[MCR] Columbia Icefields alpine conditions

Passed on from Steve House, IFMGA:

On 2/30/13 two parties climbed the Slawinski-Takeda and the Isaac-Huisman routes on the north buttress of Mt. Athabasca. Travel conditions were found to be very good with minimal snow and what snow there is being quite compact. Conditions for the approach and descent are very close to ideal. Other alpine routes in the area look to be in fine condition with a blend of gray ice and snow cover visible on Athabasca's north face as well as on the routes on the northern aspects of Mt. Andromeda. 

Steve Holeczi

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Nesting owls Grassi lakes, Kananaskis Country

Conservation officers in Kananaskis Country have closed two routes at Grassi lakes for nesting owls.

 

Please see the attachment for additional details.

 

Public Safety Program

Kananaskis Country, AB

http://twitter.com/KCPublicSafety

http://www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety

 

 

 

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[MCR] Kootenay Pass, White Queen near Nelson, Selkirk Mountains

I spent the last two days guiding some guests in the Nelson area.
Yesterday we went to Kootenay Pass. We parked at the pull-out east of
the pass near where the power lines cross the highway. We toured up the
south face of Windy Ridge toward Rock Ridge Pass, then skied down the
north side into the Carolina Creek drainage. Unfortunately, the warm
temps of the past week have now made the north aspects crusty. The
crust was thin but skiable with aggressive turns. We finished the trip
by touring out through Pristine Pass. By the time we got there, the
snow had turned to mashed potatoes. This produced the biggest hazard of
the trip - loose, wet sluffs.

Today we went up the west ridge of White Queen and skied down the north
ridge that joins Mt. Beattie. Again we experienced the same skiable
north aspect crust. We got down early and so avoided the afternoon schmoo.

The daytime temperatures were well above freezing, even up to 2100m
elevation. The temperature at 9AM today at the Hummingbird Pass parking
lot was +2. I guess spring has arrived.

Play safely.

Craig Hollinger,
ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Spring skiing in the Howsons

Spring has arrived in the northern mountains. Today we skied to the
Middle Solitaire Glacier in very pleasant spring conditions: firm 15 cm
crust to about 2000 m. We climbed up this with ski crampons. On the
upper, less sun exposed glacier the snow was soft. We skied through soft
snow, great corn and very pleasant schmoo all the way to the toe of the
Burnie Glacier. I would not want to be on anything steep and sun exposed
much after 1300 hours. Otherwise, we had few stability concerns apart
from cornices overhead and even a bit of rockfall rolling down the hard
surface in the morning.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Qualified Avalanche Planner CAA
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] corn skiing in kootenay national park

Happy Easter and Spring ski touring season!

We found some fun corn skiing today in the valley south of Boom Lake, on a south facing slide path. The corn was ripe between noon and 1pm. We heard some avalanches off solar slopes after 1:30pm. We also found some north facing powder snow on the other side of the valley. Conditions are great right now, especially if you can find a well-beaten trail to get you out of the parking lot and above the breakable crust.

Some other details about the south facing slide path are: the supportive crust is approximately 10cm thick. We found CTE and CTM results down 40 and 70cm respectively with a fracture character of Sudden Collapse in facets on both layers. Old tracks softened up and were easy to ski through in the corn snow.

 jen olson

acmg/ifmga mountain guide

working for Mountain Skills Academy

[MCR] Rockies - Wapta in a day

Hey there,

Just back a 15 hour traverse yesterday across the Wapta, from Peyto Lake to the West Louise/Great Divide Lodge yesterday with the uber fit Ben and Robbie from Calgary. Robbie did the whole thing on his split too... so much for being slower on a board.

 

Overall conditions were really good for the trip. Wind affect has reduced the ski penetration to less than 10cm's the whole way across, making the travel comfortable and quick.

Not much change since Mark's report last week, if anything, felt like an improving trend.

The Balfour High Col felt straight forward with good vis and well bridged crevasses. Despite that we kept the rope on for the entire ascent to the col. Recent activity from the seracs has still been limited to the bench feature below them, no recent activity since Mark's last post.

Cloud cover was helpful in reducing the daytime sun affect. We didn't see any recent cornice failures, or any recent avalanche activity. 

Exited via the Traditional Sherbrook Lake option skiing the slopes down Niles Creek in the early evening. Below 2300m, skiing was a bit more challenging as the crusts and temperature affected snow started to show up, but nothing too hairy.

Fast and easy exit from the south end of Sherbrook Lake back to the highway on the summer trail. 

Good trip all in.

