[MCR] Columbia Icefields

Spent the week at the Icefields teaching a mountaineering course and found generally good conditions overall.  

The snow and wind from last week has made travel better below 2700 meters as the footing is more secure over the glacial ice and was only boot top deep at best.  Above this elevation windslabs are a growing concern on N and E aspects and there were areas with up to 60cms of foot penetration.  Glacier travel is becoming a bit more challenging as the new snow is starting to hide the crevasses so prudent travel techniques and a ski pole for probing are valuable tools right now.

As of yesterday there was no snow at the Icefields campground but that may be changing currently and it officially closes in the next few days.  There is no water available from the normal tap as a pipe broke last week from cold temperatures so we were getting it from the Icefields centre.

All of the ice faces looked just that..icy and grey, blown snow free from strong winds.  The big mixed routes (A Strain, Grand Central, etc) looked to be lacking ice in places where you would want it but that was from a fair distance away.

   Have fun!

Matt Peter

Darek Glowacki

Mike Stuart

ACMG Guides

CanadianAlpineGuides.com

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 12, 2012

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 12, 2012 The extended Indian Summer that we all have been enjoying came to a halt this week with cooler temperatures and fresh snow at upper elevations. Most areas in the Rockies and Rogers Pass are reporting the snow-line at around the tree-line elevation. On south aspects it is more of a dusting, but north aspects (especially along the divide) are looking pretty white. The forecast for the weekend is showery with valley bottom lows near zero and highs in the low to mid teens. It is a safe bet to assume that there will be pockets of wind slab on the higher peaks along the divide. The Columbia Icefields reported good fall climbing conditions with most of the ice faces showing bare ice (having been blown free of snow from recent strong winds). Anybody venturing into the high alpine (especially on glaciated terrain) should be prepared to make avalanche hazard assessment decisions. For example guides avoided the North Ramp Route on Athabasca due to wind slab conditions. Boot top trail-breaking on the glaciers can be expected. Be cautious with glacier travel as the recent snow will be hiding the crevasses but not providing much bridging strength. Once the weather settles down the alpine mixed season should be coming into shape, but early season waterfall ice climbing is probably still a couple of weeks from being in. Ski season? Check your enthusiasm, it is still only October. Brian Webster ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Tunnel Mt - The Shoe

Hello,
 
We will be doing some cleaning on the route the "The Shoe" on Tunnel Mountain in Banff tomorrow through Saturday (Oct 11-13). Please avoid the area for climbing on these days.
 
Thank you,
 
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
UIAGM/ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Closures in Yamnuska area

Two closures will occur in the Yamnuska and Yamnuska Bluffs areas due to blasting operations at the Lafarge Quarry on the following dates:
 
Closure 1: Tuesday Oct 9 from 10pm until Wednesday Oct 10 at approximately midday.
 
Closure 2: Tuesday Oct 16 from 10pm until Wednesday Oct 17 at 5pm.
 
Times are subject to change. All activities are restricted in this area during the closure.
 
Thank you for your cooperation.

Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety

[MCR] Revelstoke, new route on Victorl Lake Wall

Hello everybody

One week ago I climbed together with Cam Molder, Manuela Arnold and Eric Dafoe a new route on the Victor Lake Wall, 14.4 km west of Revelstoke, directly above the lake and the Trans Canada Highway. The route offered all clean climbing on good rock. It is mostly bolted (ground up) but several sections need gear placements. 10 pitches, 5.10c, gear cams 0.5 to 2 inches, 5 shoulder size slings and single 70 m or double 60 m ropes. After the climb easy walk off back down to the highway, 30 minutes. 

Conditions in Revelstoke are perfect for longer rock routes on south facing walls. Cold nights and great temperatures during the day. I usually start the climbs at 09:00 AM and enjoy the warm radiation of the autumn sun. It is still great to be out there every day ......

Enjoy climbing
Ruedi Beglinger
I.F.M.G.A. / A.C.M.G Mountain Guide
info@selkirkexperience.com
www.selkirkexperience.com

[MCR] Robson S face oct 6th.

Climbed the S face of Robson yesterday from the Forster hut and descended to the highway. Long day that!

Trail is in good but really bushy shape. Route below the hut through the final headwall seems a little better than the one on the old topo and gets more sun(snow free quicker)

Hut is kinda sad and the outhouse is all out/no house. We left a canister stove, fuel, booties and two sheets to cover the rat chewed mattresses at the hut. There is dishes, pots, cutlery and mattresses. Not much else. It could use some love/work.

Icefalls on the S face are really nasty these days. it has been about 10 years for me and the ice threatening the route to Little Robson and the Schwarz ledges seems to have really advanced in a negative and scary way.

Approx 20-40cm snow from the Hut up depending on wind effect. Schwarz ledges had around 20cm dense snow that made for mercifully fast travelling. We climbed up and down the ridge beside the Great Couloir and exited between 2 gargoyles onto the summit plateau. Only windslabs were on the last gentle 50m to the summit.

Lots of nice looking ice runnels forming in the alpine quartzite south of Jasper this morning. Things seem much drier and leaner on the big classics mixed routes around the Columbia Icefields.

Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Garibaldi North East Face

Just got back from a two day trip up to the Summit of Mt. Garibaldi via the North East face from Brohm Ridge. Last night there was strong north winds, and at camp this morning at 6:00am it was -8c. The 2140m camp at the end of the moraine that connects to Brohm Ridge, still has running water in the evening.  Having a tent in a stratovolcano dust storm last night was a bonus. Travel on the now rock hard snow that took ok ice screws,  made for fast travel on strong crevasse bridges and railway spike bomber snow pickets.  Crevasses and Burgschrunds are quite the zig sagging maze right now on the NE route.  We enjoyed no wind at 0c on the summit for an hour with hot coffee and soup. There is a T slot picket with some cord left behind to rappel over the schrund on the way down.  By 300pm the snow-ice only softened up on the top 1cm where there was direct sunlight.  Max temp of +5c at 2140m.  No rock or ice falls observed. With the forecast of cool sunny weather for the next week, it is still a great time to get into the mountains!  

Play safe. 

Crosby Johnston  
IFMGA / ACMG Mountain Guide  
Altus Mountain Guides
www.altusmountainguides.com
cell: 1 778 266 0022 

NE Face Photos