Happy New Year,
I climbed approximately 3/4 of Bourgeau Right today with an old friend. Temperature in the parking lot this morning was -20.0 at 0630. We climbed to the top of Pitch 5.
Leading up to our turn around time we felt OK with the temps and solar input and then rather quickly, did not. At 1200 the impact from the sun made us uncomfortable. We began the rappels and were at the base in one hour and we witnessed 3 size 1.0 loose dry/wet avalanches as we were descending, one dusted us at the base of the crux pitch and the other two ran on either side of main ice flow but filtered into the main catchment on the approach. Another party that was below us initially bailed as well after they saw us retreat.
We had companion avalanche rescue gear (probes, shovels and beacons) with us today because of the complexity of the terrain but also in spite of the Low hazard rating for Banff National Park.
Incidentally, another very experienced party on Bourgeau Left today bailed at the top of the 3rd pitch on account of the solar heating. They saw no avalanche activity on their outing but were relieved when they got off the route and got out of the line of fire.
Watch the day time heating out there in the afternoon this weekend on steep, south facing avalanche terrain or better yet avoid it altogether until the warmer temperatures aloft subside.
Best Regards,
Paddy Jerome
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
(C) 403 609 0795
