[MCR] Special Public Avalanche Warning

Avalanche Canada has issued a Special Public Avalanche Warning for all regions valid until April 1. You can view the text here: http://www.avalanche.ca/news/Vvrz2iUAAIcC1fhF/spaw-20160329 or a video here: https://vimeo.com/160805040

Karl Klassen - Manager, Public Avalanche Warning Service

Avalanche Canada, Revelstoke, BC, Canada

kklassen@avalanche.ca Phone: 250-837-2141 x108/Mobile: 250-814-8981

[MCR] Rockies: Des Poilus Hut: guidebook and map update

Hello Everyone

Thanks to the ACMG MCR Committee for allowing this post about route finding rather than conditions. 

With the opening of the new Guy Hut on the Wapta Icefield, the area around Mt Collie and Mont Des Poilus has seen a recent surge in traffic. Having co-wrote a guidebook and map to the area (Summits & Icefields: Alpine Ski Tours in the Canadian Rockies and Summits and Icefields Map: Wapta Icefields and Bow Summit), I wanted to provide an update on routes that access the hut. I completed the Bow-Yoho Traverse on March 24-27 and was able to re-verify the routes outlined in the book and on the map now that the hut is actually in operation.

GETTING TO THE GUY HUT FROM THE EAST (AND TRAVELING TO THE EAST FROM THE HUT)

Chic Scott wrote the Yoho Traverse description in the guidebook. His "safer alternative" route on Page 182 that describes a way along a ridge to gain the Glacier Des Poilus from the Mt Collie area passes right by the hut. This is the easiest way to get to the hut from the east. An image is attached to this email with the route marked on a snippet of map. Some additional route finding information for this option follows: 

- Gain the ridge via a small col at the base of the "prominent rock cliff" mentioned in the guidebook. This col is at MGRS 296157, 2750 m. Although it is possible to contour into this col from the glacier, that route traverses a steep slope and it is probably safest to ski a nice pitch down the glacier until just below the col and then skin up to the col (you will need to skin along the ridge for a short ways regardless). There are a couple of open crevasses below the slope used to get to the col. On the ridge itself be careful of cornices and the crack between the ridge and the cornices (the cleave); a skier fell into a cleave there a couple of days ago.

The route to the hut from the east which is marked on the map by a red line is possible but it is not the easiest or safest way to get there. The advantage of this route is that it initially gives a good ski run. However, from the bottom of that run at about 2500 m in the moraine below the glacier it is necessary to ascend to the hut, and the safest way to do so may be a bit difficult. The following would be the safest way (this is not exactly as shown on the map):

- Gain the base of a ridge to the southwest and follow it all the way up to the main ridge about 100 m above and to the north of the hut. This main ridge is the route described in the guidebook. You can skin partway up this route but at one point you will need to walk and this would include negotiating some small rock outcrops. It could be difficult especially in unconsolidated snow conditions.

There are also two other ways from the bottom of the glacier run. One crosses a very steep avalanche slope.  Although SW facing, it seems to get wind loaded (at least it was the other day). The other possibility is a bit complex and awkward, crosses some small avalanche terrain and is exposed to a larger slope above; this is the approximate route as shown on the map. Neither of these routes is the best option.

TRAVELING BETWEEN THE GUY HUT AND THE GLACIER DES POILUS

The safest way to get to the Glacier Des Poilus from the hut is to use smaller, disconnected terrain starting from the south end of the col and bumping slightly skier's left a few times. There are still some steep slopes here but they are smaller than a direct route between the hut and glacier. This spot will be difficult route finding in poor visibility. This route is also marked on the image attached to this email.

Note that the glacier has receded drastically since the glacial dataset for the map was created and there is now a lake at the toe.

I hope this helps with route finding around the new Guy Hut. Comments or additional information are welcome, feel free to email me at the address below.

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff-Lake Louise, Canada

email/ mark@alpinism.com

[MCR] Rockies: Bow-Yoho Traverse

We recently completed the traverse from Bow Lake to Emerald Lake. 

With probing there was 2.5 m - 3.5+ m of firm snow on the glaciers. On glaciers the snowpack seems strong and uniform but with recent wind loading in some areas. 

