[MCR] Icefield's Ice conditions Feb 15-20,2015

Ice conditions from Feb. 15-20th, 2015

I have been guiding the parkway up to Jasper this week.   I thought i would add to Carl's post about conditions of ice.  Most climbs I looked at or did on solar aspects have a lot of running water behind them, sun rotted and delaminated from the rock.  A lot of the top out bulges are still holding a lot of pooled slush.  With most climbs that are fed with a steady feed of precip. are down to the bare ground on the tops.
I decided to give the Weeping Wall a miss this week due to how it looked.  Rotted and sun kicked.  Especially the left side.  The right side still looked climbable...

Louise Fall is still in good shape.

Balfour Wall is melting out but still climbable

Maligne Canyon is hanging in there.  Although I gave the queen (left side) a miss due to how warm it was and unsupported the climb is.  Angel on the right side is in good shape and that's what we climbed. These were relatively dry.

Kerkeslin Falls is in ok shape still.  Just south of Jasper. But is has a large horizontal crack at the top of pitch 3.  All the way to rock.  Looking in there, the ice has delaminated from the rock. This pitch won't last long if the sun continues to heat it up.

The Tangle Falls main area is pouring with water.  It also is not in good shape. I didn't climb on it.   But there is a good separate tier on the right side that is still dry, safe and climbable.

Most big climbs on Wilson are now gone.

Jon

[MCR] Freshfield Icefield Feb 15 to 18

We just returned from a last minute decision to fly into the Freshfield as freezing levels were too high to entice us to start skiing from valley bottoms.  We were looking for alpine terrain with good snow and found it!

We base camped on the east side of the Freshfield glacier below Gilgit/ Helmer mountains at 2600m.

Day 1: We explored and gathered snowpack information around Gilgit Helmer and to the col and the top of the Mummery Glacier.

Day 2: Skied to Low- Mt-Barlow col and onto the Cairnes glacier with a loop back to camp via the Whiteaves- Low col.

Day 3: Ascended the west Freshfield icefield to Nanga Parbat and returned to camp.

Day 4: Skied onto Mummery glacier via the Gilgit- Helmer col to our heli pick up on moraines at 2180m.

Weather

It sure felt wintery up there.  Sunday/ Monday low -22 high -10 sunny and calm with light ridge top winds from NW.  Tuesday low -19 high -9 sunny and calm with moderate ridge top winds from NW.  Wednesday low -10 high -5 high overcast with light ridgetop winds from W. Nil precipitation throughout the period.

Avalanches

Upon arrival there was evidence of a previous cycle during the warming event of the early week-end on North and East aspects of slab avalanches out of steep terrain from cornice failures up to size 2.5.  Some of these were down to bare ice or ground.  While we were there we observed one new size 2.5 solar triggered on a South aspect out of steep rocky alpine terrain.  On our flight out we also observed evidence of a natural cycle on South and SW aspects at TL and BTL probably from the last 48 hours as we did not see those on the way in.

Snowpack

We experienced a well settled snowpack with a facetted surface and a well settled midpack.  Overall there is 3 m plus depth of snow on the glaciers.  We found the storm interface at 30cm down and experienced moderate to hard shears on this interface.  There is good bridging strength over crevasses.  Wind effect after yesterday is present on west and south aspects with windslabs up to 20cm deep in open areas mostly near ridge tops. Surface hoar building as of yesterday in sheltered areas.

Travel

Ski penetration was up to 20cm deep.  Ski quality was excellent below 3000m on all aspects and down to our low point at 2180m.  We brought but did not need ski crampons or boot crampons for this trip as winter conditions were present.  Of note the ramp through the Freshfield west glacier described in the newest Summits and Icefields book is still present with but with a few icefall challenges.