 

Mike Trehearne

AG/ASG

Cloud Nine Guides

Trip Photos @ www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides

[MCR] Mt. Field

Up Mt. Field today. There have been numerous ascents recently with many
descent tracks in the steepest terrain. We observed a size 2+ cornice fall
off the east face off Wapta peak at around 9:30 AM due to sun effect. There
are still many sheltered lines on the N. facing sides of the gullies on the
upper 2/3 of the route. The lower 1/3 was crust in the AM and mushy by 1:00
PM on our descent. Overall, the danger was low.
Bradford White
IFMGA



_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Sorcerer and Ghost road

Attempted Sorcerer today and decided to call it a miss.  I had climbed it a little over a week ago and was aware of the looming cornice that Barry mentioned in an earlier post, but with the intense sun and warm temps, it felt less then comfortable to be climbing under it today.  We ran up the first two pitches, dodging the odd ice and snow chunk falling from the cliffs above, but the idea of a possible cornice failure, felt like too big of a gamble today.  The trail is a little circuitous in there, but trying to step out of it is NOT worth your energy right now, with deep snow from the last storm.

We made a small attempt to drive to Wicked Wanda but no other vehicles have been that way in a while and it felt like a lonely place to get stuck today.

The drive out was very, very wet and muddy, but doable still in a Forester.  

The rock climbing on south aspects would have been pretty darn good today!  Time to throw both climbing options in the car for ghost trips!

Sar

 

Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.sarahhueniken.com

---

[MCR] Evan Thomas climbs

 

I guided Moonlight and Chantilly today in Evan Thomas Creek and both were in good shape in the AM but melting fast by midday.  We gave Snowline a miss as the first 10 meters are melting out and the ice is brown. 

 

If you go, go early when the ice quality is best.  Moonlight and Snowline are in the sun until 1230 and Chantilly stays shaded all day.

 

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

 

[MCR] Roger's Pass, Connaught drainage - cont.

need to add that surface hoar to size 10mm+ observed widespread above 2000. wilted on solar aspects - no signs of complete obliteration. well preserved & growing on polar aspects. surface & near sfce facetting process continuing - up to 3mm in areas observed.

dave healey
acmg ski guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Roger's Pass, Connaught drainage

to add to Shawn King's post of yesterday, we had a pleasant ski up into the Bruin's Pass area of Connaught drainage. only 2 other parties were observed in the area; both in the far distance. a very quiet day.

weather:

- temps ranged from -4 (2500m @ 1500hrs) to +2 (1300m @ 1700hrs)
- mainly sunny throughout the day with minor cloud in the afternoon
- a light West wind in the afternoon, dead calm in the morning

we found good, dry snow on true East & North aspects above 2100m. good corn turns were enjoyed on a more Southerly aspect with a low angle - we did not try anything steeper. on the exit out of the area around 1600hrs, the corn had refrozen into a 2cm thick suncrust with moist snow underneath. as we approached aprox 1700m, the top 50-70cm of the snowpack was isothermal & gave poor support. survival 'turns' were the order of the day.

also of note:

- many solar releases (loose & wet) from rocks were observed from 1200hrs to 1600hrs, scrubbing the top 10-20cm in steep terrain. most were stopping top to middle of their run outs
- crevasses on the small glacier on the North side of Bruin's Pass are visible and snow bridges are sagging

there are still some lines to be found, both on polar (dry snow) & solar (good corn with proper timing) aspects. however, it will be easy to get 'pushed' into terrain with overhead hazard (steep slopes & cornices), crevasses issues, and other late season hazards if one is not careful & disciplined in their approach.

enjoy the holidays!

dave healey
acmg ski guide


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rogers Pass ski touring

We skied Perly Rock on Monday and Young's Peak yesterday under mostly clear skies both days.

 

Previous down flowing winds off the Illecillewaet had been enough to build variable windslab to 25cm thick on the approach slopes to Lookout Notch making the descent virtually unskiable.

 

Perly Rock provided decent snow with little wind effect.  

 

Solar aspects everywhere in the Pass now have been thoroughly cooked with a breakable crust.  Some folks had been getting turns in on the sun softened slopes of the Ravens too late in the day which resulted in 2 wet, loose snow avalanches.  Timing was everything as numerous large slides were ripping out of south and west slopes in the warm afternoons.

 

The convexity of the Dome Glacier was riddled with tracks forcing skiers further looker's right for fresh snow but note the steepness of terrain there and the large crevasse in the photo below.

 

The Seven Steps of Paradise were also seeing a lot of traffic with perhaps 40 tracks now.

 

Sluffing on this steep pitch was inevitable.  Note the far looker's left track caused sluffing that ran the length of the face and over a crevasse (along with a few ski tracks).

Late yesterday skiers dropped in to the unskied steeps even further left causing it to avalanche about 20m wide and scour the face uncovering the large rock seen above the crevasse.  

 

Great skiing to be found out there for sure but be mindful of aspect and time of day.  Good route selection is key to avoid getting pushed into more hazardous terrain in search of fresh snow.  Lots to be had out there if you keep your options open. 

 

Some impressive cornices and cornice debris to be found as well.  Heads up.