In non-glaciated terrain from Bow to the Little Yoho Valley there is extremely variable snowpack depths with generally weak basal layers and with a couple of whumpfs in thin spots on moraines. As a result we decided not to go over Isolated Col as we didn't have the high degree of certainty required to expose the group to that steep slope with no safe spots. We went over the Whaleback instead.

On solar aspects there are breakable suncrusts to ridgetop. We were glad that it stayed cool enough that the crusts stayed intact on the south facing descent off the Whaleback. There has been some small loose wet avalanches and snowballing here.

On the Iceline exit there was a more uniform snowpack of 3 m in the morainal features.

We saw evidence of an avalanche cycle that probably occurred March 25 during a solar warming event. There were numerous cornice falls in the Des Poilus area, size 2 - 2.5. We also saw a huge avalanche off the west face of Mt Ogden, which also probably happened March 25. It was 1.1 km wide and 1.4 km long, size 3.5, it ran to the second bench at 1850 m. Picture attached.

Just my opinion - but I have a low level of confidence in the Rockies snowpack right now, especially cornices, south and west aspects in the alpine, and morainal features. 

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff-Lake Louise, Canada

Alpinism | » Lake Louise Ski Mountaineering Weekend

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Hector-March 26th, 2016

Spectacular and busy day on Mt Hector. Upwards of 30 people on the route but it all seemed to work out.

Lower elevations are in good shape with a boot trail and a ski track through the cliff bands. Still solid snow around 3pm. On a hot day these slopes could still melt out and fail dramatically. Lots of ski tracks but still a fairly weak facetted base in most places that could be scary if it got hot soon before it gains more strength.

Glacier is in really good shape, nice fast shallow powder skiing for most of it. The two steep rolls have some serious rhinoceros hide/wind crust that is edgy even in ski crampons. We boot packed up the last big roll just to avoid the edgy patches. Summit tower is in good shape-deep trench up the last slope.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Columbia Icefield Area: Weeping Wall and Curtain Call

A couple of pictures for those wondering about ice climbing conditions in
the Columbia Icefield Area.

A horizontal crack in the ice is completely across Weeping Wall ice column
just below lower step. Hard to see clearly in this attachment but can pick
out the start of it in the center of the picture.
(See attached file: 20160326_133320[1].jpg)

Curtain Call - lower portion and column still look blue but top pitch looks
white, thin and rotten.
(See attached file: 20160326_144616[1].jpg)

Garth Lemke
Resource Management and Visitor Safety Technician
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide

Technician, Gestion des ressources et Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens

Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-1890
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-2369
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper

[MCR] Nesting Owls at Grassi Lakes

Hello Everyone,

Please be advised of the closure to of the following climbing routes at Grassi Lakes due to an owl nesting site, effective March 23, 2016 until further notice.

• You Ain't Nothing But a Hang Dog
• Memphis
• It's Now or Never

 

Paddy Jerome

Public Safety Specialist

Kananaskis Region

Environment and Parks

Parks Division

Suite 201, 800 Railway Avenue

Canmore, Alberta T1W 1P1 Canada

Tel: 403 678 5500

Cell: 403 678 7064

paddy.jerome@gov.ab.ca

www.kananaskis-country.ca

[MCR] Ice Climbs in Jasper and Icefields - part 2

Last forgotten important piece of info...

All these climbs are within the Jasper National Park avalanche bulletin region and fall under the concerns listed in this weekend's issued Special Public Avalanche Warning. Any climbs listed with an ATES (Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale) of 2 or 3 should be considered carefully. 

Of most concern would be Polar Circus and the 'turning the pencil' pitch which is often shallow, faceted and has significant consequences for any un-lucky trigger!

SPAW: http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/scond/Cond_E.asp?oID=23025&oPark=100244

ATES Ratings: http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/mtn/securiteenmontagne-mountainsafety/avalanche/echelle-ratings.aspx

JNP VS

On Mar 24, 2016, at 4:23 PM, Public Mountain Conditions Report <mcr@informalex.org> wrote:

Happy long weekend everyone,

Visitor safety technicians went for a meandering walk up Sunwapta Falls in the Beauty Creek area. The climbing is generally in good shape, good plastic-like ice and, wet but not soaking. We started early and we were well off the climb before 12:00. Ended up with one surprise boot-soaker in a pool below the second pitch on the way down and would expect more as the day progressed, we were glad to be off it early. 

