[MCR] Rockies: Sunshine slack country / Twin Cairns

The ACC North Face crew spent the last day of our course in the Sunshine slack country. After all the avalanche activity we had see in the last 24 – 48 hours we decided not to push the terrain.

As we reported earlier the height of the snowpack was about 100cm but there is a lot of variability with many areas with as little as 70 – 80cm. Lots of cracking and whumpfing just about everywhere we travelled. Limited visibility during the day so no new activity to report.

Once again we used conservative terrain both up and down. We ascended Twin Cairns via the back side and worked the terrain to reduce our avalanche exposure to essentially zero. Broke trail to both summits on foot. Cornices along the ridge are still not huge but we gave them a good wide berth anyway. Wind was picking up along the summit ridge during the short time we spent up there. We stayed well clear of runout zones the entire day.

The ski down the back side was excellent with boot top powder. On several runs we encountered occasional weak spots which collapsed while descending giving several folks the opportunity to test the snowpack using the “head penetration” technique. Cranial penetration was 50 – 75cm. We did not ski the Wawa Bowl or Repeater ridge areas but stayed on terrain less than 25 degrees instead.

Skiing out on the groomers was pretty darn good even at the end of the day...

Cyril Shokoples MG
Matt Reynolds MG
ACC TNF Crew: J St-Pierre, F. Mulvenna, J. MacDonald, G. Miller, N. Steiner, Manouane, W. Strong, A. Revill, H. Davidson, S. Lambert

[MCR] Rockies: Crowfoot Glades and Helen Shoulder

Two groups from the ACC TNF crew were out on Crowfoot Glades and Helen Shoulder today.

General Avalanche Observations: Numerous slab avalanches observed on Crowfoot Peak, Jimmy Simpson, Bow Peak and Dolomite Peak today, all from the last 24 hours. We estimate that we saw over 30 slabs out in our two groups today from our vantage points. Sizes ranged from size 1 to 3 with the biggest being the four major slide paths on Dolomite Peak running to valley bottom and starting from high in the start zones. Slab depth was generally about 40cm with some deeper. Some smaller slabs seen at treeline in some surprising places. Many larger slabs were in steep features and on moraines. It would generally be a bad time to jump into any significant sized features.

A cornice failure off Crowfoot falling onto the Crowfoot Glacier was witnessed at 14:30. Both groups travelling experienced whumpfing during the day with some cracking and evidence of soft slab formation. Some cracks travelled far though the terrain.

Snow pack on Crowfoot was about 150cm while on Helen Shoulder it was a bit over 100cm. Ski penetration was typically 30 to 50 cm. Occasionally you would sink to ground in weak spots around boulders and trees.

Both groups used conservative terrain on both up and down tracks with good group management. Terrain skied in the open was generally not in excess of 25 degrees and we pretty much avoided any avalanche terrain and overhead exposure. Despite this the ski quality was excellent.

Matt Reynolds MG
Cyril Shokoples MG
ACC TNF Crew: J St-Pierre, F. Mulvenna, J. MacDonald, G. Miller, N. Steiner, Manouane, W. Strong, A. Revill, H. Davidson, S. Lambert

[MCR] Rockies Avalanche Observations

Hello Everyone,

 

I toured with a group today up the S. ridge of Dolomite peak. At treeline I was feeling and hearing settlements, I chose a conservative up track, on the way up I remote triggered 1 sz 2 avalanche which was 45 cm deep and failed on facets, it ran to the top of the run out zone about 100-125m and was 45 m wide. 

 

On our ski down we skied on the ridge proper and remote triggered 1 sz 1, which appeared to be on the same layer. Both avalanches were in the 2250-2300m zone.

 

Of note at 3:30 we witnessed a sz 2 on Bow peak, a bit surprising as there was no wind or sun effect I would also rule out skier triggered given the terrain and time of day. Many large natural sluffs and up to sz 2's observed on all aspects in the storm snow.

 

Have fun and be cautious out there this weekend!

