[MCR] Conditions, Rockies - Lake Louise area

Photo from 8:30 today on Unnamed. A few centimetres of new snow at 2850m that will likely melt away quickly. Less snow than we anticipated with all of the recent rain.

[MCR] Edith Cavell Access and Parking, Rockies, August 29, 2014

The road up to the Mount Edith Cavell day use area is opening today, August 29th, 2014.

Climbers will be able to access the East Ridge route on Edith Cavell as previously. A superintendent's closure remains in effect around the tarn and drainage channels coming from it. This will mean a minor detour is needed to access the North Face routes on Edith Cavell and the East Ridge of Mt Sorrow. Details of this closure are posted in the day use area and the Jasper Information Centre.

A light dusting of snow was observed yesterday above 3000m on Edith Cavell. 

Rupert Wedgwood

ACMG Mountain Guide

Visitor Safety, Jasper National Park

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Aug 28, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Aug 28, 2014 Although there were a few nice days last week where alpine conditions were good, precipitation today has deposited fresh snow at high elevations (5-10cm) around Lake Louise. The weather forecast heading into the weekend looks quite mixed, so do not be too optimistic about a quick turnaround regarding conditions. The recent apprentice alpine guide exam has recently just wrapped up a thorough tour throughout the Rockies (Bow Valley to Louise group to the Columbia Icefields). They reported that glacier travel is generally challenging due to lack of snow cover and wide gaping crevasses. Notably, a bergshrund collapse on North Victoria caught their attention, highlighting that glaciers are routinely unstable as they dry out late in the season. Like the Rockies, guides in the interior speak about typical late summer climbing conditions (ie. high firn lines and dry glaciers). The Bugaboo Snowpatch col was purposefully avoided recently because of dry, dirty and unpleasant conditions. The crevasses in the Bugaboos apparently are becoming quite challenging to navigate as well. No new snow was observed in Rogers Pass, and as of a few days ago, perfect dry conditions existed. Given enough time to dry out, Rogers Pass may seem like a good option. In sum, expect a weekend of mixed weather, with small amounts snow covering already dry summer conditions at high elevations. Mountaineers might be best served by choosing rock climbing objectives with easy retreats this weekend. Aaron Beardmore ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies - Lake Louise area snow

For anyone hoping to get out into the alpine this weekend, it looks like the peaks in the Lake Louise group received a good dollop of snow above ~2800m last night and this morning. I'm guessing 5-10cm at the minimum. I had a glimpse at Mt. Victoria between cloud banks and things looked fairly white up there as well.



Ian Jackson
ACMG Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician | Technicien Sécurité de Visiteurs
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks | Parcs Natiounaux Banff, Yoho, Kootenay
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Monashee Mountains - Revelstoke - cragging access Shaketown

Just a quick heads up for anyone dropping through Revelstoke for some fall cragging over the long weekend.

 

The access bridge to Shaketown cragging area just south of Revelstoke, is undergoing repairs - as a result the road is closed from Aug.25 to Sept.7 - which effectively cuts off access during that time.

 

Cheers,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Bugaboo glacier access to spires. August 28th, 2014

Cold morning in the Bugs yesterday. We didn't even bother looking at the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col and wandered up the Bugaboo glacier with hopes of Surf's Up. Lots of sporty crevasse crossings on the upper Bugaboo glacier right now. Grey and windy along the divide so we went for Pigeon West Ridge instead. Descended by the Pigeon Snowpatch col rappels.

There is getting to be a pretty good trail under the south faces of Son of Snowpatch above the Bugaboo glacier. We went around the initial granite slabs on the glacier and went right near the top of that first ice slope. On the way down we picked it up from a big cairn down about 5 minutes walk from the base of the Pigeon/Snowpatch rappels.

With travel and some cleaning this trail could be a pretty good thing. It will of course, get beaten up by melt and spring avalanches but it is a good option during these dry spells as the lower glacier recedes. One caution, this is "new" glacial recession. Unlike the relatively stable granite talus around the Kain Hut/Applebee basin, these blocks have not "settled". I tried a short cut across some blocks at one point, gave them a kick as I was unsure and retreated as a big pile of them shifted, creaked and groaned.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Dome Traverse

Hi Everyone,

I attempted the Dome Traverse with a guest this morning starting from the north on Abbot, getting as far as Afton.  We turned around on Afton due rain overnight (7mm at Fidelity) causing slick lichen/quartzite conditions that made footing insecure and movement slow.  

Surprisingly little rockfall observed or heard all day.