Many of the climbs in the Jasper area are holding up to the spring transition fairly well...

-Climbs in Maligne Canyon are pretty much cooked. Lots of water and significant de-laminating at the top of all climbs, best to avoid. 

-Kerkeslin Falls I would expect to be in similar shape to Sunwapta Falls but we haven't received any recent reports.

-Shades of Beauty and Ric Blak seem to be holding up fairly well. Shades is wet all season long, expect it's a little worse.

-Wings and the Stage - Ice looks good but I've never trusted the large overhead cross-loaded features above. 

-Curtain Call is looking very weathered and fragile at the finish. It appears quite de-laminated above the cone, I'll be surprised if it survives the weekend, better give it a miss!

-Melt-out looked good.

-Tangle has a large and continuous crack across the bottom, seems bad...

-Harder than it Looks - Seems to be hanging in though I've never been desperate enough to get on it.

-Panther and Bridelveil - ?? 

-Mix Master - done for the season

-Weeping Wall - Photo attached taken 24/03/2016; gets a lot of sun, might have a line or two still viable for the early birds. 

-Weeping Pillar - Done. Bottom pitch looks like it's melting-out fast.

-Polar Circus - Looks pretty good. The pencil is the most formed it's been this season; not climbable and I'd feel very vulnerable if I had to hang out under it for any length of time. Upper pitches look great.

On the other hand, rock climbs on Juno wall and Morro Peak are dry, and warm. Watch out for ticks! 

Play Safe, 

Jasper Visitor Safety

[MCR] Special Public Avalanche Warning

Avalanche Canada has issued a Special Public Avalanche Warning in conjunction with Parks Canada and Alberta Parks - Kananaskis Country.

 

You can see the text of the SPAW here: http://www.avalanche.ca/news/VvQXUyUAAPoYCTk8/spaw-032416

 

Karl Klassen – Manager

Public Avalanche Warning Service

www.avalanche.ca

[MCR] Rockies-Black Prince-March 24th, 2016

Pleasant white day at Black Prince. Snowed hard from 9:30 am till we left around 2pm. 10-15 cm slightly dense snow on the old crusts skied really well on the big avalanche runout at the head of the valley. We only did one lap as it was starting to get warm and the sun was poking through and warming things up even more. Still good travel right out of the parking lot

Lots of sloughing in steep terrain and we saw one Natural slab avalanche (size 2) come off a snowslope on the buttress just south left of the drainage we were below.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Ice Climbs in the Jasper and Icefields

Happy long weekend everyone,

Visitor safety technicians went for a meandering walk up Sunwapta Falls in the Beauty Creek area. The climbing is generally in good shape, good plastic-like ice and, wet but not soaking. We started early and we were well off the climb before 12:00. Ended up with one surprise boot-soaker in a pool below the second pitch on the way down and would expect more as the day progressed, we were glad to be off it early. 

Many of the climbs in the Jasper area are holding up to the spring transition fairly well...

-Climbs in Maligne Canyon are pretty much cooked. Lots of water and significant de-laminating at the top of all climbs, best to avoid. 

-Kerkeslin Falls I would expect to be in similar shape to Sunwapta Falls but we haven't received any recent reports.

-Shades of Beauty and Ric Blak seem to be holding up fairly well. Shades is wet all season long, expect it's a little worse.

-Wings and the Stage - Ice looks good but I've never trusted the large overhead cross-loaded features above. 

-Curtain Call is looking very weathered and fragile at the finish. It appears quite de-laminated above the cone, I'll be surprised if it survives the weekend, better give it a miss!

-Melt-out looked good.

-Tangle has a large and continuous crack across the bottom, seems bad...

-Harder than it Looks - Seems to be hanging in though I've never been desperate enough to get on it.

-Panther and Bridelveil - ?? 

-Mix Master - done for the season

-Weeping Wall - Photo attached taken 24/03/2016; gets a lot of sun, might have a line or two still viable for the early birds. 

-Weeping Pillar - Done. Bottom pitch looks like it's melting-out fast.

-Polar Circus - Looks pretty good. The pencil is the most formed it's been this season; not climbable and I'd feel very vulnerable if I had to hang out under it for any length of time. Upper pitches look great.