 

Jeff Bullock

 

[MCR] notable avalanche event

Avalanche Canada has received a report of what appears to be a very large, significant avalanche event near McBride in the North Rockies. Details are sparse but we do know that it was human triggered and people are involved. There are layers of concern in the snowpack in many parts of this region (and others) and a fairly significant weather event added rain and snow to the snowpack over the last few days followed by clearing and cooling today. This may have produced stresses in the snowpack capable of producing large avalanches and this condition could take several days to settle and bond. Please be cautious this weekend. Check www.avalanche.ca  or forecasts and blogs—we’ll provide additional information when we have it. Use the Mountain Information Network to provide information to Avalanche Canada forecasters and other users. If you have specific information about the incident or conditions near McBride, please contact me directly.

 

Karl Klassen, Avalanche Canada

Public Avalanche Warning Service Manager

kklassen@avalanche.ca

250-814-8981

[MCR] Mountain Information Network

Avalanche Canada’s Mountain Information Network has recently undergone a major upgrade. You can learn more here:  http://www.avalanche.ca/mountain-information-network where there are a couple of videos and an FAQ document. In short,

·         The MIN now allows exchange of much more detailed data about avalanches, weather, and snowpack observations.

·          Incident reports are supported.

·         The data is displayed on our map at www.avalanche.ca and can be filtered by report type and date range.

·          The system is free of charge, open to all, and works anywhere in the world.

 

Please send comments, questions, or suggestions to

Karl Klassen, Avalanche Canada

Public Avalanche Warning Service Manager

kklassen@avalanche.ca, 250-814-8981

[MCR] Rockies: Twin Cairns, Observation Peak

The Alpine Club's North Face Leadership Course has been touring in the Rockies near Sunshine and north of Lake Louise in the last few days. Here are a few of our observations:

January 26 (Tuesday) Twin Cairns – via Healy Creek to Sunshine
Healy Creek Trail well packed as expected. Typical snow depth once we started breaking trail in the 1 meter range. Ski penetration at and below treeline varied from 20 to 40 cm. Snowpack Treeline and below was generally faceted although somewhat supportive in flatter terrain. In open areas at and above treeline wind affect varied from soft to hard slabs. Snow depth extremely variable where wind affected. Cracking, whumpfing and hollow sounds noted on N and E aspects in open areas circa 15:30. Group turned before completing the final 200m of ascent in low visibility due to snowpack concerns and ski quality issues (crap!) Great shred down the groomers at Sunshine to the ski out. (Thanks Sunshine!!!)

January 27 (Wednesday) - Natural avalanche observed above Bow Summit  size 1.5 / suspect slab / 2600m / E aspect. Natural avalanche observed on Observation Peak (not previously reported) Size 1.5 / suspect slab / SW asp in extreme terrain / 2700 or 2800m / stop in middle of track above treeline.

January 28 (Thursday) - Icefields Parkway - driving toward Parker Ridge we encountered rain north of Bow Summit at an elevation of below 1800m. Driving conditions quite icy. Abandoned plans at Saskatchewan Crossing and went back to Bow Summit area.

January 28 (Thursday)- Observation Peak – Snowing at 1 to 2 cm per hour most of the day. Visibility was variable. Anticipated winds did not really materialize except for a brief period of light with occasional moderate gusts. Snow accumulation during the day was 10 – 15 cm. Travel below treeline was fair with ski penetration of 30 – 40 cm. Once again height of snow was in the 85 cm range down low and up to 120cm in wind affected areas in the open near 2500m on a West aspect. Once above treeline snow distribution was variable. Group did numerous compression and extended column tests at 2500m with variable results... Extended column tests produced fractures with no propagation down 15 – 25cm in the first 10 to 20 taps. Compression tests produced both resistant and sudden planar failures in the same range. One anomalous result occurred in a Shovel Test moderate down 65cm on Surface Hoar size 2 – 3mm. This was a very clean sudden shear. We did not venture on to open slopes exposed to overhead hazard in the alpine. Good ski quality with the new snow. Ski penetration occasionally “punchy” as your tails dipped into the weak facets. Used terrain conservatively skiing treeline features and below up to 25 degrees.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Matt Reynolds MG
ACC TNF Crew: J St-Pierre, F. Mulvenna, J. MacDonald, G. Miller, N. Steiner, Manouane, W. Strong, A. Revill, H. Davidson, S. Lambert

[MCR] Ghost - Orient Point - Hidden Dragon and others

Climbed in the Orient Point area of the Ghost today (Jan 27) under warm and windy conditions (+7 degrees when we returned to the trucks this afternoon).

