl Klassen – Manager
Public Avalanche Warning Service
Today we skied in some of the limited options in Rogers Pass. One lap up Video Peak then Bruins Ridge and out 8812 Bowl. The skiing doesn’t really start until 2000m. Overcast with light snow all day. We found good skiing when the visibility let us, best on slopes that didn’t have any sun effect.
5-10cm overnight fell with minimal wind effect. This sits on a variety of surfaces. Sun Crust on steep Solar Aspects, and surface hoar and facets in protected areas. The snowpack depth at 2400m is around 80-95 cm. A rain crust down 30-40cm from Nov 9 is still solid and hard to poke a ski pole through. On numerous occasions moist snow is still observed below this crust. Previous solar activity over the past few days. No new avalanches observed today.
Marty Schaffer SG
Josh Smith SG
Joey Vosburgh ASG
Isaac Kamink ASG
Sam Ewing ASG
Troy Leahey ASG
Aaron Chance
Steve Zorn
Chris Rubens
Sean Cochrane
Marty Schaffer – ACMG Ski Guide
via
Peter Tucker
Executive Director
B: +1.403.949.3587
M: +1.403.689.4324
ed@acmg.ca | www.acmg.ca
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 21st, 2014This is the final ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the season. Kananaskis country, Banff and Glacier National parks are currently writing avalanche bulletins and Avalanche Canada will put out it's first bulletin of the season later today. Waterton and Jasper National parks are supposed to start bulletins next week.The good news is the Rockies ice and alpine climbing. People have been climbing lots of waterfalls and even the Wild Thing on Mt Chepren got climbed supposedly this week. There was also lots of ice climbing going on in the Columbia mountains. In the Rockies there just isn't much snow and below treeline avalanches are mainly only a concern in gullies. In the alpine there is enough snow for avalanches to occur and that mainly would be windslabs from the past few days. Skiing is possible but again, with body armor and someone else's skis:) In the Columbia Mountains people are skiing(hopefully gently). The visitor center at Rogers Pass opens for regular hours tomorrow and the permit system fires up next week. Reports are that skiing is "OK" in the high meadows but boulder fields could still be a nightmare. One hazard besides all the rocks, bushes, trees etc is a bunch of water ice in the gullies and creek beds from the cold weather. Big alpine features could be good with a gentle touch but first check the Glacier Park avalanche bulletin and the Avalanche Canada bulletin for the most complete snow pack information available at this early time. The early season snowpack may already have some layers that may or may not prove to be an issue as the snow really starts to fly. Keep watching the public bulletins and travel in the mountains with your eyes wide open! Have a great, safe winter and we will be back again with summaries in the spring. Larry Stanier ACMG Mountain Guide | |
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| These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. | |
The Urs Hole route on Cascade Mtn is in very good shape right now with some fun maneuvering around, over and under all the snow plugs of avalanche debris in the narrows from the last several years. Quite unique.
The left hand finish is in good shape with good protection. The right hand finish has some funky mushroom climbing to keep you entertained.
All anchors have recently been updated and a single 60m rope works well.
Little or no avy hazard on the route right now...until the next snowfall.
Conrad Janzen
ACMG Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com
HelloWe climbed the route on Sunday (November 16) and found it to be in very good shape for this time of the year. Most of the pitches were a bit wet so the ice was soft and generally provided one swing sticks throughout. There was about 10cms of snow in the gully and the walking in between the pitches was quite manageable. The last 20 feet on the final pitch required a delicate touch and a body length of rock climbing to reach the anchors.Overall the route is a steal for the grade in its present shape.Have fun!Mike StuartIFMGA/UIAGM Mountain GuideCanadian Alpine Guides
Just a heads up we have had our first avalanche involvement of the season in Kananaskis Country with an ice climber involved in a sz 1.5 below Chalice and the Blade in Ranger Creek in the Smith Dorrien valley. Spindrift from above the route triggered a small slab at the base that ran down and hit the climber as he was approaching the climb. The climber was in a gully feature approaching the route, and was fortunately able to remain standing and have the debris flow around his legs. The slab was up to 40cm thick, 25m wide and we believe that it failed on the November rain crust 10-15cm off the ground. For a photo go to www.facebook.com/kcpublicsafety
For ice climbs in avalanche terrain we strongly encourage people to be carrying avalanche safety gear and evaluate conditions as they approach the route. Approaches are fairly easy at this time with minimal snow cover at the lower elevations but in alpine terrain snow is starting to accumulate and we are seeing avalanches occurring in specific terrain features such as gullies and ridgelines.
Looks like the deep freeze is about to end….
