[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 30, 2015

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 30, 2015 Lots of wet weather over the last week left 10-30 cm of fresh snow above 2800 meters across all the mountain regions. This has since melted in most places, but north facing and shady areas above 3000 meters are still holding snow in places. Any of this lingering snow will probably melt over this weekend, as blue skies are forecast into next week with valley bottom high temperatures reaching above 30 degrees. Despite the fresh snow, the theme of the mountain conditions continues to be dry. Bare ice and rockfall are everywhere. Today I climbed Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos, and spent the whole day overlooking the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Rockfall was constant, all day starting from early morning and still going when we left; big, fast moving rocks. The place looks awful, and I think it’s fair to simply say “don’t go there”. That place is out. Conditions like this require creativity or changing plans. We had to do a complicated alternate start to reach our route today and avoid exposure to the B-S col, and the popular Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire is basically unreachable without doing a huge glacier loop around Pigeon Spire. Same story in the Rockies, and especially with the heat this weekend, stay away from the big ice faces and gully features. Stick to areas with no overhead hazard, and park the snow and ice objectives for another time. Lots of dry rock to climb, so take advantage of that. Have a great weekend. Grant Statham ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies, Lake O'Hara July 30th, 2015

Still some snow hanging in up high at 5pm around O'Hara. Nice day but somewhat cool with a NW breeze.

Hungabee looks way too snowy for now at least. Huber ledges are dry, Victoria should be good but frosty. Grassi ridge is dry. Lefroy looks terrible. Glacier peak is pretty dry and looks unpleasantly bony. Biddle is probably dry and climbable. Cathedral and Odaray are in good shape.

Somewhat surprisingly, I turned around at the bergschrund on Opabin pass today. There is a nasty little crevasse with a paper thin bridge in the center and scree over ice on the sides above where the crevasse is passable. Where it is passable, I just couldn't justify how long we would be exposed to falling rock while under Biddle or Opabin peak with a large, slow group in the midday heat . It would be scruffy but fine to ascend it on either side with cool conditions if you were good on your feet. I would probably choose to ascend or descend it just slightly skiers right of the little bluff 10m above the schrund. I would guess there is probably a nasty little schrund on the Tokkum glacier side now too but I haven't been there recently.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Mt Edith Cavell July 29, 2015

Taken at about 1400 hrs on July 29th, 2015

Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
cell 780 931 2521
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann.incentre.net
pamann@incentre.net
amannpeterr@gmail.com

[MCR] Lyells and Alexandra, July 26-28

Hello,

I spent the last few days on the Divide where we traversed the 5 Lyells on the 27th and climbed Mount Alexandra on the 28th.  

We observed up to 35cm of new snow above 2500m on the SE Lyell Glacier.  Crossing to Lyell 1 from the hut involved a lot of probing on the glacier and a breakable boot top crust.  We were able to bypass the enormous bergschrund in the Lyell 1-2 col by climbing up a snow filled couloir on climber's right which brought us to the summit ridge of #1.  Cool temps and a bit of wind above 3000m had settled the new snow and made for easy travel over #1, 2 and 3.  The schrund on Lyell 3 was easily crossed on a narrow snow bridge.  Despite thick clouds the sun began melting the new snow and several solar sluffs up to size 1.5 were observed in steep terrain.  The snow on the 5.4 rock pitch of #4 was melted out and the rock was mainly dry.  The snow bridges on the Lyell Glacier had softened significantly by mid afternoon on our descent from #5.

On the 28th we got bumped over to a good landing near the base of Alexandra Glacier in the headwaters of Lyell Creek, approx. 2300m.  A good overnight freeze provided easy travel on the mainly snow covered Alexandra Glacier up to the Whiterose/Alexandra Col.  Light rain below 3000m softened the snow on the lower SW slopes so we stayed on the rock ridge which was bare until we got above 3000m.  We were then able to avoid patches of verglass by staying on the new snow.  Evidence of solar sluffs up to size 1 were observed on steeper parts of the upper SW slopes.  A couple more cms of fresh snow accumulated over the day above 3000m.  Thick clouds kept things cool almost all day and no rockfall was observed.

Cheers,

Pierre

Pierre Hungr

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

http://www.rogerspassadventures.com

[MCR] Melville Group, Selkirks, July 18-24

Hello,

This is a bit delayed but may still be of interest to some.  I guided a trip to the Melville Group in the South Selkirks between July 18 and 24.  We camped at Houston Lake on the south side of the Moby Dick massif in a spot where previous camps have been based.  We climbed the South Glacier/Ridge of Moby Dick, the Direct South Ridge of Harpoon and the NW Ridge of Billy Budd.

The South Glacier of the Moby Dick massif has several access points, the easiest being directly below the summit of Moby Dick.  A lot of bare ice and open crevasses required at least two hours to navigate through.  Once on the South Ridge the ascent is much more straightforward with good scrambling on generally solid rock and firm footing on the upper snowpatch.  Ice screws, crampons and a snow picket all came in useful.  The South Glacier gives access to other fine looking lines along the massif but expect to spend a good deal of time getting through to the rock.

