spectacular camp in the Adamant meadows below the toe of the Adamant
Glacier we climbed peaks in the Gothics from the south side. The
weather was challenging with rain or some showers on most days.
From a camp at 6350ft (1935m) access to the peaks in the Gothics
were attained via the glaciers on the south sides of Thor, Fria, and Wotan.
Azimuth Peak was easily attained via the Adamant Glacier with several
routes up either the N face or a small sub peak to the south, which
offered some good rock and connected to the main summit.
Of note was the lack of snow and the rapid change of some of the
standard access points. Azimuth notch was not descendible due to
hanging cornice, melt out and rock fall. An easier access to the
Adamant glacier requires continuing along the Azimuth ridge north
past a narrow section (fin of good granite) to gain a small glacier
that descends left and gains the lower glacier. This is most likely
the route skiers would use in the winter. The glacier leading to The
east col on Blackfriar or the south side of Mt Adamant is quite bare
and broken.
Access to the peaks of the Gothics is by a meadow above the toe of
the Adamant glacier,(shown as a lake on the map) and gaining a col
near the Toadstool. This route is reported to be somewhat scrappy and
loose due to the snow melt. Mt Fria was climbed by the West ridge
using the rapidly melting snow slopes on the pocket glacier under
Wotan. The ridge is generally 3rd to 4th class with some short
exposed sections. It is very lichen covered and is slippery when wet.
Mt Thor was climbed by the South ridge via some steep scree and
grassy slopes ending with a short pitch to gain the upper snow
slopes. The snow leads easily to the summit block, though as this may
melt out. The E ridge can be gained as well below the summit. A short
rappel was used at the toe of the snow to regain the steep grassy
area. (20 metres)
One party climbed Post Peak via the glacier on the west side of Thor,
gaining a steep col between Post and Gargoyle. The bergshrund on Post
Peak was rapidly melting adding some complexities in gaining the ridge.
Many of the routes that require snow access are becoming more
challenging due to the hot summer.
This is a spectacular area that is rarely visited. The views of Sir
Sanford from our camp were certainly amazing.
Here is a short video of the views from Azimuth Peak.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX3BzFZezks
Peter Amann
Kirsten Knetchel
Hamish Sanderson
Peter Amann
www.incentre.net/pamann/
