[MCR] Sir Donald Rappel Stations (# 11 & 12 reposition and replacement)

Hello Everyone,

Last posting unfortunately the photo wasn't attached - pardon me.

I hope everyone has been enjoying the fine weather up until now.

It was reported to us towards the end of this summer that the last Sir Donald descent rappel (# 12) was damaged as a result of a rockfall event that likely took place this spring.

Myself and Danyelle Magnan climbed up 1/3 of the NW Ridge route and then descended from station # 5, where the rap route leaves the ridge and descends the face.  Our aim was to assess the damage to station # 12 (the last one) and to possibly reposition the station to avoid exposing climbers to additional rockfall exposure as well as repeated damage to the stations themselves.  Upon arriving there it was evident that the station # 11 had sustained some damage as well.

There is a very big and obvious light coloured rock scar in the large left-facing corner system above these last two stations (approximately 150 meters above) with enormous precarious looking blocks that remain from that aforementioned rockfall event. Additionally, there are loads of very unstable and loose rocks strewn all about the ledges just below this station which adds additional rockfall potential when pulling the rope after the rappel.

We repositioned the stations approximately 40-45 meters to the climber's left or skier's right on the darker quartzite which mitigates the overhead hazards and will keep folks out of the pain funnel. They are both 25m raps. The route description remains the same. If you are familiar with the old stations, rather than traversing into the light coloured rock, continue to scramble/downclimb ~10m staying in the dark coloured (ie. not scarred) rock. Station # 11 is now ~ 40m to skiers right of the old location. The bottom of the 11th rappel puts you on another sloping ledge just above an big overhanging break which is visible below you from that station.  The final rap (Station # 12), takes you over an overhang and is a free-hanging rap for about 3-4 meters, then on to the lower angle slabs and finally to the scree/talus at the bottom
 
* Please note station # 12 needs an additional anchor bolt which will be installed early next week - for anyone going up there in the next few days, a .75 or 1 Camalot will back up that single bolt *


Play Safe,


Paddy Jerome
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@pc.gc.ca

[MCR] Sir Donald Rappel Stations (# 11 & 12 reposition and replacement)

Hello Everyone,

I hope everyone has been enjoying the fine weather up until now.

It was reported to us towards the end of this summer that the last Sir Donald descent rappel (# 12) was damaged as a result of a rockfall event that likely took place this spring.

Myself and Danyelle Magnan climbed up 1/3 of the NW Ridge route and then descended from station # 5, where the rap route leaves the ridge and descends the face.  Our aim was to assess the damage to station # 12 (the last one) and to possibly reposition the station to avoid exposing climbers to additional rockfall exposure as well as repeated damage to the stations themselves.  Upon arriving there it was evident that the station # 11 had sustained some damage as well.

There is a very big and obvious light coloured rock scar in the large left-facing corner system above these last two stations (approximately 150 meters above) with enormous precarious looking blocks that remain from that aforementioned rockfall event. Additionally, there are loads of very unstable and loose rocks strewn all about the ledges just below this station which adds additional rockfall potential when pulling the rope after the rappel.

We repositioned the stations approximately 40-45 meters to the climber's left or skier's right on the darker quartzite which mitigates the overhead hazards and will keep folks out of the pain funnel. They are both 25m raps. The route description remains the same. If you are familiar with the old stations, rather than traversing into the light coloured rock, continue to scramble/downclimb ~10m staying in the dark coloured (ie. not scarred) rock. Station # 11 is now ~ 40m to skiers right of the old location. The bottom of the 11th rappel puts you on another sloping ledge just above an big overhanging break which is visible below you from that station.  The final rap (Station # 12), takes you over an overhang and is a free-hanging rap for about 3-4 meters, then on to the lower angle slabs and finally to the scree/talus at the bottom
 
* Please note station # 12 needs an additional anchor bolt which will be installed early next week - for anyone going up there in the next few days, a .75 or 1 Camalot will back up that single bolt *


Play Safe,


Paddy Jerome
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@pc.gc.ca

Sir Donald raps- new 11-12 stn copy.jpg 371

[MCR] Joffre

Climbed the SE face of Joffre experiencing excellent neve snow and very dry rock. No rockfall at all observed despite summer like conditions. I recommend using the snow feature( looks like an angel) right of the climbers camp at 6600' as a way to reach the principal snow field on the E aspect of Joffre rather than the direct route through a boulder field and talus.
We ascended the tower immediately above the difficult step leading toward the summit ridge climbing above the col and traversing a ledge over the NE face couloir, which I believe is a better option than descending down and around from the col which looks like the direction many climbers are going.