The Direct South Ridge of Harpoon is a three star route that has easy access from Houston Pass and great rock.  We bypassed Harpoon Peak itself and crossed over from the top of the South Ridge to the higher summit of Mount Proteus.  We encountered many soft snow bridges on the upper glacier leading to both Harpoon and Proteus and crampons were used on the steeper upper section of the glacier.

The NW Ridge of Billy Budd is less appealing due to rock quality.  We traversed across the very scrappy NW slopes to a transverse ridge that leads up to Vere Peak on the NW Ridge.  An old fixed line is set up on this traverse and is still useful as a handline.

As we were leaving, the snow from the first low pressure system was accumulating above 2800m.  This is a very worthwhile area to visit with high quality alpine climbing from a beautiful and well situated base camp.

Cheers,

Pierre

Pierre Hungr

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

http://www.rogerspassadventures.com

[MCR] Abbott Pass - Recent Snow & Conditions

Hey All,

Cloud Nine Guides has had a number of trips running over the past week with ascents in the Rogers Pass area including Tupper and Sir Donald (prior to the storm) as well as numerous multi-pitch rock routes in the Canmore area. Prior to the recent storm all were dry and in good shape. Finishing yesterday, a 3 day Abbott Pass Alpine program chose to descend early due to poor weather and heavy snowfall in the area. 

On the 25th, approaching the Abbott Pass hut, freezing levels were hanging around just below the hut elevation. At lake Oesa, rain was turning to heavy wet snow and real accumulation started about 100m below the hut.

On the 26th, an attempt was made on Victoria from the hut. Early in the day, snow was falling at a rate of about 2cm/hr and tapering as the day continued. The route in it's entirety was covered in anywhere from 10-40cm's, depending on terrain shape and wind transportation, loading was predictably heavier on leeward aspects, and in sheltered areas. 

Where the ridge had been blow clean, verglass was present on any exposed rock making the use of crampons necessary pretty much right from the hut.

Winds at ridge top were in the light to moderate range (up to ~30km/hr) for the duration of the storm.

Temperatures rose during the day on the 26th, triggering numerous loose, moist avalanches from the ridgecrest as our team descended back toward the hut early have abandoned the attempt after gaining the first summit and the ridgecrest proper. Most of these small avalanches would have had entrained enough mass to knock a climbing team of the route.

Might take a few days for things to dry out / calm down up there again - we've got another trip heading back up there tomorrow so we'll be sure to post an update on the conditions when the guide returns.

All the best,

Mike Trehearne 

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide - www.cloudnineguides.com

 

[MCR] The Watchtower Crag, Jasper National Park

Visitor Safety at Jasper National Park went into The Watchtower Climbing Area which was smack in the middle of the recent Excelsior Creek Fire on the Maligne Lake Road. The extent of the damage to the crag itself is actually pretty minimal. The entire approach, as well as all the trees and vegetation above the climbs has been burned. Amazingly, as you approach the makeshift bridge near the lower tier, the ground and tree vegetation is relatively unaffected albeit there is some new downed trees and small areas where burning ash fell from the canyon above. We climbed routes on the Upper Tier and Kiss the Sky Wall and found all the routes to be in need of a little brushing from the ash and dirt, but otherwise completely unaffected. Voodoo Lounge is almost entirely unaffected. Tightened one nut but just in the normal course of action and seem to have nothing to do with the fire. Did some bolt testing (aka whippers, aka fat kid on steep and overhanging rock) and didn't see any issues with the general condition of the bolts or rock. We couldn't get on all the routes but I would guess that this would be the case for the high majority of bolts. 

This area will not be without it's issues and didn't get away completely scar free. Finnito Land got burned right up to the wall and may require a bit more clean-up. All the trees and vegetation above the climbs and on the approach from the lake has been burned and presents a significant hazard for falling trees, rocks and debris. Keep your head up and wear a helmet. The areas most affected are the Upper and Lower Tiers, and the furthest routes on the downstream end of Kiss the Sky Wall and, Finnito land. All other areas are significantly overhanging and are generally well protected from above. The regeneration of this area is a remarkable and incredibly fascinating process and as climbers we need to respect this. There is one trail in and out of the area. It starts right from the outflow of the creek and works its way up the climbers left side (river right) of the creek. A handful of foot-prints and small tree blazes mark the way following generally the exact path of the original trail. Keep the trail braiding to the absolute minimum and consider carrying a brush saw in to help with the smaller burnt dead fall. This is a climbers trail and is not an official trail nor of any priority to Parks Canada trail crews. So if it ends up being a complete mess it's our fault, everyone needs to do your part! Paradise is not lost and the arguably best climbing in the Rockies is still well in tact!