The TransAlta Road is slippery and has a few drifts in the usual spots, but these were all easily passable today. From the bottom of the Big Hill the driving to the South Ghost is pretty straightforward. 

The approach ice in the creek bed is fat and blue.

Hidden Dragon has not filled out as much as usual on the climber's left side, but there is lots of ice giving good climbing on a number of lines ranging from WI3 to 4.

The Joker looks a little gray and thin, but is certainly climbable.

The Hooker is not in.

Candle Stick Maker looks pretty good, but we didn't go up to the base so cannot be certain that the pillar at the very start of the route is climbable. It looks a little bit small at the start (see photo).

Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety

[MCR] Planned avalanche control, Kootenay National Park, January 25, 2016

Parks Canada is planning avalanche control on Mts. Whymper, Wardle and the Simpson slide paths in Kootenay National Park along Highway 93 S on January 25, 2016. 

Please no climbing, skiing or other activities in these areas Monday. 

Expect short traffic delays as road closures are held during control work. 

Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Yoho National Park, January 23, 2016

Parks Canada will be doing avalanche control on the highway avalanche paths on Mt. Bosworth, Mt. Stephen, Mt Field and Mt Dennis tomorrow (Saturday, January 23, 2016).

No climbing or skiing in these areas tomorrow please.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Special Public Avalanche Warning

Special Public Avalanche Warning for Much of BC’s Mountainous Regions

Avalanche Canada is issuing a Special Public Avalanche Warning for recreational backcountry users from

Friday January 22 to Monday January 25.

 

The warning applies to the NW Coast and South Coast Inland, as well as the following central interior

mountain regions—Cariboos, North Columbia, South Columbia, Purcells, Kootenay-Boundary and the

Lizard/Flathead region. Glacier National Park is also issuing a public warning today.

 

Snow storms across the province have buried a weak layer that is particularly prevalent at lower

elevations. However, due to the amount of new snow, all elevation bands are potentially hazardous,

explains James Floyer, Avalanche Canada’s Forecasting Program Supervisor.

“We’ve had a relatively stable snowpack up to this point but things have changed now,” says Floyer.

“We urge all recreational backcountry users to recognize this shift and to exercise more caution. Staying

safe in the backcountry this weekend requires selecting simple, low-angled terrain, even when you’re at

lower elevations below treeline.”

 

For up-to-date information check the daily forecasts at www.avalanche.ca and Avalanche Canada’s

Mountain Information Network. Every person in a backcountry party needs to wear an avalanche

transceiver in transmit mode and carry a probe and a shovel in their pack. Ensure all equipment is well

maintained and in good working order. Avalanche training and practice in using rescue equipment is

essential to ensure a fast and efficient response in case of an emergency.

 

via

 

Peter Tucker
Executive Director
B: +1.403.949.3587
M: +1.403.689.4324
ed@acmg.ca  |  www.acmg.ca

 

[MCR] Rockies: Field back road closed, Thursday, January 21, 2016

Due to concerns about natural avalanches hitting the Field back road off Mt Dennis with the forecasted precipitation and increased winds on Friday, Parks Canada has closed this road to vehicle traffic until further notice.

Avalanche control is not currently planned for Friday, because of the forecasted poor weather, so the ice climbs around Mt Dennis are not currently closed.

We expect to do avalanche control on Mt Dennis on Saturday and will send out updates on avalanche closures at that point.

The avalanche control signs in the area will also be flipped to say "Avalanche Control in Progress - No access" once we confirm when avalanche control will occur. See the attached photo for an example of these signs.

Visitor Safety

Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Avalanche control Mt. Bourgeau Jan 21.