Tim Pochay
IFMGA Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Bugaboos

Chris Miller (Mountain Guide) and I just spent several days with a group in the Bugaboos. 

It is still late summer conditions there. Warm afternoon temperatures allowed groups to climb on shaded routes such as Wildflowers and Sunshine. Tuesday's storm did not put any snow on the peaks.

Glacier travel is crevassed but basically no change from previous reports. Climbing to B-S col is still doable around a few crevasses and schrunds, and with some scrappiness just before the col on what looked like ice and gravel (we didn't go there). 

The hut was getting shut down when we left yesterday so the electricity will be off and there will be no running water. I think there will still be propane but not sure. The ACC is still taking bookings for the hut until the seasonal closure that starts November 1.

Mark Klassen

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 27th, 2012

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 27th, 2012 The fine fall fetter continues in the mountains. Reports from all over the Rockies and Columbia's show that tuesday's rain seems to have generally left an average of 5cm of snow above 3000m. Enough to mean you should carry crampons in the high alpine but below that it is mainly autumn perfection once again. There is enough snow to mask some crevasses and make glacier travel complex in some places. This is really not the season to be walking unroped on any snow covered ice! Shady alpine rock routes along all the divides will probably be snowed up but front range rock should be excellent except for the deepest darkest gullies. Put a handwarmer in your chalk bag and get after it. Alpine ice will be coming along nicely, just keep an eye on the sun as the air is still surprisingly warm at times. These warm periods combined with the sun could easily create some rockfall in the alpine ice world. The skinny fall snows have not really created "much" in the way of skiing. Some features have been skied but I would keep my brand new skis safely stowed away for now. Short and sweet just like the days. Bring your gloves,woolies and headlamp and an early start. The fine weather ain't gonna last forever but it sure has made up for the june monsoon. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Assiniboine

Just returned from a beautiful 3 day trip to Mt. Assiniboine. We approached via Settlers Road, BC which worked well. Travel conditions were excellent and we were able to reach the Hind Hut in our approach shoes. We summitted the peak yesterday via the North Ridge and found dry conditions the whole way. We did not carry ice axe or crampons.

Cheers,
Andrew
Andrew Wexler
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
andrew@globalalpine.com
www.globalalpine.com
403-707-8615
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] North Face of Stanley September 23

I guided the North Face of Stanley yesterday September 23.  Despite the warm temps we had excellent conditions on the glacier and on the face.  The crux of the day was negotiating the bergschrund.  The bridge had collapsed (I am not sure how long ago).  About the middle left side (climbers left) there was a way, however there was a small section of over hanging ice to get to a shelf and then a ramp that headed up and out of the schrund.  The shelf's snow was pretty soft and was difficult to get a good purchase with the tools.  I am glad I had a long 65 cm ax and a technical ice climbing tool!

Marco Delesalle

 Mountain Guide

www.greatdividemountaineering.com

IMG_1328

 

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Marco Delesalle
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com

1 403 609-5580
1 403 609-1074

[MCR] Mt. Aberdeen Photos - September 22

I have attached a couple photos of the north glacier on Mt. Aberdeen that I took on September 22.

 

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

www.PeakAlpine.com

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[MCR] Athabasca standard route

Not much change on the mountain from Mike's report of 16 September. Despite still being +3.5C in the parking lot at 5:20, we had a decent freeze and good travel. The windslab in the middle third of ascent still not problematic. Smoke haze reduced long range visibility significantly today.

Surprisingly quiet up there for such a stellar day as the season wanes.

Ken Bélanger, ASG
TopCog Adventures | Outdoor Guiding & Adventure Travel

[MCR] Mt Victoria SE Ridge and SW Face

Spent a beautiful day on the SE RIdge of Mt Victoria yesterday (Sept 19). The route was mostly dry and we only used crampons (during the ascent) on the Sickle.  We descended the SW face and the Huber Ledges. The North glacier was in excellent shape and provided good travel into the early afternoon. We lowered and downclimbed over the bergschrund without much ado. Another party ascended the standard NE Ridge on Mt Huber which looked to be in excellent shape.

Enjoy!