We had Larry Stanier level optimism that the sun would come out and the wind would blow the rock dry, but it did not.  Home we came.

The freezing levels stayed high overnight, no new snow observed from the Abbott ridge looking towards Mt. Sir Donald and not even skiff on the north side of Mt. Bonney.  

On the plus side, the forecast cooler & wetter weather this week may help bring the snow & ice faces to come back around.  As is the same in many of the other ranges, the glaciers in the Roger's Pass are exceptionally dry this summer.

Enjoy,

Paddy Jerome

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide 

106 - 1080 A Cougar Creek Drive

Canmore, Alberta T1W 1A4
www.canadianrockies-mountainguides.com
(C) 403 609 0795

[MCR] Rogers Pass, Youngs Peak

I guided an ascent of the Northwest Face of Youngs Peak today, August 27th. We stayed on the south edge of the glacier to take advantage of the snow that is left. There is rockfall danger from the Southwest Ridge as you gain the steepest face of the glacier. We moved into the centre and away from the SW Ridge. Three 60 metre pitches of low angle ice climbing saw us onto the upper snow covered glacier where crevasses were easily walked around.

We rappeled the ice pitches off of an initial snow anchor (a forearm sized rock T slotted) and abalakovs.

A very pleasant outing.

Mountain Guide, Barry Blanchard, live from the Asulkan Hut.
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iThingy
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies - Mt. Athabasca

>
> Hello MCR Subscribers,
>
> Up to 10cm of new snow above 3000m on Athabasca today made for good travel conditions up the Silverhorn and down the ramp route. Weather was mostly sunny with light to moderate winds from the SW. The bergschrund is still easily passable and we protected the climbing with ice screws in good alpine ice.
> The new snow is bonding well to the old snow/ice surface and we did not encounter winds slabs in the alpine where we travelled. However, the new snow was moistening in the early afternoon and from safety of the lower morraines we witnessed a size 1 point release avalanche that swept the right side of the Silverhorn.
>
>
> Ramp Route

[MCR] Interior Conditions : Sir Donald / Uto, Aug 26

Mt Sir Donald is as dry as a sun-baked bone in the Sahara Desert. One would not touch snow anywhere on the route right now, nor on Uto Peak. It should stay that way for a couple more days, but will likely get a fresh dusting of snow on the weekend. There must be guide exams happening right now, bringing the snow...

Chris Gooliaff

ACMG MG

[MCR] Rockies, Mts Fay and Little

My fellow guide, James Madden, and I guided ascents of the west ridge of Mt Fay, Aug 24, and the north ridge of Mt Little, Aug 25 th. Both climbs were made from the Colgan Hut. The peaks and glacier are very dry even given several centimetres of new snow on the ice. Good freezes both nights created some slipperiness on frost coated rock. Otherwise all of the rock is bare. We didn't touch any snow on our way up the Schiesser/Lomas, or down the Perrin.

Sent from the Asulkan Hut,
Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iThingy
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies - Hungabee

We went to have a look at Hungabee yesterday and the west face route still had a significant amount of snow on it down to below 3000 m. Most other rock faces in the area are bone dry (except for north faces). I think there must have been an afternoon cloud hanging on Hungabee the last few days that inhibited melting. We chose to head back out and climb elsewhere today. Driving to Lake Louise this morning there is a similar band of snow on Temple south face, in the spot where webcams have been showing a consistent cloud cap forming every day since the recent poor weather.

[MCR] Mt Brazeau, Valad, Henry Macleod - JNP

Climbed the south face of Mt Brazeau and traversed both Mt Valad and Mt Henry Macleod over the weekend (Aug 22 to 24).
 
Above 2600m up to 5cm of snow fell Friday afternoon and evening making for a chilly bivy, but most of this was melted away by Saturday afternoon.
 
We found generally good late season conditions on the glaciers in this region. Bergschrunds and crevasses have opened up significantly this summer, but enough snow coverage and bridging allowed for reasonably direct and efficient route-finding on all three peaks. Due to snowy conditions we made one 17 metre rappel off of an in-situ rock anchor while descending the rock of the north ridge of Valad. This may be avoidable in dry conditions (or by by-passing onto the glacier over a large schrund), but it was nice to have a 40 metre rope in our case.
 
Bivy sites are in good shape with easy access to water.
 
The approach from the SW via Poboktan Creek is in good condition.


Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Bugaboos

Just got back from a weekend in the Bugs. A bit of precip on Friday but things were dry and good to go for Saturday. Beautiful weather Sat/Sun with a few sprinkles as I was hiking out later in the afternoon today.

