Following discussions with BC Parks and other stakeholders, this climb was undertaken to clean up the old rappel slings, aging fixed anchors and random pieces of gear scattered along the North Ridge. Two full backpacks of old nylon, rusted pitons, carabiners, rap rings and fixed nuts were removed leaving the route in clean condition (see photos). With some exceptions the gear removed was in poor condition. Four permanent chain anchors were installed where the majority of climbers rappel while descending the ridge. These anchors replaced large nests of old tat and rusted pitons. Significant cleaning was also done at these rappels sites to minimize rockfall in the future, although plenty of loose rock remains.
The locations of these anchors are shown in the attached photo. Each anchor is set up for a 25m rappel. The rappel anchor in the Red Band is located climbers left of the normal ascent gullies and a good trail and cairns lead down to this anchor. This location should help minimize exposure to rockfall from parties above, as well as necessitate the building of clean anchors on the ascent when using the right hand gullies. The upper three anchors are almost directly on the ridge and should be found easily. Parties climbing the route this summer should not expect to see any other old anchors or fixed protection on the ridge, and should be prepared to create their own anchors in all other locations as needed.
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Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
Parks Mountain Safety