Andrew 

--

Andrew Wexler
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

403-707-8615

+33681060194

www.globalalpine.com

[MCR] Columbia Buttress, Revelstoke

Hello everybody

I have spent several hours on "The Last Tango", to repair all the damage done by a larger size rock-fall (reported on MCR last Sunday). I was amazed by the size of this rock-fall and how little damage it actually has done to the route, considering that it would have enough size to possibly completely destroy the route. I was mostly busy with brushing thick layers of dust from the rock, cleaning down gravel from ledges and out of the cracks and replacing 31 bolts .... and yes I also had fun sending large rocks over the 450 vertical metre wall. The route is now in top shape and definitely earns its "Three Stars" again.
For those of you who hoped to climb the route during the past weeks, I like to express my apology for that I was not able to find time to repair and clean the route earlier. I had too many guiding commitments. Anyway, looks the indian-summer keeps dominating the weather in BC. If you are still plan to climb a route on the Columbia Buttress (The Last Tango or Eternity) or one of the many multi pitch routes on the Victor Lake Wall then the conditions are on your side. All routes are in perfect shape.

For the Lats Tango you need 14 draws, 5 shoulder size slings (if climbing with single rope) and pro 0.3 to 3 inches.

Enjoy the amazing autumn.

Ruedi Beglinger
I.F.M.G.A / A.C.M.G Mountain Guide
Selkirk Mountain Experience
www.selkirkexperience.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 20, 2012

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 20, 2012 Wow! Has this been amazing fall or what! Best of all, the weather outlook has it continuing through the weekend, and only deteriorating for a day in the Columbia's to a low probability of showers starting Tuesday. This last week of sunshine on solar aspects has gone a long way towards melting back the previous snowfalls, though you should still expect to find snow and ice lingering on higher elevation shaded walls. There have also been several reports of isolated windslabs above 3000m. in the Rockies, something to consider if you are in steeper high consequence terrain, where a small release could carry you somewhere you weren't planning on going. Crevasses are generally still visible and easy to manage with proper rope application, though bergshrunds may still present a challenge in some locations, and extra caution is warranted on any bridges resulting from recent avalanche activity. The ever present risk of rockfall in the vertical world is not to be overlooked, especially in locations where afternoon heating is likely to dislodge rocks that were earlier frozen by cool overnight temps (such as Bugaboo snowpatch col). As they say, "Timing is everything"! One of the benefits of this time of year and the cool nights, is easy creek crossings – especially compared to what we were faced during the "June Monsoon". As well alpine ice conditions sound pretty good, with a mix of quality snow and ice out there for the taking. I am sure some locations would even offer those keen enough to carry their skis a long ways a few early season turns, but please ensure you do a thorough investigation during your roped ascent to ensure you won't have a nasty run in with a hidden crevasse! All in all is seems like a great weekend to take advantage of our extended summer – of course being fall in reality, means much shorter days and WAY longer nights. So choose your objectives appropriately and pack some warm clothes if there is a chance of an overnight should things go not quite as planned! Cheers, Scott Davis ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bugaboos/Purcells

I spent Sept 15-17th in the Bugaboos with a guest.
The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is in reasonable condition with hard snow to
just above the bergshrunds. Both bergshrunds are very open with a solid
bridge to travel between them. The upper col has melted down to ice and
has just enough hard snow to hold in the loose rock. The climbers right
side has completely melted out and this has some rockfall hazard with
rocks perched on hard, steep frozen scree. Most parties were using the
chain anchors on climbers left to descend from the upper section of the
col.
The Kain route on Bugaboo is in excellent shape. There was no need for
crampons and ice axe above the col. Pigeon Spire was still holding snow
and ice on the N side on the final summit block.
The ACC Kain hut is open for another week.

Enjoy the great weather!

Kirsten

Kirsten Knechtel
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Golden, BC
www.kirstenknechtel.com
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>_______________________________________________
>These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
>them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
>omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
>and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
>Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased
>safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in
>planning trips or making decisions in the field.
>See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
>See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name
>from this list.

[MCR] President Range, Little Yoho Valley

Conditions on the President were pretty much perfect a couple of days ago when we were there.  The snow line starts around 2600m and by 3000m is was about 35cms deep.  There were hard slab that ranged from about 15-25cms thick on North aspects..something to think about on steeper terrain.  The crevasses were easy to get around and the bergschrund was passed on the far right without difficulty.  The upper ridge was awkward walking in the rocks with 5-10cms of new snow.  You can ascend the ridge without too much difficulty without crampons on but you need them to climb the last 100m to the summit.

Everything else in the area looked perfect.