Routes, new route information and pictures can be found on the Jasper Rock Climbing, TABVAR and Parks Mountain Safety Facebook Pages. 

Jasper Visitor Safety

Jasper National Park

Parks Canada         

[MCR] Access - Sir Donald/Asulkan

Hi All,

This message explains the present situation in the Illecillewaet/Asulkan valleys including Sir Donald, and the reasoning behind the bear restrictions in place.  Please take this into account when planning a trip into the area and note that there are no restrictions in place for the Hermit Basin including Mt Tupper, the Swiss Peak Traverse, and Mt Rogers.  

Thank you for your understanding.

Visitor Safety

Glacier National Park

Group of 4 Restriction in the Illecillewaet and Asulkan Valleys – July 23, 2015

Two (2) curious sub-adult grizzly bears, their mother and another sow with young cubs have been repeatedly observed in the Illecillewaet and Asulkan valleys trail system. The two sub-adults have spent the past 3 years in the area with their mother, frequently exposed to visitors using the trail system and have become very tolerant and inquisitive of people. They exclusively forage on what the wilderness provides, and are neither threatened by humans, nor do they demonstrate aggressive behaviour towards them.

As of summer 2015, the park human-wildlife conflict team has received multiple reports of sub-adult grizzlies following hikers (both groups and individuals), at times for up to 1 hour and as close as 10m. With the best and most remote grizzly habitat dominated by older and more aggressive grizzlies, it is normal for a sow and cubs, as well as sub-adults, to establish themselves in less ideal bear habitat. Riskier places that are closer to human infrastructure (i.e trails and campgrounds) are typically avoided by adult male grizzlies.  In order to keep these two sub-adults out of trouble with people and increase their chances of survival, humans need to provide help if the form of willingness to modify behaviour. These bears require an additional level of care from the staff at Glacier National Park, as well as understanding and compliance from the visiting public.

In response to this situation the Superintendent of Mount Revelstoke and Glacier national parks has enacted a mandatory restriction on the majority of trails in the Illecillewaet and Asulkan valleys. This restriction means that by law, visitors may access the trails only if they are in a group of four (4) or more adults (adult defined as ~12 years old), and remain within 3 metres of each other. Non-compliance is subject to a fine. This restriction is to protect both people and bears, as research has found that a grizzly bear is drastically less likely to approach people in tight groups of 4 adults or more.

We appreciate your help in respecting this closure and in protecting both visitor and bear safety.  

Trails where group of 4 applies in Glacier National Park	Trails where group of 4 does not apply in Glacier National Park
·        Great Glacier ·        Avalanche Crest ·        Asulkan Valley ·        Sir Donald ·        Glacier Crest ·        Perley Rock	·        Abbott Ridge ·        Marion Lake ·        1885 trail ·        Meeting of the Waters ·        Bostock Creek ·        Balu Pass ·        Hermit

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask myself or any of the Resource Conservation Human Wildlife Conflict Team.

Thanks for you attention

Glacier National Park

[MCR] Bugaboos

Just back from a weekend of stormy wet weather in the Bugaboos. As of 9am this morning there was up to 20cm of new snow above 2600m and forecast was for another 10cm today above 2800m.
Sun on the way but cool temperatures will keep the higher routes snowy for some time.

Lilla Molnar
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Apologies for any weird spelling. Sometimes my IPhone does it for me.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Adamants and Gothics July 19-26th BMC camp

Just returned from a week of mountaineering in the Adamants. From a
spectacular camp in the Adamant meadows below the toe of the Adamant
Glacier we climbed peaks in the Gothics from the south side. The
weather was challenging with rain or some showers on most days.

From a camp at 6350ft (1935m) access to the peaks in the Gothics
were attained via the glaciers on the south sides of Thor, Fria, and Wotan.
Azimuth Peak was easily attained via the Adamant Glacier with several
routes up either the N face or a small sub peak to the south, which
offered some good rock and connected to the main summit.

Of note was the lack of snow and the rapid change of some of the
standard access points. Azimuth notch was not descendible due to
hanging cornice, melt out and rock fall. An easier access to the
Adamant glacier requires continuing along the Azimuth ridge north
past a narrow section (fin of good granite) to gain a small glacier
that descends left and gains the lower glacier. This is most likely
the route skiers would use in the winter. The glacier leading to The
east col on Blackfriar or the south side of Mt Adamant is quite bare
and broken.

Access to the peaks of the Gothics is by a meadow above the toe of
the Adamant glacier,(shown as a lake on the map) and gaining a col
near the Toadstool. This route is reported to be somewhat scrappy and
loose due to the snow melt. Mt Fria was climbed by the West ridge
using the rapidly melting snow slopes on the pocket glacier under
Wotan. The ridge is generally 3rd to 4th class with some short
exposed sections. It is very lichen covered and is slippery when wet.

