[MCR] Bugaboos July 16

The climbing scene in the Bugaboos over the past 4 days was quiet given the very unsettled weather. This morning's storm was the most intense in terms of precipitation amounts and electrical activity, and there was about 5cm of new snow above 2700m.  This snow will most likely melt rapidly but north facing and shadier routes could remain wet for a while.

The top 60m of the Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col at the "normal" exit point is down to ice, and rock fall is a real hazard now.  Getting onto the West Ridge of Pigeon there is about 50m of 20 degree bare ice and a large crevasse is open at the transition point from snow to ice.  The Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier has some bare ice and though still mostly snow covered, the bridges are thin and the travel around crevasses is tricky.

Of course the rock climbing in the Bugs is still as good as it gets, it's just slightly more challenging to get on it!

Lilla Molnar

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Bugaboo/Snowpatch

West Ridge of Pigeon