[MCR] Parker Ridge Area

Great day in the Parker Ridge area yesterday.  Enjoyed blue skies in the AM
with calm conditions and great visibility.  A dusting of 3-5cm covered the
dramatic previous wind affect and seemed to make everything look smoother.
Temps ranged from -23C in the morning to a high of -14C just after noon.


 Climbed up Destiny Ridge to a beautifully calm summit and enjoyed tea on
the top.  Clouds were moving in by the time we started our descent and it
snowed lightly for the next 2 hours with minimal wind.  Ski quality was
decent on a supportive hard slab softened with 5-10cm in sheltered places.
The hardslab is very evident above treeline, and is a great improvement in
travel over a degrading midpack below treeline.  We used caution as we
transitioned into wind affected terrain.


 We noticed no new avalanches or signs of instability related to the
persistent hard slab.





Max Darrah


AG & ASG




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, Takakkaw Falls

I guided an attempt on Takakkaw Falls Jan 28, 29. We strapped our heavy packs to sleds and this worked well along the Yoho Valley Road on the wide track set by those with big skis touring up Mt Field. Once the wide skis left the road, just above the switch backs, we were left with a more classic skinny ski track and narrow track set and the sleds were plowing so we left them and strapped the big packs to our backs for the rest of the way into the Takakkaw Falls cook shelter. We spent the night in the cook shelter.

We were at the base of Takakkaw at dawn on the 29th. The climb is challenging this year due to problematic ice formations. We found lots of egg crust snow/ice curtains that crumpled on contact to reveal chambers of ice dreadlocks that I'd topple inwards to eventually find some good ice. The good ice was inevitably at the back, or on the sides, and I can't recall having done so many left hand, and back hand, screw placements in a long time. The crux bottleneck (our 3rd pitch) is serious grade 5, if not grade 5+, serious due to 5 metres of vertical chandelier ice above 10 metres of poor screws.

At 3 pm we were just over half way up and the ice had finally got good and it was time to rap down (I suspect the last pitch, which is steep, would also be a challenge). We got to the car at 10:30 pm.

If I had it to do again today I'd plan on three days instead of two.

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

Topping out the switchbacks on the 14 km ski in:

[MCR] Black Prince Den Site closure, Kananaskis Country

The following is an update that was provided by the Kananaskis District Conservation Officers to the Public Safety office regarding the Black Prince Closure.  Any questions, contact information for the conservation officers is provided below.

---

The Nov. 20, 2012 closure to protect the den site area for grizzly bear #94 and her three cubs  remains in place for the Black Prince area. A couple of changes have been made on this closure that all users should be aware of . The east boundary and north boundary have been slightly modified, mainly to allow easier access into some of the skiable areas(please see the attached map). The Black Prince Day Use area , interpretive trail area and “cone” remain closed and a ban on all dogs from entering the area  known as “Kenny’s Run”-north area of closure. This was put in place after two skiers with dogs off leash entered into the closure.

Please respect this closure and if you have any questions on the closure please call the Barrier Lake Visitor Centre at 403-673-3985 or the Conservation Officer desk at 403-591-6309.

 

Thanks

Kananaskis District Conservation Officer

---

 

Kananaskis Country, AB

http://twitter.com/KCPublicSafety

http://www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety

 

 

 

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[MCR] Kokanee Glacier Park

My friend and fellow guide Christian Jensen and I have spent the last week Jan 19-26 skiing with a group out of the Michel Trudeau cabin in Kokanee Glacier Park. In the early part of the week we were skiing on a wide variety of wind affected surfaces between 1850m and 2750m. The only powder skiing to be found was on sheltered east aspects at and below tree line. We found soft and hard windslabs at all elevations but none were reactive to skier traffic. We observed widespread surface hoar growing to tree line up to 5mm in size but expect to find much larger surface hoar at lower elevations where the valley cloud had been sitting during the early part of the week. The sunny days early in the week created a sun crust on all steep solar aspects. On the night of the 23rd we received 20cm of new snow with moderate winds form the southwest. Temperatures during the storm were steady around -1 and the new snow was found on the 24th and 25th to be bonding well to the previous surfaces. Natural avalanche activity with the new storm snow was limited to a few very steep unsupported pockets at ridge top. We skied only northerly aspects with the new snow and had no reaction to skiing steep unsupported terrain between 1850-2400m. By the time we left yesterday another 5cm of snow had fallen bringing the depth of new snow on the Jan 23rd interface to roughly 25cm. The old snow that was buried on the 23rd consists of windslab, sun crust, surface hoar, and weak facetted snow.  It is great to have powder skiing again but caution will be necessary in the near future as we are expecting that this layer will become reactive as the new snow begins to deepen and  settle on this weak interface.

Shawn West 
ACMG Ski Guide

Christian Jensen
Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Whistler/Blackcomb backcountry Jan 21-27

A group of TRU/ACMG ski guide candidates and instructors spent the past week travelling through the Whistler/Blackcomb backcountry.  Most of our time was spent in the alpine, and on ridges and glaciers accessed from the Blackcomb ski area.