Mt Thor was climbed by the South ridge via some steep scree and
grassy slopes ending with a short pitch to gain the upper snow
slopes. The snow leads easily to the summit block, though as this may
melt out. The E ridge can be gained as well below the summit. A short
rappel was used at the toe of the snow to regain the steep grassy
area. (20 metres)

One party climbed Post Peak via the glacier on the west side of Thor,
gaining a steep col between Post and Gargoyle. The bergshrund on Post
Peak was rapidly melting adding some complexities in gaining the ridge.

Many of the routes that require snow access are becoming more
challenging due to the hot summer.

This is a spectacular area that is rarely visited. The views of Sir
Sanford from our camp were certainly amazing.

Here is a short video of the views from Azimuth Peak.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX3BzFZezks

Peter Amann
Kirsten Knetchel
Hamish Sanderson


Peter Amann
www.incentre.net/pamann/

[MCR] Bugaboo Photos

Here are a couple of photos to add to Mark Klassen's report.  We came down the upper Bugaboo Glacier and although most of the crevasses are still well bridged, the long crevasse near the top had only one narrow bridge left near the centre of the slope.  

I did not take the time to look but it is sometimes possible to bypass this crevasse by going directly against the rock on Pigeon Spire.

Marc Piché

ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Trail report for Rockwall, Kootenay N.P. for July 20 and 22, 23, 2015

Parks Canada has done a very nice job with installing several new bridges along the Rockwall Trail System in Kootenay National Park. Not only do the bridges serve their purpose, but they are also aesthetically quite pleasing to the eyes. Thanks for the hard work, Parks.

With the exception of the closed Numa Creek Trail (bridge out), the Rockwall Trail Network is generally in dry and good conditions. Here and there expect a few logs on the trails, especially though within a few km to Numa Creek Campsite ( on Numa Pass Trail) where numerous large trees are blocking the path. 

Also, at times the trails are overgrown with vegetation, but all else is well.

The landscape is breath-taking and not only because of it's relentless elevation change:-)

Happy Trails, Martina Wakeman

ACMG Hiking Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 23, 2015

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 23, 2015 Dry conditions persist in the Columbia and Rocky Mountains.Typically, glaciers are bare, crevasses are exposed and snow gullies have the appearance of black ice. Choices that minimize exposure to snowy and icy places are a good thing at the moment. Recent reports from the Bugaboos suggest that the Bugaboo Snowpatch Col is an unfriendly place with exposed ice and persistent rockfall. Route alternatives that avoid this access point have been utilized by guides working in the area for a couple of weeks already. However, the routes themselves are bare and snowfree, a good thing if you can get to them. The Rockies are also very dry with glacier tongues (and higher) showing bare blue ice. Berscrunds are wide and gaping on places like Mt Fay, Mt. Quadra and others around the Lake Louise group. Generally speaking common snow and ice routes are out of condition, or very close to it. Good alternatives are high alpine rock routes. The weather forecast looks quite unsettled for the weekend. So rock climbing venues will provide the best chance for success this weekend. Aaron Beardmore ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bugaboos

Just back from a quick trip to the Bugaboos where we climbed the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire.

The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col has seen a significant amount of rockfall, we saw a car-sized boulder tumble down it in the mid-afternoon. There were reports of natural and climber-generated rockfall even before sunrise. We elected to descend the Snowpatch rappels after our climb - but if you go there be prepared to climb out of the moat to get onto the glacier.

The glacier travel up the Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier and across the head of the Vowell still looked reasonable. 

All the rock routes are dry with no sign of last week's snowfall.

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff-Lake Louise, Canada

[MCR] Wapta Icefield: Bow Lake To Peyto Lake

Hi Everyone:
We did the three day traverse from Bow Lake to Peyto Lake this last weekend.
Like everywhere else, the glaciers are taking a beating this summer with
warm temps and lack of overnight refreezes. Up to 10cm of recent moist snow
made matters worse for glacier travel, disguising crevasses and reducing
bridging strength of what little residual snowpack is remaining above 2500
meters. One of our rope team members ended up falling in a crevasse on the
way to Mt. Rhonda (South) and thanks to a tight rope injuries were avoided
as crevasses there tend to be narrow and shallow. We aborted the ascent of
Mt. Rhonda and went to (non-glaciated) Mt. Thompson instead.

The descend to Peyto Lookout has certainly become a lot more adventurous and
time-consuming since the bridge was washed out 3 years ago. Crossing
Cauldron Creek was easily negotiated on a braided section at a spot that was
convenient for the further descent. We found "Jordy's Log" (one of the two
logs that used to form the bridge - now lodged close to the northern edge of
the drainage between two large rocks) but there are currently two
additional, at least knee deep and fast flowing braids of Peyto Creek that
need to be additionally crossed in order to reach the old hiking trail south
of the creek. We decided to continue the steep side hilling north of Peyto
Creek all the way to the shore of Peyto Lake. We then waded through about 10
braids of Peyto Creek in up to knee deep water (see image) in order to reach
the trail back up to Peyto Lake Lookout. Sandals or Croques come in handy.
Mind you, your feet are so numb from the cold water that you barely feel the
pointy rocks.......

