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Wednesday, October 31, 2012

[MCR] Snowpack NE of Revelstoke

Hello everybody

Today (October 31) I flew together with Nicoline and Eric Dafoe to the Durrand Glacier area, 45 km NE of Revelstoke BC, to check the early snowpack. At tree-line, 1946 m elevation, we observed a snowpack of 85cm to 105cm and at 2150 m elevation 120cm to 130cm. While skiing the snowpack felt well settled and consistent. A snow-profile at tree-line showed mostly round grains for most of the snow-pack. 30cm to 40cm down a 2cm graupel layer with 1mm grains, near the ground mixed grains and at the ground a few facets of 0.5mm have been observed. With the present mild temperatures at tree-line and in the lower alpine this early snow-pack has good potential to form into a perfect base. Of-course the final saying lays with the weather, mostly for the next two weeks. In the afternoon we also skied a run, enjoyed the first turns of the winter and definitely got inspired for a great ski season.

Enjoy the start of the 2012/13 ski season

Ruedi Beglinger
I.F.M.G.A. / A.C.M.G Mountain Guide
info@selkirkexperience.com

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQErjBceci0

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Monday, October 29, 2012

[MCR] Rae Glacier Highwood Pass Kananaskis

Hello,

Sunday and today (oct28&29) I skied Rae Glacier in the Highwood Pass area of
Kananaskis Country.

We were able to put skis on at the parking lot (1970m) where there was
8-10cm of snow.

Average snow depth on the glacier was 55cm. This snow has been heavily wind
affected. At 2750m we found: 40cm thick wind slab over a 1cm crust over 10cm
of facets (loose, sugar-like snow grains)
All this was overlaying Neve (Neve is last years snow that survived the
summer)

Temp: +2 at 14:30 at 1970m. It was snowing 2cm/hour when we left the
parking lot but quickly changed to rain by the time we reached king creek
(1700m)

Great to be back on skis!!

Neil Warren
ACMG Ski Guide

www.alpinethreadworks.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Connaught Creek / Balu Pass now open

Please note that the Connaught Creek drainage to Balu Pass, which had been
closed due to grizzly bear activity, is now open.

Sylvia Forest
Specialist, Mountain Safety Programs
Mt. Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

Friday, October 26, 2012

[MCR] Wapta Conditions

Flew over Bow Hut and the Wapta on Thursday Oct 25. No one had been up
since the recent snow, but conditions looked quite good on the Icefields.
The crevasses are pretty covered, but a rope is still advised as the
bridges are surely thin and fragile. The approach would be arduous with
likely tough walking and not much skiing, however there was about 40cm of
snow at 2600m. and little if any wind effect(See attached file: Wapta Oct
25 2012.jpg)
Brad White
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Lodging & Food at HML

Hi Everyone,

Due to the fact that Glacier Park Lodge is now closed, Great Canadian Heli-Skiing & Heather Mountain Lodge are considering opening early for the winter season to help accommodate skiers looking for lodging & food.

At this point we are just trying to see if there would be enough interest from the public for us to go ahead with an opening in late November. If you think that you may be interested in this offering (from late November to the end of December) please contact info@heathermountainlodge.com and let us know.


Thanks!



Gregory Golovach
Head of Operations
Great Canadian Heliskiing       
(Cell) 403-760-0182
(Fax) 403-762-4018



[MCR] Conditions in Glacier National Park

Hi Folks,

As the season is slowly evolving here in Glacier presently there is 20cm's at 1300 meters and 60cm's at 1900 meters.  Although things might appear to be looking wintery - conditions for skiing are not favourable by any stretch of the imagination just yet.  Team members from Avalanche Control Services reported marginal (at best) conditions at Fidelity (1905 meters) yesterday with ground hazards just starting to get buried only at treeline.  Below treeline would be certifiably horrendous.