On the other hand, rock climbs on Juno wall and Morro Peak are dry, and warm. Watch out for ticks! 

Play Safe, 

Jasper Visitor Safety

[MCR] Important Changes to the MCR

Hello MCR Subscribers,

 

For over ten years ACMG members have provided professional mountain conditions observations to you via an e-mail listserve. Last year, our partner, Arc’teryx, offered to use their IT resources to develop a more modern system for providing you with these reports. After many months of discussion and beta testing, I’m excited to tell you that the system is now live! Our members have been inputting reports for the past several weeks and we are ready to unveil it to you at www.mountainconditions.com

 

The new website has significantly improved functionality compared to our previous system. This includes:

·         An interactive map identifying the geo-location of postings

·         Greater capacity to attach photos and other media that enhance your understanding of the reports

·         Search filters that allow you to home in on the specific locations and types of reports you want to see

·         A website that is optimized for use with mobile devices and tablets

·         A mobile app for iOS platforms. Get it at MCR App in the iTunes store. (An app for android platforms may be available in the future)

·         An enhanced member profile page which will allow you get a better sense of who is posting each report

·         Capability to increase the scope internationally (we hope to encourage all mountain countries to participate in the future)

The existing MCR e-mails will continue to come to you for a while as our members transition fully to the new system, but will be phased out in a short time. Because you are currently subscribed to the MCR, you will soon begin to receive e-mail notifications of new posts with links to the website. At that point you may unsubscribe from those e-mails if you prefer just to check the website whenever you wish.

 

Our partners at Parks Canada and Avalanche Canada have signed on and will continue to post avalanche-related information they believe is important for you to receive.

 

Arc’teryx has been amazing to work with and we hope that this robust system will not only give you superior reports but will encourage other mountain communities around the world to adopt the same kind of critical information-sharing for which the ACMG has become known and respected.

 

I also wanted to give a huge shout-out to ACMG Mountain Guide Tom Wolfe for his many years of effort devoted to building and moderating the e-mail system that has provided you with current data from mountain professionals. Thanks Tom!

 

Wishing you many safe and exciting adventures.

 

Peter Tucker

ACMG Executive Director

 

 

Peter Tucker
Executive Director
B: +1.403.949.3587
M: +1.403.689.4324
ed@acmg.ca  |  www.acmg.ca

 

[MCR] Rockies, Little Crowfoot Peak and Wapta Bow Hut to Sherbrooke Lake

I guided four guests up Little Crowfoot Peak (Summits & Icefields Map) on March 18th. Shockingly cold air temperatures in the parking lot, -20 C. We ascended the Ferris Glacier on the north side of the peak and it skied very nicely on the way down.

My fellow guide, Darcy Chilton, and I guided ten guests from Bow Hut across the Wapta to exit Shebrooke Lake March 19-22.

Bow Lake was well frozen mid morning of March 19th and the air temperature was much more pleasant.

Good coverage on the traverse to the Balfour Hut on March 20th with a 10 metre boot pack into the St Nic/Olive col. The Diableret Glacier skied incredibly well  that afternoon.

We had a white and windy day to cross Balfour High Col on March 21st. We chose to take the low route into the Nunatak and Hourglass. I backed out of the first slope we tried out of Balfour Col due to windslab concern in the blowing snow, I then set a track up a shallower, and smaller, chute. Once onto the glacier the visibility cheered up a bit and we found the large transverse crevasses topping the Hourglass to be well covered (these crevasses often push one uncomfortably close to Mt Balfour and its tears of seracs). With better visibility I think it would be possible, at present, to cross these slots even further towards the Nunatak and farther away from Mt Balfour.

From Balfour High Col we travelled on an eastsoutheastish bearing roped up with skins on until we could see Lilliput Mtn., we then unroped and deskinned and skied slowly when visibility allowed, and stopped and waited when it didn't. One large crevasse was come upon and traversed around.

March 22nd was a beautiful clear day and our ski out was good with splendid snow conditions and a well frozen Sherbrooke Lake. Skiing by the large slab avalanche out of the west side of Paget Peak (picture attached) got our attention and a "holy moly!" out of me.