Of note there is a large and somewhat aggressive pack rat that is currently residing inside the Stanley Mitchell hut.  It has free roam over the hut at night and was keeping everyone up by stealing socks, toques, flip flops etc and adding it to its nest which was left of the fireplace.  Consider all of the pots, pans, cutlery etc to be in a very "unhygienic" state.  We washed everything before we used it....take lots of hand sanitizer.

This weather is amazing and the alpine is as good as it gets for most places....have fun!!

Mike Stuart

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide

CanadianAlpineGuides.com

T: @CdnAlpineGuides

[MCR] Tantalus Conditions

Last Thursday and Friday (Sept. 13+14) Ross Berg, Paul McSorley, Andre Ike and I were based out of the Haberl Hut in the Tantalus Range. Alpine conditions could not have been better with good overnight freezes, strong crevasse bridges and easy travel on supportive snow. However, the range is in late summer condition with lots of large open bergschrunds and crevasses. We did observe a notable coffee table size rock trundle down the north face of Serratus. With the cool nights lately and extended good weather forecast, it is a great time to get in the mountains on the coast if you can find a way around the holes. 

Photo shows where one group turned around on the North Face of Serratus. 

[MCR] Kokanee Glacier Summer Skiing

On Sept. 13, a couple days after a bit of new snow up high we took the skis for a walk to the Keyhole and skied the Kokanee Glacier down to Coffee Pass.

 

The new snow was up to 15cm in the sheltered drifts at the Keyhole, but settled snow on the glacier amounted to all of 4cm which was all we needed as the firn snow beneath was surprisingly smooth.

 

The new snow was not enough to hide crevasses so the more broken areas were still very visible.

 

The lower elevations on the glacier were more sparsely covered with bare ice showing through.  We brought ski crampons for the ascent but were able to squeak by without them by linking snow patches. 

 

Great skiing for mid Sept. but with the continued sun we've had since then I would not expect such good conditions now.  The next cold rain event could change that though.

 

More pics at www.facebook.com/mountainsense

 

 

Cheers,

Shaun King  ACMG / UIAGM Mountain Guide

Mountain Sense Guiding & Instruction

www.mountainsense.ca 

 

 

[MCR] Columbia Buttress, Revelstoke

Hello everybody

Last week I guided "The Last Tango" on the Columbia Buttress west of Revelstoke. I noticed that a larger size rock-fall went down the route and sheared off a large number of bolts and has bent approximately 20 other bolts. The route it self is in great shape, no damage on the actual rock has been observed. With this rock-fall damage the route has temporarily some larger run-outs. I am hoping to go back within the following two weeks to replace the damaged bolts. I will post a MCR as soon as I have done all repair work and the route is back in excellent shape. In the meantime interested climbers who want to climb the Columbia Buttress might want to consider the superb route "Eternity" (no rock-fall damage). The descent trail from the top of the Columbia Buttress back to the Trans Canada Highway (60 minutes) is in top shape and very easy to find. Details you can find on www.revelstokerockclimbing.com

Enjoy the amazing autumn climbing weather

Ruedi Beglinger
I.F.M.G.A / A.C.M.G Mountain Guide
www.selkirkexperience.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Mount Athabasca, North Face Bypass - Rockies

Hey there,

Quick update on conditions up on Mount Athabasca.

I guided two up the North Face Bypass yesterday. Overall the route was in good shape and gave us easy passage, minus a few snow squalls throughout the day. Crevasses the whole way up to the base of the North Face were easy to both see and get around.

On the approach to the base of the north face we ran into lots of small windslabs of varying hardness above 2800m. For the most part they just made track setting a little more work, no other issues.

Crossing the bergschrund was a little exciting as the bridge settled about 10cm's with me standing in the middle of it. There's a few choices of bridges to cross mostly created by recent storm snows sloughing off the North Face, worth remembering that these are likely to be quite weak right now before you hop onto them.

The face above that gains the North Ridge was snow almost top to bottom, except for the last 20m or so. If you're planning on using the rope on the face, pickets would be the ticket for protection for the first 110m above the bergschrund, offering solid vertical placements. T-Slots would be way too much work in the uber-hard snow, at least for me anyways! From 110m and up, the face will take ice screws right up to the first rock pitch on the summit ridge. The exposed rock on the pitches leading to the summit were dry and in good shape, interspersed with snow choked gullies that gave fun and easy to protect climbing.

We decided to descend the AA Col. From the col we descended on scree to just above the bergschrund, which was easy to cross on the very far skiers right side. Below that a few crevasses to jump but all easy enough to see coming.

Pretty fun day out all in all.

Hope you all had a great weekend! 