In case you're thinking about heading up the BS col in the near future better take a close look at this photo first. It's grim right now.

Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
www.sawback.com
Canmore, Alberta

[MCR] Mt. Alexandra area

Spent five days (Aug 17-22) with a guest in the upper South Rice Brook
valley. Out of the four climbing days, Monday and Wednesday were mainly dry
and allowed us to climb a couple of peaks. The rest of the time the weather
was showery and wet. As noted everywhere else, the warm, dry summer has
taken its toll.

Aug 18, Mt. Alexandra: The West Alexandra Glacier was bare, except for the
last 300m to the Alexandra - Whiterose col. Some crevasse weaving was
necessary, but it was not too complex. Where some of the route descriptions
talk about a snow gully to start the SW slopes, we found a melted out scree
gully that had recently produced rock fall to car size. The upper 'easy snow
slopes' were dirty, rock studded ice slopes, so we ended up on scree covered
slabs instead, which made for a longer day. We bypassed the summit ice dome
on the left (W) side, but still had to put on the crampons for the last 15m
to the ice summit. Full day.

Aug 20, Rose Petal (831-568): Up the Whiterose - Rose Petal glacier
(picture), mostly easy going with 15min of weaving between some impressive
holes in the upper part. Easy, good quality rock on the E rib to the summit.
Greasy, black shale on the other side on descent down the W ridge toward the
Whirlwind col. No crevasse issues on the small N glacier toward camp.
Steeper sections with loose rock on bare ice can be avoided. This is an easy
trip that can be done in half a day with marginal weather.

Comments: A 40m rope was plenty for both trips. Flying time about 25min one
way with a Bell 407 from Golden. The camp in upper South Rice Brook (used by
the ACC GMC in the past) is comfortable, with lots of space and clean water
from a small stream on the SW side. To cross the valley going N, of the two
bridges was still in, the other creek had stepping stones in place. Not much
bear sign around camp. Bring your fossil book. When we left on Friday there
was a dusting of snow down to about 2600m.

Kobi Wyss
Mountain Guide

[MCR] The Watch Tower - Lake O'Hara - Rockies

The Watch Tower - Lake O'Hara - Rockies
 
We climbed the West Face (II 5.7) of the Watch Tower yesterday  near Lake O'Hara.    

 

There was a dusting of snow above 3000m on surrounding peaks, but the rock was dry on our climb at 2500m.    

We climbed the route in three pitches and each pitch is equipped with a bolted anchor. The leftward traverse on the third pitch is protected by fixed pins. The rappel off the NE face is easy to spot from the summit cairn and is set up with four ring bolts stations.  

We did not find any well defined trails or cairns on the approach or descent but following Watch Tower Creek is fairly straightforward.
 
Renée Lavergne, ARG 

Helen Sovdat MG 

[MCR] Roger's Pass

Good Morning,

The freezing level appeared to be above 3000 meters with a light skiff of snow on predominantly sheltered and northerly aspects from the cooler wet weather last week.  The bypass on Mt.Sir Donald had a light dusting visible yesterday morning but was dry today.  The only snow still visible was on the north face of Mt. Bonney.

Take Care,

Paddy Jerome
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@pc.gc.ca
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Peveril Peak Jasper Portal Creek

Climbed Peveril Peak yesterday during a fine day in Jasper.

Checked all the pins on the route.
The climb can be done with a 40 metre rope, end roping 2 people. The
first pitch on the upper buttress is the longest, with the belay
being at two pitons just below top of this buttress.

Descent:
From the summit follow the cairns immediately heading down the South
side. (20m from summit) The trail is getting well beaten in, and
there do not seem to be any false cairns. I marked the key ones with
flagging tape.
When in doubt just slow down and look around and you will find the
next cairn or the trail.

I added one piton on the descent, where the short exposed traverse
leads to the scree bowl. This could use a bolt further along
especially if this section is wet.
Once in the scree bowl, follow it down sticking to the left side.
Lower down this bowl funnels and cliffs out. Just before it does,
look left and you will see the cairn that crosses the rib and leads
to easier terrain.

Looked like a light dusting of snow on Cavell.

Peter Amann



Peter Amann

www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies-Lake O'Hara area

Snow overnight and as of this afternoon it looks like about 5cm of snow remaining on most aspects above 3000m. Clouds hanging around the peaks all day so it is really variable which faces still are white.

Otherwise DRY. For example, Opabin pass is kinda of ugly right now with ancient ice, LOTS of new loose rock and a 50cm wide crevasse just below the schrund. Lovely.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Athabasca N Face Bypass Aug 20

Kris Irwin and I guided a small group up the N Face Bypass route on Mt Athabasca two days ago (Aug 20).