We would advise patience until we get a sufficient amount of snow that has a chance to settle.  We are still quite some time out before it is even worth consideration.  Valley bottom to treeline trails are exceptionally rocky.  So sliding even on the Balu trail would be quite sporty at the moment.

Precipitation is on the way this week.

Photos of NRC and Fidelity attached below.

Take Care,

Paddy Jerome
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@pc.gc.ca






Monday, October 22, 2012

[MCR] Loose hangers Playground

Hey everyone,
Likely not a big news flash, but since the snow has started to fall, and the ice hasn't formed yet, many people have been heading up to the Playground to get a start on the season.  I haven't been up there in a bit, but some people have written me asking me to spread the word on loose hangers.  No surprise, but it seems like there are a ton of bolts that have hangers that can spin full rotations, and even come off and bonk belayers in the head!  A potential hazard to all!  Maybe, if folks go up there, take the time to pack a wrench and bring it up on the climbs with you.  
A great area that is getting a ton of use!  Play safe:)
Sar
 
Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.sarahhueniken.com


Friday, October 19, 2012

[MCR] Mt Cline, David Thompson Country



Wrapped up the summer season over the last 3 days with a trip into the SW ridge via Thompson Creek.  

Winter seemed to arrive above 2000 meters Monday evening with about 10cms of new snow and persistent moderate to strong winds from the north.  This weather pattern continued for the rest of our trip and when we hiked out Wednesday afternoon there was an average of 15-20cms on the ground above 2100 meters with drifts up to 60cms deep.  There were windslabs up to 15cms thick on all aspects but we didn't see any natural activity.  

It is definitely "game on" in the alpine for winter hazards and careful stability analysis is crucial, especially in gullies or above terrain traps.  Ski googles are a very smart tool to have in your pack these days.

Have fun!



Mike Stuart
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
T: @CdnAlpineGuides











Thursday, October 18, 2012

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 18, 2012


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 18, 2012

Winter is slowly encroaching on the peaks and valleys in both the Columbia and Rocky Mountains.

In the Rockies there is a skiff of snow as low as 2000 m in shaded areas, although on sunny aspects snow line is higher. The further west one goes the more snow there is.

In the Columbias there are reports that there was 20-30 cm of snow at treeline in western areas. There is a significant precipitation event occurring in the Columbias again today with predictions of another 20 cm accumulating at treeline.

That all said, even Scott Davis has not been on his skis so sliding season doesn't seem to be here yet.

For activities, there have been occasional afternoons when low elevation rock climbing has been pleasant and mountain biking in the valleys is dry and fast. There have been no reports of climbable ice.

Observations from alpine climbers show that conditions are a bit hit and miss. Get it on one of the nice days and the climbing is good on classic snow and ice objectives, and on some gully and mixed lines. Go out on one of the days where the peaks are clagged with some wind and precip and chances are you are going to get hammered, especially on any feature where spindrift will be an issue. The Big Hose on the South Howser was successfully climbed on a nice day last week by one party, the next day another party attempted it in poorer weather and was inundated with spindrift, which necessitated a tactical retreat.

For hazards expect the normal autumn issues - poorly bridged crevasses, the aforementioned spindrift, short days with winter-like temperatures at high elevations and almost certainly windslabs on smooth, upper elevation lee slopes.

So time your adventures well to take advantage of brief weather windows, and start waxing those skis and sharpening those picks - winter is around the corner.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] AUTO: Bradford White is waterskiing (returning 19/10/2012)

I am out of the office until 19/10/2012.




Note: This is an automated response to your message "[MCR] Tunnel Mountain
- The Shoe" sent on 18/10/2012 8:59:33 AM.

