[MCR] Rockies, The Sorcerer, Coire Dubh Integral

I guided an ascent of The Sorcerer yesterday, March 19th. The drive in was straight forward. An established trail is set into the climb and marked with lots of pink flagging tape from the second Johnston Lake into the creek that drains the route (the pink tape continues on towards Hydrophobia). The route is in fine shape, but there is a large cornice above it. I opted to anchor a couple of metres below the top-out bulge because I didn't want to belay right under the belly of the whale, too spooky.

Today I guided an ascent of Coire Dubh Integral. The ice is in good shape. We utilized the first two mixed pitches of The Doors of Perception. Last week"s snows have buried some of the bolted anchors and there are some small wind slabs which are bonding well to the old snow surface. Moderate to strong wind gusts drove us down into Jura Creek on descent. I have nothing positive to say about the snow leading down into Jura Creek, a tedious miix of multiple breakable crusts and small crotch deep slabs. Much more supportive melt/freeze crusts lower in the creek.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




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