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide

Cloud Nine Guides

Trip Photos Up at:

www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
or email:

mike@cloudnineguides.com

 

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Andromeda, Eisenhower Tower, Aftenroe

On Sept 12th I guided an attempt on the AA Col route of Mt Andromeda. Winter in the morning and summer in the afternoon. Brewster's monster truck ice bus window washing pail was frozen one foot deep when we passed by it in the wee hours. The bergshrunds below the Earth Gullies and the normal AA Col slope (A route I like to call "Little Earth") all look challenging so we chose an easy crossing closer to Athabasca. Above was four ropelengths of good quality low end alpine ice and snow climbing to gain the col. We turned around at the Andromeda side of the col due to moderate to strong wind gusts and my Japanese client feeling the altitude.

Sept 13th, Indian Summer and we were the only party on Le Soulier on Tunnel Mountain.

Sept 14th, a beautiful day on Eisenhower Tower via the right hand variation suggested in the new, and long awaited, Banff Rock. There is indeed less fixed gear on this side, we found one piton. Some recent snow clinging to the Rockbound Lake side of Goat Plateau, but the Tower is bone dry.

Sept 15th, build it and they will come, we were at the lead end of five parties on Aftenroe, Guides Rock, Mt Cory (one party leaving the base as we walked away to total 6). There is a need for good quality bolted routes of intermediate difficulty.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Mulvey Basin, southern Selkirks

Hi all,

Fellow mountain guide Bob Sawyer and I were up on Gimli peak yesterday working on a new route. We enjoyed comfortable alpine temperatures, good views and dry rock.

Conditions on all south facing alpine rock routes in the Mulvey basin area are still very good at the moment. The little bit of fresh snow from early last week has melted off on all solar aspects. There is still some lingering new snow (<5cm) on sloping ground and ledges on true north aspects above 2300m.

As per usual, the south facing routes are the place to be at this time of year. The long range weather forecast is excellent and these conditions should persist into next week-end.

Cheers,

David Lussier
acmg-ifmga mountain guide
www.summitmountainguides.com

[MCR] Mt Cleveland, Glacier Park, MT

For those folks climbing in the southern Alberta region...

 

Climbed Mt Cleveland with Tim Haggarty yesterday via the NW Ridge to West Bowl Route and descended the South Ridge to Stoney Indian Pass via the goat ledges yesterday.  The recent snow has melted off and except for some verglass to watch for in the upper West Bowl the route is dry and in good shape (I would not want to traverse the goat ledges with any fresh precip).  Some recent bear sign on the South Ridge but nothing fresh...apparently the bears climb up to eat the moths that hatch near the summit.  A nice scrambling traverse of the highest peak in Glacier Park.

 

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 13, 2012

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 13, 2012 At the risk of sounding repetitious, conditions for the week ahead look to be again quite good for the Rocky Mountains. This past week had a couple big storms that left some snow up high, but the last few days of sun has helped clean a great deal of this below 3000m and on any solar aspects. The forecast ahead once again looks sunny with varying highs and decent freezes over night. Of course, the forecast isn't always right, but overall it looks pretty widespread. This means our alpine rock season has been extended and a lot of the classic routes are still good to go! Expect cold starts and warming temps during the day that could cause the usual hazard of rockfall and sticky snow. Expect new snow on the glaciers and accumulation above 3000m and on north faces. Shorter days are really the only downfall for this time of year and right now it feels like Colorado in Canmore! Enjoy our extended summer and tick a few more of those routes off your list. Sarah Hueniken ACMG Alpine Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] MCR, Victor Lake Wall in Revelstoke

Hello everybody

Today I guided Pan America on Victor Lake Wall in Revelstoke. A 15 pitch super clean and well protected climb in solid quartzite rock. 

Despite the heavy rain and snow down to 1700 metres elevation during the past days, the wall conditions have been absolutely excellent, no wet areas. The descent trail also was in top shape and try, easy to walk back down to the highway. Any climbing in the Revelstoke area is these days as good as it gets. Anybody interested about the climbs on Victor Lake Wall please visit www.revelstokerockclimbing.com

Enjoy the great autumn climbing. 

Ruedi Beglinger

I.F.M.G.A. / A.C.M.G. Mountain Guide

www.selkirkexperience.com

[MCR] Mt Robson, Kain Face

Hello Folks,

I have just returned from climbing Mt Robson via the Kain route with two gentlemen on Sat.the 8th. Conditions we're over all excellent at the time. The Labour day long weekend storm snow had almost completely settled out, although we woke to 5cm of new snow on Monday morning at the Extinguisher camp, approx 7800'. So It would be safe to assume with the continued snow fall through Monday evening that snow accumulations have reached the tipping point. The snow line had crept down to approx. 4000' by Tues. morning.