Olivia Sofer ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide/ Hiking Guide

Chad Rigby ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide/ Apprentice Alpine Guide

Nicholas Bussieres ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide/ Apprentice Rock Guide

 

[MCR] Rockies - Junkyards icefall

Cooler temps the last couple of days have helped to dry out the Junkyards a bit and firm up the slush. Anchors lasted all day today, for the first time in a while it seems. 

Nonetheless, a couple of chilly nights have done nothing to offset the weeks of warmth the area has experienced lately, and the main falls are pumping right now. This afternoon, having just finished talking about the instability of the ice adjacent to the falls, as if on cue we witnessed two separate catastrophic failures to the right of the falls, a few minutes apart. Both events involved multiple car-sized blocks — we could feel the impact through the Scottish Gully — that ripped down the treed gully toward the Transalta construction site. Some big debris made it as far as an area of low-angled ice that is often used for cramponing practice. Wasn't able to see if any hangfire was left, but I wouldn't have much confidence in anything up there right now, regardless. 

Just a reminder for me that there are likely plenty of other features elsewhere that have been similarly undermined and are in a late-April creaky state these days. That's something I know I'll be keeping in mind for the next while as I wait for the eventual return of winter. (I just hope we're not waiting til next November for that!…)   

Carl Johnston

ACMG Alpine & Rock Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Mt Forbes

View of Mt Forbes north face yesterday. These warm storms have been good for snow sticking to ice faces. 

[MCR] Rockies, Snow Dome, Ski ascent

Hi all,

Today I guided a group of 5 up Snow Dome via the Athabasca glacier. We had below freezing temperatures all day and a mix of sun and cloud with reduced visibility above 3000m. Moderate west winds created a fair amount of wind transport and variable wind affect higher up. Below 3000m there was up to 20cm of low density snow overlying a firm snowpack which provided good ski quality and fast traveling conditions.

Snow pack depth varied from 70 cm on the toe of the Athabasca glacier to 200cm on the final head-wall. There was over 300cm on the Columbia icefields. On our way up the Athabasca glacier, we access the first bench from the right, the second bench from the left and the final head-wall directly as per usual.

All in all pretty descent conditions considering it is February!

Cheers,

David Lussier
mountain guide
www.summitmountainguides.com

[MCR] Rockies Conditions -- Professor Falls

Out today on Professor Falls we enjoyed the best conditions I have seen there in some time. -10C in the morning and -4C by mid-day. Calm down low but lots of wind transport up at ridgeline with some significant sloughing pouring off the rock bands on either side of the Trophy Wall. Cloudy all day.

The approach was so dry we easily biked on townies all the way to the base. (Pretty sure I saw some fat bike tracks on the first pitch,  actually.) All pitches are still super wide and blue but have healed up since I was there a few weeks back. Despite the heat wave lately, the last 36hrs of cooler conditions had shut off the taps and there was barely a drop of surface water running or any chandelier ice to contend with. We had no issues staying dry all day. 

Thanks to the recent rain event(s) up to the penultimate pitch (~2050m) there is barely any snow cover, and certainly not enough to be of concern for avalanches; however that changed dramatically above that elevation. All of the upper feeder gullies have avalanched during the recent warm spell. An impressive wet Sz 2 has left a wall 2-3m high wall of debris perched at the top of the second last pitch and the first 1/3 of the crux pitch is just walking on styrofoam blocks. The crux is dry and hooked out, easy shape. Except for the final rock anchor, which I wasn't able to excavate from behind a wall of white cement, all the anchors are currently accessible/reachable.

Enjoy!

Carl Johnston

Alpine & Rock Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Rockies-Polar Circus, Feb 17th, 2015

Turned around above the pencil on Polar Circus today around 10 am. Below this point the snow was almost all either stone hard avalanche debris or spectacular snow/ice. On the traverse though, there was still a facetted base to the snowpack and some recent windslabs. It was not terribly scary at 10am but with daytime heating it felt likely it would/could get scary.