 A few scattered weather systems near the end of the week brought up to 30cm of new snow with a return to more seasonal temperatures. This snowfall was accompanied by moderate to strong winds from the SW. 

 This new snow now overlies a variety of hard surfaces and an unusually facetted upper snowpack. This is all part of a much lower than average snowpack (250cm's as opposed to a normal 350-400cm's). Our main concern at the end of our week were isolated  wind slabs in the alpine that could potentialy avalanches  up to size 2. We were staying away from any areas that were steep, unsupported and looked like they had wind affect.  Even tough many of these wind slabs look like they would only be of a smaller nature, they would most likely run far on the hard bed surface and easily take a skier off a cliff or terrain trap if they were in the wrong area.   

Before the 30+/- cm's new snow fell, we found that most areas at or below  tree-line had a prominent surface hoar layer  (large feathery crystals that bond poorly to new snow). This layer was unreactive to skier traffic due to there not being much of a load yet, but it will be something to watch for as more snow falls. 

Another concern for us during this week were the open or sagging crevasses on many of the local glaciers. To us the glaciers looked as though it was mid to late December and not late Jan. With this below average snowpack many holes were still open and the ones that were covered did not look very trustworthy, especaialy due to the faceted (weak) nature of the snowpack. We played it safe around any visible crevasses and gave them much respect while passing by.  

The skiing drastically improved (it wouldn't take much!) throughout the week, but we still found travel below tree-line or on any wind exposed areas to be quite rugged. Staying in sheltered open locations proved to be the best for good ski quality. 

Play safe and have fun out there. TRU/ACMG Ski Guide training touring course,  candidates and instructors.  

 

Decker Gl

                               

Spearhead Gl, right side

                               

Spearhead Gl.   

[MCR] Rockies Ice - Waiparous/Johnson Creek January 27th, 2013

Climbed Marion and Caroline Falls today. Nice routes in an awesome setting. Currently mainly great climbing conditions. Some short, glassy sections that required some care. My guess is that these routes have not seen much traffic recently.
You would have to go look around that drainage for awhile to find a snowslope to trigger an avalanche on. Don't try.

In skinny gloves all day but it was starting to blow and get colder as we left.

Road is probably as good as it ever gets. We drove to where the road crosses Johnson creek and walked from there. Easy driving but in 4 Low for a long time in a 4x4 Tacoma with really good tires. Shovels and chains were not needed but provided great peace of mind. Below is the link to some great driving beta on Gravsports.

http://www.gravsports.com/ice%20pages%20folder/hydrophobia_beta.htm

Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, West Niles

I guided some ski touring in the West Niles area of Bow Peak today, Jan 27th. Lots of wind effect from treeline up with numerous boilerplate slab surfaces where it is hard to hold an edge in ascent, or not possible. The recent snow and lighter winds have created some dust on crust on said boilerplates and then good boot top powder in less wind affected features. We had a lot of good skiing but only ventured about 100 metres above treeline, the wind has had too much play above that level and the tracksetting was very difficult and the ski quality poor.

I had several settlements the size of my living room in shallow and steep transitional steps around treeline. The midpack would wumpff down into the rotted out basement, not a problem in deeper snowpack areas where the midpack is bridging and you don't get dropped into the basement.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Valley of the Birds - Ghost Wilderness

My guests and I enjoyed an excellent day of climbing in the Valley of the Birds today, Jan 26th.

We climbed Dead Bird and Yellow Bird.  Dead Bird was thin but protectable with mostly 13cms screws.  Yellow Bird upper and lower were in fantastic shape.

 

We walked to but did not climb The Seagull and The Eagle but both looked to be in good shape as well.

 

The ice shelf at the blue bridge on the drive in was frozen solid today so no tricky maneuvering to get around that section.  The rest of the driving was pretty casual for a stock 4x4 Toyota 4 runner.

 

Dead Bird

 

Yellow Bird Upper

 

The Eagle

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com

Banff

[MCR] Rockies, Saddle Pass

I guided some ski touring in the Saddle Pass area today. The snowpack became very variable at treeline with boiler plate windslabs and facetted pits sitting under 4-15 cm of new snow. We skied two of the slide paths that come off of Mt Fairview from treeline down to their choke outs (heavy timber). We had some good turns and exited the area via the Saddle Pass summer trail (the way we got up there).

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Snow Spider Mt Coast Range

We skied on the N face of Snow Spider yesterday. We saw evidence of 3 separate Na size 1.5-2 on South aspects near 2000m. They appeared to be radiation triggered with the recent snowfall of 25 cm failing on the Suncrust. Although small the propagation was very broad and they ran far, one went close to full path.

 

A Test Profile in a sheltered Treeline location on the North side at 2000m revealed well preserved Jan 04 Surface Hoar crystals up to 10mm in size down 60cm from the surface, and producing sudden planar shears in the low end of moderate Compression Test range.