This is the only notification you will receive while this person is away.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Revelstoke, we can still climb

Hello Everybody

Well, winter is in the mountains and the snow-line is well below tree-line. Temperatures are at the cooler side and the moist air hanging out in the valleys makes climbing rather difficult. Yesterday I climbed on the Victor Lake Wall. Warm temperatures and try rock on the upper part of the wall. We walked the descent trail to the top of the Victor Lake Wall and rappelled from the top of the wall into several routes, climbing the top few pitches in the warm radiation of the sun. While standing or hanging on the belay, doing my job, my eyes and mind kept escaping into the snow covered slopes and glaciers of Mt.English, looking forward to the arriving winter and al this inspiring powder-turns. Anyway, if you still wish to climb some warm rock, then this can be found in larger walls with southerly aspects. In the Revelstoke area the Victor Lake Wall and the Columbia Buttress are great for this type of climbing until late October.

Enjoy the last days on the rock, skiing is here soon.
Ruedi Beglinger
A.C.M.G I.F.M.G.A. Mountain Guide
www.selkirkexperience.com
info@selkirkexperience.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Tunnel Mountain - The Shoe

Hello,
 
We will be using the route the Shoe on Tunnel Mt all day today. There will be fixed lines on the route and it would be good to avoid.
 
The route has been seriously cleaned and there is still a fair amount of dust and dirt on it. I would give it until next spring to let the weather clean it up.
 
Thanks,
 
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
UIAGM/ACMG Mountain Guide

Saturday, October 13, 2012

[MCR] Columbia Icefields


Spent the week at the Icefields teaching a mountaineering course and found generally good conditions overall.  

The snow and wind from last week has made travel better below 2700 meters as the footing is more secure over the glacial ice and was only boot top deep at best.  Above this elevation windslabs are a growing concern on N and E aspects and there were areas with up to 60cms of foot penetration.  Glacier travel is becoming a bit more challenging as the new snow is starting to hide the crevasses so prudent travel techniques and a ski pole for probing are valuable tools right now.

As of yesterday there was no snow at the Icefields campground but that may be changing currently and it officially closes in the next few days.  There is no water available from the normal tap as a pipe broke last week from cold temperatures so we were getting it from the Icefields centre.

All of the ice faces looked just that..icy and grey, blown snow free from strong winds.  The big mixed routes (A Strain, Grand Central, etc) looked to be lacking ice in places where you would want it but that was from a fair distance away.

   Have fun!

Matt Peter
Darek Glowacki
Mike Stuart
ACMG Guides

CanadianAlpineGuides.com


Friday, October 12, 2012

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 12, 2012


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 12, 2012

The extended Indian Summer that we all have been enjoying came to a halt this week with cooler temperatures and fresh snow at upper elevations. Most areas in the Rockies and Rogers Pass are reporting the snow-line at around the tree-line elevation. On south aspects it is more of a dusting, but north aspects (especially along the divide) are looking pretty white.

The forecast for the weekend is showery with valley bottom lows near zero and highs in the low to mid teens.
It is a safe bet to assume that there will be pockets of wind slab on the higher peaks along the divide. The Columbia Icefields reported good fall climbing conditions with most of the ice faces showing bare ice (having been blown free of snow from recent strong winds). Anybody venturing into the high alpine (especially on glaciated terrain) should be prepared to make avalanche hazard assessment decisions. For example guides avoided the North Ramp Route on Athabasca due to wind slab conditions.

Boot top trail-breaking on the glaciers can be expected. Be cautious with glacier travel as the recent snow will be hiding the crevasses but not providing much bridging strength.

Once the weather settles down the alpine mixed season should be coming into shape, but early season waterfall ice climbing is probably still a couple of weeks from being in. Ski season? Check your enthusiasm, it is still only October.

Brian Webster
ACMG Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

[MCR] Tunnel Mt - The Shoe

Hello,
 
We will be doing some cleaning on the route the "The Shoe" on Tunnel Mountain in Banff tomorrow through Saturday (Oct 11-13). Please avoid the area for climbing on these days.
 