Thanks to the good soul, who has put a good bit of work into the new trail
north of the creek! Sure would be nice to have the bridge back in place,
though!

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)
 
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
+1 403 678 2717 or 1-800-506-7177

[MCR] Rockies: Fay Icefield

Yesterday we did a guide training trip up the Perren Route to the Fay Icefield and then down the Schiesser Route, with some skills work on the glacier in between.

The glacier is in typical dry summer condition with snowplugs and weak bridges but passable.

The ice routes on Mt Fay north face are very dry: The Berle/Kallen is non-existant, the 'schrund below the Chouinard route is open and looks very difficult to negotiate, the Centre Ice Bulge is relatively clean ice but we couldn't get a good look at the 'schrund, the Roth/Kallen looks like it has melted away but maybe it was just ugly, dirty ice. 

Of the three possible starts to the west ridge the right hand looked dirty and melted, the centre had clean ice in the middle but a nasty dirt streak on the left side with rockfall debris below, and the left hand was relatively clean ice with a passable 'schrund. A party climbed the left hand but reported rockfall in that ice gully even with an early start. Toaster sized chunks on the Appliance Sizing Scale.

Mt Little north face was horrid looking with the upper ice face black, dirt encrusted ice with embedded rocks (photo attached). There was a steady stream of rockfall coming off it (coffee grinders, toasters and at least two microwaves).

The Perren Route was dry, the Schisser still had a few snow patches with rockfall in the descender's left gullies that stayed away from the route itself.

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff-Lake Louise, Canada

[MCR] Begbie Bluffs-Revelstoke-Temporary Parking Lot Closure-July 20th and 21st.

Begbie Bluffs Parking Area Closure

The Begbie Bluffs Parking area along highway 23 South will be closed to parking at 0600 Monday July 20th until 1800 July 21st.

The parking lot is being re-vamped and widened. The work is expected to be completed by the evening of Tuesday July 21st.
This project is being undertaken with assistance from the Ministry of Transportation, Recreational Sites and Trails BC, and the Revelstoke Climbers Coop.

Alternative parking is available at a the forest service road junction 200m to the south along hwy 23S.
A pull out is located to the south 25m along the forest service road that originates from this junction.
Please keep the road free as trucks will be hauling fill out of the gravel pit located further along the FSR.

Thank You for Your co-operation.

Revelstoke Climbers Coop


Darek Glowacki
ACMG - IFMGA Mountain Guide
Revelstoke, British Columbia, Canada


Darek Glowacki
ACMG - IFMGA Mountain Guide
PO Box 699
Revelstoke, British Columbia, Canada
VOE 2S0
cell 250 814 8586
Darek@mail2skier.com

[MCR] Coast, anniversary glacier

Spent the last five days mountaineering in the Joffre group. The air was smoke free. Travel on the anniversary and matier glaciers was fast with little crevasse concern on the regular climbers route.
Www.the mountain school.com

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 16, 2015

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 16, 2015 Despite the last few days of poor weather and fresh snow above 2700 meters, the overriding theme for the summer 2015 mountain conditions continues to be . . . dry, dry, dry. Over the last 24-hours, 5-10 cm of fresh snow has fallen above 2700 meters making for poor visibility and slippery rock. However, after one more day of poor weather on Friday, the sun returns along with daytime highs of 25 degrees. In most places, this new snow will melt away quickly and it looks to be another beautiful weekend to be outside. All recent mountain observations point to the continuing theme of dry mountains, with local consensus saying that it feels like mid-August out there. Great conditions for alpine rock climbs, especially ones that avoid rockfall areas or stick to ridges. Mt. Assiniboine north ridge and Mt. Sir Donald NW ridge are a good examples of excellent routes to climb when conditions are super dry. Snow and ice routes, on the other hand, are a different story. Most of the big ice faces are hard, blue ice from top to bottom and the majority of ice couloirs are streaked with black from rockfall and hard ice. Rocks are melting out that have never melted out before! Avoid these kind of places. If you really must climb snow and ice, then get up well above 3000 meters and expect crevasses to be thinly bridged. Alpine rock climbing conditions in the Bugaboos are excellent, and prior to todays new snow all routes were dry and good-to-go. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, often suspicious in dry conditions, remains mostly snow and easy travel, although that will likely change soon. Watch out for this place when its dry because its famous for natural and climber induced rockfall. Many of the local guides are adjusting their plans away from steep snow and ice climbs, and instead shooting for ridges, buttresses, and places where they feel protected from rockfall which is inevitable at times like this. And anyways, who wants to grind up thousands of feet of steep, hard, black ice? Yuk! If you have big snow and ice aspirations, maybe park them for another year and instead focus on the positives . . . like the dry rock! Be flexible, adapt to the conditions and have a great weekend in the sunshine. Grant Statham ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bugaboos July 16

The climbing scene in the Bugaboos over the past 4 days was quiet given the very unsettled weather. This morning's storm was the most intense in terms of precipitation amounts and electrical activity, and there was about 5cm of new snow above 2700m.  This snow will most likely melt rapidly but north facing and shadier routes could remain wet for a while.