 

Another profile at 2150m in an alpine bowl showed decomposing Surface Hoar crystal 3-5mm in size and producing sudden planar shears in the upper end of moderate range when we did Compression tests. We witnessed no cracking and had no ski test results. However this layer is definitely a concern in specific locations and could become reactive with increased load.

 

Additionally there was much whumping in the valley bottom on the newest Surface Hoar layer which I observed earlier in the week under Mt Joffre as large as 20mm and as high as 1600m. Play safe with additional snow accumulation.

Tim Pochay

MG

 

[MCR] Lillooet Ice

Rarely formed ice routes in good shape 2 km west of Lillooet above fish hatchery.

[MCR] Snow Spider Mt Coast Range

We skied on the N face of Snow Spider yesterday. We saw evidence of 3 seperate Na size 1.5-2 on S aspects near 2000m. They appeared to be radiation triggered with the recent Hst of 25 cm failing on the SC. Although small the propagation was very broad and they ran far, one went close to full path.
A TP in a sheltered TL location on the N side at 2000m revealed well preserved Jan 04 SH up to 10mm down 60cm and producing sudden planar shears in the low end of moderate range. Another profile at 2150m in an alpine bowl showed decomposing SH 3-5mm and producing SP shears in the upper end of moderate. We witnessed no cracking or had ski test results. However this layer is definitely a concern in specific locations and could light up with increased load. Additionally there was much whumping in the valley bottom on the newest SH layer which I observed earlier in the week under Mt Joffre as large as 20mm and as high as 1600m. Play safe with additional snow accumulation.
Tim Pochay
MG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Southern Purcells Kimberley

I have been touring for the past 4 days in the Meachen Creek area up the St Marys Valley.  In general with wind events from last week has absolutely hammered the whole valley.

Monday

Toured up a north facing avalanche path from Meachen creek main line up towards Mt Mayo.  The wind effect was widespread from 1500 m up to our high point of 2200 m.  Mostly wind hammered to hard slab that have settle out and bonding well.  Did not react to skiing.

Tuesday

Decided to ski and climb Snowcrest Mt (2800m)  Observed very similar conditions other than on south slopes there was a sun-crust up to 2 cm thick.  We left our skis at 2600 m and boot hiked to the top because the snow was so hard.  It would have been nice to have ski crampons and an ice axe.  Just barely able to kick steps in the firm snow.  Again no significant weakness in the snow pack observed.  

Wednesday

Malidine pass, Mt McKay east face was very good skiing.  Heavily faceted upper snowpack with large protected surface hoar growth up to 20mm.(January 23rd facet surface hoar layer)

Thursday

Malidine pass, Mt McKay east face.  Up to 20 cm of new snow on this January 23 layer,  which was sluffing very fast and far when it was overlying the facets and surface hoar.  Not much sluffing when the new snow was on wind hammered or sun-crust of the January 23 layer.

So we have up to 20 cm of new snow overlying the January 23rd layer which is mostly wind hammered or sun-crust on southerly aspects.  These areas are not as much of a concern and will make you feel that the bond of the new snow is not so bad.  But what is going to be a concern when we get more snow,  is if you can find these specific areas mostly on east slopes below 2300 m and especially near creeks where the January 23rd layer was well preserved.  Otherwise I had very little concern of any deeper layers in the snow pack. 

Good luck out there and play safe

Dan Madell

ACMG Ski Guide 

[MCR] This House of Sky, Rescue Practice

Just a heads up, Kananaskis Country Public Safety will be doing some rescue training on the top few pitches of “This House of the sky” in Don Getty Wildland Provincial Park on Friday January 25^th.  We will try to accommodate all parties on the route.

 

Thanks!

 

Mike Koppang

Public Safety Specialist

Kananaskis Country, AB

 

 

 

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[MCR] Rockies, Stanley Valley, Healy Pass area

My fellow guide, Adam Burrell, and I guided two ski tours over the last couple of days.

Saturday, Jan 19th, we toured into the Stanley Valley. The ski track into the valley has been set on the east side of the creek and not on the normal summer trail which is on the west side of the creek. The strong winds of last week have scoured and slabbed up the burned out forest there and the track setting is poor. A number of submerged trees that act like facette traps dropping you into a branchy basement. Travel is better once you gain the upper valley. We found the recent wind slab and the Jan 6th surface hoar layer (well preserved) in the pits we dug below the ice climb Nemisis. Numerous sudden planar shears on both of those layers with the wind slab down 15 cm and the Jan 6th down 25-30 cm. Compression tests from easy to hard, but mostly in the easy range and always sudden planar shears. Given that we chose to ski the shallowest slope between Nemisis and Suffer Machine (ice climbs). We got turns but they were far from stellar.

Sunday, Jan 20th, we skied towards Healy Pass then up a small peak east of Healy Pass. A much, much better snowpack in this area with good midpack strength and some decent and fun turns down the shallow slopes west of our peak.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Sullivan Falls Area, Waterton, January 18, 2013

 

A photo of Blue Rodeo and the upper half of Sullivan Falls viewed from the road today.

