[MCR] Snowpack update for Glacier/Purcell's/Yoho

February 28th, 2014

Hello

I have been guiding and poking around in quite a few areas within the vicinity of Golden this week.   

Looking at the snowpack and how the Feb 10th layer is healing.

I've been as far West as Bostock creek in Glacier park.  In this area, the February 10th layer is producing no result or at the far end of hard results.  It is down about 90-120cm's.  At tree line and below I have looked on all but North aspects.

Around the Info centre at Roger's Pass, the results have been consistently the same.  Hard results, 

similar depth, same aspects.

Around the  Selkirk's, this layer is starting to bond.  There is also evidence of aggressive ski tracks in bigger alpine features I have noticed, that also back up this theory….. Things are healing.  I not sure about the North aspect though.

On the East side of Glacier, I was skiing in the vicinity of the East side of Mount Tupper. I dug twice around tree line on South and East aspects.  Test results where similar to the other areas West, in Glacier.  But, the difference in this area is significant evidence of wind effect on the upper snowpack.  The upper snowpack felt hallow and funky.  With numerous density changes in the upper 50 cm's.  This produced moderate snow pit test results.   The wind effect is related to the cold temperatures we've experienced to the East.   The McDonald weather station info this week, backs this up.

Around the Purcell's (Golden) and Emerald Lake (Yoho) the February 10th layer is producing test results on the easier side of moderate, with a sudden collapse character.  The depth of this layer varies around 40-70 cm's.  I have had a lot of whumpfing in these area's, this week.  Looking at the pit wall, the February 10th interface is completely obvious.  There's little bond happening on this layer, unlike on the central and west side of Glacier.  

Because of the cold weather on the Eastern side of the Columbia's and the Rockies, this layer has not had a chance to properly heal.  There is still a very good chance of skier triggered avalanches.

East of the Selkirk's, I have no confidence in any big alpine/tree line terrain. Which hasn't previously been skied to moguls... For the matter, I still have no confidence in any big, steep, terrain anywhere around here….No matter how much I dig.

Be careful around the Western Rockies and Purcell's this weekend.

Jonny Simms                             

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

1(604)815-9225

Golden, BC

http://jonnysimms.com

[MCR] Crowfoot Glacier - Rockies

Skied with two friends to the Crowfoot Glacier today (AKA Ferris Glacier across from Bow Hut).  Of note is that once across Bow Lake, there is extensive flood ice (way more than usual).  This is not so much a problem at the end of the day, but it required a bit of a detour along the south edge in the morning to avoid getting skis and skins wet.  The Bow Canyon is well filled in and easy travelling.  Once in the moraines and on the glacier, there was little wind effect and skiing quality was very good.  There are the usual rock hazards in the moraines.  There was no evidence of recent ski traffic around Bow Hut and from a distance, it looked like ski quality in that area of the Wapta would be OK.  The forecasted deep freeze will likely keep people at bay for a few days yet.

 

We kept to lower angle terrain (below 30 degrees) and had numerous whumpfing in the moraines and on the glacier that we suspect is on the Feb 10 interface.  There was natural activity up to size 2 in the Jimmy Simpson area on sun exposed aspects in thin rocky areas that we suspect is from the past 24 hours.

 

Marc Ledwidge

MG

 

via

Peter Tucker
Executive Director
B: +1.403.949.3587
M: +1.403.689.4324
ed@acmg.ca  |  www.acmg.ca

 

[MCR] Coastal Ice

Spent the last 4 days ice climbing.

Feb 23: Honeyman Falls open water on the climbers left side good lines on the right. 

Feb 24: Marble Canyon climbed the Deeping Wall and 1st pitch of Icy BC, fat conditions.

Feb 25: The Ramble left and centre good conditions, plastic ice.

Feb 26: Cal-Cheak: Get off the Couch is still in but melting quickly.

Mat Valade

ACMG/IFMGA MG

driftwoodadventures.com

[MCR] SARS on ice - Cougar in area

Hello,

 

 

Wanted to get this info out sooner but I was out of cell and email coverage until now.