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on Mt. Bourgeau(Sunshine Village access road) on Jan. 21 (Thursday).  Please no climbing/skiing, etc. on Mt. Bourgeau during that day. This mainly effects the ice climbs Bourgeau Right and Left.

Please note that Parks Canada does not directly do avalanche control on these climbs, but adjacent slopes. They are closed in case avalanches go larger than expected and step across to these climbs.

 

Thanks for your cooperation.

 

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Hokkaido and Hakuba Ski Information

Konichiwa!  To anyone who is heading to Japan I wanted to share some general information on the ski resorts and backcountry policies as I was able to interpret them.   I just spent a month in Japan skiing, mastering the art of the Japanese Onsen (hot spring), sampling fine food and then skiing some more. 

Avalanche 'Control' in ski resorts

There is little if any avalanche 'control' conducted at ski resorts in Japan comparable to what we are used to in Canada.  Most ski hills do not open avalanche terrain and try to manage avalanche hazard by preventing people from being exposed to the risk.  If you leave the organized piste to ski trees or open bowls there will likely have been NO avalanche control.   E.g. We encountered touchy soft slab conditions where a small - otherwise low hazard avalanche - could sweep a skier into an open creek.  And we also skied (and at times avoided) large aggressive terrain immediately adjacent to resorts where we were responsible for making all of our own hazard assessments.

Accessing the back-country from Ski Resorts

The Japanese have very strict rules around skiing only where you are supposed to ski.  They have established groomed runs and for the most part - you are not allowed to duck rope-lines to ski trees adjacent to the runs or ski below the gondola.  If you do - you may encounter unmarked cliffs, open creeks and uncontrolled slopes where a small avalanche can sweep you into such obstacles.  And - you may lose your pass for the day / season if a ski-patrol gets upset.  

However, many resorts are developing policies to open up the back-country and off piste areas.and these rules change rapidly.  Each resort seems to have a different policy and set of procedures.  One resort had changed its policies in the 2 weeks we skied there.  I will try to outline what I have learned below.  In all cases - skiing with Avalanche rescue gear (Beacon / Shovel / Probe) and also a creek / cliff rescue rope is essential.  If in doubt about the policy - try to find an english speaking staff to help explain it.  

General Hazard / Snow and Avalanche conditions

Although locals claim there is a lower than normal snow levels we found incredible ski conditions.  We still had to ski trees with care as the low density snow hides rocks / bamboo / trees.   The creeks present a considerable hazard - particularly since they tend to have very steep sidewalls and are slow to freeze given the widespread onsen (hot) water.  Carrying a small rope kit (or 2) in a group is essential.

We managed Windslab and Storm Slab avalanche problems - which tend to settle out quickly.  It snowed 10-30cm nearly every day in Hokkaido while we were there while Hakuba tended to have alternating snow events with clear weather.  Winds come from the W/NW and load the S/SE/E quadrant and often overlay sun crusts.  Wind increase rapidly with elevation and whiteout conditions above treeline are best avoided.  

A Persistent Sunburst interface exists in Hokkaido down 80-200cm in the snowpack between the early season snow and the snow of the past 2 weeks (called Dec 17th).  Test pits on this layer showed variable results.  This layer produced a size 2.5 avalanche late in December in Asahidake on a South aspect with 1 involved.

Conditions update on Hokkaido Japan.

I spent the week before christmas and the week of Jan 4-10 exploring a few of the Hokkaido's back-country and lift-accessed back-country in numerous regions in Hokkaido.

 

General conditions / logistics information of popular ski resorts

Tomamu

This resort is located in central Hokkaido and seems to be less popular with foreigners than some of the other resorts we visited.  Its great for the day you go from Furano to New Chitose.  I spoke to one English Speaking patroller who told me that the hill does not 'allow' people to ski back-country but that "what we do is up to us if we left the resort".  Like all resorts -  we would be responsible for any rescue costs.   They have an "experts only" yellow arm band that allows you to ski off piste.  There was no formal gate system to access the adjacent back-country.

