valley. Out of the four climbing days, Monday and Wednesday were mainly dry
and allowed us to climb a couple of peaks. The rest of the time the weather
was showery and wet. As noted everywhere else, the warm, dry summer has
taken its toll.
Aug 18, Mt. Alexandra: The West Alexandra Glacier was bare, except for the
last 300m to the Alexandra - Whiterose col. Some crevasse weaving was
necessary, but it was not too complex. Where some of the route descriptions
talk about a snow gully to start the SW slopes, we found a melted out scree
gully that had recently produced rock fall to car size. The upper 'easy snow
slopes' were dirty, rock studded ice slopes, so we ended up on scree covered
slabs instead, which made for a longer day. We bypassed the summit ice dome
on the left (W) side, but still had to put on the crampons for the last 15m
to the ice summit. Full day.
Aug 20, Rose Petal (831-568): Up the Whiterose - Rose Petal glacier
(picture), mostly easy going with 15min of weaving between some impressive
holes in the upper part. Easy, good quality rock on the E rib to the summit.
Greasy, black shale on the other side on descent down the W ridge toward the
Whirlwind col. No crevasse issues on the small N glacier toward camp.
Steeper sections with loose rock on bare ice can be avoided. This is an easy
trip that can be done in half a day with marginal weather.
Comments: A 40m rope was plenty for both trips. Flying time about 25min one
way with a Bell 407 from Golden. The camp in upper South Rice Brook (used by
the ACC GMC in the past) is comfortable, with lots of space and clean water
from a small stream on the SW side. To cross the valley going N, of the two
bridges was still in, the other creek had stepping stones in place. Not much
bear sign around camp. Bring your fossil book. When we left on Friday there
was a dusting of snow down to about 2600m.
Kobi Wyss
Mountain Guide