 

Cheers,

Shaun King  ACMG / UIAGM Mountain Guide

Mountain Sense Guiding & Instruction

www.mountainsense.ca 

www.facebook.com/mountainsense

 

[MCR] Nirvana Pass Pantheon Range Coast Mtns

Guided a group from a base camp at Nirvana Pass March 18-23. We were the first group in there this season. We skied the Siva Glacier, Astarte Glacier, Septentrion Glacier, Vishnu Glacier-Byamee Loop and Juno Basin . Conditions were still winter-like with temperatures below freezing throughout the day and the coldest morning being -17C. Good powder skiing on most aspects. A storm mid-week brought 20cms of new snow with some wind resulting in a natural avalanche cycle on northerly aspects. Coverage seemed a bit lower than I remember in the past, and ridges and moraines were wind stripped. The height of snow at the pass was about 200cm and 250-280cm on sheltered areas of the glaciers.

We dug down to water in one of the tributaries of Colwell creek near our camp. Wolverines were everywhere, but left our camp alone.

A great week with a fun group in an amazing location.

--

Craig Evanoff

ACMG Ski Guide
Dezaiko Lodge and  Alpine Adventures
info@dezaiko.com
www.dezaiko.com

--

Craig Evanoff
Dezaiko Lodge and  Alpine Adventures
info@dezaiko.com
www.dezaiko.com
250-962-5272
Box 2791 Prince George BC Canada V2N 4T6

 

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dezaiko-Alpine-Adventures/277417978983716

 

  

[MCR] Mt. Hector - Rockies - March 25th, 2013

Brad White and myself skied up Mt. Hector today, here is what we found:

Weather: Beautiful clear day with no wind on the summit.  -19 at the parking lot at 6:45 am, warming to-1 at 14:00.

Avalanche Activity: Evidence of solar induced natural activity on the large south facing slopes on Mt. Andromache that threaten the approach.  In addition, we saw a few cornice failures that occurred within the last 5 days.  One of them triggered a deep slab on Little Hector that was 1-1.5 m deep and ran well onto the toe of the glacier crossing the standard ski line. (see picture here).

Snowpack: Snow depths around treeline were 140 cm.  On the lower glacier there was 2-3 of snow, while on the final slopes to the summit, the depths varied from 50 to 100 cm's.  We had only one whumph in a thin spot around treeline, otherwise no obvious signs of instability (cracking, whumphing fresh avalanches) showing that the basal facets are slowly adjusting to the new load.  A 5-10cm thick sun crust on the lower approach slopes in the morning allowed us to feel confident in the stability there this morning.

Travel Conditions: Good skiing on facetted windslabs was found below 3100m.  Between 3400m and 3100m the snow was skiiable, but grabby.  Supportive snow the whole way with 5 -10 cm ski pen.

Great spring day in the Rockies!

Ian Jackson
ACMG Aspirant Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Wapta Traverse March 21-24

We completed the Wapta Traverse yesterday, via nights at Bow-Balfour-Scott Duncan. We climbed the north ridges of Olive and Lilliput along the way.

On March 21 there were recent large avalanches in the Bow Lake area. Driving back to Bow Lake March 24 we didn't see any activity that would have occurred in the previous 3 days. Lots of skiers all along the parkway yesterday.

On the icefields the snowpack depth seemed normal. 100-300 cm in moraine features and wind exposed glacier toes, and 300+ cm on more sheltered ice features. 

There had been some previous cornice and windslab activity to size 2. No deep releases.

Two recent icefalls on Balfour east face didn't trigger slab avalanches past where the ice impacted the slopes.

Crevasses in all areas were normal. We crossed a large bridge beside the uppermost rocks of the nunatak on the way to Balfour High Col.

The snowpack depth in the Sherbrooke valley seemed deeper than normal. 

Cornices were large everywhere.

Of note, temperatures were pretty cold for a "spring" ski tour. Lows of -18 to -25 in the mornings, on March 23 the high was -15. But bluebird skies, virtually no wind and good company more than made up for that.

Mark Klassen

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff-Lake Louise, Canada

[MCR] David Thompson/Icefields/Jasper

Sean Isaac and I instructed an Outward Bound Veterans Ice Course this past week on the David Thompson Corridor. SARS, Cline River Gallery, Two O'Clock are all fat and should climb well into April.

Saturday I guided the RHS of the Weeping Wall for the Mountain Skills Semester. Cold temps resulted in plenty of tension in the surface ice. Last week's sun effect has been covered with new ice. Screws seemed to be good. It was sunny but cold throughout the day. Puffies stayed on right to the parking lot.

Today I climbed Aussi Beau on Mt Klapperhorn across from Mt Robson w friends Kyle and Kendra. 200m of knee deep post holing got us to avalanche debris. Easy travel w crampons to the base of the route. Two great pitches of technical ice took reasonable protection. There is a cave at 50m w a v-thread. The climbed seemed to have little traffic although there was one old v-thread at 40m on the second pillar. Air temps were cool and the snow was still dry in the sun on the descent.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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[MCR] Wicked Wanda

Climbed Wicked Wanda in South Ghost today with a guest. Last couple days it snow between 25 to 30 cm, the snow is low density. We were the 1st and only vehicle in there. The only time I Used my chains was for the big hill on the way out, and we were glad to have them. I am sure with more traffic there will be no need for chains.

The snow is well below threshold for avalanches, but if there was wind, you could potentially find some wind loaded pockets in certain areas.