 

I guided a small group at 'SARS on Ice' in the David Thompson area on February 22nd.  On the hike out we ran into a large cougar, which ran up a tree 150m in front of us, in the direction we were travelling.  We walked right underneath it, snapping one quick picture along the way. What an amazing experience.

 

Even though the feline may have moved on from the area, just wanted to give everyone a heads up.

 

 

The ice at SARS was in good shape.

 

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com

 

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Coquihalla February 25, 2014

The Ministry of Transportation will be conducting helicopter explosives control on Tuesday, February 25. The Coquihalla will be closed from 9:00am-1:00pm between Hope and Merritt. Please do not ski/snowshoe on slopes facing the highway. Examples of some, but not all areas that we may do control in are: Yak/Nak/Thar area, Markor N Slide path (Lunch Run) and Two Bears. See attached google images for closure areas (Red Polygons).

Please do not park at the Zopkios Sand Shed or Box Canyon South Bound Pull Out. If you are planning to head to the Coquihalla check DriveBC for updated road closure times. Areas that we will not be doing explosives control in are Needle Ridge/Bowl, Zoa, Falls Lake, Coq Lakes Ridge (Toll Booth) and Ottomite/Iago.

When you return to your vehicle, take the time to ensure the highway is open. If you do not see numerous vehicles go by in a five minute span, the road is still closed. Stay in the parking area until you see that traffic has resumed.

Thanks for your co-operation, play safe.

Paul Harwood
Avalanche Technician
BC MoTI North Cascades Program

[MCR] Johnston Canyon.

Climbed at Johnston today.
Temperatures were colder than in the previous days (-16).

By the end of the day the ice was starting to crack in places. I noticed no failures but I might give the pillars a fair amount of respectful space this weekend.

The trail is icy. My guest had those yak trax grip things for the walk. I had a smirk...by the return to the car.. I thought I would likely purchase a pair.


Patrick Delaney
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Sunshine and Malignant Mushroom

Adam R. and I climbed both routes today.  They have recovered from the warms temps and sun from a couple weeks ago.  Both routes are in good shape with good protection throughout.

 

The drive in is getting easier by the day as the snow settles and we saw 2 Subarus make the trip into the south ghost.

 

1 cm of snow accumulation and snowing lightly when we drove off at 3pm.

 

 

Malignant

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

 

[MCR] Weeping Pillar/tierdrop and Rainbow Serpent

The last couple days I climbed with a guest the weeping pillar and Rainbow Serpent.    They are both in relatively good shape for their given grade.   There is some nasty daggers on the weeping pillar, it was cloudy and cool when we climbed it, but if the sun was out it wouldn't be a great place to be.   Rainbow Serpent has funky large mushroom that you need to climb in, around and out, however the gear was excellent on the 1st pitch, but had to work hard to get good screws on the second pitch.

Marco Delesalle

 Mountain Guide

www.greatdividemountaineering.com

nigel-weeping pillar

 

Rainbow Serpent - Nigel

 

[MCR] Evan Thomas & KHC ice climbs

Yesterday 140219

Climbed: 2 low for Zero, Snow line an moonlight.

The approach was fine, no open creek yet. But that could change quick with warm temps. 

Fresh Cougar tracks the road section.

Climbs: 2 low and snow line are drying up. There are two sections on 2 low with many screw holes in small pilar features. I used a threaded sling to avoid adding more holes.

Snow line is well pocketed (shallow) bad bolts exposed down low and there was no "V" thread at top of lower section.

Moonlight is fat.

Today 140220:

climbed Asylum near Golden (except last ice pitch too wet).

The approach: We traversed over from the Riverdale approach, much more sheltered options than straight up the gully. 

We climbed the route via the following variation approach pitches:

http://gripped.com/routes/asylum-kicking-horse-canyon/

There is a large buried winds slab, down 20 to 40cm. It covers the base of the start described above. It's possible to avoid the slab on the far right.