Kiroro

This resort boasts some of the deepest snowpack in Hokkaido & is learning to accommodate the interest of foreign skiers who want to ski backcountry.  They have a new - and very confusing - system to access the back-country found at the Mountain Center.  You must file an intentions report and show a 'pass' to a gatekeeper when leaving the resort.

Kamui Ski Links (150-750m)

Kamui Ski Links is a small but seemingly great resort a half hour from Asahikawa that offers great skiing - and back-country - when it is stormy up high.  We did not ski here - but heard reports of good back-country that is popular with local enthusiasts. 

Furano (250-1200m)

Furano is another large and well developed resort located in central Hokkaido.  There is some off-piste and back-country skiing available here - and this is where we found some of the best slack-country long lines.  Notably - the previous policy of dis-allowing off-piste and back-country skiing has been changed.  Complete your intentions form with the ski patrol at one of the 2 mountains.  

Niseko United  (30-1310m)

The Niesko complex is the most popular resort system in Hokkaido.  Comprised of four ski resorts: Hanozono, Grand Hirafu, The Niseko Village and Annupuri Kokusai Resort. We did not ski here - but I've heard that there is a well organized system of gates to access the back-country adjacent to each of the Niseko resorts.  Many of those lines involve long traverses back into the resort.  Due to the number of foreign skiers (largely Australian) skiing these gates I've been told it gets skied out very quickly.   They produce a daily avalanche bulletin and list of which gates are open.  

http://niseko.nadare.info

ニセコなだれ情報 Niseko Avalanche Information niseko.nadare.info 山麓6時-8 度結晶雪降雪40cm 静穏、モイワ800m-11度風弱く降雪40cmふきだまりなし、見返り740m-10.8度南西0.9m/s、アンヌプリ1150m-12 ...

http://www.snowjapan.com/japan-daily-snow-weather-reports/niseko-now

Skiing in Daisetsusan National Park

When skiing back-country in Daisetsusan National Park all back-country skiers are required to sign an intentions form / route plan.  These are located at the onsens / visitor centers / hotels adjacent to the trailheads of popular areas like Tokachi-dake / Furano-dake / Asahi-dake and many others.  Inquire locally if unsure.  The forms are in Kanji - but here is the translated order: 

Date	Time of Entrance	How many Days	How many People in Your Group	Name	Home city	Climbing Mtn or Skiing?	Equipment Checklist: <> phone, <> map,  <> 1st aid,  <>Beacon, <> radio, <>GPS,  <>warm clothes	Your return Time	Comments to complete on your return

Tokachi-Dake / Furano-Dake

There are 3 zones: the 3 degrees zone, the tokachi-dake zone, and the low entrance to Furano-dake.  This region is pure back-country.  Although there is a story that one area was gladed so that the Prince could enjoy the back-country skiing in the park back in the 70's.  Fabulous onsen's are to be found.  

Kurodake

Kurodake - Located in the Onsen town of Sounkyo on the North-Eastern end of the Daisetsusan National Park - is a backcountry paradise.  Unfortunately, it closes down for the height of the ski season for 'maintenance'.  I've heard that there is simply too much snow.  It will be closed from Jan 4th - Feb 4th, 2016.  This 'resort' is not patrolled and there are great back-country lines adjacent to the resort - but be sure not ski below the resort or into any steep ravines.

Asahidake - Daisetsu San (1900-2200m)

Asahidake or Daisetsu San is the highest mountain in Hokkaido and is located in the North-Western end of the Daisetsusan National Park and is accessed from an Onsen town of the same name.  This is where we encountered some of the deepest powder I have ever seen.  This area is accessed by a  single Tram and has 2 cat roads down with numerous back-country lines through short steeper sections.    

Hakuba Conditions report

I spent 8 days back-country skiing in the Hakuba Region Dec 27 - Jan 3.  We found that in spite of the extremely low snow conditions - we were able to find good to great skiing on all days.  On all days but one, we used the lifts to access back-country ski areas above the piste and then used the lifts to download the lower mountains.  

When we were there - there was about 20-60cm of snow at base resorts,  Around .8-1.2m at 1700m and 80-200cm above 2000m depending on wind scouring / loading.  Conditions have improved slightly in the week since we left & the forecast is set to snow over a meter in the next week.  Have fun.

