Hi MCR Subscribers,
2 independent guided parties left Canmore this morning for Sorcerer, one at 0345h and another at 0400h. Parties met at the base of the route. It is possible to climb independent left and right lines (left line increases difficulty) in the upper 2 pitches if parties manage icefall in the choke (P1).
Temperature at the car at 0600h was -12C. Climbing commenced at approximately 0730h. Right now, the route gets sun for about 30 minutes initially and then another 60 minutes as the sun moves across Black Rock Mountain.
At approximately 0845h, one guided party was at the station at the top of pitch 2. The second guide was at station at the top of pitch 1 belaying his client. A rock fell from climbers' left of the P1 pillar, approximately 5m, striking the client in the helmet. The client did not lose consciousness but was unable to finish the pitch. The guide lowered the client to a mid station, rappelled, and lowered the client to the ground. The party self recovered. Picture below of the size of rock, approximately 10kg, 20cm x 10cm x 5cm.
The client was wearing a Petzl Ecrin Roc helmet. It is likely this helmet saved his life. There is no visible damage to the helmet save a few scratches.
Thanks to Mike and Aaron for waiting at the P2 belay while we descended from the climb.
Spring conditions in the mountains...
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
Apprentice Ski Guide
PeakStratagem.com