We however chose to climb an appealing pitch a bit out of the way down and left.

It climbed a yellow ice mixed corner but lowered awkwardly with a short travers to the single bolt described in the article. 

We climbed pitch 1 as described and combined pitch 2 and 3.

Bring old blades cause you have to swing into turf and mud. 

Our climb was completely snow covered and it requires focus. The bolts were hard to find and the climbing is on hard near quartzite rock. It protects well and likely easier if free I snow. But should be avoided if warm the mud and turf won't take the tools and will vanish otherwise.

The first ascent line looks doable but would be really snowy after the first 50m

The first upper ice pitch was lens covered in slightly overhanging mushrooms. The gear was reasonable but is was still reasonably cold. It was harder than it looked.

The upper crux is typical of the period, sport bolted with many close bolts.

Of note: the start is scruffy and muddy and not very appealing. The anchor could be hidden soon, it's currently at your feet.

The last bolt, the one at the end of the roof is really loose. 

When the feet get thin near the lip stay low find the "creative" foot hold down and left.

Once on the ice pull a small ice roof and down climb a body length into a cave with a bolted belay, cool place.

Two rap options exist. One goes through a worm hole.

Lots of snow overall. Not much sun affect on any of the ice routes a far as I could see.

Would not want to be approaching any of the lines in warmer temps than today. There was no snow balling or clumping but it has a bit cloudy at times and remained reasonably cold.

However, on the steep rock, by the end of the day, the approach pitches were wet and did not look frozen at all.

Cheers

Patrick Delaney

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Special Public Avalanche Warning

The CAC has issued a Special Public Avalanche Warning for most regions, which will be in effect until next week. You can access the SPAW using this url: http://www.avalanche.ca/uploads/SPAW/SPAW%20Feb%2020.pdf or by clicking the link on any of our website’s pages (www.avalanche.ca/cac).

 

This is a tricky time and it will require some real heads-up thinking to steer clear of trouble for the next while. Everyone’s hungry for the powder right now and if we get sunny, blue-sky conditions as forecast in the next few days, it will take a lot of patience and discipline to manage risk. There’s a few posts on our Forecaster and South Rockies blogs at  http://blogs.avalanche.ca/ where we discuss the situation and offer advice for staying safe.

 

Our conditions summaries and long-range outlooks are on the blog site as well and help provide some context.

 

Stay safe.

 

Karl Klassen – Manager, Public Avalanche Warning Service

Canadian Avalanche Centre kklassen@avalanche.ca

 

[MCR] Monashees

We ski toured in the Monashees just north and south of Revelstoke the past five days. We were on north and east aspects above the Perry River, Craigellachie Creek and the Columbia River, at skiing elevations of 800-2000 m.

In general there is about 75 cm of recent storm snow on top of surface hoar, which was on top of a few cm of facets, which was on top of surface hoar (which was on top of a thin sun crust on solar aspects) and this all was on top of a thicker layer of even weaker facetted snow.

We had lots of whumpfing and some cracking while skiing. Our compression tests showed variable results though with some easy failures and some tests with no failure at all.

Regardless, we didn't trust this instability at all and stayed on small slopes below treeline, mostly around 30 degrees or less (I was measuring them sometimes with my inclinometer!), and with no overhead hazard.

We still had plenty of fun powder turns though, the skiing is great right now!

Mark Klassen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Ghost ice conditions

Made back to back trips into the Ghost yesterday and today with my guests.