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
Visitor Safety Technician

Waterton Lakes National Park

[MCR] South Coast ~ Spearhead Range

My colleague Tim Pochay and I travelled around part of the Spearhead Traverse yesterday and found a variety of conditions from crust on steep solar aspects to polished windslab on high north-facing glaciers to loose, dry powder in sheltered terrain with a northerly bias.
 
Open crevasses still linger, in places, on all the glaciers. The winds were very strong from the south-west and south-east at ridgetop and were loading snow all day long onto high-elevation north-facing terrain. Modifying our route plan and bravely running away from the wind, we descended into the upper reaches of Fitzsimmons Creek and enjoyed some good skiing in the lower Curtain Glacier basin. Steep solar aspects had previously avalanched during the warming from January 15th. Steep south-facing alpine terrain had a teeth-chattering crust.....bring a chin-strap.
 
Some creeks are still open and running at the headwaters of the Fitz., and make for great opportunities to refill the water bottle. The west-facing terrain leading into Singing Pass made for good skiing, as well. The Singing Pass Trail is in reasonable condition but fast. There are a couple of creek-crossings much lower on the trail that aren't entirely filled-in, so best to approach them slowly so you don't get surprised.....
 
Wishing Everyone safe travels,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Ski Guide
 
 

[MCR] Bow Summit - Rockies

Hey there,

Worked two back to back day touring at Bow Summit, yesterday and the day before. 

Lot's of wind both days consistently in the moderate to strong range.

Lot's of variability in test results over the two days. The newly formed windslabs above TL in the area were pretty touchy where the Jan. 6th layer was a bit more pronounced. On most lee loaded features, results were still in the easy range in our tests on the layer. 

When I got there yesterday for the second day of work, I could see a portion of the triangular alpine face at the far north end of the area had avalanched sz. 2 overrunning the bench midway down the face and coming to within 50m or so of the treeline below. It had run sometime during the night. When we got the chance to ski up to the base for a look, the bed surface had almost completely reloaded, the crown was barely visible, and the debris below was continuing to fade away under the wind transported snow.

Heard a few whumpfs and had a bit of cracking around the skis as we transitioned to the more open features at and just above treeline. As the bulletin suggests, digging down and testing the interface below the new slabs would be a smart idea before exposing yourself to a feature or committing to a line.

Heads up out there.

Mike Trehearne

AG/ASG

Cloud Nine Guides

FB: 

www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides

T: @CloudNineGuides

Email: mike@cloudnineguides. 

 

[MCR] Louise Falls

Climbed Louise Falls today.  No one else there all day and the climb felt like it hadn't seen too much traffic recently.  There is one huge dagger suspended on climbers right, plus ample hangfire on both sides.  We entered the pillar on climbers left and it looked at first like you could climb a cone to the left of the pillar, but that didn't look like a good option up close.  I opted to take the front of the pillar and the first half sounded quite hollow and not attached to the cone to the left. The second half of the pillar provided better ice.

We opted to rap the route instead of the walk off.

And yes, the luge track back to the trail is also in good shape:)

 

Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.sarahhueniken.com

---

[MCR] Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park

Climbed Carlsberg today. Great climbing on excellent ice, quite solid
for the grade at the moment. See photo of 2nd pitch, attached.

Good secure footing for the most part on the exposed scrambling to the base.

High of -12 C, calm winds and sunshine in Field today. A beautiful day!

Quite a bit windier and warmer (-6 C at 3:00 pm) near Lake Louise,
strong winds from NW, and evidence of plenty of snow transport.

Tom

--
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
Canmore, AB

[MCR] Mons Icefield Area - Rockies - Jan. 13-15th

Brian Webster and myself spent the last 3 days ski touring out of the Mons hut at the head of Icefall brook in the central Rockies. We skied in the alpine on Division peak and Mons peak  between 2900 m and 2000 m. Here is what we found:

Weather: We had mostly clear skies with temps warming from -20 to -7 throughout the three days. It snowed 2-3 cm during the night of Sunday the 13th. Winds were calm on the 13th and 14th and picked up to moderate gusting to strong from the NW today. We observed a lot of snow being transported in the alpine today.

Avalanche Activity: Sometime before our arrival there had been a down-flow wind event that caused a natural avalanche cycle and created widespread wind effect in the lower alpine. Other than from this, we saw very little avalanche activity in the area and on our flight in along the divide from Lake Louise. We experienced one 'whumph' over the three days in a shallow snowpack area near some rocks.
Conditions changed this morning with the increased NW winds and we noticed several loose snow avalanches and slabs to size 2 in the Mons area and on our flight back along the Icefields parkway corridor.

Snowpack: Snow depths generally ranged from 2-3m, although we noticed some scouring to glacial ice on high elevation N facing glaciers . We dug several pits on the SW aspect of Division peak and noted moderate range compression test shears down 30cm at a storm snow interface and hard range compression test shears down 55cm (likely at the Jan. 6th interface).

