Yesterday, April 3rd, we retreated from the approach slopes to Pilsner Pillar at 6:30 am because it was too close to 0 Celsius and there had been rain in the wee hours. We salvaged our day of picture taking on the diminutive climb, The Waterworks. There is a good trail leading to that area right now and no avalanche threat at all.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
[MCR] Rockies, Massey's
I facilitated a photo shoot on Massey's today, April 2nd. We approached via the train tracks as the Kicking Hoarse River has opened up in the last week. A decent freeze in Field last night saw a supportive crust and plastic ice. The route is in good shape with some sun affected ice and some shiny new ice surfaces. The temps rose above freezing at about 11:30 am and we skedaddled.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
[MCR] Mt. Jimmy Simpson
Attempted Mt. Jimmy Simpson today hoping for a solid freeze and a good corn run before the next storm moves in. At 4:30 a.m it was -2 and the crust was only 2 cm thick and moist underneath. The crust was supportive with skis, but not for long! I would guess that the crust would last 15 minutes or less once the sun hits it. We pulled the pin on the benches above the flats.
Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
Monday, April 1, 2013
[MCR] Collier Peak, Lake Louise Group, April Fools Day
I headed up Collier Peak with a friend via the Lake O'Hara road early this morning. We found barely supportive crusts in the forest below 2000m in the a.m. Higher up in the drainage, north of the Watchtower, fast travel was found on a bomber sun and wind crust. The Collier Glacier toe was stripped of snow by down-flow winds, the mid-section of the glacier had 5-10cm boot penetration into '4-finger' density snow, and the last 150m to the ridgecrest was variable, with isolated lenses of non-reactive wind slabs. The bergschrund was bridged by 2.3+m of snow. I've never been there in the summer, so I don't know how large this hole really is, other than looking at Google Earth images.
No shears noted in the mid-upper snowpack, -7*C at 9am below the face, and no winds gave us the confidence to explore onto this large, unsupported feature. On the way out, slopes with sun had nicely corned up and gave great skiing. The forest below 2000m had turned to unpleasant mashed potatoes, but still "skiable" in a long traverse back to the road.
A great tour in these fantastic spring conditions.
Chris Gooliaff
IFMGA/ACMG MG
[MCR] Avalanche Ratings in Spring Conditions
Every year it seems that there is a debate of what to call the avalanche
danger in the public bulletin when true spring conditions have arrived. IE:
frozen solid and LOW danger in the mornings rising to wet and unstable HIGH
or EXTREME conditions by late in the day, but there is only one forecast
rating for the 24 hr period. Should the rating default to the highest
possible danger to warn people that avalanches are almost certain at some
time in the day, or default to the lower end because travel while frozen
has almost no avalanche danger, or pick somewhere in between?
At various times the terms "Variable", "Not Rated*(*see text, )", and
"Spring" have been used to overcome this dilemma rather than pick a single
rating, but this approach is not standardised to the North American Danger
Scale
It is important to remember that avalanche danger varies both spatially
(over terrain) and temporally (over time). We have no problem understanding
that the danger may be different in different places in the terrain and can
certainly think about danger improving or decreasing over time periods of
several days. The issue with spring conditions is that the temporal swing
in danger happens rapidly within the period of 24 hrs normally covered by a
public bulletin, (or a commercial operational forecast), so it really is
a question of timing and aspect to determine the specific danger.
When I am asked how the danger can be rated as "LOW" when there have been a
number of large avalanches observed on a given day, I think about it this
way. "Where in the terrain would it be possible to go and not be subjected
to avalanche danger on that day, and how long during the day would it be
possible?" (space and time). If there have been clear cold nights with a
good solid freeze and the answer is that you could go almost anywhere and
have solid snow conditions and have them for a reasonable amount of time,
then obviously the danger must be LOW. The bulletin user has to understand
that timing is part of the equation. Conversely, if there was cloud cover,
very little freeze and there would likely be stability problems during the
majority of the day, the danger would have to be higher.
"LOW" does not mean "NO AVALANCHES" It takes into account the fact that
there is a swing in danger during the day, but that for the average
bulletin user who can understand that ice melts when heated above zero, the
conditions are excellent and it is the time to take advantage of the
conditions.