 

Some observations:

 

- No new snow

-winds were moderate at valley bottom both days and strong at ridge top

-temps were between –8c and 0c

-blue bridge crossing is as easy as it gets – no open water pools in sight

- fairly easy 4x4ing through the rutted drifts at 'Stumpland' with a stock Toyota 4Runner

- good dry ice conditions and beaten in trails to  Anorexia Nervosa, Weathering Heights, and Wicked Wanda

 

 

Wicked Wanda

 

Weathering Heights

 

Anorexia Nervosa

 

Courtesy headlight cleaning by the 'Stumpland horse pack' on the drive in

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

 

[MCR] Crowfoot Glades, Southern Rockies

Hi all,

We had a very pleasant day ski touring in the Crowfoot glades today. There was close to 15cm of low density & evenly distributed overnight snow in this area. We had glimpses of blue skies with temperatures ranging from -7C to -10C and generally light winds where we skied. Alpine winds were strong from the west and there was quite a bit of snow transport up high. We skied moderately steep supported terrain (<38deg.) between 2200m and 1900m elevation. The snowpack was supportive and the ski quality excellent.

The average snowpack height at tree line elevation was 165cm. We observed some whumpfing and cracking mostly at treeline. We didn't see or triggered any new slab avalanches but did see evidence of a cycle in the last 48 hours on the steeper alpine slopes above the tree apron. These slides ranges from size 1.5 to 2.5 and by the looks of things likely fell on the February 10th layer. There was ongoing spindrift on steep rock faces all day.  

A quick snow profile at 2100m on a northeast aspect showed a moderate shear with sudden collapse characteristics down 70cm. This was definitely the February 10th layer; we found some old surface hoar and weak faceted grains there.

All in all a great venue despite the current touchy conditions!

Cheers,

David Lussier
ACMG Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com

[MCR] extremely large avalanche near Fernie

I have just received a report of an extremely large avalanche in the Fernie area. No details yet but preliminary information indicates it ran through mature, old growth cedar--trees that are likely 200 years old--then up the other side of the valley.

We have been seeing a gradual increase in cohesion in the storm snow over the last few days while the layer below that's creating such havoc throughout western Canada remains relatively weak with poor bonds to the snow above. In my experience this is the first indication of a classic shift from high frequency but smaller storm related avalanches to a persistent avalanche problem that will produce fewer but increasingly large avalanches over an extended period of time. 

This is a situation that often catches people by surprise; the reduced frequency gives the impression that things are getting better when in fact, it's just changing from the storm snow avalanche phase of a cycle to a persistent avalanche phase, which is a much more complex problem and one that's much harder to deal with in terms of risk management and decision making.

In my opinion, this event near Fernie is indicative of evolving conditions throughout the western Canadian ranges and it's probable that we'll see this kind of occurrence in all regions in the coming days.

We will provide more information if/when it becomes available. Keep an eye on the forecaster blog and south rockies blog at: http://blogs.avalanche.ca/ and the new forecasts that will come out this afternoon at: www.avalanche.ca/cac

Karl Klassen - Manager, Public Avalanche Warning Service

Canadian Avalanche Centre, kklassen@avalanche.ca

[MCR] Monahsee Mtns - Mt. Macpherson Fingers Feb.18/2014

Went for an afternoon sprint up the bottom of the “Fingers” on Mt. Macpherson.

 

Weather became increasingly snowy in the afternoon with a steady 2 cms an hour and a -2 at the parking lot at the end of the day ( and still snowing in town at 8pm) – also gusty winds, even in this sheltered below treeline location (must have been even more so up high).

 

The uptrack is well placed and minimizes any exposure to the main paths as you ascend – lots of room for tracks close to the boundaries so no need to stick your neck out too far even skiing down J!

 

The early Feb. interface is down 80 to 100cms in this area and consists of 10 cm thick layer of weak snow (4 finger to 1 finger resistance facets) – the slab above is gaining strength and making it more difficult to initiate things in moderate terrain ( no Whumpfing today)– however that same strength makes for a potentially larger event when things do fail.

 

Incline and shape are more important than ever – I didn’t climb too high and was sticking to lower angled terrain (25-30degrees) and avoided any steep overhead slopes or steeper convex features.

 

My plan for the winter is to keep it humble and not try to out think this atypical snowpack – the ski quality is good but don’t let the “White Siren” tempt you where you know you shouldn’t go.