Five days ago I climbed wicked Wanda and used the bolted anchors on the last pitch on the left. But today I couldn't find them, they must be covered up by ice. We rapped off V-threads.

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com












_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Evening Ridge, White Queen, near Whitewater Ski Resort, Selkirk Mountains

Went for a ski tour today in the Evening Ridge and White Queen areas
near the Whitewater Ski Resort. I hiked up the south face then over the
top of Evening Ridge and skied down an east aspect (The Nose). I then
crossed Humming Bird Pass and went up the west ridge of White Queen.
Ski quality was excellent, enough carry to stay off the crust that
formed after the last Pineapple Express. Trail breaking, on the other
hand was a chore. My goal was the summit of White Queen, but I only
went half way. I ran out of steam and time due to the boot-top trail
breaking.

The ski quality on the run down the south face of White Queen was also
excellent. The sun made a brief appearance around 4PM which was long
enough to moisten the snow surface on exposed aspects even as high as
2000m. With the forecast warm, sunny weather on the way, I don't think
the skiing on the south aspects will be as good as it was today.

It was spooky not seeing any natural avalanche activity, even after all
the recent new snow. The Pineapple crust is apparently bridging the
lower weaknesses. It was up to 20cm thick on the aspects I poked around
on. I did though, experience a whumph from deep in the snow pack as I
was topping out on Evening Ridge. A sleeping Giant?

On my way down, I ski cut some smaller convex rolls to see how the snow
would react. The only reaction I got was some minor sluffing. The new
snow hasn't slabbed up enough yet for any propagation. Watch out for it
as it settles in the next few days.

The whumph I experienced indicated to me that there are still some
instabilities in the snow pack. I chose my lines conservatively, both
up and down, to avoid large, open slopes, convexities and gullies.
Without going big, I still had a great day of skiing.

Play safely out there,

Craig Hollinger
ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, Whiteman Falls, Redman Soars

I guided an ascent of Whiteman Falls today, March 21st. We skied in towing our packs on sleds. Good travel on the road this morning on a strong melt/freeze crust. A second party walked in on boot soles with minimal post holing.

We stepped over the open pool on top of the first approach pitch on climber's right. There is a good dry tool placement in a crack to help.

Whiteman Falls is in great shape. After climbing it we climbed to the crux of Redman Soars, but descended from there as the climb is in lean shape and suffering for quality due to a lack of ice (some chossier than normal passages).

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Murchison

> I climbed murchison today in a team of 3 on the left side and a team of two climbed the right side.
> The trail was blown in above treeline and required some knee deep post-holing to get to the base of the route.
> The route is mostly blue and not too Sun affected.
> There is a dagger and a cornice threatening the left side of the route, caution on a sunny day.
> We had a cloudy day with spin drift on the last pitch.
> Some of the v-threads were very melted out.
> We observed several ice avalanches from an active serac across the highway.
> We noticed that the mountains on the west side of the highway were considerably snowier than the east side.
> No avalanches observed at bow summit area, but a Na 2.0 slab, ran by the ice climb called political world, with dirt in the track.
> Not much new snow at the highway elevation, but lots of transport at ridge top.
>
> Happy spring :)
> Jen
> ACMG/IFMGA guida

[MCR] Cirque peak/ Observation pass /Skier Remote/ Banff Park.

We were back out today in the Observation and Cirque peak area up HWY 93 north.

 After a trip in the same area earlier in the week we had decided on being very conservative on all Solar aspects due to our lack of trust in the multiple crust and facet layers. Our suspicions of these aspect and layers were confirmed when from the exact spot that we had stood 2 days earlier, we managed to remote a healthy size 2.5/3.0 avalanche on a South-West aspect. 

We were travelling down the pass between Cirque and Sub-Observation peak and had stopped on a well supported 20-30 degree slope when heard a small settlement. To our slight amazement the large slope 100m to North (facing south west) failed down to the Persistent weak layers at the bottom of the snowpack. The Avalanche was around 200m wide, up to 175cm's deep and ran 250m down over the standard bench one might use to ascent to the col. 

I think it would be safe to say that any solar aspects or thin snowpack areas should be treated with the utmost resect at the present time. Right now it might not be good enough to not only be avoiding skiing on these slopes, but also highly cautious of being under any of these slopes as they could be triggered from below in areas where you may believe you are safe. 

Also of note there was much wind affect in most open areas above tree-line as well as some touchy wind slabs at ridge top. 

Play safe out there and have fun! Craig 

Craig McGee
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain guide
(403) 497-4211

[MCR] Rockies, The Sorcerer, Coire Dubh Integral

I guided an ascent of The Sorcerer yesterday, March 19th. The drive in was straight forward. An established trail is set into the climb and marked with lots of pink flagging tape from the second Johnston Lake into the creek that drains the route (the pink tape continues on towards Hydrophobia). The route is in fine shape, but there is a large cornice above it. I opted to anchor a couple of metres below the top-out bulge because I didn't want to belay right under the belly of the whale, too spooky.

