[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 6th, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 6th, 2014 Conditions are about as they good as they get for summer alpine rock climbing. Bits of snow are still around in very high, mostly shady places but all the classic rock ridges and even most faces are climbable. The only issue is the daytime melting on the big faces. It has been close to freezing over night and warm during the days for the foreseeable future. This combined with the retreating ice means rockfall is likely the biggest hazard at this time in the mountains. Lots of bare ice starting to show low on the glaciers and on the ice faces. Many bergschrunds are still in surprisingly good shape but there are surely some problematic schrunds and crevasses out there. Lots of ice around the edge of the snowpatches too. Crampons, ice screws etc need to be considered if you are going anywhere near the glaciers and into the snowy alpine. We seem to be in for a cycle of thunderstorm activity so plan accordingly and try to have a fast exit strategy to reach safer ground if things even look like they might get exciting. An old pilots expression applies very well to mountaineering in stormy weather "I'd rather be down here wishing I was up there,then be up there wishing I was down here" Get after it if you can. The days are getting shorter already but we still hopefully have a bunch of fine summer days left. Larry Stanier ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.