[MCR] Weeping Wall

It was snowing steadily at the Weeping Wall today. Approx 7-8cms of wet snow fell between our arrival at 0900 and departure at 230pm. We only used the first 30m of low angle ice on the lower wall. The ice was in good shape but quickly getting covered in a layer of wet snow.

2 parties ascended the left side and 1 party ascended the far right line. Sorry, I didn't get any info on ice quality from either group.

The biggest hazard today was the drive back to Banff. Freezing rain started just south of the weeping wall turning the icy road into a skating rink. The hwy was closed as I drove through the gates at 4pm. I counted 4 cars in the ditch between Lake Louise and Banff.

Be careful driving out there.

Kris Irwin - ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Howsons 3 Jan 12

During a set-up day at Burnie, I skied to the Solitaire Meadows. it was
snowing heavily most of the day. The lodge received 23 cm today and sits
at 219. I heard several medium sized avalanches from the Hut Cliffs, but
ski cutting of steep pockets led only to sluffing. The temperatures are
rising and I expect natural avalanches to run, but could see very little.

The snow coverage is very deep for this time of the year. No alder are
showing and the creeks are filled in.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Marble Canyon

My climbing partner and I enjoyed a quiet day at Marble Canyon today - nobody else there.

Tokkum Pole is quite featured for the first 8m or so due to all the traffic of climbers over the holidays. This makes the start challenging to find good pro - beware if you're pulling your rap lines in and committing to the lead out.

Swine Dive and Fantasy Shower are in good shape but you can't top out on Fantasy Shower(like the guidebook describes) in its current condition.

The ice shelves at the base are solid in most spots. No soakers today.

Climbers - if you can help it, try not urinate on the snow and ice around the base of the routes. It's unsightly and it will start to smell like the big ledge on El Cap. It all ends up in the water anyway so pee in the water. Dilution is the solution in this case.

Have fun out there

Kris Irwin - ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com

Sent from my iMachine
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Bourgeau Slide Paths

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on the Bourgeau slide
paths on the Sunshine Road tomorrow Jan 4th, 2012.

No outdoor activities are permitted in this area tomorrow.

Thank you for your cooperation and understanding.

Aaron Beardmore
Specialist, Visitor Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay Parks
Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1415
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.facebook.com/parksmountainsafety
www.twitter.com/ParksMtnSafety

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies-Ghost ice- the Fang and the Fist and the Rat and the Tat

Climbed the Fang and the Fist in the Ghost on saturday the 31st. Good challenging driving for a moderate clearance 4x4 on marked trail to Malamute valley. Lots of water to 30cm deep- brakes still freezing up today. Route is in good shape, first 5 m's is the crux with hooking chandeliers and hard to protect until you reach the 1st ledge. Good stout grade 4/5 climbing on all three steep sections and the hooking gets more secure after that first bit. We got off in 3 rope stretching rappels with one 70m rope.

No avalanche hazard at present on the route but walking off looked like it might involve crossing some nasty drifts/windslabs with death-consequence rides

Interestingly, packrats had completely eaten the exposed part of the abalokovs at the top. Wasn't sure what had happened till I noticed the rat raisins around the tat. Never seen that before, the damage should be obvious but it is just another reason to back up abalokovs with more abalokovs.

Happy New Year,
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Weeping Wall

Guided the Weeping Wall today. -25 at the parking lot at 10am but the sun hit the wall at 10:15 and warmed everything up fast.
Climbed the right hand line for the first pitch and avoided the bolts in the cave because of the brittle hanging daggers above. We would have had an exposed belay if we continued up on the right hand route so we climbed the rest of the route more toward the center.
In general there is a lot of poor quality ice on the weeping wall right now. Much of the wall is covered in crusty snow/ice that needs to be cleaned away to find better ice.
I'm sure with some more traffic and a few sunny days that the ice will improve quickly.
Happy New Year!

Rob Owens
Mtn guide.
Www.onwardup.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Avalanche control on Mt. Bourgeau Monday Jan 2

Parks Canada is planning to do avalanche control on Mt Bourgeau tomorrow - Monday, January 2. Please no outdoor activities in this area tomorrow.

Photo of avalanche control on Mt Bosworth today