Extensive avalanche control had been done on and above Polar Circus by Parks Canada as part of last weeks recovery effort. It is probably about as safe as it gets on the lower route and above the route but the effects of daytime heating on the shallow facetted areas and the recent small windslabs provided just a bit too much uncertainty in a very high consequence place for us.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] South Coast Mountains, Spearhead Traverse

I did a lap through the Spearhead Traverse this past weekend. We found enjoyable travel and sking above 2000m. Below 1900m there is no snow on the Feb 13^th rain crust and its associated runnels. In the alpine there is on average 15cm snow on the crust, but in many places it is thinner and partially blow away. The bond between the dust on the crust is strong enough to allow reasonably easy skinning. We found ski crampons where useful a few times through thinner areas.

The average snow depth over glacier ice (at traverse elevations) is easily more than 2.5m and snow bridges over crevasses seem supportive due to all the melt freeze layers.  There are still more crevasses visible than usual for this time of year.

 

There are two areas that need extra attention. The Ripsaw/Naden Col (on the Naden Gl side) is unusually steep  and not dished like normal. A slip here could easily result in a fall over rocks into the windcirque. The alt route to the west is too rocky and lacking snow to work easily.  Also, the notch under the NW side of Overlord Mt is lacking snow. Yesterday there was  thin veneer of snow/slush over rock slab. I lowered people a few feet over this to better snow. Ice axes where useful in these areas and when walking on ice glazed ridges.

 

This all made for really enjoyable fast traverse conditions!

  

 

Dave Sarkany

DSK Guiding

 

 

ACMG Ski Guide - Association of Canadian Mountain Guides

CAA Professional Member - Canadian Avalanche Association

SKGABC -Level 3 Sea Kayak Guide - Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC

 

604.938.4056

dsarkany@telus.net

www.dskguiding.com

 

[MCR] Portal Creek Drainage Jasper National Park

In anticipation of the delayed access restriction ending after today, we travelled into the Portal Creek drainage off of Marmot Peak to inform tomorrow's avalanche forecast. We saw evidence of several large slab avalanches to size 3.5 that had run full path, - likely 48 hours ago during the last warm storm. One crown on a NE slope immediately below the west ridge of Chak peak was at least 3m high and these large avalanches are scrubbing down to ground. Our test profile at 2350m on a SE sheltered slope had sudden collapses that easily propagated in the upper facets below the January 30th storm layer. At this elevation, the Jan 30th layer is a stiff 5cm thick band down 50cm from the surface - well within the depth of influence of a backcountry traveller. Weak facets/depth hoar below this layer extend from 75cm to ground.  

 

Despite the disappointing base of the snowpack, the upper well-settled layers of the last two weeks of warm storms carried our "delicate" skiing style well down below treeline on shaded aspects. A sandwich of several surface crusts on solar aspects makes travel a bit more challenging when you leave shaded terrain.

 

Landon Shepherd ASG

Steve Blagbrough MG

[MCR] Special Public Avalanche Warning Extended until Tuesday February 17th, 2015

Although temperatures have started to cool, avalanche conditions are proving slow to improve in the Rockies, especially at higher elevations. Parks Canada and Alberta Parks have decided to extend the Special Public Avalanche Warning for Banff, Yoho, Kootenay, & Jasper National Parks and Kananaskis Country until Tuesday February. 17th. 

Parks Canada Visitor Safety & Kananaskis Country Public Safety

[MCR] Special Public Avalanche Warning for Banff, Yoho & Kootenay, Jasper, Kananaskis, February 13, 2015

A Special Public Avalanche Warning (SPAW) is being issued from Feb 13-15th, 2015. The areas included are Banff, Yoho, Kootenay, and Jasper National Parks, as well as Kananaskis Country.