In the lower ice gully we were strafed by a couple of episodes of minor rockfall which seemed to be a result of warm air temperatures. With clear skies, a reasonable overnight radiation freeze, and an early start we had hoped we could beat the heat. Fortunately it did no more than get our attention.

While it was raining further south we had excellent weather and travel conditions on hard snow and ice surfaces. All ice above the bergschrund.

A few pitches above the schrund:

The Scottish Gully:

Ramp route is in excellent condition. AA Col is reported to be in poor condition. Here's a photo of the Ramp:

Looking across at the AAG exam pitching it out on the Silverhorn:

Regards,

Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
www.sawback.com
Canmore, Alberta

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 22, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 22, 2014 With the heavy rain we have seen this week there has been very little information about current conditions in the Rockies and Columbia mountains. The freezing level has remained relatively high but I suspect there will be new snow below mountain top elevations in the taller ranges. The forecast for the weekend is a bit better the further west you go with Saturday looking like the best day overall. I will be trying to find a dry place to rock climb but, if I was inclined to head into the alpine my attention would be focused on new snow and rockfall. With these conditions it would not take much new snow and wind to hide crevasses or build small isolated wind slabs on high ridges. Also, with all of the rain that has fallen, the potential for rockfall has likely increased significantly. As Steve mentioned last week, the long hot summer has taken its toll on the mountains with lots of 'permanent' ice melting and snow lines being at record high elevations. The increased rockfall potential from this melting will not likely have been fixed and could possibly have been magnified by the recent precipitation. On the brighter side for those with a bit of flexibility, Monday to Wednesday looks sunny and warmer across the entire forecast area! Have a great weekend. Marc Piché ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Apology for Recent Spam

Hello recipients of the ACMG Informalex and Mountain Conditions Report.

The computer belonging to one of our members was stolen and subsequently
hacked. This led to some Spam that was sent to most, if not all, members
of the Informalex and MCR list serves.

Our member contacted me today and asked me to relay his apologies to you.
We believe the problem has been fixed, but if not, please don't open any
e-mail that doesn't look as though it is a real Informalex or Mountain
Conditions Report posting.

Hope you are all having a great summer.

Peter Tucker
ACMG Executive Director
B: +1.403.949.3587
M: +1.403.689.4324
ed@acmg.ca | www.acmg.ca


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 16, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 16, 2014 It has been a great summer for weather so far and as a result, the mountains are very dry at the moment. In the Rockies, ice faces are looking dirty and one can guarantee rocks will be raining down if temperatures are warm. Ice ridges are dry as well and in decent condition. Most rock faces including the high North walls are mainly dry and have been in exceptional condition. Snow bridges over crevasses are withering away fast and the firn (snow) line on Mt. Robson is as high as one experienced guide has seen it since 1977! The interior ranges are much the same with increased rockfall potential in areas like the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col. The forecast looks quite unsettled and rainy through next week with Monday so far looking like the driest day. This may put some of the bigger rock objectives on hold for a bit, and we may even see a dusting of snow in the high peaks at some point. Fall is coming fast. Cheers Steve Holeczi ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Resplendent/Robson conditions

BEGIN:VCARD
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Just back yesterday guiding with Jean Gamilofsky on a Yamnuska trip to Robson. The firn line is the highest I have ever seen it in the region since my first trip there in 1977. The lower Robson Glacier is largely snow free to 2800 meters making for fast easy cramponing to just below the Robson Icefall. We had good traveling on well settled wet snow to the Robson/Resplendent Col. Several of the key snow bridges were very fragile and will likely not last with continued warm weather. Once these bridges fail travel to the col will be difficult. Temperatures from Aug 11 to 15 ranged at 9.0 degrees for the low and 18.0 as the maximum at our camp at 3000m. Old tracks on the Kain route were clearly visible to high on the "Roof" as were the nearly constant size 1 to 1.5 point releases draining the Kain Face which shows a lot more ice than usual.  As such, we opted for Mt Resplendent which was in good but icy conditions. There is a large crevasse barring the summit ridge on Resplendent about 20 vertical meters below the summit.