Today I guided an ascent of Coire Dubh Integral. The ice is in good shape. We utilized the first two mixed pitches of The Doors of Perception. Last week"s snows have buried some of the bolted anchors and there are some small wind slabs which are bonding well to the old snow surface. Moderate to strong wind gusts drove us down into Jura Creek on descent. I have nothing positive to say about the snow leading down into Jura Creek, a tedious miix of multiple breakable crusts and small crotch deep slabs. Much more supportive melt/freeze crusts lower in the creek.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rogers Pass Cannaught Creek March 19

Some observations from - Cannaught Creek - Bruins -Balu Pass 
 
 
 Up to 50cm of storm snow over the March 15 SH.  Compression test Moderate(18)down 45cm Breaks, thin buried wind slab above.
 Very little settlement in upper snowpack from cold over night temps. 

February Surface Hoar is obvious Compression Test Hard(28) sudden shear down 75cm well settled snowpack above.
Calm to light Southerly winds. Some wind effect on low angle valley bottom fans.  
 
The day was clear and sunny with some solar affect below 2200m on direct south aspect slopes.
North aspect skiing was as good as it gets.  South was pretty good too.

 

Main conerns Isolated Soft slabs in alpine features, unsupported rolls, cornices and daytime warming

No whumping, cracking or reactivity from ski cuts. 

Avalanche Activity: 

1 size 2.5  Na Slab off of the side cliffs of Grizzly chute, South Aspect.  A corner of the slab wrapped into the chute..looked deep.
 
Lots of old debris piles from the recent torrent of warm events.  Frequent Flyer and most paths on Cheops have run well into the valley.
 
We'll see what tomorrow brings.
Merrie-Beth Board
ACMG Full Ski/Apprentice Alpine guide.
 
 

[MCR] Selkirk Mountains - Rogers Pass - Dome Glacier

Sunny day in the Pass today and lots of people( 20-30 cars in Asulkan parking lot) out and about taking advantage of the break in the recent stormy weather.

 

My destination today was the Dome glacier in Asulkan Brook.

 

Trail breaking was an honest 40-60cms ski penetration with minimal wind effect, limited to the exposed ridge crests where the dry loose snow was being blown about by moderate Southerly winds(more previous wind effect on Youngs Pk. area). Even though the wind had filled in both the up and down tracks on the ridge crest, by the time I had re-ascended, it was not really slabbing up the dry storm snow – more just moving it about. That said you may find some deep pillows on the immediate lee slopes where the wind has been blowing it in. There was moist snow evident whenever the terrain tipped to the south – so you may find a suncrust on steep solar aspects tomorrow (perhaps hidden by the forecasted snow).

 

Avalanche activity today was limited to some loose moist size one avalanches on steep solar aspects – of note was a large size 2.5 (or small size 3) that had run to Asulkan Brook. It ran down the first slide path from the Abbot side of the valley that you encounter on the way in. It looked to be quite recent (last 24hours for sure) with little new snow on the wet looking deposit. It appeared to have been triggered by a large cornice fall that triggered a fairly wide slab(100-200m.) on the rockface below it running down the confined gully to the creek.

 

Other than that the recent storm snow felt quite settled and there no significant shears or results from ski cuts.

 

By the way – the skiing was AMAZING!

 

The next forecasted storm system was already darkening the skies above the Monashees by the time I drove home.

 

Cheers,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

 

[MCR] Avalanche control, Mt. Bosworth, March 18th, 2013

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on Mt Bosworth along the Trans Canada Highway between Lake Louise and Field today, March 18th, 2013.

No climbing or skiing in these areas. Thank you for your cooperation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Commonwealth Creek and Tryst Lake

Back in Commonwealth Creek today doing a run on the Tryst Lake chutes and finally down to Commonwealth Creek via the first southern aspect avalanche chute,  which we entered well below the usual start zone. There was more snow than expected this morning with 25cm at valley bottom and up to 40cm at ridgeline – all sitting on a rain crust that is capping a layer of moist snow. Except for some sloughs and a small wind slab in the biggest of the Tryst Lake chutes we didn’t see any avalanches. Where we skied today the new snow was quite low density and hadn’t formed a slab, which made for excellent skiing with face shots (for the shorter members of our team anyways…..). Given the winds earlier in the day and likely overnight I suspect there are places (especially close to ridge line and in cross loaded features) where the new snow did form a slab and the bond to the rain crust would have to stand a harder test to skier triggering than what we experienced today. There was just a faint hint of sunshine at the very end of the day today. Temps were ranging from -13C to -6C which should preserve the good skiing quality for the time being.

 

Thanks to two jolly Park Wardens for setting a nice track to Tryst Ridge!      

 

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)

 

OnTop ltd.

www.ontopmountaineering.com

+1 403 678 2717 or 1-800-506-7177

[MCR] Observation sub peak area, Banff National Park, HWY 93 north.