This last week has been one of the best weeks of ski touring in the Rockies
for some time. Excellent freezes with very little in the way of avalanche
concerns and good travel. We use the headline to highlight the importance
of good timing, and give the users the "Green Brick". Go have some fun. It
is the right time to do the big trips. Use your head , start early, keep an
eye on the temperatures and the faces that are exposed to the sun and
enjoy! Come home before the avalanches start....and the danger to you will
be LOW.
Brad White
Visitor Safety Programs Specialist
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
danger in the public bulletin when true spring conditions have arrived. IE:
frozen solid and LOW danger in the mornings rising to wet and unstable HIGH
or EXTREME conditions by late in the day, but there is only one forecast
rating for the 24 hr period. Should the rating default to the highest
possible danger to warn people that avalanches are almost certain at some
time in the day, or default to the lower end because travel while frozen
has almost no avalanche danger, or pick somewhere in between?
At various times the terms "Variable", "Not Rated*(*see text, )", and
"Spring" have been used to overcome this dilemma rather than pick a single
rating, but this approach is not standardised to the North American Danger
Scale
It is important to remember that avalanche danger varies both spatially
(over terrain) and temporally (over time). We have no problem understanding
that the danger may be different in different places in the terrain and can
certainly think about danger improving or decreasing over time periods of
several days. The issue with spring conditions is that the temporal swing
in danger happens rapidly within the period of 24 hrs normally covered by a
public bulletin, (or a commercial operational forecast), so it really is
a question of timing and aspect to determine the specific danger.
When I am asked how the danger can be rated as "LOW" when there have been a
number of large avalanches observed on a given day, I think about it this
way. "Where in the terrain would it be possible to go and not be subjected
to avalanche danger on that day, and how long during the day would it be
possible?" (space and time). If there have been clear cold nights with a
good solid freeze and the answer is that you could go almost anywhere and
have solid snow conditions and have them for a reasonable amount of time,
then obviously the danger must be LOW. The bulletin user has to understand
that timing is part of the equation. Conversely, if there was cloud cover,
very little freeze and there would likely be stability problems during the
majority of the day, the danger would have to be higher.
"LOW" does not mean "NO AVALANCHES" It takes into account the fact that
there is a swing in danger during the day, but that for the average
bulletin user who can understand that ice melts when heated above zero, the
conditions are excellent and it is the time to take advantage of the
conditions.
This last week has been one of the best weeks of ski touring in the Rockies
for some time. Excellent freezes with very little in the way of avalanche
concerns and good travel. We use the headline to highlight the importance
of good timing, and give the users the "Green Brick". Go have some fun. It
is the right time to do the big trips. Use your head , start early, keep an
eye on the temperatures and the faces that are exposed to the sun and
enjoy! Come home before the avalanches start....and the danger to you will
be LOW.
Brad White
Visitor Safety Programs Specialist
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
[MCR] Rockies, Yoho and Little Yoho Valleys
Sun crusts had formed on sunny aspects on Mt McArthur when we boot packed to the top of Isolated Peak on March 28th. Several parties have made it over Isolated Col in the last week. Challenging skiing down old tracks in the dark after they had refrozen, but great photos of the President in the setting sun.
Skiing out yesterday wet snotty afternoon avalanches where roaring down from the steep cliffs Wapta Mountain and Mt Field. There are HUGE cornices on the ridgeline of Wapta Mountain and I glancied to them constantly to see if they were staying put as we skied beneath them at noon.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
Takakkaw Falls on March 26th
[MCR] hydrophobia/Waiperous
I guided Hydrophobia yesterday March 31. The road in was ok with a high clearance 4X4 vehicle. We left my Tacoma at the creek crossing before the hill and walked from there (1.5 hrs walk to base). Luckily on the way back we got a ride with a pathfinder who had a winch and we had to use it. In the PM, the road out where we left my truck was a river.
The route itself was in pretty good shape except a section on the last pitch had aerated ice, which was hard to protect (the gear was good, just had to work hard to find it) and didn't gave huge confidence in the tool placements.
Cryophobia was falling apart in the PM.
Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
The route itself was in pretty good shape except a section on the last pitch had aerated ice, which was hard to protect (the gear was good, just had to work hard to find it) and didn't gave huge confidence in the tool placements.
Cryophobia was falling apart in the PM.
Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
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