The top 60m of the Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col at the "normal" exit point is down to ice, and rock fall is a real hazard now.  Getting onto the West Ridge of Pigeon there is about 50m of 20 degree bare ice and a large crevasse is open at the transition point from snow to ice.  The Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier has some bare ice and though still mostly snow covered, the bridges are thin and the travel around crevasses is tricky.

Of course the rock climbing in the Bugs is still as good as it gets, it's just slightly more challenging to get on it!

Lilla Molnar

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Bugaboo/Snowpatch

West Ridge of Pigeon

[MCR] Mt. Assiniboine North Ridge - Rockies, July 14, 2015

Parks Canada Visitor Safety climbed the North Ridge of Mt Assiniboine on July 14, 2015. Conditions were dry right to the summit. Some rime and verglass was present above the Red Band from overnight showers, but this melted off during the descent. No crampons were needed. The "Gmoser Highway" approach from Assiniboine Lodge has a couple steep snow patches to cross near the bottom but the rest is dry. An ice axe may be useful here. The Hind hut is clean and in great shape.

Following discussions with BC Parks and other stakeholders, this climb was undertaken to clean up the old rappel slings, aging fixed anchors and random pieces of gear scattered along the North Ridge. Two full backpacks of old nylon, rusted pitons, carabiners, rap rings and fixed nuts were removed leaving the route in clean condition (see photos). With some exceptions the gear removed was in poor condition. Four permanent chain anchors were installed where the majority of climbers rappel while descending the ridge. These anchors replaced large nests of old tat and rusted pitons. Significant cleaning was also done at these rappels sites to minimize rockfall in the future, although plenty of loose rock remains.

The locations of these anchors are shown in the attached photo. Each anchor is set up for a 25m rappel. The rappel anchor in the Red Band is located climbers left of the normal ascent gullies and a good trail and cairns lead down to this anchor. This location should help minimize exposure to rockfall from parties above, as well as necessitate the building of clean anchors on the ascent when using the right hand gullies. The upper three anchors are almost directly on the ridge and should be found easily. Parties climbing the route this summer should not expect to see any other old anchors or fixed protection on the ridge, and should be prepared to create their own anchors in all other locations as needed.
--
Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
Parks Mountain Safety

[MCR] Mount Robson Area

Over the past 8 days, the Berg Lake Ranger Station received 10mm of precipitation in the form of snow above 3000m.

Prior to the dusting of new snow the conditions were as follows:

North Face:

-Blue ice right up through the rock bands to Emperor Ridge.
-The glacier travel from the top of the "Dog Buttress" to the base of the face is looking challenging, and in recent years a few parties have turned around due to the nature of the tricky glacier travel.

Kain Route:

-The Kain Face is looking very icy.
-The Robson Cirque appears to have mid-August like conditions in terms of coverage, crevasses ect.

-The "Mouse Trap" looks as terrifying as ever!

South Side:

-The Schwarz Ledges (AKA The Black Ledges) are snow free.

Emperor Ridge:
-Appears to be snow free to where the angle tapers off and the "Gargoyle" features start.

Cool temperatures and clear skies could offer decent conditions.

Jesse Milner 

Mount Robson Backcountry Ranger

ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide 

CAA Level 2 Professional Member

[MCR] Emailing: DSC_3266

Just returned from a 3 day hiking trip at the Little Yoho Valley yesterday
evening. All trails are snow free including Kiwetinok Pass. Attached are two
photos of the President and MacArthur Glaciers showing the snowline about
1/2 way up each glacier. The good news is that there doesn't seem to be a
cornice or bergshrund in the President Col, which has often added
substantial difficulty to the President or Vice President in the past.

Enjoy the summer!

Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)
 
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
+1 403 678 2717 or 1-800-506-7177

[MCR] Edith Cavell - Jasper

I climbed East Ridge of Edith Cavell July 10.   The Ridge itself was in good  condition.  Crossed snow 3 times, but did not use crampons.   Going up to the col there is still lots of snow and we did observe some rock fall.   Heads up if you are heading up there.  Lots of water pouring down from the gully to the lookers left of the ridge.

Marco Delesalle

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

www.greatdividemountaineering.com

[MCR] Mt. Athabasca

Climbed Athab via the ramp route yesterday July 11th with Peter and Lacey. Excellent travel allowed us to move quickly along the climbers left side of the ramp and reduce our exposure time to the potential rockfall from the slopes above. Crevasses were well bridged and easy to cross but thinning by the day.