We avoided the mouse trap by using the ridge to the Resplendent/Robson col which is straight forward but exposed with 1 rappel or easy 5th class depending on which direction you are going. I have attached a couple of photo's of the mouse trap from Resplendent, it's falling apart!

All the best,

 

Jeff Bullock

Climbing, Skiing, Custom Mountain Adventures
IFMGA/ACMG Certified Mountain Guide

CAA Pro Member
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
www.alpineairadventures.com
403 614 1733

[MCR] September 9, Mt. Aberdeen, Rockies and Ice holes on the Athabasca

Greetings,

I guided two guests part way up Mt. Aberdeen before the forecast P.O.P of 30% became 100% in the form of driving sheets of rain and freezing winds. I had brought a second rope to lessen the number of rappels off the ice tongue and was glad of it!

Apart from that brutal weather, Aberdeen is in about as good condition as I have seen it. We took the upper approach trail in and this was a good choice since on the way back we were loath to go uphill and followed the drainage back. This has almost no more snow that usually speeds things up here. A bit of a tedious knee jarring affair currently but not too bad.

The lower serac that threatens the approach ice tongue seems smaller and less threatening than usual but do not be fooled. A big, big fellow is hanging there and though not teetering it will inevitably go at some point. One can gear up out of hazards way and adopt a lower traverse plenty far away before angling towards the ice tongue.

The initial couple of pitches are beautiful polished aqua colored ice with little in the way of imbedded rocks. The upper firn line is quite high with spongy snow to the bergschrund. There are some big crevasses to negotiate but they have excellent albeit exposed bridges of ice that are easily crossed. The schrund also has good bridges. The little serac that lives above the upper bergschrund on final approach to the Haddo/Aberdeen col is tamer than I have seen it in the past and seems to be rounding more and more on its left margin.

Surprisingly we did not get much snow accumulation, mainly rain and wet melting snow. We did 4 X 60 meter rappels down the ice tongue. Reading the Selected Alpine Climbs description, having done this classic several times,  I am reminded again how many routes described in this great book are downplayed. The approach is not that short, I do not agree that the climbing is 'not to technical' after all, when your using two ice axes and doing hanging belays, I'd say that's actually plenty technical eh? The descent actually involves several rappels on v-threads. Or one may venture down the Paradise Valley exit, which several experienced alpinist's have assured me is a long helish affair.

Happy trails,



Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide
Mountain Skills Academy Owner/Operator
 

[MCR] Selkirk/Monashee snow

Just to pass on that the Selkirk and Monashee Mountains have not been spared from the recent snowfall resulting from last night’s and today’s showers. The snowline visible from Revelstoke on the surrounding peaks was down to approx. 2100m., more than dusting and less than major dump (guessing 10-20cms) – enough to put any rock objectives out of shape for a bit.

 

Not anywhere near enough to get excited about skiing yet, though I am sure some peoples thoughts are drifting that way!

 

Looks like sunny weather in the next day or two may melt off more sunny aspects but likely to stay snowy on the North sides for a bit!

 

Cheers,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Athabasca

East face, A2 and Hilda Peak @ 10:15 am Sept 10th between flurries and showers

[MCR] Rockies, Temple

Right now

[MCR] Mount Fay, West Ridge - Rockies

Hey there,

Back yesterday from a few days guiding - up the West Ridge of Mount Fay via the Perren Route.

The Perren approach was in good shape, dry and gave easy travel. No residual snow from the last storm to worry about below 2700m. All the rock pitches were dry and easy going. Once on the glacier we found great travel with no more than boot top trail breaking all the way up to the peak. Snow bridges overlaying crevasses which had been well hidden on the way up were heavy and starting to sag on the way down making them easy to spot and avoid.

We didn't have to deal with any of the windslab issues reported as of last week - with the exception of the occasional pocket on shaded north aspects, what slab issues there were, were quickly settling and bonding well.

Climbing the ice face to access the West Ridge was straightforward. We were able to walk across a well bridged section of the bergschrund right in the middle of the face - easy going. The face above is down to ice the whole way and easy to protect if you've got screws with you. Once on the ridge the sun had dried out most of the route with the occasional patch of snow left over here and there, but on the whole the route was dry. 