Ski resorts in the Hakuba region have more developed policies for accessing / leaving the back-country than in Hokkaido.  Similarly -  each ski area has its own method for accessing the back-country and strategy.  Skiing the trees off piste in bounds is not allowed in most resorts and you can lose your pass.  Be sure to familiarize yourself with the rules of each resort.  I briefly include what I learned from the 3 ski areas we visited.

The best conditions report of all the regional resorts comes from the Happo-one snow report.  

http://www.snowjapan.com/japan-daily-snow-weather-reports/Hakuba-Now

There is a Japanese Avalanche bulletin - but is in Japanese.  You can get a sense of the Hazard rating.

http://nadare.jp/alert/index.html

Tsugiake Ski area.  

This is one of the most versatile ski hills in the region for back-country skiing.  From the top of the ski hill most folks access the regions tree runs and upper bowls via a cat road at 1600m.  Note: The S slopes above this road until the first switch-back MUST be avoided as part of a permanent closure.   where they threaten the Cat Road - in other words - the zone from the skin-up spot to the first switchback are permanently closed.

Happo-One Ski area.  

This resort tolerates folks leaving the resort at the top of the lifts to access the Happo-one ridge. Avoid ducking ropes in the ski resort.  The gondola and upper lifts are prone to shut down in moderate winds.  Skiing big lines to valley bottoms demands good hazard assessment,  conservative terrain use and sufficient snow to the roads.

Cortina / Norikura Ski areas.  

This is one of the few resorts in the region that seemed to allow off piste tree skiing in bounds.  Given the low snow conditions - we were only able to ski here one day.  There are gates to leave the resort into the back-country.  

Enjoy your explorations and be in touch if you have any more specific questions.

Best, 

Cece

Cecelia Mortenson
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide  / CAA L2

Aspiremountainjourneys.com

778-266-0650

[MCR] K-Country Public Safety Ice Training

Hello Everyone,

Please be advised that K-Country Public Safety teams will be conducting an organized ice training & evacuation at both Whiteman's Falls AND the Junkyards on Wednesday January 20th 2016.

Best Regards,

Paddy Jerome

Public Safety Specialist

Kananaskis Region

Alberta Environment and Parks

Office: 403 687 5500 ext: 277

Cell: 403 678 7064

Email: paddy.jerome@gov.ab.ca

Facebook: Kananaskis Public Safety

Twitter: Kananaskis Public Safety

 

 

[MCR] Rockies: Yoho

Today we skied a north aspect between 2250 m and 1700 m, in Yoho Park. There was 10-15 cm of recent snow lying atop about 120 cm of faceted snow. There were no distinct layers in the snowpack here, and we didn't see any signs of recent wind effect even on an exposed ridge at treeline. Even though the snowpack is faceted it still carries a skier well.

We skied a long, open 40 degree slope and triggered two size 1 loose/dry avalanches, so we had to make sure we managed our sluffs on the way down. The ski quality was excellent, without another track in sight!

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Alpinism | » Lake Louise Ski Mountaineering Weekend

[MCR] Cascade Mountain - Rogan's Gully

Climbed Rogan's Gully on Cascade Mountain today (Jan 13).

The climb is in great shape with good ice and easy travel through the snow sections. There is evidence of some previous avalanche activity in the gully. Though isolated, there is still some snow in the start zones above the climb. We wore avalanche transceivers and carried shovels and probes.

Another party was on Cascade Falls, but we didn't hear how their day went.

Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] essondale right

I attempted to climbed Essondale Right yesterday.   I backed off the crux pitch which is the upper tier in the photo.   I belayed in a cave on the right - part way up the crux pitch.  The only shelter belay spot at the moment.   From there on to the steep curtain the ice was extremely dry and brittle with absolutely no gear.   I felt that I couldn't lead it safely.   I would suspect that the fluctuation of the temperatures had something to do with it.

