[MCR] Junk yards/ grassy lakes

Conducted a program at the junkyards today,

Currently, the ice climbing area below grassy lakes known as the "junkyards"(both lower and upper), has a significantly greater amount of slip hazard, much greater than the average year. Based on my last 12 years of regular use (multiple times a month), I find that there is far more ice linking typical ice climbing sections. Where snow is usually dominant, where one usually walks on turf, or loose soil covered by crusty and faceted sugar snow, ice flows are now the current dominant surface.
It is possible for an unropped and unbelayed climber to fall long distances and accelerate to alarming speeds in many areas. Some of the zones would be deadly!

Also, there are several surface streams running on top of the ice in a few sections, likely pushed to the top from the recent cold snap.

Thirdly, there is a few good looking pillars, right of the large falls visible from the parking area. The upper main falls nearly look climbable but are still heavily undercut, several large ice avalanche have been observed in the past two days. There is enough big volume to likely reach the area just above the small pump house shack near the trail.
The track is all ice, with some big debris in places. The whole area occasionally used for low angle ice practice could easily to be considered under avalanche hazard. Not worth the risk i think.
I would not attempt to climb the pillars or walk below the pillars in the obvious path left of the approach trail I described above.

However right of the pillars is a large flow that currently looks quite reasonable to climb. However, their stability might deteriorate if the temperatures keep warming up.

Finally, plenty of low angle ice flows hidden by the recent warm sticky storm snow are waiting for unsuspecting hikers.
Hikers that usually cut steep icy sections of trail because of inappropriate footwear are currently also at an elevated risk of loosing footing, sliding and falling over cliffs or impacting trees. It would currently be difficult for inexperienced people to anticipate or see some icy sections.

Cheers
Patrick Delaney
Alpineguide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.