My sympathies go out to my fellow guide, Darcy, who is skiing back into Bow Hut as I type to repeat the trip. May our hamster exit his wheel with more current information in four days time.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Bow and Guy Hut area March 14-17, 2016

From March 14th - 17th, Aaron Beardmore, myself and two park wardens completed a traverse from the Bow Hut to the new Louise and Richard Guy hut, and back.

Ski conditions were great through out the trip, with steady snowfall on the 15th and 16th giving up to 40cm of new snow (redistributed into pillows up to 100cm deep by Moderate Westerly winds).  Clearing on the 17th made for easier travel on our exit day.  Numerous cornice falls were observed to have occurred during the snowfall, triggering storm slabs up to size 2.0.

Snow depths on the icefield ranged from 240 - 280 cms in areas probed. The ascent of the glacier beside Mt. Collie involved travelling through an area with many open crevasses, this section requires careful route finding. The final approach to the Guy hut is also challenging.  We chose to descend to the hut via the ridge above, which was gained by traversing a bench at 2750m.  Several open crevasses were visible on the bench but could be avoided (photo attached).  I've also attached a kml file of the route that we chose.

Play safe out there,

Jonas Hoke

ACMG ASG

Visitor Safety Technician 

Waterton Lakes National Park

[MCR] Rockies - Ghost River - Sorcerer Rockfall Incident

Hi MCR Subscribers,

2 independent guided parties left Canmore this morning for Sorcerer, one at 0345h and another at 0400h. Parties met at the base of the route. It is possible to climb independent left and right lines (left line increases difficulty) in the upper 2 pitches if parties manage icefall in the choke (P1).

Temperature at the car at 0600h was -12C. Climbing commenced at approximately 0730h. Right now, the route gets sun for about 30 minutes initially and then another 60 minutes as the sun moves across Black Rock Mountain.

At approximately 0845h, one guided party was at the station at the top of pitch 2. The second guide was at station at the top of pitch 1 belaying his client. A rock fell from climbers' left of the P1 pillar, approximately 5m, striking the client in the helmet. The client did not lose consciousness but was unable to finish the pitch. The guide lowered the client to a mid station, rappelled, and lowered the client to the ground. The party self recovered. Picture below of the size of rock, approximately 10kg, 20cm x 10cm x 5cm.

The client was wearing a Petzl Ecrin Roc helmet. It is likely this helmet saved his life. There is no visible damage to the helmet save a few scratches.

Thanks to Mike and Aaron for waiting at the P2 belay while we descended from the climb.

Spring conditions in the mountains...

Brent Peters

Alpine Guide

Apprentice Ski Guide

PeakStratagem.com

[MCR] Avalanche Control Mt. Stephen/Dennis March 18

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on Mt. Stephen and Mt. Dennis in Yoho National Park March 18th (Friday).  No outdoor activities during this time on these peaks.

Thanks for your cooperation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

[MCR] Avalanche Control, Mt Bourgeau, Banff National Park, March 16th, 2016

Please be advised that Parks Canada will be doing explosive avalanche control on Wednesday March 16th on Mt Bourgeau on the Sunshine Village Access Road.
 
No access to this area on Wednesday.
 
Thanks for your cooperation.
 
Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Park

[MCR] Avalanche control on Tuesday - Mt Field, Mt Dennis, Mt Bosworth, Mt Whymper

Please be advised that Parks Canada will be doing explosive avalanche control on Tuesday on Mt Field, Mt Dennis, Mt Bosworth and Mt Whymper.  

 

No access to any of these areas on Tuesday.

 

Thanks for your cooperation.

 

Parks Canada Visitor Safety

Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Park

[MCR] Rocky Mountains: AVALANCHE CONTROL Banff and Yoho National Parks, Mts Field, Dennis, Stephen, and Bosworth

Hello,
Parks Canada is planning avalanche control Friday March 11 from 11AM to 13:30 PM on Mt Field, Mt Bosworth, Mt Stephen and Mt Dennis.
Please no skiing or climbing in these areas.
Thank you,

Tim Haggarty
Visitor Safety Technician | Technicien Sécurité de Visiteurs
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks | Parcs Natiounaux Banff, Yoho, Kootenay
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
Telephone | Téléphone 403-760-1352
Facsimile | Telecopieur  403-762-3240
Cell | Cellulaire  403-431-0189
tim.haggarty@pc.gc.ca
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