For more information on why the SPAW is being issued, and where further updates will be posted, please follow the links below:

• Parks Canada Links in English and French
  
• Kananaskis Country Link

This is in conjunction with Avalanche Canada who are issuing a SPAW for the Southern Interior regions of BC

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

Kananaskis Public Safety

[MCR] Avalanche Control EEOR, Kananaskis Country

Kananaskis Public Safety will be doing Avalanche Control on the EEOR between 1300-1400.

 

The road will be closed for a brief period during this time on Canmore Hill Highway 742.

 

Thanks

 

Kananaskis Public Safety

Environment and Sustainable Resources Development

Kananaskis Country, AB

twitter.com/KCPublicSafety

www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety

 

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[MCR] Rockies - Coire Dubh area Feb 12th, 2015

Warm day on the East slope of the Rockies and yet we kinda froze in the strong Chinook coming from the NW. We climbed most of "The Doors of Perception" but bailed right to easier ground when we got too cold to hang around the belays. Lots of small rocks being blown around by the wind.

Good conditions all over the Coire Dubh basin. The ice is still there and plastic. The rock is mostly dry. The snow is still surprisingly unconsolidated in places and mostly only firm in the old steps or on the hard windslabs. Hard to imagine an avalanche there before the next storm unless it gets really warm and you are in a very solar heated south facing corner of the bowl. (Where it is probably already dry:)

The descent is dry but as nasty and as long a pounding as ever.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Avalanche Control on the Ice fields Parkway.

Avalanche control planned for Parkers Ridge and Mt Saskatchewan tomorrow, February 13th. Expect spot closures on highway 93 of 1 to 4 hours between 11:00 and 17:00.

Thanks

Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Jasper National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Blackcomb backcountry

Hello,

I went for a wander in the white today and found quite good ski conditions. The surface snow is not dry, but skis well. I was pleasantly surprised!

We traveled in the spearhead/phalanx area primarily between 1900m and 2400m with obscured skies, light winds, light snowfall, and temperatures hovering around or just below 0&lsqauo;.

There is about a 100-130cm of storm snow sitting in the crust in the high alpine, which is slightly upside down felt with a ski pole, but supports the weight of a skier. Snowpack depths on the glaciers were over 320cm, ski penetration is 10-20 cm and boot penetration is 60 cm. In some exposed areas the snow has been scoured by wind almost to the crust.

We saw no natural avalanches, but saw snowballing out of steeper terrain. The storm snow appeared to be bonding and settling well with our primary concerns being cornice exposure and heavy sluff in steeper terrain.

Cheers
Jeff Van Driel
ACMG ski guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies - Icefields Parkway - Murchison Falls

Today, with friends Eddie, Jacob, and Jason, I climbed Murchison Falls. Skies were predominantly overcast with little wind and snow accumulation up to 4cm.

With the warm temps the new storm snow is settling well on the approach slopes. There is a good boot pack to the base of the route.

Both "But My Daddy's a Psycho" and Murchison are in great mid season condition. The new snow and fresh weeps made for damp climbing and we were thankful for extra pairs of dry gloves.

Recent storm snow is forming a cornice on the left side at the top of the climb. It's about .5m thick today.

Brent Peters
PeakStratagem.com

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Mt. Hector, Dennis, Stephen and Burgess

Avalanche control is planned for Mt. Hector (BNP) and Mt. Stephen, Dennis and Burgess in Yoho on February 10th. Please no outdoor activities of any kind in these areas tomorrow.

Thanks for your co-operation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Area Closure - Polar Circus

Parks Canada is conducting rescue operations on the ice climb 'Polar Circus'. This ice climb is closed to the public until rescue operations are complete.

Thank you



Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Mt Bourgeau and Mt. Whymper - Feb. 9th, 2015

Avalanche control is planned for Mt. Bourgeau (BNP) and Mt. Whymper (KNP) tomorrow February 9th. No outdoor activities in these areas tomorrow.