Cheers,

Marco Delesalle

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Whiteman's Settlements

Hi Everyone, 

Further to Lilla's post a day or two ago, I came out of the Highwood area yesterday (Friday Jan 8th) after a training course and came across Darren and Kenji who had just walked part way out of Whiteman's Falls.  They climbed the first pitch and had a very unsettling settlement somewhere proximal to Kenji's tools at the top of the 1st pitch. The sound the settlement made thundered through the canyon.  They retreated.  

It appears these events reinforce the imperative of carefully assessing the ice we are to climb when we roll up to freestanding ice features. The temperatures had been consistently cold leading up to the 5th of January, the freezing levels rose to about 1900-2000 on Jan 6th and then yesterday the temps returned to seasonal values of about -10.0 and yesterday morning to -20.0.  Perhaps this is contributing factor to the settlements and perhaps not, nonetheless it is worth being aware of.

Best Regards,

Paddy Jerome

Public Safety Specialist

Kananaskis Region

Alberta Environment and Parks

Office: 403 687 5500 ext: 277

Cell: 403 678 7064

Email: paddy.jerome@gov.ab.ca

Facebook: Kananaskis Public Safety

Twitter: Kananaskis Public Safety

[MCR] Cascade Kronenbourg and Carlsberg Column

I climbed Cascade Kronenbourg and Carlsberg Column today. Temps were about -10. Cascade Kronenbourg was easy for its grade and Carlsberg Column was tough for its grade. The 1st pitch of Carlsberg Column was quite a bit more challenging than its neighbour. The tool placements were mediocre at best and it was challenging to find good gear. The gear on Cascade Kronenbourg was plentiful and the sticks were good. Both routes were dry.

Cheers,
Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies- Kootenay NP

Yesterday I skied in Kootenay National Park on East and South East aspects between 1500-2100m.
The wind was moderate out of the NE, -5 and snowing S-1,HST 5-10 cm drifting into pockets of about 20 cm.
On our up track we observed newly formed wind slab. They were showing signs of propagating with shooting cracks.
The upper 5 cms were quite reactive but not picking up speed or volume.
At about 2100M we transitioned to a SE aspect, still on the uptrack aspect observing a suncrust under the new HST.
Immediately a slab cracked above me and pulled out a sz 1-1.5 which didn't have enough power to knock me down but certainly caught my attention.

Be wary of windslab sitting on suncrust as it is likely touchy.

Thomas Grandi
ACMG ASG

    

           

           
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[MCR] Rockies; Red Man Soars and Whitman's ice climb photos

Oops, I meant to include these in my post….

[MCR] Rockies; Red Man Soars ice climb

We climbed Red Man Soars today in K Country. The route is in excellent shape and ice is quite plentiful in the necessary places. The approach still has some open water but it is easy to avoid. There was close to 10cm of new snow by 3pm this afternoon, but very little wind in the canyon. Good fast travel on the road with skis and blue wax.

Whiteman's looks to be in solid grade 6 shape and still quite wet. The route let out several deep, settlement cracking sounds today which certainly caught our attention.

Lilla Molnar
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Rockies, Spray River Falls

I guided an ascent of Spray River Falls today, Jan 6th. The route is in great shape, big and blue, with some water running on all pitches, but lots of dry ice too. There is a good hard pack trail, and preserved line of up steps, leading to the climb. Several surface sloughs to size 1 (large enough to bury your dog, but not you) in the dry cold surface snow (facets -dry sugar-like snow).

A fine day on a grand route.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Louise Falls, Rockies

Hi all,

I guided an ascent of Louise Falls today January 6th. We enjoyed milder temperatures ranging from -9.0C to -5.0C and overcast skies. We were pretty lucky and had the climb to ourselves. The route is in good early conditions with two large pillars touching down on the steeper head-wall. We climbed the left pillar as it was both easier and drier. The difficulty on this section felt like grade 4+ or 5-. The ice was overall still very hard from the recent cold spell and required extra work to get good tool placements.  Ice protection was excellent without to much digging, a few 10cm ice screws were useful on the final thinner section. All the bolted anchors encoutered are in good shape. We opted for the walk off which had seen little traffic and provided good traction. Of note, there's a few threatening looking hanging daggers along the top of the main curtain which could be of concerns with big temperature swings. Lots of surface water running however, it was easy to stay dry.