 

Cheers from Revy,

 

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Yoho & Kootenay National Parks - Feb. 19th, 2014

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control tomorrow on Mt. Bosworth, Stephen and Field in Yoho National Parks and Mt. Whymper in Kootenay National Park. Please no outdoor activities in these areas tomorrow February 19th, 2014. Thanks for your cooperation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca  
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Coire dubh

Climbed the integral route of Coire Dubh today with two guests.

Good ice, both on the lower route and in mixed sections leading up to the saddle.
There are many variations and to attempt describing the line we climbed would be futile.
However tracks indicate that it's been a busy place, several options have been climbed.

There is not that much for snow, at least none available for transport.

All the snow has undergone some level of slabbing. We released 3 small picnic table sized hard slabs 20 to 40cm thick.
None were remote or accidental and all of them were isolated and released while I was well protected by our rope system.

There had been a large scale cycle on the face in the not so distant past.

Currently, I'm certain there are still isolated slabs that could be triggered
and plenty of hard surfaces ready to receive new snow. But all in all, despite the general hazard trend most of the slabs had released at least in part or have started breaking down into facets.

The main usual large slab leading up to the base of the last ice pitch of the lower route is very strong.

We played it a bit safer than other parties by working the terrain a bit more but to be honest I don't think it's going anywhere at the moment. Might be a different story in the spring when water starts to lubricate the bed surface.

patrick delaney
Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Evan Thomas Ice

Went to Evan Thomas Creek / Kananaskis yesterday. About 5 cm of new snow
there in the morning with strong westerly winds. There were parties on all
three most commonly climbed lines Moonshine, Snowline and 2 low for 0. As
usual, the latter two looked ok higher up but require short screws for the
first 20 meters or so. Moonshine is in good shape with the belay cave after
the first pitch being well accessible. The ensuing crux is maybe a tad more
sustained than usual (WI4+). Most surprising was how cold the ice still was
in spite of the warm temps lately, especially on the last pitch, where we
managed to send down some junks the size of microwaves.

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA
 
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
+1 403 678 2717 or 1-800-506-7177

[MCR] Louise Falls

Fellow Yamnuska guide Carl Johnston and I guided Louise Falls today.

It was a busy holiday Monday with 6 guided teams and 2 recreational parties.

P1 and P2 climb well on wet plastic ice. It's is still possible to traverse behind the pillar. The left side of the pillar (P3) is very wet unconsolidated chandelier ice that is steep and difficult to protect. The right side is still climbing well. It has flowed and healed; the first party up experienced fresh ice. P4 is very hooked out and dry.

About 5cm fresh snow in the parking lot this am.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
www.peakstratagem.com

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Avalanche control Parker Ridge area - Icefields Parkway

Please be advised that Parks Canada MAY be conducting avalanche control in
the Parker Ridge area tomorrow, Feb. 17, between 12:00 and 18:00. Climbing
and skiing will not be impacted (all areas still open) but through traffic
can expect intermittent closures of up to 2 hours between the bottom of
Nigel hill and the Parker Ridge trailhead.

Control actions are weather dependent at this point and may occur
throughout the week. For the most up to date information on road
conditions and road closures travellers can contact Jasper's National
Park's Road Report Information line at 780-852-3311, check the Road
Conditions Report on our website at www.pc.gc.ca or check Alberta's
Official Road Reports at www.511.alberta.ca.



Visitor Safety | Sécurité Publique
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper

Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Southern Purcell avalanche observations

Guiding in the Southern Purcell mountains east of Kaslo, in the Powder Creek headwaters.  On arrival Saturday Feb15th, 55cm of storm snow overlied the variety of weak snow surface crystals formed by the extended drought. Although there was widespreading whumphing felt Saturday, the was little recent avalanche activity.   

 

On Sunday Feb16th, we received 30cm overnight with strong westerly winds.  The skies cleared and revealed a widespread Natural avalanche cycle to size three, with numerous crowns 80-cm deep.