Conserve, Restore and Connect with Nature | Conserver, restaurer et se rapprocher de la nature

[MCR] Little Crowfoot Peak, Rockies

Hi all,

Today we skied the north facing glacier on Little Crowfoot Peak in the Bow hut area. We skied supported alpine and treeline terrain to 38 degrees. We had scattered skies in AM evolving to mainly overcast in PM with cooler temperatures ranging from -12.0C to -6.0C. Winds were light to moderate out of the South and there was evidence of yesterdays wind transport at ridge top. Ski quality was consistently good to excellent despite recent winds. Traveling conditions were also excellent and ski penetration was in the 10-15cm range. We measured over 230cm of settled snow on the glacier, the snowpack here felt firm, supportive and evenly distributed. We observed numerous passive whumpfs in shallow snowpack areas (moraines) between treeline and the toe of the glacier. We saw no other signs of instability and no new avalanches. Our main concerns were steeper shallow snowpack areas and recent wind slabs; the later concern was absent in this area today.

Great conditions and a quiet quality tour!

Cheers,

David Lussier

acmg mountain guide

http://summitmountainguides.com/

[MCR] Avalanche conditions on the Wapta, March 7th, 2016

Heads up to folks going onto the Wapta. We have received reports of two close calls in the last two days in that area. Today, there was a close call with a group traversing the last slope before the new Des Poilus Hut (Richard & Louise Guy Hut). Details of the avalanche can be found on Avalanche Canada's MIN page and see the attached photo for an approximate location.

Avalanche conditions remain tricky in Banff, Yoho and Kootenay with natural activity and avalanche danger decreasing, but the persistent weakness is still present. It is the classic low probability/ high consequence Rockies problem and will likely remain that way for a while yet.

Stick to conservative terrain and wait until conditions improve before tackling the bigger spring objectives.



Ian Jackson
ACMG  Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician | Technicien Sécurité de Visiteurs
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks | Parcs Natiounaux Banff, Yoho, Kootenay
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

Conserve, Restore and Connect with Nature | Conserver, restaurer et se rapprocher de la nature

[MCR] Parkers Ridge, Rockies

Hi all,

Today we skied at Parkers Ridge near the Columbia Icefields. There were quite a few folks out there enjoying the good snow conditions. We ventured on North facing supported Alpine and Treeline terrain to 36 degrees incline between 2500m and 2000m. We had obscured conditions in the AM and Overcast in the PM with a few welcomed blue cracks later in the afternoon. Temperatures ranged from -4.0 to near zero and freezing levels remained below surface. Snow was on the menu today, the area received up to 10cm of low density snow over the course of the day. Winds were also on the menu, we observed Moderate winds and wind transport from the West in the alpine most of the day.

Despite the ongoing winds and blowing snow the ski conditions were actually quite good on leeward protected terrain. Travel uphill was reasonable with a 20cm ski penetration. The height of snow at treeline was around 120cm. There was much variability in snowpack thickness in the Alpine but the it felt firm and supportive in deeper lee areas. We did not see any signs of instability or any new avalanches. The only test result that we observed was a moderate to hard resistant shear down 40cm. Our main concern was the ongoing wind loading forming wind slabs in steep north facing lee slopes below ridge top.

Parkers Ridge is always a bit of a drive away however; it is a great North facing road side options when conditions are warmer elsewhere.

Cheers,

David Lussier

acmg mountain guide

http://summitmountainguides.com/

[MCR] Rockies: Hydropohbia

Had a great day on Hydrophobia yesterday and found the route to be in friendly shape as its been well travelled.  We climbed through a few sections of hollow ice in the upper third but nothing was longer than a couple of body lengths and the rest of the route provided good gear wherever you wanted it.

The driving was also in good shape with a mix of frozen gravel and hard packed snow.  It is only about an hours walk from the end of the legal trail at Waiparous Creek with the first 15 minutes being a bit icy.

Have fun!