Thanks

Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] The Rockies - Junkyards rockfall

A large microwave-sized rock bounced down the the main flow of the Junkyards today around noon while we were eating lunch below and out of the way at the staging area. We waited and watched for about 20 minutes to see if it was an isolated incident, then I cleaned our ropes and left. The continued warm temperatures are obviously exposing and lubricating loose rock that should be buried and frozen in place. Warm temperatures are forecasted most of the week so be aware of fresh choss melting out and teetering over ice climbs.

Sean Isaac

ACMG Alpine Guide

CAJ Editor

E: sean@seanisaac.com

T: 403-609-7590

W: www.seanisaac.com

FB: Sean Isaac Guiding

[MCR] Coast Range, Spearhead and Duffy Regions Feb.1st-7th

We just finished a week of Apprentice Ski Guide training in the Spearhead & Duffey Region.

Terrain Travelled

 The Flute/Oboe Basin,  the Spearhead Glacier,  Mt Cayoosh (Armchair Glacier and North Glacier) and Joffre lakes over to Anniversary Glacier.

 

Weather and snow conditions.

Early in the week we had 15cm of snow on top of a very hard melt freeze crust.  Moderate winds formed some small wind slabs near ridge tops and wind exposed areas.  These wind slabs reacted easy to skiing in slopes over 35 deg.  On Feb. 5th a major weather event occurred, lasting through the remainder of the week.  High freezing levels to 2100m,  strong to extreme winds from the SW and heavy precipitation of 100mm was wet snow in the alpine and rain from valley bottom to 2000m.  This resulted in a large natural avalanche cycle running on the melt freeze crust on all aspects at TL and above.  

Travel conditions

The first part of the week was descent skiing in the ALP and open areas of TL and BTL about 1600m.  Below 1600m the travel was quite rugged due to the lack of snow depth and the hard melt freeze crust.  On the Armchair glacier and North Glacier the snowpack was 300cm+ and the North Glacier was very broken, a rope was a must to travel safely up and down.  Lower down in the creek was rugged and had few places to cross. The other group hiked without skis from the parking lot to the Joffre Lakes due to the lack of snow.  The moraine below the glacier had very little snow coverage. Boot crampons and ice axes were needed to access the glacier above.   Snowpack was around 250cm+ on the glacier with more open crevasses than normal. The Anniversary glacier was the best skiing of the week.  Ski crampons were useful for all trips and still would be for lower elevations when the temperatures drop and for possible wind scoured places higher up in the alpine.

Play safe

12 aspirant ski guides

Marc Piche ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Scott Flavelle ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Dan Madell ACMG Ski Guide

[MCR] Planned avalanche control, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks, February 7, 2015

Parks Canada is planning to do avalanche control on Mt Stephen and Mt Bosworth in Yoho National Park, and Mt Whymper and the Simpson slide paths in Kootenay National Park on Saturday, February 7, 2015. No ice climbing or other activities in the area.
--
Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Selkirks- Rogers Pass, Asulkan, Saphire Col Feb 3-4th

Chad Rigby & I did an overnight trip to Sapphire Col Feb 3-4th. On Feb
3rd the valley bottom temps were 0 degrees at the base of the Mouse Trap
(1500m) and there was 30cm of storm snow over the Jan 30 rain crust. At
this elevation in the drainage we found 8-10mm surface hoar on the rain
crust. Beyond the Mouse Trap in "the Ravens" area at approximately 1900m
(west aspect) there was a size 2 natural avalanche 30-40cm deep 35m wide
which I suspect ran on surface hoar.

We did a number of quick checks for the surface hoar and we did not see
it in the open treeline and alpine areas between the Mouse Trap and
Sapphire col. The buried rain crust was only 1cm thick at 2050m and
became a hard wind layer at higher elevations, with 40cm plus of low
density storm snow on top making for deep trail breaking.

There was very little wind effect in this area and the storm snow had
not settled into a slab yet. I suspect this will change rapidly with the
current snowfall and forecasted rise in temps.