Went out for a little traverse in the Sub Observation peak area today and found some interesting conditions.  We started the morning with an intense little blizzard that dropped upwards of 10 cm's of new snow on the 50+/- cm's that have already accumulated over the past week.  The snow tapered off with the arrival of the cold front in the early morning, but the winds contuniued blowing moderate, and at times gusting strong from the North for the rest of the day. 

With this shift in wind and lots of new snow to move around, most of the open areas above tree line were quickley becoming wind affected and we found many areas that we chose to avoid, especially more of the solar (East through West) aspects that apeared to be getting loaded quicker and had a buried sun crust.  We chose to stick to well supported terrain, ridges and areas with no overhead hazard, like all those new ripe looking cornices.  

Throughout the day we continued to see many signs that the snowpack was unstable. On the South-East side of Observation Peak a new cornice fall had produced a fresh size 2.5 avalanche that had steeped down 1m on what looked an old sun crust,  but what was more interesting was a really health size 2.5 that it triggerd sympathetically right beside it. This deeper slide looked closer to 1.5 to 2m deep and again likely on some old Cr. 

On our drive out we noticed that 2 South-West facing slopes west of Cirque peak had also avalanched size 2 naturally while we had been out on our tour, these slides looked like they had slid closer to the ground but still with crowns of around 1.5-2m. 

All in all it seemed like a great day to be mellow and take in the views.  Right now with the recent new load, strong reverse wind and strong solar affect on the snowpack, the deeper presistant weak layers that are harder to predict seem to be awake again in this area.  Eventually these will calm down, but for now I think it's a great time to play it safe and stick to standard routes and use extra caution on any solar aspects in this area. 

Have fun, 

Craig McGee
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
(403) 497-4211

[MCR] Avalanche Control, Mt Bourgeau and Eagle Paths, March 16th, 2013

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on Mt Bourgeau and the Eagle Paths along the Sunshine Village Road today, March 16th, 2013. Control will affect the ice climbs Bourgeau Left and Right. 

No climbing or skiing in these areas. Thank you for your cooperation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

[MCR] Wapta traverse rescue

For anyone doing the traverse in the next while, be advised that we are
dealing with a crevasse extrication between the Balfour High Col and Scott
Duncan Hut. You may run into helicopter operations and/or equipment left
in the area while we are dealing with this.

Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks
Parks Canada
220 Hawk Avenue, Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1401
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Haffner Creek Avalanches

-7 this morning and dry all day in Canmore, +2 with light but steady rainfall at the Haffner Creek trailhead. The rain has saturated the previously recrystallized snow causing it to loose whatever little cohesion it had. Consequently the snow started to slough off the relatively benign sidewalls above the canyon and came roaring down hitting one of the usually heavily frequented belay spots. In volume far from being capable of burying someone but  given the weight certainly enough to pummel and injure a belayer or causing major inconvenience to a lead climber……enough to make us pull out early today. It also made me think that there are quite a few ice climbs (Louise Falls, Weeping Wall…..) exposed to slopes or side walls that we don’t commonly consider as avalanche terrain but which could pose quite a risk for a climbing party in the current conditions until things cool down substantially.

 

Conditions-wise the usual ice flows are phat and fun to climb, most of the curtains that are part of the mixed climbs are becoming thin and short requiring quite a stretch to finish the routes.

 

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)

 

OnTop ltd.

www.ontopmountaineering.com

+1 403 678 2717 or 1-800-506-7177

[MCR] Rockies - Weeping Wall, Left Hand Route

Hey there,

Up 2 pitches to the belay on the Left Hand Route while guiding on the Weeping Wall yesterday. 1 other party on the Right Side when we arrived. Big change between overnight and daytime temps (16˚ change) had the route settling a lot while leading it, 1 fracture opening up at least an inch or so, midway up the 2nd pitch. Gave the last pitch a miss, as when the sun came around and hit the route all we could hear was the unpleasant sound of more frequent settlements and features collapsing underneath the thinner ice features.

Right side and the centre look like they're in a lot better shape.

Have a good one.

Mike Trehearne

Cloud Nine Guides

Trip Photos @ www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides

 

[MCR] Robertson Glacier - Kananaskis Country

Skiied the Robertson Glacier yesterday (Mar 11).
 
There is evidence of a fairly widespread avalanche cycle during last week's storm, but many start zones are now re-loaded. The entire area has been heavily affected by recent wind with pockets of sastrugi, hard slab and soft slab extending well below treeline. Ski quality was poor throughout, but trail breaking was generally easy and fast.

We found an average depth of 300cm on the glacier, but a few areas are scoured down to bare glacial ice. We carried a rope and crevasse rescue equipment. Last week I spent some time on the Haig and French Glaciers and they appeared well covered with 300+cm of snow depth.
 
 


Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety
http://www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety

[MCR] Experts Choice, Waterton, March 11, 2013

Just a heads up for anyone planning on ice climbing in Waterton over the next while. The Central Line on Experts Choice fell off some time during the night of March 10 after two days of warm temperatures and intense sunshine followed by a cool night.