Had a peak down the AA Col route and it looked ugly.
With current mountain conditions and no overnight freezes I think all routes on this mountain are subject to increased rockfall hazard. James B called it - on our descent we witnessed rockfall originating just right of the Silverhorn route from a safe distance. Some pieces crossed our descent track.

boundary glacier

[MCR] Rockies-Mt Joffre-July 12th

Just back from Joffre. Pretty good conditions up onto the glacier but the fun stops at the base of the North face. The upper 1/2 of the North face is bare ice leading onto scree. Not pleasant looking and the exit from that ice to the scree above might be interesting. We climbed the lower snowy face and then went right onto the skyline which was easy but deeply chossy. Down the same way.That snowy lower face is melting fast and won't be snowy much longer unless things cool dramatically.

Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Boots

thanks to all for the beta on boots. Got it sorted.
Cheers,
Cliff.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies- Deltaform NW ridge

Hi,

 

Just climbed Deltaform via the NW ridge - from Wenkchemna Pass and over Neptuak. We found a good bivy site in the moraines near Wenkchemna pass, just a few minutes from the start of the ridge on Neptuak. This spot has a reliable water source and should last all season. This was the only good water source on the whole climb - do not count on finding any water higher on the route. The route itself is dry, and there were only a few snow patches around. The route is fairly well marked with fast travel between several steeper belayed pitches. On descent the rap sites were quite obvious. We beefed up some rappels and replaced some slings, but eventually ran out material. There are a lot of rappels. It would be a good idea to bring some anchor materials to replace some of the older rap slings. 

 

Also, the summit register needs to be replaced. If anyone goes there in the next while, it would be great to bring a new one up to Deltaform. Neptual needs one as well. You can contact the ACC for a new casing and booklet. Old registers, and any recent full ones, should be brought back to the Whyte museum in Banff for safe keeping and proper storage. At the Whyte, these mountain records are cared for and kept for future generations.      

 

Have fun out there,

Helen Sovdat

Mountain Guide

 

 

  

[MCR] Wapta and Columbia Icefields conditions

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Hi All:

 

I was at the Bow Hut July 7-10 and Columbia Icefields on the 11th. Snow line at the Wapta was about 2600m (give or take) and despite no freeze for quite some time travels quite well. Snow covered crevasses are quite spooky with rotten snow bridges.

 

The Columbia Icefields region is as dry as I have ever seen since my first trip there in 1975. I did not have a complete look but can offer the following: The Skyladder on Andromeda is now a rock route in the lower section and had nearly constant rockfall. The NW shoulder routes are not there at all.  I didn't have a look deeper in the basin.

 

We considered the normal ramp route on the north glacier of Mt Athabasca but bailed due to the melted out rocks and potential large rockfall from the looter's right side of the Silverhorn. The traverse across the ramp itself looked fine and was climbed today however we thought better of it.  Worthy to consider is the potential for large dramatic rock fall events from the terrain that was formerly ice covered but is now recently exposed. It is often unstable for quite some time and triggers like continued heat or sudden cold can cause surprisingly large, difficult to predict events.

 

The Silverhorn ridge is entirely free of snow and ice top to bottom.

 

The Hourglass Route is gone.

 

The regular North Face route is all ice and with the continued melt the gap in the ice to the upper gulley appears to be 15 to 20 m. Bring some rock gear if you head to that route. A rappel descent may have some merit.

 

The lower sections of the North Face Bypass looked unappealing and strewn with black streaks and rocks. The Scottish gulley in the upper section appears to be totally melted away from the view on Boundary Peak.

 

The NE ridge is bone dry.

 

Hope this is useful and play safe!

James Blench UIAGM/IFMGA

[MCR] Bear closures and group size restrictions, Illecillewaet drainage, Glacier National Park

Due to several grizzly bears in the area, including a pair of sub-adult bears that are not demonstrating fear of humans, the following area closure and group size restrictions have been implemented:

 

• There is a group of four restriction in place for the Illecillewaet Trail System. This restriction applies to the Avalanche Crest, Sir Donald and Perley Rock trails used to access alpine routes in the area including Mt Sir Donald. Parties accessing the area must be in a group of four or more adults, and the maximum distance between two individuals must not exceed 3 metres and should be less when sight or hearing is reduced by the physical surroundings.

• The Great Glacier Trail is closed.

• A Bear Warning is in place for the remaining trails accessible from the Illecillewaet trailhead.