No rockfall observed, but the north aspects of Fay were reasonably cold for us right into the later hours of the afternoon. Having said that, most of the north aspects on the mountain were still coated in snow. I'd expect when that melts off the rockfall will likely pick up a bit. Lot's of loose/wet snow sloughing off more solar aspects in the afternoon.

Having said all this, I'm just getting back today from a day of work in Lake Louise and the (cloud) ceiling was down to 1900m or so and hosing rain for most of the afternoon. If there's snow up high again, which seems likely, the above info might be a bit stale already. Hopefully it's still useful for a couple days. 

Hope you all had a great weekend!

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide

Cloud Nine Guides

Trip Photos Up at:

www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
or email:

mike@cloudnineguides.com

[MCR] Valhallas, Southern Selkirks

Hi all,

I guided an ascent of the south ridge on Gimli peak today Sept 8. Despite the perfect week-end weather, we were pleasantly surprised to have the route to ourselves.

Conditions are pretty ideal in the Valhallas at the moment, all the alpine rock routes on Gimli and around Mulvey basin are dry. Things may change in the next few days as an approaching cold front is forecast to move through the area.

A few notes; there is no running water anymore at the Gimli campsite. Also, the road is quite bumpy and has several steep rutted-out sections, a 4X4 vehicle is highly recommended.

Have a great week-end!

David Lussier
Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com

[MCR] Rockies: Willingdon

We climbed Willingdon by its west ridge yesterday (Sept 7). The peak seems to be gaining popularity with 6 ascents recorded in the summit register this year.

On approach the east side of Quartzite Col still has some winter snow patches but they are easily bypassed. All stream crossings were easy hop-overs. There is no snow on the climb itself but the traverse to Crown and Willingdon 3 still carries some snow.

An outstanding trip with exceptional scenery, a wilderness setting and perfect autumn weather.

Mark Klassen

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 6th, 2012

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 6th, 2012 Summer may be back in town for a couple more days. The short spell of autumn left variable amounts of snow in the alpine. It would be wise to expect that there will still be snow tomorrow (Friday) above 2600m on north aspects and above 3000m on south aspects. The weekend forecast is WARM so melting on steep terrain will likely be a big deal with rockfall and small wet slides being the biggest concern. There is now enough snow from recent storms to build some fragile new crevasse bridges on the glaciers and some small windslabs in the alpine. It has been a long time since we have had any avalanche hazard and it is certainly not widespread. However, if you went somewhere fat and white something nasty and scary shouldn't be a surprise. Any new cornices aren't likely to be large but they will be fresh and weak. This snow and a warm spell may make for some great alpine mixed climbing-eventually! Once things get cold again it might be "runnel world" but if the forecast is right it will be "slush and rockfall world" till at least monday. It will likely be a stunning weekend in the mountains. Get out there and enjoy it but be aware that almost any alpine project will simply take more time than it would have 2 weeks ago. Days are getting shorter so don't be making big plans without packing a headlamp, warm clothes and something to think about for 9 1/2 hrs of darkness:) Larry Stanier ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Hermit/Tupper areas re-opened

The superintendents closure of the Hermit/Tupper area is now rescinded, due
to a successful detonation mission today. All areas are open again.

Sylvia Forest, Mountain Guide
Specialist, Mountain Safety Programs
Mt. Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Robson North Face attempt

We made an old school attempt -carrying everything from the road, no helicopter- on the North Face of Mt Robson, Sept 1-5.

Sept 1st we hiked through the rain to the Whitehorn Camp, which was the only site we could get given the long weekend (It would have been better to have reserved a site at Emperor Falls in advance, or leave early enough to make it onto a bivy on Dog Buttress).

Sept 2nd we forded the Robson River directly across from the tip of the lateral moraine that contains Mist Lake and is the moraine that you need to walk along to get to Dog Buttress. The river is braided there and wasn't deeper than knee level (It should be noted that good bivy platforms exist soon after fording the river). Dog Buttress is a dog, miles of low level scrambling first crossing left of the main drainage, then back right. We camped on a small in situ platform at 3/4 height and got the crap blown out of us that night.

Sept 3rd we climbed to the top of the Dog, a few centimetres of new snow on the upper quarter. Increasing cloud and whiteout chased us off of the glacier and back to the top of the dog to camp. Easy level camping there. We encountered several fresh windslabs on the glacier. Finding a route through massive crevasses is complicated there now, much like the Mousetrap in the Kain Icefall was like in the late 80s and early 90s.

