I am just arriving back from a private Crossfit Intro to Mountaineering at the Bow and Peyto huts for Yamnuska.com. During this trip we summited Rhondda, Habel, Baker, Trapper and Peyto peaks and observed the following conditions:
Peyto to Bow
Yesterday we were able to travel on dry glacier from Peyto to the Thompson shoulder. The high glacier traverse to the Onion shoulder has less than 60cm and more often less than 30cm of snow.
Peyto Glacier
The fern (snow) line is between 2400-2600m depending on aspect. Snow depth is generally less than 60cm but boot pen was consistently less than ankle even in the afternoon.
Rhondda
It is possible to ascend the S ridge on snow or rock. Once on the ridge it is possible to avoid all snow/glacier to the summit. We descended midway along the E face on good bridges avoiding the open seracs.
Habel
The snow/ice arête to gain the Habel/Baker col has less than 10cms of snow at it's narrowest point. The north face talus slope and ridge to the summit are snow free. We descended the S face early afternoon on good snow and supportive bridges.
Baker
The SE face has great neve up to 50 degrees. In spite of above freezing nighttime temps, we experienced a supportive crust that began breaking down shortly after 7am. Most of the cornices are gone on the N ridge. The scramble down involves some rock and ice.
Trapper
The E face has supportive snow up to 35 degrees. At noon we were able to walk down the face in supportive steps.
Peyto
There is still snow in a gully that leads to the col W of the peak. We crossed open talus slopes below the S face to the small summit tower.
Thanks to Dave and crew for a fun week of mountaineering.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com