 

For further information please refer to the Important Bulletins below:

Great Glacier Trail Closure

English: http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/scond/Cond_E.asp?oID=20692&oPark=100205

French: http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/scond/Cond_F.asp?oID=20692&oPark=100205

Illecillewaet Valley Trail Network

English: http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/scond/Cond_E.asp?oID=20693&oPark=100205

French: http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/scond/Cond_F.asp?oID=20693&oPark=100205

 

Map of Glacier National Park

http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/bc/glacier/visit/~/media/pn-np/bc/glacier/cartes-maps/GNP_map2400_3.ashx

 

Thank you for respecting these restrictions and closures which help to reduce the risk of bear-human encounters, protecting both bears and people.

 

Danyelle Magnan

Glacier National Park Visitor Safety

ACMG Ski Guide

[MCR] Jasper Park fire

A large wildfire is burning in the Maligne valley and as such that valley and the immediate area is closed.
For updates on the fire situation and trail reports and closures visit
 
http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ab/jasper/index.aspx
 
Cheers,
Steve Blagbrough
Jasper Visitor Safety
 

[MCR] Coast, sky pilot

Stadium glacier on approach to the scrambles route looks like bare glacier ice with some open crevasse on the usual approach to the ridge.

[MCR] Rockies Lake O'Hara July 8th, 2015

Fine day on Mt Huber NE face today. Huber ledges are dry and there was a good freeze on the glacier and the face. Average 0-50 cm snow on the NE face so the snow wont last long with these temps and the forecast. N face is basically bare ice.

Mt Victoria SE ridge looks mainly dry. Lefroy W face looks awful. Glacier via the Ringrose couloir start looks ok. Hungabee has been climbed and the face is getting dry so that afternoon rockfall should be calming down soon. Odaray SE ridge and Tarrant/Mprrison buttress look good. Cathedral is icy but very climbable.

As you have probably heard, conditions seem to be about 3 weeks ahead of schedule. Rockfalls from the edge of the retreating ice may have begun or be starting soon.

Enjoy the bits of snow while they last!
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide





_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Unnamed Peak, Lake Louise Group, BNP

Climbed the East Ridge of Unnamed in the Lake Louise Group today (July 7).

The ridge is dry and in good condition. If descending the ridge it would be a good idea to bring some cord/sling to replace weather-worn cord/sling on some of the more commonly used anchors.

We descended via the cirque and glacier between Unnamed and Pope's Peak. Without a good overnight freeze we found very soft snow that provided good plunge-stepping in some cases and post-holing in other cases. Crampons were not necessary today, but they will likely be mandatory within a couple of days for this descent as the snow is melting quickly and several shallow snowpack areas will likely turn to bare ice before too long.



Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Howse peak

July 3-6 I climbed the NW ridge of Howse Peak (left sky line). Here is couple photos of  Howse Peak and the West Face and the glacier, incase you were planning on climbing the NE ridge and descending the west face.   Still lots of snow which was producing rock fall in the afternoon.  That is why we chose the NW ridge.

Marco Delesalle

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

www.greatdividemountaineering.com

[MCR] Wapta Bow hut area July 2-5, 2015

A group of eager mountaineers spent 4 days climbing out of Bow hut
during the continued hot summer weather of early July.
There was no overnight freeze during this time, July 4th was the
coolest morning.

Having spent many of the July long weekends in this area over the
last 12 years, it is beyond any doubt that the 2015 season has the
least amount of snow on the glaciers that I have seen.
It would also seem that though the water levels are somewhat high,
they are much lower than would be expected for this time of year,
considering the recent.hot weather.

The toe of the glacier above Bow hut is mostly ice with a few patches
of snow on the right side that still allow snow travel to the "Onion
skin height of land".
You can still gain the left side of St Nicholas on snow, however this
area is getting shallow and will probably melt out in the next week
or so requiring a bit more zig zagging.

A party that climbed Mt. Olive on July 2nd reported the col on the
west side of Olive-St Nicholas is showing signs of open crevasses in
the flats along with shallow areas of snowpack.
There is an old large slab on the S face of Mt Collie, and the ramp
leading to the high col looks very broken up. (This is probably good
to note with the expected increased travel to this area with the hut going in)

Our group climbed Mt Olive and St Nicholas on July 3rd.
Of note was there is no cornice left on the summit of Mt Olive.

We climbed Mt Gordon on July 4th. We used a ramp that leads from the
high point of snow near the Onion skin, and follows a ramp that leads
towards Mt Gordon. Though this route is a bit longer than going
straight up and over to Mt Gordon, it has less crevasses and seems to
hold the snow well. A few sags on Mt Gordon were probed, but
solid, and cooler conditions gave good travel up and down.

The small tarn near the summit of Mt Gordon was very impressive. With
the warm temperatures (and whatever else is at work here) it has
formed in an almost perfect ellipse.

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide



Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
www.incentre.net/pamann/

[MCR] Bugaboos

Just back from 5 days in the Bugaboos. Excellent conditions on the glaciers and the climbs right now, although it felt more like early August than early July. The continued hot weather makes me wonder if the easy traveling up the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col and on the glaciers will last for much longer...

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Iceland Sailing and Ski Touring 2016