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
Visitor Safety Technician

Waterton Lakes National Park

[MCR] avalanche accident report - Empire Hut, west of Kaslo

Hi everyone,

a good friend of mine was involved in a skier-triggered avalanche west of Kaslo near the Empire Hut and wanted for me to pass on the details so that others might avoid the same situation. 

Here are the details:

• occurrence: 0945 on Saturday, March 9
  
• location: Blue Ridge, above the Empire Hut (accessible by snowmobile via the Buchanan Forest Service Rd) - coordinates: N 51.03'08.0 by W 117.08'55.9''
• Avalanche size: estimated at 2-2.5 slab avalanche
  
• Avalanche trigger: 1 skier
• # involved: 1 person - ended up with a broken leg
• Aspect: S-SW
• Elevation 2260m
• Incline of the start zone: 38 degrees
• Depth at the crown: 40cm
• width at the widest section: approximately 250m
• length: approximately 200m
• suspected weak layer: surface hoar size 3-9mm lying over a crust (February 12th)

this has definitely been an active layer lately so stay safe out there and remember that if in doubt, your terrain choice will always make a difference.

Emily Grady

www.coldsmokeguiding.com
ACMG ASG / AHG
CAA Pro Member

[MCR] South Ghost Conditions

Climbed Anorexia Nervosa in the Ghost today.  The route is in good shape, just a bit thin at the top of the first pitch.  Second pitch is very fat and plastic, a bit sun bleached just at the very top. Withering Heights has withered.  

The driving was sporty today.  On the way in, just beyond the blue bridge there is a truck eating puddle which can be easily avoided by driving into the trees on the right.  We didn't drive past the berm into the south ghost.   The ice dam at the end of the berm is bumper deep on a Toyota Tacoma with steep ledges on both sides.  Beyond that into the South Ghost there are deep drifts.  

In general south facing climbs in the South Ghost are looking sun bleached. Wicked Wanda looks fat.

Lilla Molnar

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rockies - Nothing But The Breast

Hey again,

My guest, Barret and I, put in an ascent of Nothing But The Breast today. Never been up it prior to this, but a good climb in an awesome position. The two approach pitches are still in good shape with enough ice for screws on the short steep steps and v threads on the descent. Snow overlaying the ice on the low angle bits seems to be insulating the ice below and there's been minimal delamination as a result. The upper/last pitch was in good shape, sun affect having punched through about 5 or 10 cms of the surface ice, rotting things a bit, but still good gear throughout. A good WI 4 line weaves up the left side (a bit wet) currently, and a steeper WI4+ line climbs more sustained steeper ice right up the centre. We climbed both, both currently worth heading up for if you're here this week.
No concerns today re: snow overhead. Just a beautiful day climbing in the sun. 

The hot-tub at COE has also been in stellar shape... 104*F and holding. Worth a stop in if your up this way. 

Have a great evening!

Mike Trehearne
Cloud Nine Guides

Trip Photos @www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides 

[MCR] Super Bock - Field, Murchison

My guest and I enjoyed excellent conditions on Super Bock today March 10th.  We chose to hike in from the highway and there is still a couple of good ice bridges to make the crossing.

In the lower half of the gully we had easy travel on firm avalanche debris that came out the west facing(left hand) slopes sometime in the last week.  Above the little ice step the snowpack in the gully is very supportive and travel was quick.  We climbed a right hand line on the upper pitches and the ice was in good shape and we found good screw placements throughout.  This was my third time on the route in the last month and the last pitch seems to be getting steeper?  Or maybe I'm just getting tired.

We were off the climb by 130p.m.

 

Climbed Murchison yesterday and nothing has changed since Barry's post.  The sun's heat was strong yesterday and the climb is fully in the sun by 2p.m..  Be careful your screw placements don't melt out in the afternoon sun.

 

super bock

 

Murchison

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

www.facebook.com/RockiesIce

 

[MCR] Rockies: Commonweatlth Creek / Spray Lakes

A busy “picture book” day in Commonwealth Creek today with  a spring-like temperature spread from -18C when departing around 8.30 AM to +2C upon returning to the car around 3.30 PM. We did what I believe is called the “Little Commonwealth” or “Pig’s Back” Traverse on the northern aspect of the drainage which was travelled relatively lightly today. However a lot of traffic on the “Superslope” and the next avalanche path to the west (i.e. the southern aspect west of the Tryst Lake ridge). Judging from the looks of the tracks the snow must have still been pretty good on the southern aspect today. The other big avalanche paths further west (upstream) remained pretty much untouched which was probably a good idea given recent wind loading at ridgeline and the warm temps.

 

Generally good “boot top” powder skiing on northerly aspects. Recent avalanche activity was limited to solar triggered sluffs in rocky terrain or point releases except on the drive from Canmore we saw several large fracture lines in steep, rocky easterly  terrain in the Goat Range. North-Westerly winds picked up around noon with intense wind transport limited to ridge line. We also noticed large cornices threatening some of the “money lines”  in the area and I can’t help but noticing that it’s often the days with the large temperature spreads that bring them down…..

 

Have a great rest of the weekend!   

