[MCR] Bugaboos/Purcells

I spent Sept 15-17th in the Bugaboos with a guest.
The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is in reasonable condition with hard snow to
just above the bergshrunds. Both bergshrunds are very open with a solid
bridge to travel between them. The upper col has melted down to ice and
has just enough hard snow to hold in the loose rock. The climbers right
side has completely melted out and this has some rockfall hazard with
rocks perched on hard, steep frozen scree. Most parties were using the
chain anchors on climbers left to descend from the upper section of the
col.
The Kain route on Bugaboo is in excellent shape. There was no need for
crampons and ice axe above the col. Pigeon Spire was still holding snow
and ice on the N side on the final summit block.
The ACC Kain hut is open for another week.

Enjoy the great weather!

Kirsten

Kirsten Knechtel
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Golden, BC
www.kirstenknechtel.com
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