[MCR] Avalanche control Feb.15

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control Feb.15 at the following locations:

 

1) Sunshine Village Road

2) Vermillion Crossing avalanche paths, Hwy 93 South in Kootenay National Park. 

 

Please no outdoor activities in these areas.

 

Thank you for your cooperation.

 

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks. 

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Coquihalla February 15, 2014

The Ministry of Transportation will be conducting helicopter explosives control on Saturday, February 15. The Coquihalla will be closed from 7:00am-11:00am between Hope and Merritt. Please do not ski/snowshoe in slopes facing the highway. Examples of some, but not all areas that we may do control in are: Yak/Nak/Thar area, Markor N slide path (Lunch Run) and Two Bears. See attached google images for closure areas (Red Polygons).

Please do not park at the Zopkios Sand Shed or Box Canyon South Bound Pull Out as we will be staging from there. If you are planning to head to the Coquihalla on Saturday, check DriveBC for updated road closure times. Areas that we will not be doing explosives control in are Needle Ridge/Bowl, Zoa, Falls Lake, Coq Lakes Ridge (Toll Booth) and Ottomite/Iago.

When you return to your vehicle, take the time to ensure the highway is open. If you do not see numerous vehicles go by in a five minute span, the road is still closed. Stay in the parking area until you see that traffic has resumed.

Conditions will likely be touchy out there, be careful.
 
Paul Harwood

Avalanche Technician

BC MoTI North Cascades Program

[MCR] CAC Mobile upgrade

The CAC’s app “CAC Mobile” was recently upgraded. Previously you could only look at forecasts. Now there is the added capability of submitting and sharing information. You can take a photo and write a brief text message then submit it. Your submission is automatically displayed on an interactive map where you can view other submissions. In short, it’s a way to quickly share information with the CAC forecasters and other users of the app and visualize that information geographically. You can learn more here:

 

http://www.avalanche.ca/cac/pre-trip-planning/observer-network

 

We are now planning the next phase of development which will allow for sharing and visualization of more detailed technical information about weather, snowpack, and avalanche activity. We hope to begin development of the next upgrade this spring with the aim of launching it for next season.

 

Karl Klassen – Manager, Public Avalanche Warning Service

Canadian Avalanche Centre kklassen@avalanche.ca

 

[MCR] Hankin (Bulkley Valley) 12 February 14

On a short trip on Hankin Peak this afternoon, I noticed moderate wind
transport from the W. I saw no recent avalanches on this NW to NE
aspect. There is about 25 cm of recent snow below treeline and about 15
above treeline where it is wind affected. I dug a pit on a ridge near
1600 m, which is well above treeline here. 17 cm of recent 4F snow were
on top of a facetted, but fairly hard snowpack of only 93 cm in this
ridgetop location. The storm snow sheared off easily and suddenly on the
facets below with a tilt test. We skied a short 38 degree bowl which had
some wind effect, but nothing propagated. I think that there is not
enough load and cohesion yet in the new snow to make significant slabs.
That could change quickly when and if the temperatures rise and we get
more snow.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
CAA Professional Member
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Junk yards/ grassy lakes

Conducted a program at the junkyards today,

Currently, the ice climbing area below grassy lakes known as the "junkyards"(both lower and upper), has a significantly greater amount of slip hazard, much greater than the average year. Based on my last 12 years of regular use (multiple times a month), I find that there is far more ice linking typical ice climbing sections. Where snow is usually dominant, where one usually walks on turf, or loose soil covered by crusty and faceted sugar snow, ice flows are now the current dominant surface.
It is possible for an unropped and unbelayed climber to fall long distances and accelerate to alarming speeds in many areas. Some of the zones would be deadly!

Also, there are several surface streams running on top of the ice in a few sections, likely pushed to the top from the recent cold snap.