Travel Conditions: Although there was extensive wind effect in the lower alpine, we were able to find good skiing on facetted powder between 2900 m and 2400 m in sheltered SW aspect bowls. Ski penetration ranged from 10-20 cm.

We skiied terrain to 40 degrees, but stuck to supported and/ or smaller slopes. On the 13th and 14th, we rated the avalanche danger as moderate, and today bumped it up to considerable due to the rapid wind loading. Our primary avalanche concern was triggering windslabs in unsupported terrain.

Beautiful area, and a well stocked and warm hut!

Ian Jackson
ACMG Aspirant Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] McMurdo Notes

Just out from McMurdo Hut in the Spillimacheen Range of the Purcells (Jan. 10 -14). Overnight lows to -25C following the last warm storm cycle tightened up the pack quickly.
Mid-thigh boot pen on arrival settled out to a consistent ski pen average of 25cms. S/ E aspects in the alpine sun offered perfect windless powder in mid-day temps around -10C.
Alpine HS 240cm +. The Jan 9th storm overloaded one big N-facing cornice 7,200', dropping blocks on steep fans below to trigger sz 2.5 mixed slab / loose snow avalanche.
The slab crown looking approx. 60 cms corresponded to compression tests (CTH 24) we found at the same altitude SP on decomposing old surface hoar 2mm. Rutschblock tests
(score 5) on S aspects at this altitude only showed weakness at the storm snow interface down 35cms.

The Spilli logging road is active and well-maintained to km 35 (limited parking area). Sled access road is bladed at least once a week. Hut and kitchen is well equipped for 5. 2 Coleman lamps
and propane cook stove require cartridges; 1 Coleman white gas lamp also. Suggest taking an axe, not much life left in the one there. Well-stocked woodpile. Vermin free 5 days.
Lots of midnight bunnies tho!!

Murray Toft
MG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Guiness gully

Did the first 2 pitches of Guinness gully today. Temps were -13, -14. Ice was great. Lots of low density snow and facets in the gully and on side walls. I would use caution in this area if the weather warms up and heavier snow falls.
I made a mistake on my last MCR re: Gibraltar wall. "I was soft and plasticky" I was but the Ice was as well.
Cheers, have fun out there.
Todd Craig, MG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, King Creek

I guided in King Creek today, Jan 14th. All the routes are in good shape. We climbed a second pitch to a tree on the first flow. The chain anchor at the top of the first pitch here is within 8 cms of disappearing into the ice (we belayed on ice about 5 metres above that chain anchor).

With the temps rising tomorrow and an inversion possible and clear skies I would keep a close eye on the avalanche paths that runout into the creek, especially the west facing ones on the way out later in the day. My guests and I carried avalanche beacons, probes and shovels for our trip in there today.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] South Coast Mountains, Overlord Glacier

I spent the weekend guiding in the Overlord Glacier area. We found good quality sking everywhere except ridge top locations, where lots of reverse scouring and loading was evident.

The snow cover over crevasses on the Overlord Glacier is considerably thinner this year than the past few years. Lots of holes in view. At the bottom of the glacier there is an average snow depth of 2m. Above 2050m the pack fattens beyond probe length. There is one new big open slot just below the high point of the Overlord Glacier, below the rock of Overlord Pk, and just under the main Spearhead Traverse line to take note of. Picture is attached.

 

Although we stuck to conservative ski lines on Fissile Mt some aggressive things where skied by other groups and no avalanches were triggered. We saw only one potentially new cornice related slide off the Overlord Ridge (2400m). It did not break a slab from the slope below.  One recent cornice failure off the N aspect moraine at 1750 barley propagated a slab.  

 

Dave Sarkany

DSK Guiding

 

 

ACMG Ski Guide

SKGABC Level 3 Sea Kayak Guide

 

604.938.4056

dsarkany@telus.net

 

[MCR] recent forecaster blog posts

The forecasters at the CAC have posted several very good blogs in the last few days. Significant change is coming to many regions in the next day or two—these posts are worth reading.

 

http://forecasters-blog.avalanche.ca/

 

Karl Klassen – Manager

Public Avalanche Warning Service

Canadian Avalanche Centre

kklassen@avalanche.ca

 

[MCR] Rockies, Wedge Smears

Too many cars at the King Creek trailhead this morning so my two clients and I backtracked to Wedge Smears. There is a good, albeit slightly circuitous, trail leading to the climb. The left side of the area is good and blue, the steeper right side is a bit beat out and skeletal, usually more ice volume there.

Westerly winds blowing a plum off of the summit ridgeline of Mt Kidd all afternoon.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Gibralter wall

Spent a warm and sunny day on Gibraltar wall yesterday. No one else their, temp -5 to -10. We made it in with a Mazada 3 but I would recommend something with a little more clearense. I was soft and plasticy.
Cheers
Todd Craig, MG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Evan Thomas Creek Ice Routes & Skiing on Narao Shoulder

Hey there,

Guided Moonlight, Snowline and 2Low4Zero yesterday in Evan Thomas Creek (minus the last WI2 pitch), and spent the day doing laps on the ski of Narao shoulder.