Mike Stuart

IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

CanadianAlpineGuides.com

[MCR] Campbell Icefields, Rockies

Hi all,

We just finished a fantastic ski touring week at the Campbell Icefields Chalet Northeast of Golden in the Western Rockies from February 27th to March 5th. We enjoyed excellent powder skiing at all elevations despite the unsettled weather and limited visibility. Temperatures ranged from -6.0C to -11.0C overnight to near zero during the day with freezing levels reaching 1800m later in the week. We skied between 2650m and 1600m (mostly supported terrain up to 40 degrees) in the headwaters of Bluewater creek and Waitabit creek. The area received 5cm of low density snow everyday accumulating to about 30cm of settled storm snow overlying the February 27th interface. This snow was accompanied by light to moderate winds from the Southwest at ridge top in the Alpine however there were very little winds at tree line and below. The average snowpack height at tree line in this region was 240cm; it was evenly distributed, firm and reminiscent of a Selkirk snowpack at this time. We measured upwards of 250cm on the Campbell Icefeilds and 300cm on the Bluewater Glacier.

Our main avalanche concerns were the storm slab & wind slabs overlying the recently buried February 27th interface. This weak layer was widespread and consisted of surface hoar to 4mm in sheltered areas and sun crust on solar aspects. Shear results were in the moderate range with sudden characteristics. Due to the lack of cohesion in the slab above it, this layer was unreactive to skier traffic until it warmed up to near freezing at treeline yesterday. This is when we started noticing some signs of instability like cracking and whumpfing as well as natural avalanche activity. We observed several natural slab avalanches to size 2 down 30-40cm on 35 to 40-degree terrain between 2300m and 2100m on solar aspects then. This prompted us to re-evaluate our terrain choices while decreasing our exposure to potential overhead avalanche hazard. This hazard was manageable however, it will likely remain a concern until the weak layer stabilizes.

All in all, a really good week of skiing with a fun group in true high season conditions!

Cheers,

David Lussier
acmg mountain guide
&
Lila Jansma
acmg ski guide

http://summitmountainguides.com/

[MCR] Columbia Mountains - Active Logging - Shaketown FSR

This notice is regarding the access to the Shaketown Bluffs rock climbing area in the Monashee Mountains south of Revelstoke.
Please be advised that active road building and logging will commence today March 3rd 2016 along the Shaketown FSR and continue throughout the spring and potentially summer.
Below is the extent of info from the Ministry of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations.

"Starting Thurs this week, blasting for a new road will take place, as well as hauling of timber. This means as per WCB regulations, the Shaketown FSR may be closed for a number of days. However the closure may only be in effect beyond the Shaketown parking. Caution should be taken when driving down the FSR as logging trucks will be heading up. Under a full load they will be moving quite slowly, but vehicles should be ready to move aside quickly. Of course the use of a radio is recommended."




Darek Glowacki
ACMG - IFMGA Mountain Guide
PO Box 699
Revelstoke, British Columbia, Canada
VOE 2S0
cell 250 814 8586
Darek@mail2skier.com

[MCR] Rockies: Wapta Conditions (Bow, Peyto, Balfour Hut area)

Matt Reynolds and I just got back from five days on the Wapta with the SARTECH QL5A WInter Mountain Ops course.

Synopsis: Generally unsettled weather with light snow each day and light to moderate W wind every day with some strong gusts. Temperatures often in the minus 10 range with wind chills to minus 20. Occasional Wapta style whiteouts. Several cornice collapses and isolated slab and loose avalanches noted primarily on E aspects. Fair to good travel and ski conditions. Typical snowpack depth 200 to 250cm with some thinner areas. A number of areas of open crevasses noted and we roped up for all flat and uphill travel and even some downhill travel in poor visibility. Maintained a high level of suspicion regarding crevasses and avalanches. Snowpack felt more like late January than early March… More detailed day to day discussion below.

February 27 - Bow Lake to Bow Hut: Lake now refrozen. (There were recent reports of a person falling into Bow Lake on way to Crowfoot Glades and another report of boot top water during the previous warm spell).  Travel in Canyon OK. At 11:30 witnessed a cornice collapse off the Onion that resulted in enough mass to classify as a size 2 avalanche. No  propagation on slopes below. Some cracking on flatter slopes approaching final slope below hut. Crowns from several size 2 avalanches a week or so ago above Bow Canyon still visible.