 

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA

OnTop ltd.

www.ontopmountaineering.com

 

[MCR] Rockies - Polar Circus, Cline River Gallery

Hey there,

Guided an attempt on Polar Circus Yesterday (Friday) that saw us within 2 pitches of the top.
The route was in good shape, and had minimal sun affect up to our high point.
Our goal was to be up and off the route before any daytime solar affect kicked in. Even with an alpine start, I was surprised at both the early timing and intensity of the radiation yesterday. Hence the reason for pulling the pin.
Most of the walking between pitches was on well set up avalanche debris (from recent control work) which made things quick, the exception being the snow slopes as you turn the pencil.
The lower tier of snow, pounded by the recent avalanches, was free of instability. The snow slope which turns back left to gain the upper pitches though, still has a large slab overlaying a faceted basal layer which didn't run during the last cycle. Felt good crossing when it was cold early on, but spooky on the way down with things warming up.
Still a ton of snow on the rock slabs overtop the lower half of of the route that are also going to run into the climbing line as things heat up.
If you're goin' for it, go fast and get it while its cold.

Cline River Gallery was great today too, in its usual shape with a fun WI5 line on climbers left of the main flow. Some hooky stuff, and some fresh lines to play on too. Good times all in.

Off to find something out of the heat for tomorrow... Enjoy the rest of the weekend!


Mike Trehearne
Cloud Nine Guides Inc.

Trip Photos @ www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies, Step Right Up

I instructed at Step Right Up today. A good trail leading in to the climb. The climb is much narrower than in past years. Glassy cold ice in the morning and plastic slushy stuff in the afternoon. Two new rap bolts on climber's left hand rock wall at the top. A spring day in there today.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Weeping Pillar

Fellow guide Jean Gamilovskij and I climbed the Central Pillar to the Weeping Pillar today 7 March. With warmer temps, the March sun is taking its toll. Sun affected ice throughout making good gear often challenging to find. The route climbed well with good sticks in the soft ice.

Of note, after 1300h the cliffs bands around the Upper Weeping Wall were producing significant sluffs. Keep your heads up out there this weekend.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies, Weeping Wall RH and Murchison Falls

I guided an ascent of the Weeping Wall Right Hand on March 6th. The route is in great shape and we continued up to the Upper Weeping Wall opening up the trail up there for the first time since the last snow storm. The first pitch of Tear Drop (the line of least resistance up a corner on climber's left) has poor and rotten ice for your right tool and foot on it's steepest part. We rappelled from one pitch up. Another party climbed one pitch up climber's right at the same time and reported decent ice there.

Yesterday, March 7th, I guided Murchison Falls opening the trail after the last snows there too. Not as much snow in this area. The route is huge and there was little to no trace of other recent ascents.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Fang and Fist - North Ghost

I guided Fang and Fist today March 7th – one of my favourite Ghost classics.  There was approximately 15cms of new snow in the area from the last storm cycle.  This seems to have fallen with very little wind, which kept the snow drifting to a minimum on the access roads heading into the Ghost and leading to the head of Claw Creek.  There is still a few sections with deeper ruts and the new snow has made the driving more challenging.   I doubt you'll get your subaru in there right now.

 

The climb itself was in great shape and all 3 pillars are a steal for the grade right now.

 

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com

[MCR] Lineham Falls, Waterton, March 6, 2013

I guided an ascent of Lineham Falls today with Stan and Jen. Fairly easy trail breaking on skis up to the base of the climb with 10-20cm of new snow. (Snowshoes may not be great right now due to the side hilling on buried sun crust on the initial section of the trail) We climbed the Left Hand Route on Lineham which was in good shape with good protection throughout and allows for a variety of line choices from WI 3-4+.

The snow slopes above and below the climb showed no weaknesses of concern at this point, but were obviously sluffing a lot in this last storm cycle.

 

Observed a few natural avalanches out of steep solar aspects up to size 2 in the last 48hrs running on the buried sun crust and some sluffing out of steep terrain.

"The Shining" also appears to be in good shape when viewed from the trail.

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.banffmountainguides.com/

[MCR] Quick and Dirty and Experts Choice, Waterton, March 4-5, 2013

Our crew decided to move down to Waterton after a couple days of climbing in the Ghost along with Joe McKay.

Climbed on Quick and Dirty, French Kiss and Le Pillar des Putains yesterday. Generally the ice is in good shape however the top pitch of French Kiss has some thin ice and bare rock spots as a result of the warm spell a few days ago.

Broke trail into Experts Choice today and guided the first 25m of the Left Side, then over to the upper two pitches of the Middle Route to make a nice three pitch WI4+ line. The ice is in very good shape with good protection throughout. The first pitch of the Middle Route has a settlement crack in it but still appears to be quite solid. The Right Side looks fully formed and in good shape as well. Got rid of a couple large icicles hanging over the Left Side while rappelling. Should be reasonable to climb under the remaining lip of ice unless it gets really hot out.

Of note Upper Waterton Lake froze last night for the first time this season, not thick enough to travel on but kind of neat to see!

 

--

Conrad Janzen

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff Mountain Guides