Happy climbing!

David Lussier

acmg mountain guide

http://summitmountainguides.com/

[MCR] Mount Field ski ascent, Rockies

Hi all,

I guided a ski ascent to the main summit of Mount Field today January 5th. We had broken to overcast sky conditions, temperatures ranging from -14.0C to -7.0C and light winds form the southwest. There was a trace of new snow overnight and traveling conditions were excellent with a 10-20 cm ski penetration. There was minor wind effect in the alpine predominantly above 2300m. Ski quality was good above 2300m and excellent below. We saw evidence of previous surface hoar growth to 20mm below treeline tapering to 4mm at 2000m. We measured and average of 150cm of snow at treeline. The upper 40cm was quite faceted and loose but still supportive and skiing well. We saw no new avalanche and no signs of instability. A test profile at 2300m on a northeast aspect showed no significant results. There was a fair amount of traffic in this area over the holidays however, there was plenty of room to ski un-tracked snow all the way back down. 

Pretty awesome conditions for early January in the Rockies!

Cheers,

David Lussier

acmg mountain guide

http://summitmountainguides.com/

[MCR] Rockies: Vermillion Peak

We skied on east and west aspects between 1400 and 2600 m on Vermillion Peak today. Of note were the temperatures:

0845, 1400 m, -27

0930, 1700 m, -15

1030, 2000 m, -8

1145, 2300 m, +1

1230, 2600 m, -3

1600, 1400 m, -18

An interesting above freezing layer sandwiched between colder air. If you are in the cold valley the cornices and snowy cliffs high above you may be baking.

We didn't see any avalanche activity but snow surfaces on the west aspect were moist in the afternoon.

The regular uptrack beside the avalanche path was hard and slippery and felt like 5.9 slab climbing a lot of the time! The regular ski line is moguls. The skiing in the burnt forest to the side is very good but regrowth below 1800 m is still thick with the shallow snowpack we have right now.

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Alpinism | » Revelstoke Long Weekend

[MCR] Bourgeau Right and Left

Happy New Year,

I climbed approximately 3/4 of Bourgeau Right today with an old friend.  Temperature in the parking lot this morning was -20.0 at 0630.  We climbed to the top of Pitch 5.

Leading up to our turn around time we felt OK with the temps and solar input and then rather quickly, did not.  At 1200 the impact from the sun made us uncomfortable.  We began the rappels and were at the base in one hour and we witnessed 3 size 1.0 loose dry/wet avalanches as we were descending, one dusted us at the base of the crux pitch and the other two ran on either side of main ice flow but filtered into the main catchment on the approach.  Another party that was below us initially bailed as well after they saw us retreat.

We had companion avalanche rescue gear (probes, shovels and beacons) with us today because of the complexity of the terrain but also in spite of the Low hazard rating for Banff National Park.  

Incidentally, another very experienced party on Bourgeau Left today bailed at the top of the 3rd pitch on account of the solar heating.  They saw no avalanche activity on their outing but were relieved when they got off the route and got out of the line of fire.

Watch the day time heating out there in the afternoon this weekend on steep, south facing avalanche terrain or better yet avoid it altogether until the warmer temperatures aloft subside.

Best Regards,

Paddy Jerome

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide 

(C) 403 609 0795

[MCR] Assiniboine area

Happy New Year all.

Hanging around at Assiniboine lodge with family and thought it would be good to report on current local conditions.

Sunny skies and cold clear weather with temperatures dipping to -29 at night and -17 day at the lodge 2050m. Surface hoar up to size 20mm has been building all around us at the same elevation. Upon skiing above the lodge 2150m and higher there was a drastic inversion up to -4. No surface hoar was observed on North or South aspects up there. But we only observed a small area.

There is an unusually supportive snowpack for this time of year at this location. Travel is still good but facets are getting bigger.

Olivia Sofer, ACMG ASG
Thomas Grandi, ACMG ASG
Sepp Renner, ACMG MG

Olivia Sofer
www.wildtrips.ca


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.