[MCR] Takakkaw Falls Route

Climbed this route with Martin yesterday.
The final belay before the cave had a tray sized block perched 3m above it. I managed to carry/slide it down to a ledge below the belay but there is still some loose rock in place that could be dislodged when climbing or pulling your ropes whilst rappelling.
Also - the final bolt hanger on the long traverse pitch into the corner system has been hit by rockfall and bent over. You can still clip it but it would be good if it could be replaced sometime.
Cheers,
Steve Blagbrough.
 
 

[MCR] The Valhalla guidebook project

Hi all,

After much consideration Cameron Shute and I have decided to take on the task of writing and publishing a modern guidebook dedicated exclusively to the Valhalla mountain range.  We are planning to work extensively on this project over the next two years and hope it will be completed and available for the public by the spring of 2015.

For various reasons, the historical climbing records of the Valhalla's are poor. In an effort to create an accurate resource, we are reaching out to the broader climbing community. We are looking for new route information that has not previously been made public or comments on erroneous descriptions and grade discrepancies of established routes. Please contact us directly if you would like to share some information at: info@valhallaguide.ca.

Feel free to pass this announcement on to other folks who could potentially contribute. For more information on this project you can click on this link:

http://summitmountainguides.com/blog/comments/the_valhalla_guidebook_project/

We look forward to hearing from you, in the meantime have a great summer!

David Lussier & Cameron Shute

[MCR] Swiftcurrent Glacier / Whitehorn

I spent the past week guiding Art Maki and his daughter out of a camp
at 2200m on the Swiftcurrent Glacier.

The glaciers have good coverage and are in good condition right now
allowing access to most peaks in the area. Firn line extends down to
approximately 2500m but things are drying out quickly. The snowpack
was support allowing excellent travel, with good overnight freezes and
decent travel even late in the day on most aspects.

Whitehorn W ridge is in good shape and the NW glacier accessing it
allows relatively uncomplicated passage right now. July 31 the ridge
was verglassed and dusted with snow, which slowed things down a bit,
but by early afternoon it had dried out again for the descent. Rap
anchors are generally in good condition.

We had a good look at the "Ramps" on Whitehorn's south side that are
the traditional way of accessing the W Ridge / Swiftcurrent, and they
look ugly, with multiple gaping schrunds/crevasses/seracs. Not
recommended.

The "Longstaff" peaks and the "Carcajou" peaks (the latter being
climbed, cairned, and named covertly by members of the Grizzly Group
in 1992 according to the summit registers...) are all good to go.

Access to Mt Phillips looks challenging right now with broken glaciers
and seracs threatening approaches to the climbing routes.

Getting on and off the toe of Swiftcurrent Glacier from the south
right now is complicated by the fact that you need to cross the river
-- it lives up to the name "Swiftcurrent", and it's pretty exciting.

--
Regards,

Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
www.sawback.com
Canmore, Alberta
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Rockies, NE Ridge Ha Ling, Mt Niblock

I guided an ascent of the NE Ridge of Ha Ling Peak on Wednesday, July 31. It may now be said of the route -if you are not at a shiny two bolt ring and chain anchor, you are in the wrong place.

August 1,2 I guided the scramble route on Mt Niblock from Lake Agnes (two seperate day climbs). The route is in scramble condition, no need to touch snow and no need of ice axe or crampons.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Bow Hut, Wapta Icefield July 30 - Aug 2

I guided from July 30 - August 2 out of Bow Hut with several other guides on the Yamnuska cadet program.

We had great weather with almost no precipitation, and light freezes most nights.  We probed 120cm - 220cm of snow on the glacier, just west of St. Nicholas Peak.  

Travel was good in the mornings on firm snow.  By noon each day the sun cupped surface and soft snow required more effort to travel on.

The snow cover is thin part way up the Bow Glacier toe above the Bow Hut, and it is difficult to see the crevasses.  The snow over the crevasses is weak;   wearing the rope and having training and equipment for rescue is highly recommended.

Regards,

Jordy Shepherd

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

CAA Professional Member

www.PeakAlpine.com

[MCR] Bear Closures in Glacier National Park

Hello Everyone,

The following message is from Resource Conservation in Mount Revelstoke/Glacier National Park:

"A grizzly bear female and her two cubs have been frequenting the trails in the vicinity of the Asulkan and the Illecillewaet. In order to prevent grizzly bears from being disturbed and/or displaced during their use of this important habitat, and for visitor safety reasons the following trail closures and restrictions:

 The Avalanche Crest trail is closed.

·         All use of the Avalanche Crest Trail and Avalanche Creek basin in Glacier National Park is prohibited.

·         Note that this closure prevents access to climbing routes on Avalanche Mountain and Eagle Peak.

 A group size restriction is in place on all trails in the Asulkan and Illecillewaet drainages.

·         This specifically affects access to all alpine routes in the Sir Donald, Asulkan and Bonney Groups.

·         Parties must travel in groups of 4 or more. The maximum distance between two individuals must not exceed 3 metres and should be less when sight or hearing is reduced by the physical surroundings.

Please refer to the closure map attached to plan your trips in Glacier Park.

Play Safe This Long Weekend,

Paddy Jerome
Visitor Safety Technician
ACMG/IFMGA
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@pc.gc.ca
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 1, 2013

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 1, 2013 What a month! Superb weather through all of July has created near perfect alpine conditions in the Columbia and Rocky Mountains. Dry rock and firm snow resulting from intermittent freezing has led to good travel on the snow, and good climbing on the rock. But alas, it's raining on the window as I write this; the weather is changing. The typical indicator areas that we use to benchmark the mountain conditions are as follows: The Bugaboo/Snowpack col is in good shape; the bergshrund is easily passed, and the whole slope remains snow covered except for a final short bit of ice and dirt. The North Face of Temple is dry, and now it the time. The West Face of Lefroy is icy and starting to melt out, and rockfall should be expected. It's that time of the summer to start thinking of alternatives to climbing Lefroy. The South Ridge of Victoria is in excellent shape, as is the Northeast Ridge of Sir Donald. And Robson? Well July 31, 2013 marked one-hundred years to the day that Conrad Kain, Albert McCarthy and William Foster stood on the summit. Congratulations to the team who made yesterday's centennial ascent of the Kain Face in "perfect weather; perfect conditions". Nice touch! So the conditions are great, but the weather is changing. After an extended period of high pressure, unstable air has moved in along with an uncertain weather forecast. Expect rain at times over the coming days, especially in the afternoon accompanied by thunder and lightening. Check the weather forecast regularly, get up in the dark, move fast, and get off the mountain early. Grant Statham ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.