February 28 - Bow Hut to Peyto Hut: Moderate to Strong W winds overnight and light snowfall (up to 5cm). Height of snow (HS) around 300 centimeters plus on the way to the Onion. From the Onion to Peyto hut the HS is just over 200cm. Surface snow very wind affected making for fast travel but poor skiing (breakable crust) below Mt. Thompson down to hut.

February 29 - Peyto Hut to Balfour / Ascent of Vulture Peak: Another 3 - 5cm of new snow overnight with continued light to moderate W winds. Encountered two large open crevasses while traveling between Thompson and Rhondda in a whiteout. Happy to be on a rope. Good travel conditions with ski penetration varying from 10 to 20 cm. Despite recent winds, good to excellent ski quality from Olive/St. Nic col and below. A number of open crevasses below Olive / St. Ni Col. (See photo on new mountain conditions website) Fair ski quality up high on Vulture with good to excellent ski quality lower down on hero snow. Vulture Glacier has an average of 200 to 250cm of snow, less than expected!

March 1 - Balfour Hut to Bow Hut / Ascent of Onion: Another 3 - 5cm overnight with the usual light to moderate W winds. Thin windslabs forming in the alpine near ridge tops and similar features. More tedious trail breaking than yesterday with ski penetration upwards of 20cm. Occasional bouts of whiteout. New cornice collapse since yesterday fell over rocky slope on E side of Olive and produced size 2 avalanche that stopped in the top of the runout. When passing north of St. Nicholas on way back to Bow we skied near several open crevasses. (See photo on new mountain conditions website.) Probing extensively near here a week ago showed the snowpack is as thin as 100 cm near the crevasses. Many other open crevasses noted on the way from the Onion to Mt. Gordon on a recent trip. Kept the rope on until well below this area on the way down. Excellent ski quality on glacier to the Onion. Also excellent ski quality down to hut.

March 2 - Bow Hut to Bow Lake: another 5cm of new snow overnight with winds picking up in the morning again. Noted many size 1 loose sluffs in steep terrain and one size 2 loose starting above the headwall. Despite some overnight winds the first steep slope below the hut had not yet slabbed up. Some cracking and dropping down into facets and depth hoar on the flats above the canyon. Another cornice release off the East side of the Onion overnight triggered a healthy Size 2 slab 50 - 70cm deep that ran down to near the trees. Observed another new size 2 slab in the storm snow on a steep slope above the Canyon (not threatening the route) right near where several slabs released a week or two ago.) Still lots of open water in the Canyon with one creek crossing now getting a bit sketchy. Another older E facing Size 2 slab noted near alluvial fan that wasn't there four days ago (high above the flats below a cliff in rocky terrain).

Matt Reynolds MG
Cyril Shokoples MG

[MCR] Rockies - Kananaskis Ski Touring

Hi,

We toured in the Mount Murray area today and found okay skiing on north aspects with about 10-15cm of soft snow on top of a variable wind crust. There is a thin sun crust on south aspects that is buried by approx 15cm of new snow. Snowpack depths were highly variable above treeline and we turned around when we encountered thin areas connected to some larger alpine slopes. We did not see any new avalanches and there was no wind while we were out today.

All the best,

Marc Piché
403.678.7350
marc.piche@icloud.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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[MCR] S Coast Mtns Marriage Lk and E Gravell Creek.

I spent last last 5 days touring with a group in the mountains east of Mt. Currie above the Pemberton Airport. We camped at a lake known locally as "Marriage Lk" 50 15.342 N 122 42.513 W at 1900m. It's in the most easterly branch of Gravell Cr.

The area was used by Coast Range Heliskiing for the last 15 years and it was their most visited location. As far as I know very little touring happened. This fall Blackcomb Aviation aquire the tenure. Whistler Heli Skiing now infrequently uses the location.

It's a 5min flight to our campsite. I don't know of any trails leading up the valley. The location has a good combo of tree sking to steep alpine terrain.There are some small glaciers. The longest run is 1200m. We spent 4  full days going in different directions. An easyish col provides a route from the Pemberton facing N aspect to the McWalts Glacier. A further col makes a route possible to the main Gravell Creek peaks.

I will post some pictures on the FB South Coast Touring page.

If you need more info please contact me.

Dave Sarkany

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