The cold temps up the Evan Thomas yesterday created lots of tension in the ice on all three routes. Lot's of settlements, and shooting cracks crossing the ice features as well as one that shot clean out and across the hang fire near the top between Moonlight and Snowline as I pulled up and past. No release unfortunately (we were in a good spot to watch them go), so their still up there in wait for the next party. Lot's of sloughing as well as the temps warmed slightly throughout the day, dragging the occasional rock down in them as the recent storm snow slid down over the routes.

We skied a couple laps on Narao shoulder today which were both really good. Ski quality was fantastic below treeline with low density non wind effected snow most everywhere we got to. We ran into the Jan 6 Surface Hoar/Facet layer in some of the more open features around 2150m. Ski cuts were becoming more reactive and the wumphfing and cracking more consistent as we moved up to 2200m , we pulled the skins and skied a couple laps on few different lines from there. Stability tests on the layer Janurary 6th layer were giving sudden, easy results in those same open treeline features where the soft slab became present.

Fun skiing up there right now, have a great day tomorrow!

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide 

Cloud Nine Guides

www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides

T: @CloudNineGuides

Email: mike@cloudnineguides. 

[MCR] Tributary Creek, Selkirk Mountains

Spent the day touring up and skiing down the Tributary Creek drainage
near New Denver. The air temperature remained cool (around -10) despite
the appearance of the sun in the late morning, early afternoon. The
entire drainage faces north-east. The snow coverage was good but a bit
thin lower down. It was about 1m at 1100m elevation and just under 2m
at our high point of 2100m.

There was evidence of recent natural avalanche activity during or just
after the last storm. The slides were on north facing slopes and with
crowns up to 60cm deep and 50-100m wide. They didn't appear to run very
far, or the debris was covered by new snow. I suspect one slide (60cm
crown) failed on the January 4 surface hoar/crust layer just after the
storm. I was able to find this layer in hand shears down 40cm at 1200m
and in a pit down 60cm at 2100m. The hand shears were hard but planar.
Compression test results in the pit were in the easy to moderate range
and also planar.

After seeing these results, I chose conservative lines back down,
staying out of the open bowls higher up. I followed the creek back down
but had to force the terrain from time to time to stay out of the main
part of the creek - it's open with running water in several places below
1800m. We still managed to enjoy many powder turns.

Even though the avalanche bulletins are showing the hazard reducing over
the next few days, I think I'd still be playing carefully until the
early January layer has settled down.

Craig Hollinger,

ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Commonwealth Creek, Kananaskis Country

Spent the day skiing on the south facing slopes above Commonwealth
Creek. Excellent skiing on low density snow from yesterday's storm
(20+ cm, low density fluff) that has so far seen little wind.

Our primary concern was a storm slab/wind slab that we found hidden
underneath this layer. This is the storm snow from the previous cycle
(Jan 6) which sits on the holiday facets (down 40+ cm).

Most of the main supported chutes (N facing) above Tryst have been
skied either yesterday or today. No signs of skier triggered avalanche
activity, but then nobody is venturing over the bigger loaded rolls,
out of fear for the facet interface no doubt.

On the other side of the ridge (S facing), ski cutting produced no
results on small steep south-facing treeline rolls today, which kind
of surprised me since the snowpack felt a bit punchy and weird in
spots. No whoompfing or cracking observed. The snowpack higher on the
ridge was very shallow, with 20+ cm of snow sitting on a hard
melt-freeze crust (10-20 cm) sitting on top of rock.

Lots of evidence of smaller recent activity that has been partly or
mostly filled in by the end of the storm yesterday. The path in the
attached photo (S facing) had what looked to be at least a size 2.5
come out of the steep gullies on the E and SE aspect of The Fist,
likely early yesterday or previously.

Cold today, ranging from -23 to -18, but calm and nice in the sun.

Tom

--
Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
Canmore, AB

[MCR] Avalanche Control Kananaskis Country

Please be advised that Kananskis Country Public Safety will be conducting Avalanche Control on Friday Jan 11^th on the East end of Mt Rundle and on Mt Buller. 

 

Canmore hill will be closed from 11:15-15:15.  Closure times may vary depending upon weather and clean-up times.

 

The closures on the Buller Corner area will only be short temporary closures.

 

Thanks for your understanding!

 

Public Safety Program

Kananaskis Country, AB

http://twitter.com/KCPublicSafety

http://www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety

 

 

 

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[MCR] Cayoosh Creek ~ Intercoastal Range

Hoping this finds Everyone keeping well and having a good start to the new year.
 
Just a quick report of some direct low-elevation (below tree-line) observations, while travelling at the mouth of Cayoosh Creek today, in the Duffey Lake area:
 
Went to have a look at the state of the recently-buried January 4th 'Surface-Hoar' layer. Moved through a low-angle gladed cutblock just to stretch the legs a little, but didn't do any skiing. This layer of fragile crystals is buried approximately 35cm from the surface and the snow above it has already begun to settle into a soft-slab at the 4000'-4500' (1220-1372m) elevation. The surface-hoar was approximately 20mm in size, feathery, well preserved, and sensitive. It was easy to cut small features, or remotely-trigger them, and watch the cracks shoot off or hear the numerous 'whumpf' sounds of the surface-hoar collapsing underneath.
 