 

Cheers

James Blench IFMGA

[MCR] Mat ched

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[MCR] Selkirks. Mt Begbie. August 14th. 2014

Fine day on Mt Begbie North ridge, especially since we were down before the big afternoon soaking. Excellent conditions. Bare ice on bottom 1/2 of glacier and one place where a probe really helped cross a strip of snow with a sneaky crevasse in it

Dry from snow up. The "ledge" now has an interesting move right off the bat that comes up long before you reach the bolt protected moves. It is maybe 4th class but exposed and high consequence if you fell off. A slippery horn anchor can be found but a #1 and #2 Camalot make a fine anchor and a #3 would protect the move well for the 2nd and the leader.

Really nice route in these conditions.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] East Ridge of Mt Patterson, Rockies, August 12, 2014

Guided an ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Patterson today with a descent via Delta Creek back to the road.

The route is dry and in good shape and has seen a few ascents in the last week. Other than the glacier at the bottom, all snow patches can be avoided.

There are few steps of bare ice on the low angle glacier that gets you to the base of the 5th class climbing. We put on crampons but you might still be able to sneak around these bits on snow. The glacier descent heading down into Delta Creek has an 80m steeper roll that is also bare ice, so steel crampons were useful here.

The Patterson East Ridge climbing route has been set up to descend all the steepest climbing sections with 30m rappels off of pitons, rock horns, and the occasional bolts, but it would still involve lots of 3rd and 4th class downclimbing. 

--

Conrad Janzen

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff Mountain Guides

[MCR] Lunette Peak/Mt. Assiniboine

Hello MCR Subscribers,

 

Climbed the West face routes on Lunette Peak and Mt. Assiniboine with Peter D yesterday August 10th. 

We approached from the RC Hind Hut and descended the North ridge of Assiniboine. Crampons and axe were necessary to gain the Assiniboine-Sturdee Col. The rubbly ledge that begins 20m above the Assiniboine-Sturdee col and cuts across the West Face of Assiniboine was dry and we did not hear or see any rock fall.  The route from there to the summit of both peaks was mostly dry and we were able to avoid a few lingering snow patches by sticking to the rock.

An excellent trip and a good way to climb two 11000ers in a day.

 

West Face ledge – Sturdee-Assiniboine col in the background

 

 

Assiniboine-Sturdee Glacier

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

 

[MCR] Photos of the Icefields Parkway, August 11, 2014

A bunch of recent photos of the Wapta, Lyells, Forbes and Howse Peak from a flight North of Lake Louise are located here.

Conrad Janzen

Visitor Safety

Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] East Ridge of Temple August 10

I guided The East Ridge yesterday.  The upper glacier had about 5 to 10 cm of snow on soft ice underneath which created good footing.  The only section which had hard ice and I had to pitch it out was at the top bergschrund for about 30 meters.  Overall it was straight forward.  I would give it another week or two and it will not be as straight forward.

Marco Delesalle

 Mountain Guide

www.greatdividemountaineering.com

 

[MCR] Leaning Towers

Hi All,

I guided a trip into the Leaning Towers in the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy from Aug 3-8^th, accessing them from Dewar Creek. The road to the trailhead has been worked on after the spring washouts and is now fully passable with a high clearance vehicle, otherwise you’ll need to park and hike an extra km or two. The outfitter in the area has cleared all deadfall off the trail, and regularly travels this route by horseback to the hot springs.

Early am glacier travel required crampons, and glacial retreat appears substantial compared to photos only a few years old – meaning glacier routes to access climbs may not be the same as what you might have remembered them to be if you’ve been there before or are relying on beta a few years old. We climbed Twomey Peak and also put up a new route on the East Face of Sharkshead Tower, ascended both summits, descended the east face via the rock couloirs that separates the two summits.  Additional rappels from the nunatak below the east face allowed us to bypass the steep and heavily crevassed glacier section.  Access between the Towers and Dewar Pass seems most enjoyable if a high contour around the moraines is maintained. The hot springs are real treat after descending from Dewar Pass.

One other party of two reported that they did two routes on the east face of Hall Peak.

Low impact (i.e. leave no trace) camping is mandatory in this beautiful, well preserved wilderness area.

Enjoy the summer!

 

Kirk Mauthner

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Basecamp Innovations Ltd

PO Box 399 Invermere, BC

Canada V0A 1K0

www.basecampinnovations.com

250.342.6042

 

[MCR] Banff Highline, Rockies, August 4-10

Hello all,

 

  I recently guided a group on the Banff Highline this past week, starting at Vista Lake on August 4th and finishing at the Mt. Shark trailhead on the 10th. For the most part the trails are in excellent shape - dry and clear. The one exception is the section of trail from the Shadow Lake campground to Whistling Pass which still has some boggy sections and fallen trees across the trail.