Thank you,
 
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
UIAGM/ACMG Mountain Guide

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

[MCR] Closures in Yamnuska area

Two closures will occur in the Yamnuska and Yamnuska Bluffs areas due to blasting operations at the Lafarge Quarry on the following dates:
 
Closure 1: Tuesday Oct 9 from 10pm until Wednesday Oct 10 at approximately midday.
 
Closure 2: Tuesday Oct 16 from 10pm until Wednesday Oct 17 at 5pm.
 
Times are subject to change. All activities are restricted in this area during the closure.
 
Thank you for your cooperation.

Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety

Sunday, October 7, 2012

[MCR] Revelstoke, new route on Victorl Lake Wall

Hello everybody

One week ago I climbed together with Cam Molder, Manuela Arnold and Eric Dafoe a new route on the Victor Lake Wall, 14.4 km west of Revelstoke, directly above the lake and the Trans Canada Highway. The route offered all clean climbing on good rock. It is mostly bolted (ground up) but several sections need gear placements. 10 pitches, 5.10c, gear cams 0.5 to 2 inches, 5 shoulder size slings and single 70 m or double 60 m ropes. After the climb easy walk off back down to the highway, 30 minutes. 

Conditions in Revelstoke are perfect for longer rock routes on south facing walls. Cold nights and great temperatures during the day. I usually start the climbs at 09:00 AM and enjoy the warm radiation of the autumn sun. It is still great to be out there every day ......

Enjoy climbing
Ruedi Beglinger
I.F.M.G.A. / A.C.M.G Mountain Guide
info@selkirkexperience.com
www.selkirkexperience.com


[MCR] Robson S face oct 6th.

Climbed the S face of Robson yesterday from the Forster hut and descended to the highway. Long day that!

Trail is in good but really bushy shape. Route below the hut through the final headwall seems a little better than the one on the old topo and gets more sun(snow free quicker)

Hut is kinda sad and the outhouse is all out/no house. We left a canister stove, fuel, booties and two sheets to cover the rat chewed mattresses at the hut. There is dishes, pots, cutlery and mattresses. Not much else. It could use some love/work.

Icefalls on the S face are really nasty these days. it has been about 10 years for me and the ice threatening the route to Little Robson and the Schwarz ledges seems to have really advanced in a negative and scary way.

Approx 20-40cm snow from the Hut up depending on wind effect. Schwarz ledges had around 20cm dense snow that made for mercifully fast travelling. We climbed up and down the ridge beside the Great Couloir and exited between 2 gargoyles onto the summit plateau. Only windslabs were on the last gentle 50m to the summit.

Lots of nice looking ice runnels forming in the alpine quartzite south of Jasper this morning. Things seem much drier and leaner on the big classics mixed routes around the Columbia Icefields.

Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

Wednesday, October 3, 2012

[MCR] Garibaldi North East Face

Just got back from a two day trip up to the Summit of Mt. Garibaldi via the North East face from Brohm Ridge. Last night there was strong north winds, and at camp this morning at 6:00am it was -8c. The 2140m camp at the end of the moraine that connects to Brohm Ridge, still has running water in the evening.  Having a tent in a stratovolcano dust storm last night was a bonus. Travel on the now rock hard snow that took ok ice screws,  made for fast travel on strong crevasse bridges and railway spike bomber snow pickets.  Crevasses and Burgschrunds are quite the zig sagging maze right now on the NE route.  We enjoyed no wind at 0c on the summit for an hour with hot coffee and soup. There is a T slot picket with some cord left behind to rappel over the schrund on the way down.  By 300pm the snow-ice only softened up on the top 1cm where there was direct sunlight.  Max temp of +5c at 2140m.  No rock or ice falls observed. With the forecast of cool sunny weather for the next week, it is still a great time to get into the mountains!  
Play safe. 

Crosby Johnston  
IFMGA / ACMG Mountain Guide  
Altus Mountain Guides
www.altusmountainguides.com
cell: 1 778 266 0022 

NE Face Photos

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