Small, no-consequence gully-features were especially sensitive. The current depth of the layer and the softer snow above makes it much easier to skier-trigger, and the forecasted cool temperatures over the next few days will keep this layer from wanting to 'settle-out'. Feels like the January 4th Surface-Hoar will linger, and be problematic for us, for a little while, yet. Please be cautious about, in particular, tree-line and below tree-line terrain for now. Layers like these can propagate fractures widely, inducing whole slopes to failure, and can even release on relatively low-angle terrain.
 
Times like these may necessitate re-evaluating the usual type of terrain that we like to ski, in these Ranges, until the trend and good, additional information helps change things more favorably.
 
Safe travels and best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Ski Guide
 
 
 
 
 

[MCR] Kemosabe ice climb

Hello,

 

My guest and I climbed 'Kemosabe' in the North Ghost yesterday Jan 8th.

 

There was very little snow in this area making for good travel to and from the climb.

The top of the first pitch looked to be almost melted out from the ground, but actually protected and climbed well.  The second pitch was a long and sustained pitch of WI4+ with aerated and lacy ice.  I had to dig for good screw placements.  Don't go expecting grade 4 ice as the guidebook states.

 

No other notable events.

 

This was my first time on the route and it is now one of may favourite ghost climbs.  Very cool setting and fantastic climbing.

 

It is currently snowing in Banff and 15cms has fallen in town overnight as of 1100am this morning.

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
www.facebook.com/RockiesIce

First Pitch

 

 

[MCR] Date correction for avalanche control on HW93

Please be advised that Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control
along HW93 (Icefields Parkway) on Jan 10 and Jan 11 between Saskatchewan
Crossing and Parker Ridge. Traffic will be subject to spot closures on
THURSDAY Jan 10, but skiing and climbing will still be allowed.

On FRIDAY Jan 11 the control work will be aimed at the high targets on Mt
Wilson, Mt Cirrus, and other peaks in the area. The area between
Saskatchewan Crossing and the Parker Summer Trail will be closed between
approximately 11 AM and 4 PM. This area will also be closed to climbing
and skiing on Friday, January 11.

Please contact Jasper Dispatch at 780-852-6155 if you require more
information.

Thank you for your cooperation.



Parks Canada Visitor Safety



_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Avalanche Control on Icefields Parkway - Jan 10&11

Please be advised that Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control
along HW93 (Icefields Parkway) on Jan 10 and Jan 11 between Saskatchewan
Crossing and Parker Ridge. Traffic will be subject to spot closures on
Friday Jan 10, but skiing and climbing will still be allowed.

On Saturday Jan 11 the control work will be aimed at the high targets on Mt
Wilson, Mt Cirrus, and other peaks in the area. The area between
Saskatchewan Crossing and the Parker Summer Trail will be closed between
approximately 11 AM and 4 PM. This area will also be closed to climbing
and skiing on Friday, January 11.

Please contact Jasper Dispatch at 780-852-6155 if you require more
information.

Thank you for your cooperation.



Parks Canada Visitor Safety




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Ghost River, The Sorcerer

Hello Everyone,

I climbed the Sorcerer yesterday and found it to be in great shape. There was some cold air embedded at the bottom of the cirque which made the first pitch quite brittle. The upper pitch's are as good as they get with no wet ice and secure climbing. The approach trail from the N ghost is easy going through a shallow sugary snow pack. 

The road in remains over all in great condition with one area of concern, the first bridge after leaving the forestry road the river has breached the banks and the ice has opened up leaving a fairly deep and abrupt water crossing. I recommend a mid to high clearance vehicle to safely negotiate this but it may refreeze with cooler temps forecasted?

Have fun out there!

 

Jeff Bullock
Climbing, Skiing, Custom Mountain Adventures
IFMGA/ACMG Certified Mountain Guide

CAA Pro Member
www.alpineairadventures.com

[MCR] Tryst Lake Kananaskis

 Skied at Tryst Lake today. We were the first ones in there since the newest snowfall report of up to 25cm.

Weather: We had a sunny day with temperatures reaching -8 at tree line at noon, it felt warmer at the vehicle.  Light winds today.  Evidence of moderate snow redistribution due to wind during or after the snowfall.

Avalanche Activity: Only one chute (the one closest to the fist) had evidence of a small sluff that ran from the start zone about 15 meters down. Otherwise nothing else has moved yet.

Travel Conditions: The existing uptrack was still visible with only about 15cm on it in most places and otherwise fully covered in exposed areas. The chutes themselves are loaded at their top and large drifts exist at various entrances. We skied the tree run off to the side of the chutes and did not venture into the chutes. Previous ski tracks were well covered and could only partially be felt underfoot. Ski quality was excellent with up to knee deep fluffy powder.