 

Nathan Dahl

Hiking Guide 

[MCR] Rockies, EEOR, Reprobate

I guided an ascent of Reprobate yesterday, August 9th. I hadn't been on the route since the early 90s. We used the route picture/topo and description from Canadian Rock, Select Climbs of the West and each pitch outlined there ends at a bolted anchor. I think that the first two pitches, especially the second, have taken a hit for the loose with last year's floods and some traffic. There are loose blocks and one must climb with care. The rest of the route is very solid and there are ring bolts to the end of pitch 8. The anchors of pitch 9 and 10 are two hanger (no ring bolts). Pitch 10 was 63 or 64 metres for us. Pitch 11 mentions a chimney, but we climbed the crack indicated on the picture/topo and there is no chimney (I think the chimney is the next crack to the right in the picture). We didn't find a bolted anchor at the end of pitch 11 (the top), perhaps there is one on top of the chimney?

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Mount Athabasca August 8th

I guided Athabasca today (August 8th).  Great travel conditions, up and down the ramp route (see photo).  It is steep but had secure footing (with crampons) in snow.  The AA Col looked unappealing.

Regards,

Jordy Shepherd

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Web: www.PeakAlpine.com

www.FaceBook.com/JordyCanmore

[MCR] Wapta Conditions

Hi Team,

I am just arriving back from a private Crossfit Intro to Mountaineering at the Bow and Peyto huts for Yamnuska.com. During this trip we summited Rhondda, Habel, Baker, Trapper and Peyto peaks and observed the following conditions:

Peyto to Bow
Yesterday we were able to travel on dry glacier from Peyto to the Thompson shoulder. The high glacier traverse to the Onion shoulder has less than 60cm and more often less than 30cm of snow.

Peyto Glacier
The fern (snow) line is between 2400-2600m depending on aspect. Snow depth is generally less than 60cm but boot pen was consistently less than ankle even in the afternoon.

Rhondda
It is possible to ascend the S ridge on snow or rock. Once on the ridge it is possible to avoid all snow/glacier to the summit. We descended midway along the E face on good bridges avoiding the open seracs.

Habel
The snow/ice arête to gain the Habel/Baker col has less than 10cms of snow at it's narrowest point. The north face talus slope and ridge to the summit are snow free. We descended the S face early afternoon on good snow and supportive bridges.

Baker
The SE face has great neve up to 50 degrees. In spite of above freezing nighttime temps, we experienced a supportive crust that began breaking down shortly after 7am. Most of the cornices are gone on the N ridge. The scramble down involves some rock and ice.

Trapper
The E face has supportive snow up to 35 degrees. At noon we were able to walk down the face in supportive steps.

Peyto
There is still snow in a gully that leads to the col W of the peak. We crossed open talus slopes below the S face to the small summit tower.

Thanks to Dave and crew for a fun week of mountaineering.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

[MCR] Rockies, Castle Mtn Ultra Brewers

I guided an ascent of Ultra Brewers from Castle Hut today, August 7th. We descended the normal hut approach and traversed to the route. It was me first time on the route and the BIG cairn that several guides told me about isn't there right now, but there is a ground level bolt and two more a little ways up and that makes the route easy to find.

We chose to traverse back to Castle Hut to descend and my fellow guide, Conrad Janzen, and guest, were there. Conrad pointed out a good kitchen tap volume of water spouting from under the pick-up sized boulders that mark the right turn out of the approach gully to the hut. "Fills a water jug in about three minutes", he said. I saw it on the way down and think that I've known about it in the past, but forgot.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Mt. Hungabee West face/ridge

Excellent conditions on Mt. Hungabee right now.  Good travel and bridging over crevasses on the Opabin glacier (some open crevasses on the edge of the glacier).  If you are planning on bivying, there is a large, broad snow patch at the usual bivy site which should last a while. 

The West face is in usual summer shape, with some ice patches near the top that are prone to rockfall.   No natural rockfall was observed today, but any is avoidable by sticking to the far right side of the bowl.  

We ascended the Stanier variation on the upper mountain,  which continues up the West face/ridge where the original route goes hard right over exposed rubble and icy patches.

This variation which meets up with the knife edged North ridge near the summit was dry and aesthetic with far less exposure to natural rockfall for the ascent and descent than the original line. 

Cheers

Steve Holeczi

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Uto/Sir Donald

Hello MCR subscribers,

Alex P and I enjoyed perfect weather and conditions on the south-west ridge of Uto yesterday and the north-west ridge of Sir D today, using the by-pass descent. Both routes are dry and did not require crampons or an ice axe. There is no drinking water on either route but plenty flowing at the lower bivy site.

