[MCR] Rockies Icefall Lodge

15cm of snow overnight last night at the lodge 1900 m. There were also moderate winds last night.
Larry Dolecki
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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[MCR] Rockies- Kananaskis Snow

Up to 30cm of new snow has fallen along the front ranges of Kananaskis over the past few days.  Along the divide and the Spray/Smith Dorrien areas snowfall amounts are much less with only 5-10cm. 

 

Temperatures are expected to climb back up into the 20’s again later this week so heads up for lots of rockfall being generated as a result of all off this new snow melting and some potential avalanche hazard in smaller confined gullies. 

 

Safe to say that Yamnuska, EEOR and most of the rock climbing around here is off the books for a little while… 

 

Public Safety Program

Kananaskis Country, AB

 

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[MCR] Coast - Tantalus Conditions + Serratus west face descent

Generally speaking the conditions in the Tantalus are getting pretty rough right now.  Conditions are very dry which is making glacier travel challenging, moats massive and lots of newly exposed terrain with loose rock.  Saying that still good climbing and Ill be back a few more time this year!

Tantalus: The moat on to the SE spur is still fine as there is a large boulder bridging the moat!  Another guided group completed the traverse this weekend and had no problem crossing the moat on the east side.

Dione:  The normal approach line on Dione glacier has a couple large holes that are difficult to cross, it seems like the snow bridges should stay for the season.  Otherwise good condition

Serratus N Face:  Tough conditions with difficult crevasse negotiation down low but still very doable.  We climbed the upper face in 4 pitches of 40 -45 degree ice.   

Serratus West Face Descent: I put in 3 additional rappels on the Mount Serratus West face descent, you can now rappel the entire face with out any scrambling.   The last rappel would not be needed during times of normal snow level.

Picture showing the general position of all the anchors,  

Ross Berg

Director & Mountain Guide (IFMGA / ACMG) - Altus Mountain Guides

Cell: 604 966 8543

Email: ross@altusmountainguides.com

Web: www.altusmountainguides.com

[MCR] Rockies - Lake Louise and Yoho snow amounts - September 9th, 2014

I've had a few folks asking about snow amounts out west. It seems like we've stayed a bit drier than on the east side.

West of the Divide:
I was in the Yoho valley this morning and there was only a dusting at treeline, mostly not sticking to the ground and melting away on solar aspects. I had some periods of good visibility to higher elevations (ie. Mt. Stephen and the peaks along the Wapta), and there seemed to be only a few centimetres up high as well.

Lake Louise and North:
We had maybe a centimetre in Lake Louise this morning which has since melted back. It looks snowier on the peaks in the Lake Louise group at higher elevations. Probably 5-10 cms would be my guess. I didn't drive north of Lake Louise, but heard from a co-worker that snow amounts were similar to the Lake Louise group as you drove north.

Hope this helps with your planning.

Ian Jackson
Visitor Safety Technician | Technicien Sécurité de Visiteurs
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks | Parcs Natiounaux Banff, Yoho, Kootenay
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

Conserve, Restore and Connect with Nature | Conserver, restaurer et se rapprocher de la nature

[MCR] Bugaboo Conditions

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Just back from the Bugaboos last night. While things may have changed since last nights storm here is the skinny at the time of our departure on the morning of the 8th. All sun exposed routes in the Crescent Basin were dry and in good shape. Some snow was lingering on the ridge crests which made it a bit slippy in rock shoes but otherwise not a problem. Marmolata, Bugaboo NE Ridge out of condition however the Kain Route was dry. Pigeon had some snow on it and crampons would be useful to climb the final north facing slopes to the summit. The west side of Snowpatch had some large snow patches near the bases of the routes however most routes were dry (enough) with the exception of the Kraus McCarthy. Views from the Pigeon Feathers showed routes that were visible in the the East Creek basin dry, the north side of the Howsers was plastered and the ice routes were beginning to form but a long way from climbable. Last weeks storm snow was well settled on solar aspects. We encountered up to 35cm of old storm snow on the northerly facing Vowel Glacier which was still 4 finger and fist hardness and beginning to recrystallize into small facets...something to watch with subsequent snowfalls. Bugaboo/Snowpatch col looked grim and uninviting so we avoided it altogether.

 

Cheers!

 

James Blench UIAGM/IFMGA

[MCR] Rockies, Lake O'Hara. Sept 5th, 2104

Climbed Grassi Ridge today on Wiwaxy. Dry on all the climbing but snow on the low angle terrain up high. -1c at 7am at lake elevation(2000m) but above it stayed above freezing at 2200m. Snow begins around 2500m as of 4pm this afternoon and it was cool up high even in the sun.

Some snow moving around at ridge tops along the divide so there "may" be fresh slabs again today in some alpine features. Likely some greasy footing for a day or two on some of the rock routes above 2700m or so.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 4, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 4, 2014 The mountains saw their first significant snowfall of the fall season over the last couple of days. In most places in the Rockies there was snow down to treeline this morning with 10-30cm at the peak elevations. The trail crew at Ribbon Lake in Kananaskis reported 22cm yesterday morning! The Columbia Mountains saw a slightly higher snowline around 2300m with 10-20cm up near the peaks. The mountains seemed slightly drier to the North with the Columbia Icefields and Jasper areas seeing a little less snow. Some small wind loaded avalanches and 50+cm drifts were reported from the Bugaboos and the Wapta Icefields but in general this snow should stick fairly well over the next few days. Watch for small wind loaded pockets, and for solar triggered sluffing as things warm up. This new snow will melt off quickly from the lower elevation and south facing routes over the next day or two but expect it to remain for a while at higher elevations and on North aspects. We observed lots of rockfall this morning high in an East facing bowl as the snow melted so keep this in mind as you travel. Lower elevation and South facing rock climbs should be in great shape by the weekend. Higher elevation ice faces could also be really good, but make sure to time it so you are off before the snow warms and the rockfall starts. High North facing rock routes would be a bad idea at this point. The new snow has also covered up some of the smaller crevasses and made the glacier travel a bit tricky for the time being. Use your ski pole to probe frequently and keep the rope tight on the ice. The nights are getting longer and the temperatures colder so throw in an extra warm layer and some fresh headlamp batteries while you get out and enjoy the great fall weather over the weekend! Conrad Janzen ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.