Sept 4th we cracked the riddle of the crevasse maze aiming to get into position camped below the North Face, or at the Helmet/Robson Col. A poor weather forecast heard on Environment Canada's repeating broadcast sent us packing all the way down the Dog to camp at it's base.

The weather man was right, we walked out through the rain yesterday.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Extended Closure of the Hermit-Tupper Area for Ordinance Disposal

Please note that the closure for ordinance disposal has been extended until
midnight on Thursday Sept. 6, due to poor weather today.


IMPORTANT NOTICE


Blasting operations are scheduled to take place on Mount Tupper in Glacier
National Park on Thursday September 6th, 2012. The purpose of these
operations is to safely remove, by detonation, unexploded military
ordinance that was fired as part of Parks Canada's Avalanche Control
Program.

The Hermit Trail, Hermit Campground and all climbing routes on Mt Tupper
will be closed to all activities Tuesday September 4th, Wednesday September
5th, and Thursday September 6th. The closed area has the same boundaries as
the Hermit and Tupper Winter Restricted Areas.

Access to other areas of the Park will not be affected, but visitors may
experience loud noise from the blasts.


For information please contact the Rogers Pass Discovery Centre or the
Parks Canada Administration Office (250-837-7500).
_______________________________________________________

AVIS IMPORTANT
_____________________________________________________

Des tirs de mines auront lieu sur le mont Tupper, dans le parc national des
Glaciers, le jeudi 6 septembre 2012. Ces travaux ont pour but d'assurer la
destruction sécuritaire de munitions non explosées utilisées dans le cadre
du Programme de prévention des avalanches de Parcs Canada.

Le sentier Hermit, le camping Hermit et l'ensemble des parcours d'escalade
du mont Tupper seront fermés à toute activité les mardi, mercredi, et jeudi
4, 5 et 6 septembre. Les limites de la zone fermée au public sont les mêmes
que celles des zones d'accès hivernal restreint Hermit et Tupper.

Les autres secteurs du parc demeurent ouverts, mais il se peut que les
visiteurs entendent des bruits forts provenant de l'explosion des
munitions.

Pour de plus amples renseignements, veuillez communiquer avec le centre de
découverte du Col-Rogers ou le bureau d'administration de Parcs Canada
(250-837-7500).


(Embedded image moved to file: pic29492.jpg)


Sylvia Forest, Mountain Guide
Specialist, Mountain Safety Programs
Mt. Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks

[MCR] Extension of Superintendent's Closure for Mt. Tupper

Please note that the Superintendent's Closure for ordinance disposal on Mt.
Tupper will be extended until Midnight on Thursday Sept. 6, due to
inclement weather today. See the updated notice, below.

IMPORTANT NOTICE


Blasting operations are scheduled to take place on Mount Tupper in Glacier
National Park on Thursday September 6th, 2012. The purpose of these
operations is to safely remove, by detonation, unexploded military
ordinance that was fired as part of Parks Canada's Avalanche Control
Program.

The Hermit Trail, Hermit Campground and all climbing routes on Mt Tupper
will be closed to all activities Tuesday September 4th, Wednesday September
5th, and Thursday September 6th. The closed area has the same boundaries as
the Hermit and Tupper Winter Restricted Areas.

Access to other areas of the Park will not be affected, but visitors may
experience loud noise from the blasts.


For information please contact the Rogers Pass Discovery Centre or the
Parks Canada Administration Office (250-837-7500).
_______________________________________________________

AVIS IMPORTANT
_____________________________________________________

Des tirs de mines auront lieu sur le mont Tupper, dans le parc national des
Glaciers, le jeudi 6 septembre 2012. Ces travaux ont pour but d'assurer la
destruction sécuritaire de munitions non explosées utilisées dans le cadre
du Programme de prévention des avalanches de Parcs Canada.

Le sentier Hermit, le camping Hermit et l'ensemble des parcours d'escalade
du mont Tupper seront fermés à toute activité les mardi, mercredi, et jeudi
4, 5 et 6 septembre. Les limites de la zone fermée au public sont les mêmes
que celles des zones d'accès hivernal restreint Hermit et Tupper.

Les autres secteurs du parc demeurent ouverts, mais il se peut que les
visiteurs entendent des bruits forts provenant de l'explosion des
munitions.

Pour de plus amples renseignements, veuillez communiquer avec le centre de
découverte du Col-Rogers ou le bureau d'administration de Parcs Canada
(250-837-7500).




Sylvia Forest, Mountain Guide
Specialist, Mountain Safety Programs
Mt. Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.