Fellow guide Jesse Petersen and I climbed Bourgeau Right today. The climb was comfortable in the sun.
The approach ice is very thin. With less than 5cms of unsupportive snow on the approach slabs, travel is challenging. We avoided as much of the approach ice as possible by walking around, except for the slabs directly below the base of the route, where one is forced to climb the ice.
The route itself is also thin, protection was generally 10-13cm screws on P1-3. Top outs were delicate. The upper pitches are thicker and weeping, but unfortunately the water is not reaching the lower part of the climb.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com
Bourgeon Right P1