Enjoy with care, especially if the forecasted 20 to 40cm comes in tonight!

Olivia Sofer

ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide

www.wildtrips.ca

Olivia Sofer

ACMG ASG/ HG
www.wildtrips.ca

 

[MCR] Monahsee Mountains - Mt. MacPherson Fingers - Jan.8-2013

Taking advantage of the break in the weather I spent the day in the Fingers today.

 

WEATHER – Yesterdays storm ended late last night and there was no snow today until late in the afternoon. The next storm has started and looks like it will last until Thursday am. No wind today but evidence of moderate downslope winds at the end of yesterday’s storm.

 

AVALANCHE ACTIVITY  - There was a cycle of avalanches in the Fingers sometime near the end of yesterdays storm (there was about 5cms of snow on the deposits) with several size 2.5’s. avalanches running well into the usual ski terrain. Ski cuts today on small steep convex rolls in areas with no wind effect produced only minor sluffing that stopped quickly. May be a different story where the wind has gotten at things

 

TRAVEL CONDITIONS – If you weren’t walking on old avalanche deposit the trail breaking was in the 30-50cms deep range (which was plenty deep enough believe me!). The skiing was basically amazing knee deep powder if you avoided where the avalanches had run. I couldn’t identify any surface hoar on the Jan.4/2013 interface but you could tell where it was in the snowpack.

 

On the Good side the avalanches have definitely covered lots of alder – on the bad side smaller avalanche may run farther in the future as lots of things have been smoothed over buy this cycle.

 

Have a great New Year,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Avalanche Control, Jan 9/10, 2013: Mt Dennis

In addition to the previous message, Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on Mt Dennis on either Wed, Jan 9 or Thursday, Jan 10.

Please no climbing/skiing in this area on both of these days. Thank you for your cooperation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

[MCR] Avalanche Control, Jan 9/10, 2013: Mounts Bourgeau, Vermilion, Whymper, Bosworth, Stephen, Field

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control using explosives on Mounts Bourgeau, Vermilion, Whymper, Bosworth, Stephen, and Field. This will either occur tomorrow, Jan 9, or Thursday, Jan 10, weather depending.

Please no skiing or climbing in these areas on both Wednesday and Thursday. Thank you for your cooperation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

[MCR] Rogans Gully (Parks rescue practice)

Please be advised that Parks Canada will be conducting an ice climbing
rescue practice on Rogans Gully tomorrow (Jan 7). Five people will be
present.

We will try to accommodate all parties. Thanks for your understanding.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Selkirks - Northern Valhallas

Skiing conditions continue to be excellent based out of Valhalla Mountain Touring in the northern Valhallas with an average snowpack depth of around 180cms at treeline.  We are now coming out of a period of good stability with a very strong/well settled mid snowpack.  However, the 15-20cms of new snow in the last 3 days has now buried 2 major layers of concern in this region.  The days of high pressure created a sun crust/facet/surface hoar layer that was buried on Jan 4 wit 10cms of new snow, and then by the morning of the 5th a new surface hoar layer from 5-10mm was created on all aspects and elevations skied that day, from 1700-2350m.  When it started snowing yesterday by noon, it was calm and seemed to bury the new surface hoar quite well.  10-15cms of new snow with a little wind already accumulated by this AM.  So now with lots of precip in the forecast a big heads up that the good times of the CAA low, low low danger rating are already over!  Stay safe out there the next few days.

Evan Stevens
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rockies, Aquarius and Rainbow Serpent

I guided an ascent of Aquarius and Rainbow Serpent today, Jan 5th. The drive in and out of the ghost was easy, very little in the way of drifts and good hard packed vehicle tracks. The creek at the first blue bridge was on the rise when we drove out.

Some wet ice on the way to Aquarius, but the route itself is dry and in good shape.

Fearful Symmetry has fallen down.

Rainbow Serpent is dry and in good shape. The first pillar is solid and offers reasonable protection. The second pillar has poorer protection and less secure climbing on lacy ice.

I didn't see anywhere near enough snow to create an avalanche in our travels today.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

Rainbow Serpent, Jan 5th:

[MCR] Cascade Mtn ice climbs

I guided Roguns Gully and the upper pitches on Cascade Falls today January 5th. We were surprised to have both climbs to ourselves today.

Roguns is in excellent shape and offers thick blue ice for most of the way. The snow walking sections on route offered easy travel on supportive snow. Sometime in the last week a size 1.5 avalanche ran in the bowl above Roguns and the debris ended just above the last pitch at the bolted belay.

The upper pitches of cascade have been feeling the effects of the sun. There are more open holes exposing the running water below, thin and hollow ice, and good protection is a little trickier to find.

Bye,

Kris Irwin - ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com


Sent from my iMachine
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Sorcerer and Hydrophobia route photos, Kananaskis Country

Both Photos were taken on the 5th of January/2013


Kananaskis Country Public Safety Program
Alberta Parks and Protected Areas
Kananaskis Country, AB
http://twitter.com/KCPublicSafety
http://www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety





This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.