I guided the North Face of Stanley yesterday September 23. Despite the warm temps we had excellent conditions on the glacier and on the face. The crux of the day was negotiating the bergschrund. The bridge had collapsed (I am not sure how long ago). About the middle left side (climbers left) there was a way, however there was a small section of over hanging ice to get to a shelf and then a ramp that headed up and out of the schrund. The shelf's snow was pretty soft and was difficult to get a good purchase with the tools. I am glad I had a long 65 cm ax and a technical ice climbing tool!
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