[MCR] Mount Garibaldi NE Face - Coast Mountains, July 4 2014

Hi MCR readers,

Guided the NE face of Mount Garibaldi yesterday via the Brohm Ridge.  The route is in great and relatively easy shape.   

Approach:  The normal road to Brohm Ridge is closed as a bridge is out, you must continue up the road past Cat Lake.  10km from the highway to the final locked gate.  The road was fine for my stock Tacoma, some loose rocky section but otherwise ok for a 4x4 with good clearance. 

From the Sledders cabin the route is pretty much entirely on snow.  The snow was well set up both in the morning and afternoon on return.  I wouldn't expect any issues with this snow except after a rain event.

Route:  Once on the glacier we encountered some very large bridged crevasses but with careful route selection the trip up to the Bergchrund was uneventful and straightforward.   The Bergchrund was passed on the left side easily with one steep section to the snow arete.  From the summit we reversed our tracks with out any sort of rappel.   A previous party had ascended and rappelled the middle direct section of the Bergschrund.  This didn't look possible to climb up anymore but with a fixed snow anchor it would be possible to rappel.  However i don't think this would be any faster than the line we took.  

Excellent conditions!!  I would highly recommend taking advantages of the nice glacier travel and straightforward Bergschrund and climb this peak sooner than later. 

The Bergschrund looking out towards the snow arete 

Our ascent and decent line 

Ross Berg

Mountain Guide (IFMGA / ACMG) - Altus Mountain Guides

Email: ross@altusmountainguides.com

Web: www.altusmountainguides.com

[MCR] Mt Shark to Assiniboine Trail Report July 2-4, 2014

Hi All

- Length of trail from Mt. Shark to Assiniboine Pass generally in good condition with a few mild wash-out areas along debris chutes/ avalanche paths.

No bridge over Bryant Creek on "Upper Assiniboine Pass Trail", instead, log breaching the creek.

- Assiniboine Pass down to O'Brien Meadows: Meadows are wet; wading through run-off along path is required at a few spots; remainder of trail to Assiniboine in good condition.

- Trail system within Mt. Assiniboine Park well maintained and mostly in good conditions; some remaining snow patches/muddy areas in higher elevation or in sheltered areas.

- Wonder Pass to Mt Shark Trail Head: Wonder Pass has numerous large snow patches remaining, along with run-off and muddy sections. (Please stay on trail as much as possible , to prevent trail - braiding and to protect the fragile mountain  flora)  :-)

Remainder of route to Mt Shark T.H. mostly in good condition.

Caution -  you are in prime bear habitat along all routes!

A great time in the mountains    Happy Trails, Martina :-)

ACMG Day Hiking Guide

[MCR] Mt Sir Donald NW Ridge, Rogers Pass, Selkirk Mtns

On July 2nd, I climbed the NW Ridge of Mt Sir Donald. The soft snow on the approach slopes (no overnight freeze and fairly warm temps) made for easy step-kicking to the col. Crampons and an ice axe would be useful if it were to freeze.

Most of the ridge is in excellent dry condition. Short sections of snow are easily negotiated by going around them or kicking steps up them. The last steeper bit, just before the summit, is quite snowy as is the rest of the way to the peak. The snow was isothermal and very unconsolidated.

The West Face Bypass is hazardous to use at this time. I saw and heard lots of rockfall and small wet sluffs. The lower portion of the bolted rappel line on the West Face is being affected by rockfall from patches of melting snow. I watched it get peppered by rocks, so I opted to continue back down to the Uto-Sir Donald col along the NW ridge.

All in all, the route is in pretty good shape but because of the snow near the top, be prepared to rappel short sections you normally would down-climb (extra sling/cord to back up the rap anchors would be handy).

If camping out, the the bivy sites at the Uto-Sir Donald Col are dry with snow nearby to melt for water.  Bivy biffy is in good condition and accessible for use.

--

Dean Flick

ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 3, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 3, 2014 Summer has finally arrived in the Rockies and Interior, with warm weather and clear skies over the past three days and forecast into next week. Alpine routes are being reported in great shape right now with good overnight freezes providing excellent travel on firm snow which is melting and settling very quickly right now. With the heat and the short nights very early starts (and early descents) are necessary to avoid difficult or dangerous isothermal snow conditions which have been developing as early as mid-morning. Deep postholing, weak crevasse bridging, rock fall, avalanche hazard, and increased serac activity are hazards that will increase as the day heats up. Sun exposed alpine rock routes, such as Mt. Louis, Achilles Spire, Mt. Tupper, Uto Peak, Castle Mountain, and south facing rock routes in the Bugaboos are getting climbed and reported in good early season condition, meaning there will likely be some seepage or snow patches to work around. Snowline in the Rogers Pass area was around 1900 m a few days ago, and in the Icefields Parkway it was around 2400 m on the north side of Mt. Athabasca yesterday. Last weekend during a mini traverse I made with a group from Bow Lake to Peyto Lake we had excellent snow coverage on the glacier and straightforward travel. On the North Athabasca glacier yesterday there were isothermal conditions (with some thigh-deep post-holing in thin areas) lower on the glacier already at 10:00 am. I noticed a couple of recent, though small, slab avalanches in the Icefields area this week, and echo Marc Piche's concern from last week: "Considering the challenging winter we just finished and in particular the deep instability that was the cause of many very large avalanches, it might be prudent to treat large snow slopes in the alpine with caution. In the past, these deep persistent instabilities have occasionally come back to life in the early summer before the snow pack has completely settled for the season." Other considerations as you plan your days will include afternoon thundershowers and increasing flow rates in creeks and rivers with the thaw up high. The Athabasca climber's parking lot has now been replaced with a large Snowcoach staging area, so the days of driving around the gate are over -– plan for an extra 20 minute walk (at the start and end of your day) from the parking lot at road level. Tom Wolfe ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Alpine Conditions in the Lake Louise - Lake Ohara Area

Some recent photos of alpine conditions in the Lake Louise - Lake O'hara areas from a flight last night can be seen here. Lots of snow above ~2500m.

Ian Jackson
ACMG Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician | Technicien Sécurité de Visiteurs
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks | Parcs Natiounaux Banff, Yoho, Kootenay
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Kain Route, Mt. Louis; Banff

Other than a few minor snow patches on the walk in and out, the Kain route was totally dry today.

We didn't find the bolted station referred to in Banff Rock, at the top of the Perren crack pitch. Perhaps the work of hanger thieves, or I was just unobservant, but it might be a good idea to save a few small-medium pieces for that belay or use the lower semi-hanging single bolt station.

The rappel gullies are holding a bit of snow, ice & running water. Not enough to get the feet wet, but the melt was producing occasional rockfall.

---

Josh Briggs

ACMG MG

www.briggsconsulting.ca

[MCR] Rogers Pass area, Canada Day

Mt Sir Donald is looking better, but snow patches remain along the classic NW ridge from 2/3rd's height and up. The West-face by-pass is definitely too snowy and will need some time to shed.
 
Uto Peak has a few small patches of snow along the SW ridge, more along the NW ridge.
 
Snowline has risen to above 1900m. Crampons and ice axe were needed earlier this week to get to the Sir D-Uto col after a solid overnight freeze. There is still avalanche debris on the trail around 1400m, so take your time to sort out where you are in the boulder field. It is only 200-300m in length and should melt quickly. The Sir D bivy site is under snow, but the Illecillewaet Campground is now open. Check out the broken trees and carnage from the avalanche in late April as you drive to the parking area. Impressive!
 
Happy Canada Day, eh!
 
Chris Gooliaff
ACMG MG