Kris Irwin - ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies, Castle Mountain

I guided an ascent of Brewer Buttress today, August 6th. The route and the descent gully are bone dry. Water is flowing slowly from the Epic Gully and it didn't really vary with the heat today. Take a shovel and a measuring cup from the hut if you're filling up the water jugs.

Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska.com

Sent from my iThingy
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 6th, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 6th, 2014 Conditions are about as they good as they get for summer alpine rock climbing. Bits of snow are still around in very high, mostly shady places but all the classic rock ridges and even most faces are climbable. The only issue is the daytime melting on the big faces. It has been close to freezing over night and warm during the days for the foreseeable future. This combined with the retreating ice means rockfall is likely the biggest hazard at this time in the mountains. Lots of bare ice starting to show low on the glaciers and on the ice faces. Many bergschrunds are still in surprisingly good shape but there are surely some problematic schrunds and crevasses out there. Lots of ice around the edge of the snowpatches too. Crampons, ice screws etc need to be considered if you are going anywhere near the glaciers and into the snowy alpine. We seem to be in for a cycle of thunderstorm activity so plan accordingly and try to have a fast exit strategy to reach safer ground if things even look like they might get exciting. An old pilots expression applies very well to mountaineering in stormy weather "I'd rather be down here wishing I was up there,then be up there wishing I was down here" Get after it if you can. The days are getting shorter already but we still hopefully have a bunch of fine summer days left. Larry Stanier ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Joffre Area, Kananaskis Country

Picture of Mt Joffre as taken from North Over ridge area a few days ago.  A trail crew was also recently in this area brushing out the trail around Hidden lake and removing all the downed trees across this route (It is not an official trail) making it a bit more enjoyable.

 

Kananaskis Public Safety Program

 

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[MCR] Bugaboos - East Creek Approach

Hi,

We were camping in East Creek below the South Howser Tower from July 31-August 3.  The approach to the East Creek Camp (Beckey-Chouinard, Pigeon Feathers and West Face of North Howser) is still mostly snow covered and in generally good shape however it is melting out fast.  There was a short section of bare ice on the lower glacier but many people were still able to navigate it without crampons if the snow was not too frozen. The icy section was growing bigger by the day.

Of note, the icefall/serac that threatens the skiers right hand side of the approach looks particularly rugged this year.  It has been shedding small (TV sized) chunks quite regularly and there is evidence of some pretty large events from earlier this summer. We gave it a wide berth to the skiers left and didn't waste any time while travelling underneath it.

Also, the last ~100m of the approach to the West Ridge of Pigeon has a few bridged crevasses opening up.  We managed to avoid them (for now) by detouring a bit to the climbers right and heading straight up to the start of the ridge.

See attached photo of South Howser serac and Pigeon - Howser col directly above climbers.

Marc Piché

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Assiniboine and Edith Cavell

Kirsten Knechtel and I just spent the past 4 days guiding Assiniboine and Edith Cavell.  Assiniboine was still dry and bare as of the 3rd despite lots of thunderstorms.  Crampons were handy however for the approach in from Settlers, on the glacier.

Edith Cavell did not require any crampons either, nor an ice axe, if you avoided snow on the approach, and patches on route as we did. Dry and good to go as of yesterday.

Sarah Hueniken

www.sarahhueniken.com

ACMG Alpine Guide

 

[MCR] Lyells and Forbes

I spent the last six days guiding the Lyells and Mount Forbes.  Perfect glacier travel conditions are to be found on the Divide at the moment.  We had enough of a freeze every night for fast travel and decent snow coverage which made for easy route finding on both the Lyell and Mons/West Glacier approaches.

Bergschrunds on Lyells 3 and 5 were open but easily crossed on large bridges.  There is no ice present yet on any of the steeper faces, including the South Face of 5, and the snow is firm enough for solid T-slot placements.  The N Ridge on Lyell 4 is in great shape with stable snow ridges in the am and dry rock on the 5.4 step.  Anchors at the base and top of the rock step are exposed and in good condition, no extra gear was needed.  We did not traverse from 4 to 5 due to logistical constraints but the connecting ridge is mainly clear of snow and looks to be in very straightforward condition.

We used the Rosita Couloir at the head of the West Glacier to access the North Glacier and then West Ridge of Mt. Forbes.  The couloir has old avalanche debris in the bottom quarter, followed by low angled scree to the top.  The NW Face of Forbes was almost all bare ice over top of a gaping bergschrund so we avoided it and stayed on the West Ridge.  The bergschrund was easily crossed on climber's right on firm snow.  A few mid-sized cams were handy to get past the lower rock steps, as well as a few screws for the 4 pitches of 35 degree snice in the middle of the route.  Lower-angled, snow-free scree made for quick travel in the top section.