Thirdly, there is a few good looking pillars, right of the large falls visible from the parking area. The upper main falls nearly look climbable but are still heavily undercut, several large ice avalanche have been observed in the past two days. There is enough big volume to likely reach the area just above the small pump house shack near the trail.
The track is all ice, with some big debris in places. The whole area occasionally used for low angle ice practice could easily to be considered under avalanche hazard. Not worth the risk i think.
I would not attempt to climb the pillars or walk below the pillars in the obvious path left of the approach trail I described above.

However right of the pillars is a large flow that currently looks quite reasonable to climb. However, their stability might deteriorate if the temperatures keep warming up.

Finally, plenty of low angle ice flows hidden by the recent warm sticky storm snow are waiting for unsuspecting hikers.
Hikers that usually cut steep icy sections of trail because of inappropriate footwear are currently also at an elevated risk of loosing footing, sliding and falling over cliffs or impacting trees. It would currently be difficult for inexperienced people to anticipate or see some icy sections.

Cheers
Patrick Delaney
Alpineguide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Yoho Ice Climbs

Recreational day in Field. We climbed Coal Miner's Daughter and Bubble Wrap Blues BEFORE the sun came out.

Notes:

10cms of fresh on top of temperature crust. Right now, not slabbed, but loose and ready for transport.

Snow mushrooms were failing in the afternoon with rising temps. They are basically ice given the past weeks of warm temps. Caution is advised anywhere there are snow mushrooms overhead.

Brittle ice today with new ice flowing over snow creating lensing, something we haven't seen much of yet this season, given the lack of snow.

Brent Peters

Alpine Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

www.peakstratagem.com

[MCR] Rockies-Lake O'Hara Feb 10th, 2014

Couple of notes from Lake O'Hara.

The ice climb "Girls Day Out" is in. "Sad and Beautiful World" is there but would have a scrawny start on low angle ice. "Cool Water, Good Stone" is almost all stone. Falls across the lake are full of ice.

The, I believe, unclimbed waterfall ice line on the west face of Hungabee is as big as I have ever seen it and the face above also has more ice than usual and not much snow.

Lefroy west face is DRY-no skiing there for a long time yet I assume.

And for those of a Nordic inclination, all 11km of the road should be well track set for all of February and March for classic and skate skiing.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, Rogan's Gully

My fellow guide, Carl Johnston, and I guided Rogan's Gully today. Bullet proof ice in the morning, pleasant temps in the sun on the way down at 2 pm. A large avalanche (not recent) has filled the gully chock-a-block full of snow making for good cramponing, but less ice climbing in The Narrows. Look for fresh, fresh new anchors on the sidewalls.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies, Johnston Canyon

My fellow guide, Carl Johnston, and I instructed, and guided, ice climbing in Johnston Canyon yesterday, Feb 6 th. Of note were 4 walking folk standing taking pictures of each other in the icicle drop zone after the sun had come out. "All those ice blocks around your feet came from up above!" I shouted, "You are standing in a dangerous place!" "Thank you!" came the reply and ten seconds later there was the tearing of ice as a refrigerator sized column sheared and plummeted towards them. "RUN! Run! Run!" I bellowed, and one of the four did while the other three watched the chunks and cloud descend upon them. Luckily no one was hit.

Arctic cold and sun, keep a weary eye on the daggers.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iThingy
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Revelstoke ice climbing

Today I guided a multi-pitch ice climb above Lake Revelstoke, a couple of hundred meters south of Waterworld (the summer climbing area). We found generally good conditions, with some brittle ice in places compared with an ascent earlier in the week. This climb branches 3/4 of the way up, and the right-hand finish (with the chain anchor on top for rappelling) is not formed. However, the left-hand finish is in good shape (photo attached).

Temperatures here have been milder than the Rockies recently, but still cold enough that many of the ice climbs around Revelstoke are in reasonable condition. The travel at valley bottom is currently excellent without skis or snowshoes, so it is a good time to ice climb here until the next snowfall.

