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Wednesday, November 2, 2011

[MCR] Trick or Treat & The Sorcerer; ice climbs; rockies.

Climbed Trick or Treat today.

Climb was in good shape, but with somewhat dry and brittle ice.

Approach was also in good shape, with a thin layer of wind-hardened snow stabilizing the scree. We followed faint tracks and animal trails, generally to the climbers left of the creek bed initially, then generally to the climbers right higher up.

As of last Friday, The Sorcerer (Ghost River) was in, but thin and dry.  Stubbies were needed and in some sections the ice was less than 10cm thick.  We retreated from the base of the steeper climbing (last 2 pitches), which at the time looked unprotectable, or at least very hard to protect.

Approach was dry and we wore sneakers to the base of the route.
---
Josh Briggs
Consulting Geologist / IFMGA Mountain Guide
☎ 403.609.9153

[MCR] Murchison Falls


Chris Gooliaff
ACMG AAG/ASG
Visitor Safety Specialist
Banff/Yoho/Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Ice conditions on the Icefields Parkkway


Chris Gooliaff
ACMG AAG/ASG
Visitor Safety Specialist
Banff/Yoho/Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Selkirk Mtns - Rogers Pass - Bruins Pass Nov.2/2011

Greetings early season keeners,

 

I couldn’t afford a helicopter, so went for a tour with fellow guide Anne Keller up Connaught Ck. today, eventually  ending up at Bruins Pass via 8812 bowl.

 

Weather was broken cloud with no snowfall, and I noted moderate wind transport from the west along the higher Alpine ridges (above 2300m.)

 

Quite good early season coverage (emphasis on EARLY), with @60-80cms of snow in the valley bottom and upwards of 120cms once you are above 2000m.

 

The snowpack feels like a typical well settled early season snowpack, with no significant shears observed.

 

There are 2 exceptions to the above statement:

- one is some isolated wind slabs (approx. 10cms thick) that had formed higher up where the wind had some effect, may be more prominent in the higher alpine which I didn’t observe.

 

-  the second, which is more of a concern, is a well developed Surface Hoar layer(those feathery crystals that form on the surface during clear calm weather). This layer formed in October and was probably buried October 20th – we observed this layer in a profile done Oct.27/2011 at 2300m. on McCrae Pk. (@ 30km. south of Revelstoke in the Selkirks)

 

– (I know not everyone is familiar with this all these test – but I include it for those who are)- we found well preserved crystals 10-15mm. in size positioned 45cms from the ground, which produced clean shears(Sudden Planar) in 2 compression test at the high end of the moderate range, we also tried an Extended Column test which did not propagate across the wider column – then we did a Propagation Saw test which failed once we had cut just 25cms into the weak layer and the failure propagated to the end of the column.

 

-          What that means to me is that I would be a bit leery of steeper glaciated features above 2300m. (like Youngs Peak Headwall and Mt. Rogers), until I get a better handle on the distribution and reactivity of this layer.

No significant avalanche activity observed today.

 

Cheers,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

 

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

[MCR] Northern Selkirks- Durrand Glacier Chalet

This is posted on behalf of Mountain Guide Ruedi Beglinger.
 
This morning (November 1st 2011) I flew to the Durrand Glacier Chalet, Northern Selkirk Mountains, to check the early winter snowpack. Height of snow at the Durrand Glacier Chalet snow study plot (tree-line 1946 m elev.) 153cm. Foot penetration was 75cm and ski penetration 25cm. The snowpack at tree-line and in the alpine showed good consolidation. While skiing from Woolsey Peak down Boogie Basin we experienced great powder snow. I have placed a short video on YouTube, please find the link below.
We had a great day skiing.

[MCR] Shades of Beauty - Beauty Cr. - Icefields Parkway (north)

Hey all,

A little bit dated, but went up and climbed Shades of Beauty on the north end of the Icefields Parkway last week. It's in... but just barely. We took up a bit of rock gear (knife-blade pins) and were happy to have them, seemed nicer for the belays anyways. First half of the first pitch was barely thick enough for stubbies (10cm ice screws), I'm sure if you felt like you wanted it though you could protect it pretty easily with rock gear on the climbers left. Once you past the half way mark on the 1st pitch was definitely easier to find good screws and thread-throughs for pro on the ice.
2nd and 3rd pitches were fun, with some funky chandeliery type features to navigate through. Pro wasn't the greatest on the whole, but enough good placements to get the job done. 
Aside from the pro, it felt like pretty reasonable WI4, plenty of positive features to stand on and pretty easy to keep the weight off of your arms.

All round, pretty good day out! 
If your happy climbing thiner chandeliered ice, should be a good time, go for it! And if not, bet if you gave it a week maybe two given the forecast it will have fattened up enough to give you the warm and fuzzies when you go to climb above that last screw.

Have fun out there!


Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Alpine Guide & Assistant Ski Guide
www.yamnuska.com
mike@cloudnineguides.com

[MCR] Parkway

Just wondering if anyone has some recent info regarding the amounts of new snow that has fallen around the icefields over the past 4-5 days.

I'm heading up there tomorrow.

Thanks

Kris Irwin - Director
Rockies Ice Specialists Inc.
http://www.rockies-ice.com/
www.facebook.com/RockiesIce
Twitter: @rockiesice
Phn: 403-763-7018
Banff, Alberta, Canada

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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