Little rockfall was observed in general but we were out of exposed areas by 11am or noon each day and were happy to be off the softening snow of the glaciers by early afternoon.

The descent from the Mons Hut along the Mons Ramp is well marked and was easy to cross with some coaching through loose sections.  The Valenciennes road is passable to km 21 or so with high clearance 4x4.  The huts are in great shape with snow to melt at the Lyell and running water at the Mons.  All in all, great conditions up there right now.

Pierre Hungr

MG

[MCR] 140802-04 Mt.Alberta East face, Japanese route

Hi Everybody

Three Japanese went to climb and two summited Mt.Alberta East face via Japanese route 8/2-4 under mixed weather.

Here is what we saw on our trip.

I had to stop at bottom of J-couloir so from climbing section to summit is sent on behalf of my partner Takeshi Tani.

Day1 (8/2) sunny 7.5h Car to hut

Day2 (8/3) mainly cloudy some thunder showers 22h Hut to hut

Day3 (8/4) mainly cloudy 5.5h Hut to car

Sunwapta river was under knee deep in the morining (0630) and some spots are thigh deep on our way out (1430), but easily crossed.

Approach to hut was in good shape.

Hut to bivy was mostly dry we crossed one snowpatch and used crampons in the morning.

Bivy to bottom of J-couloir was mostly dry, there were two rap stations in the first gully. 

Climbing section was all dry.

Summit ridge was mostly dry include the notch (photo attached).

We carried crampons and double axes to the summit but did not use them. 

Gear : 60m rope×2, standard rack,a lots of cordallets.

 

I don't have to say but of course all rocks are loose.

I maintained trail and added cairns on second ledge to start point of climbing during waiting time.

Have fun out there!

Yuji Akiyama, ACMG ASG

Takeshi Tani, ACMG HG

Chiharu Hoshino, Samurai

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Athabasca

My fellow guides, Merrie-Beth Board, Alex Geary, Jason Billing and I guided Mt Athabasca yesterday, August 4th. The mountain is dry and warm. The North Glacier "Ramp" route should be used as the standard until it gets colder and/or snows (Alex guided the AA Col route on August 4th and it was icy over the bergshrund and there was rockfall around. This route is in poor condition).

We used the upper traditional access to the glacier and it is stumbly but pretty straight forward. We stepped onto snow just below the nunatak and it is carrying well, yet allowed for boot-top steps and a decently secure trail across the ramp. Bare ice above the ramp and dry rock all the way up the Silverhorn. Crampons were taken on and off several times during the ascent.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Gimli conditions & access update, Southern Selkirks

Hi all,

I guided and ascent of the Northwest ridge (Strings of Diamonds) on Gimli peak today August 4th. All rock faces and ridges in this area are dry and currently in great conditions. From our vantage point we noticed that the north side of the Gimli col was in mixed snow and ice conditions. Crampons may now be required to access the climbs around Mulvey Basin from this col. On another note, the water source at the Gimli campsite is still running but the snow patches feeding it are melting rapidly. 

Of note, International Forest Products Ltd. (Interfor) has recently brushed the Gimli access road and is in the process of upgrading it for logging purposes. This will cause some delays and possible road closures over the next few years, be sure to check the Valhalla Park website before heading in. These closures will be posted at the top of the website here:

http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/valhalla/

The road is still very rough at the moment and requires a 4 X 4 / high clearance vehicle, this should improve as road work progresses over the next few years.

Have a great week!

David Lussier
acmg mountain guide
www.summitmountainguides.com

[MCR] Abbot Pass to Lake Louise

For anyone wondering about walking down the glacier from Abbot Pass to Lake Louise - there is a large crevasse spanning the entire route that looks very difficult to get across.  You cannot see this crevasse when looking down from Abbot Pass.

 

See the attached photo.

 

The Fuhrmann Ledges route is presently dry across the main ledge and is a better alternative for dry summer conditions.

 

Grant Statham

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Lake Louise Group

Been out climbing in the Lake Louise area over the last week. Perfect summer weather has made for great alpine conditions. We even had a good freeze early in the morning on Friday on the Huber glacier, which made for excellent snow travel. In general rock ridges are dry and ice faces are starting to look ugly. Here are a few photos that show current conditions. 

Cheers

Ian Jackson

ACMG Mountain Guide