As we left the Asulkan drainage we noticed a new slab avalanche which I
suspect was a skier accidental down 30cm, 20m wide in a steep creek in the
"Mushroom people" area. Again I think this was on a pocket of surface
hoar on the rain crust.

Have a great winter

Kirsten

Kirsten Knechtel
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
kirsten.knechtel@gmail.com
www.kirstenknechtel.com
--










On 15-02-02 7:38 PM, "Public Mountain Conditions Report"
<mcr@informalex.org> wrote:

>Just out of O¹Hara today. The ice climbs on Wiwaxy peak are about as big
>as I have ever seen them.
>
>"Sad and Beautiful World" looks good and has a parallel line that I don¹t
>remember seeing before. (Happy and Ugly World?) "Cool Water Good Stone"
>is ice from top to bottom. (Cool Water, No Stone?) "Girls Day Out" is fat
>(best leave that one alone:) and the snow on the approach was rock hard
>as of this afternoon.
>
>Ski travel was good and we had no real concerns on fairly steep terrain
>treeline and below. There must be some windslabs up high though as the
>wind picked up today. The road was beautifully track set for classic and
>skate skiing this afternoon if you want to get your nordic on.
>
>Larry Stanier
>Mountain Guide
>laristan@telus.net
>_______________________________________________
>These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
>them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
>omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
>and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
>Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased
>safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in
>planning trips or making decisions in the field.
>See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
>See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name
>from this list.


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies-Lake O'Hara Ice and snow- February 2nd.

Just out of O'Hara today. The ice climbs on Wiwaxy peak are about as big as I have ever seen them.

"Sad and Beautiful World" looks good and has a parallel line that I don't remember seeing before. (Happy and Ugly World?) "Cool Water Good Stone" is ice from top to bottom. (Cool Water, No Stone?) "Girls Day Out" is fat (best leave that one alone:) and the snow on the approach was rock hard as of this afternoon.

Ski travel was good and we had no real concerns on fairly steep terrain treeline and below. There must be some windslabs up high though as the wind picked up today. The road was beautifully track set for classic and skate skiing this afternoon if you want to get your nordic on.

Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Coast Range, Spearhead and Duffey Regions, Jan 28-30

We just finished a week of Apprentice Ski Guide training in the Spearhead & Duffey Region.  

 

Last weeks rain event and well above seasonal temperatures was followed by a partially cloudy to clear, cool and dry spell with freezing levels to valley bottom.  This has left the area with a well developed 5-10cm supportive rain crust on all aspects and elevations. 

During the last three days we travelled between 800m and 2400m.  Snowpack depths varied with below treeline elevations being well below normal at 50-100cm with deep rain runnels. A thick layer of 4mm surface hoar was found below treeline growing on the crust.  Above 2000m the snowpack depth is more typical for this time of year. We probed 250-300cm of well settled snowpack on the glaciers.  Crevasse coverage was generally good with large crevasses still very obvious.  There are very large cornices on lee ridge lines. 

  

No avalanche activity was observed since a natural cycle during the rain event.  The the crust has locked down the upper snowpack and the warm temperatures and rain penetrated into the mid pack and it looked strong and well settled in all the test profiles we did.  At this point fall hazard on the icy crust was our greatest concern especially in areas where the wind had polished a hard surface ice.  

 The travelling conditions were challenging with hard crust and rain runnels on all aspects and elevations.  Uphill travel generally required ski crampons and boot crampons and ice axes were used on steeper slopes.  

 Trips were done in the Blackcomb area on N & S aspects of Mt Decker, the Trorey glacier, and the Spearhead glacier.  In the Duffey we skied on Mt Chief Pascall, the lower slopes of Cayoosh Mountain and Rohr lake.  

Have fun ski mountaineering out there!

14 aspirent guides

+

Kirsten Knechtel

Keith Reid

Helen Sovdat

Matt Peter

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guides