Alex Geary
ACMG Ski Guide & Apprentice Alpine Guide

[MCR] Kicking Horse Canyon climbs - Golden

Temperatures near Golden today were quite mild compared to the Bow Valley. It was -24 at the parking area for the Kicking Horse River climbs today at 10:30am and warmed to -16 in the afternoon.
There was a moderate frigid wind from the east while approaching the climbs, which fortunately disappeared once you were on the routes.

Essondale and Riverview stay in the sun until about 3pm but the bottom of Pretty Nuts gets shade starting at noon. The ice is bulletproof. Not really brittle, just as hard as waterfall ice can get. It takes full body weight to place a screw. Hopefully it will soften with the forecasted slightly warmer temperatures and more sun.

Lilla Molnar
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Dream On, Rockies Front Range

Despite the car thermometer reading -37 C during the drive this morning, we had surrpisingly very warm climbing temperatures on Dream On (in the Ya-Ha-Tinda area of the Front Ranges) due to a combination of its direct south exposure, no clouds and no wind. If we were missing any one of those three criteria, it surely wouldn't have been very user friendly conditions. The route sees sun between 11am and 2pm, which helped soften the ice and keep screaming barfies at bay. Having said that, the ice on the WI4 second pitch was funky due to being previously sun baked and now cryogenically super cooled. It is also important to note that the climb is remote with no cell coverage at the route or the parking or for most of the drive, so keep that in mind  if something was to go wrong, especially in these very low temps.

Sean Isaac

ACMG Alpine Guide

sean@seanisaac.com

[MCR] Selkirks, Roger's Pass

we skied the Little Sifton traverse today under mainly sunny skies & cool temps.

temps ranged from -20 in the Visitor Centre parking lot to -10 on Grizzly shoulder. winds were light from the North East with the occasional moderate gust. wind chill on the descent down the Hermit side was enough to give us all frost nip. climbing up the Grizzly side with the sun for company was quite pleasant.

dry settled powder was found under the trees on the climb at lower elevations, but open areas higher in elevation have heavy solar effect, with areas of crust over 10cm thick. we elected to cut new trail as the main one is steep, rounded & rock hard. i strongly recommend using ski crampons if one elects to use the main path. travel conditions improved once above treeline & and non-solar aspects. wind has redistributed any new snow into 5-10cm thick soft slabs. we observed minor cracking (1m or less) under ski while cutting trail.

descent down the Hermit side was agreeable, with wind press & soft slab covering old ski tracks - of which there are many. these have yet to facet out (in the cold temps) to something softer than speed bumps. of note was a recent cornice release from the ridge on skier's right that ran a considerable distance thru the ski lines, terminating near the middle of the main avalanche track running from the Hermit meadows. size of the chunks were at least sofa sized, if not bigger. at lower elevation there was less evidence of new snow and areas appeared as though they were in a ski resort, with moguls starting to form! it's been busy back there… and with the clear weather forecasted the next several days not much will change.

cheers,

dave healey
acmg ski guide
revelstoke, bc
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Polar Circus - lower half

My guest and I enjoyed comfortable temperatures climbing in the sun on the lower half of Polar Circus today.  We climbed to just below The Pencil and retreated.

Temperature was –28c, winds were calm, and the sky was clear when we left the car at 1045am. The ice was cold, hard, and brittle.

 

The lower pitches come into the sun at 1145am at this time of year.

 

No avalanches observed.

 

Kristopher Irwin – Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com

 

[MCR] Experts Choice - Waterton

Hello,

 

My guest and I enjoyed climbing in the sun on 'Experts Choice – Left hand line' in Waterton on Saturday February 1st.

 

We found challenging climbing conditions in the first 15 meters of this route.  There is a newly formed layer of thin ice covering the old sun/wind rotted ice underneath.  Lots of fracturing of the new ice, hollow tool placements, and tricky to find protection.  Good ice from the top of that section on.

 

The entire left side is in the sun by 1130 at this time of year.

 

There was at least 3 parties on Quick and Dirty and French Kiss

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – Alpine Guide

www.rockies-ice.com