Kananaskis Country Public Safety Program
twitter.com/KCPublicSafety
www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Nov 13, 2014Well if you hadn't noticed, fall is over. In the Rockies, cold temperatures down to -25C have flash frozen all the water around, and many ice climbs are in or forming fast, albeit they will be very "true" or hard for the grade.Snow cover ranges from 5-10cm at valley bottom, 40-60cm at treeline, and 60-100+cm in the alpine. People have been out "skiing" along Hwy 93 N and Kananaskis Country, but it is reported to be desperate at best except for the odd alpine gully feature that has enough snow to bury the jagged rock sharks below. Reports from the Wapta found good powder skiing on the glaciers, but snow bridges over crevasses are variable and hard to judge. People are wearing the rope and probing more often than not at this time of year. The interior has enough snow to be decently skiable above 1900m with 60-100cm, but in most places below that expect to encounter grim rodeo skiing or better yet, walking. A supportive near basal rain crust up to 2500m has been observed in many Interior areas, and reports are saying there is enough snow in steep, convex alpine areas to produce larger avalanches. There is certainly enough snow in alpine areas for avalanches in both regions, especially in steep, unsupported terrain where the odd wind slab might be hanging out. Its winter and that means using avalanche gear for both climbing and skiing where the conditions dictate. The forecast looks to be severe clear for the next week and beyond, which will be bad for skiing and great for climbing. Expect some local avalanche forecasts to start within the next week or so, and stay tuned to the MCR for local guides posting on current conditions. Steve Holeczi ACMG Mountain Guide | |
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| These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. | |
Hey Gang,
Since I am not the only crazy person out there these days - I figured I should post some observations.
I spent the last 2 days on the sunny side of Connaught Ck.(Ursus Minor, 8812 bowl, East slope of Bruins Pass) so these observations are related to this area only (not sure what is going on up the Asulkan).
Avalanches:
No new avalanches observed since the end of the storm - but near the end of this weekend's storm several largish slabs failed, indicating that structurally the snowpack has the potential for serious avalanches (8812 Pk. S aspect, Cheops W. Aspect, Mt. Smart N Aspect- too glacier ice). The places I figured this was most likely (and therefore avoided), was largish 35+ degree tensioned (convex shaped) slopes that had been stiffened/loaded by the recent NE winds.
Snowpack:
Valley bottom is absolutely desperate 15-20cms gradually increasing above 1900m. to 60-100cms - there is approximately 40cms of storm snow overlying the Nov.9th raincrust (which goes at least as high as 2500m) - below this crust the snowpack is still either wet or moist. The clear skies have also been accompanied by low humidity - this is Arctic air after all ;-) - so Surface hoar formation on the surface, has been limited for the most part, to 3mm spiky looking crystals (a little larger near water sources) - the upper 40cms of the snowpack, unless effected by winds, is loose and unconsolidated - the crust is totally supportive. In the Alpine there was significant redistribution of the snow form the NE winds at the end of the system - so not your typical wind direction (usually SW).
Trail Conditions:
Below 1900m. all bets are off - there is snow on the trail so you can skin from the parking lot - expect to encounter rocks and open creeks during your walk up the valley. On the way down it is totally sporty, and wearing a helmet and walking short sections will go a long way to reducing your risks - but trust me it is full on. If you like your skis I would not ski down this trail!
If you are trying to get up to Ursus Minor Bowl area via General Hospital - be prepared for some rather acrobatic ski touring and Alder bashing (having a hand saw and ski crampons would be handy!).
Ski Quality:
Okay just in case you think I am nuts to go out 2 days in a row - the ski quality above 2000m. is pretty darn good - snowpack gets even deeper above 2400m.
Outlook:
Not good! no snow and cold temps will not do this snowpack any favors! Keep in mind that the next time we receive a significant snowfall that things will change.
Cheers,
Scott Davis
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 6th, 2014Yukk. It is currently damp and mild over most of the Rockies and Columbia mountains and forecast to stay that way for the next day or two at least.Skiing will be really rugged/dangerous unless you can find somewhere with very smooth ground cover. And those would be the places where the snowpack is perhaps above threshold for avalanche release! I haven't seen any reliable observations yet of the current state of the mountain snowpack. We do know that it is generally thin and has probably been getting loaded in the past couple of days. All the usual early season hazards apply and the glaciers will have just enough snow to hide the crevasses-especially in bad light. People have been getting after some waterfall ice. The mild temperatures won't be helping much but with some careful choices it might be possible to have a decent safe day on the right piece of ice. Watch the daytime heat and running water, most features would be thin and have only been ice for a relatively short period of time. Snow levels will be coming down low tonight so scrambling will be greasy and even the valley bottom rock will be wet for a day or so at least. Drytooling(damptooling?)crags, fitness walks and the Banff Mountain Film festival are all possibilities. As are cheap flights to Vegas. Get cold and let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. Larry Stanier ACMG Mountain Guide | |
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| These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. | |
I spent the day guiding the ice climb "Totem and Taboo" in Totem Creek (drainage south of Murchison). Thin and wet early season conditions. I managed to scratch my way up three pitches and turned around part way up the fourth pitch where detached thin ice with water pouring over and behind it got the better of me. First (rotten) pitch was avoided by climbing a dry rock buttress on climbers right (30 m 4th class).
Apart from poor ice the main hazards were rockfall and falling ice - plenty of each in this NE facing zone until the sun wheeled around the corner at around 1 pm.
There is a trail on the N side of the creek. You can pick it up a few hundred meters from the highway just where the tracks from a giant earth mover peter out. Sparsely blazed but worth finding.
Tom Wolfe
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.sawback.com
Canmore, Alberta
