[MCR] Ice climbing conditions - Rockies

The Canadian Mountain Ski Guide's Guide Training Ice Course visited a number of ice climbing venues between January 5th and 9th 2015.

 

Bear Spirit: 

 

The two central pillars provided good, hooked out ice climbing lines. Overall there is less ice on the far right hand mixed routes. 

 

Corie Dubh: 

 

After the first ice pitch the majority of the lower angle ice is covered in snow and generally provided supportive footing with a few sections of exposed lower angle ice leading to the first mixed pitch.  Following the 10cm snowfall and wind on Jan 6th and 7th only evidence of small sluffs out of steep terrain was observed in the gully.

 

Aquarius: 

 

Driving into the South Ghost was manageable and generally easy for what it can be. Minimal drifting as of Jan 7th. The approach pitches were well formed and wet, with the final steep pitch demanding delicate climbing in certain sections to avoid fracturing a thin pillar. Rainbow Serpent and Fearful Symmetry were not formed. 

 

Weeping Wall: 

 

Sniveling Gully: 

The first fixed anchor was in poor condition and teams opted to build an ice anchor here. Finding sheltered belays helped to manage sluffing of recent 10cm of snow and dagger fall hazard. Overall good ice conditions on this route. 

 

Weeping Wall Right Hand:

In typical conditions. Good ice. 

 

Moonlight:

 

Thin conditions for the first 25m. Short (10cm) screws required for adequate protection. 

 

Louise Falls: 

 

Daggers still threaten the climb. The right hand pillar was very wet and would provide challenging climbing. Water flow over the left hand pillar has refreshed the climb. 

 

Junkyards: 

 

With construction occurring in the area climbers are encouraged to utilize the powerline approach trail rather than walking on the road to access the area.

Information compiled and written by course candidates.

Stephen Holeczi

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Park avalanche control planned for Wednesday and Thursday

Please note that Parks Canada and CP will be doing avalanche control tomorrow (Wednesday, January 7) and we are requesting your cooperation to avoid all areas where we will be working:

• No climbing on Mt. Stephen by any route
• No climbing on Mt Dennis (Field ice climbs) - note that the Field back road is closed, and Pilsner Pillar just avalanched this morning
• No climbing on Silk Tassel (Mt. Field)
• No ski touring on Mt Whymper
• No ski touring in the Simpson avalanche paths (previouly called Vermillion)
• No climbing on Bourgeau Left and Right-hand

We will reopen as we complete this work, but expect this to last for the next 2 days.

 

Thanks for your cooperation.

 

Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks Visitor Safety

 

 

[MCR] Rockies, Mt. Hector, January 4th

Went for a refreshing ski tour up Mt. Hector yesterday, January 4th.

We boot packed 50 m elevation to bypass the waterfall at 2100 m. Otherwise, we kept our skis on to the col between the two peaks. Ski crampons were helpful for the final 300 m to the col. Boot crampons were also useful for the final scramble to the summit.

We found snow depths up to 155 cm on the Hector Glacier. We had pleasant ski conditions below 3100 m with ski penetration of 5-10 cm. Despite the shallow snowpack below treeline, the December 18th crust was supportive and kept our skis above the rocks.

[MCR] Rockies - Little Yoho Region

Just back from 4 days of ski touring in the Little Yoho valley area.

Snowpack depth at treeline in this area ranges from 120-140cm, with 20 cm of very low density snow having fallen over the last 36 hours. Cold temps and very light winds (treeline and below) have kept the surface snow fluffy and deep - excellent deep powder skiing between 2500 and 2000 m.  Below 2000 m the snow is still good, except you can really feel an old ice crust down about 40 cm, and the ground cover is still rough in the trees.

The Dec 18 layer is the one to watch in this area, and is buried anywhere from 40-60 cm. The grains on this layer are variable depending on elevation, but up to about 2100 m it is surface hoar on a strong ice crust - perfect recipe for a sliding layer.  Above 2100 m the surface hoar still exists, but no crust. 

As of today there was no slab on top of this layer (we only observed to treeline), but this seems perched to change anytime. Any small change (more snow, wind or warming) and this avalanche problem will ignite.

Note that Parks Canada has started publishing a new avalanche forecast for this region specifically (Little Yoho).  You can find the forecast here:

http://avalanche.pc.gc.ca

And a few facts about this region here (apologies for the awful photo):

http://calgaryherald.com/news/local-news/little-yoho

Grant Statham

Mountain Guide

Parks Canada

____________________________

Grant Statham, Mountain Guide

Alpine Specialists

701 - 2nd Street

Canmore, Alberta

Canada  T1W 2K3

[MCR] Rockies, Guinness Gully - Ice Rescue Practice, January 5th, 2015

Parks Canada is planning an ice climbing rescue practice on Guinness Gully, Monday, January 5th between 0800-1500 hours. We will do our best to accommodate other climbers on the route but you can expect some delays.

Thanks,
Conrad Janzen
Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks

[MCR] Twisted Ice Climb, Yoho National Park, Jan. 1st ,2014

I climbed Twisted today with Brian Webster and Steve Holeczi. Here is what we found:

Route Conditions:
The route was dry and in good shape and old hooks made it feel not too brittle despite the cool temperatures (-14 at the car in the AM).  The left hand pillar has a crack across it and sounded hollow. We chose a right hand line to avoid it given the temperatures; however, we still were forced to climb a couple body lengths of hollow sounding ice.

Avalanche Conditions:
Despite the avalanche danger rating of "low" below treeline in the Banff, Yoho & Kootenay avalanche forecast, we brought avalanche gear and chose our approach route carefully. Because of the strong valley winds from the recent "Yoho blow", we encountered many areas of hardslab over a facetted base. We were able to chose a route that avoided being exposed to most of the hazard and crossed short hardslab sections one at a time where we couldn't avoid them. Although any avalanche would likely be small, the terrain is steep enough that you wouldn't want to go for a ride.

These below treeline conditions are likely not widespread throughout the Banff, Yoho & Kootenay forecast region, but I would be cautious on the approaches to any of the climbs in the Mt. Stephen/ Mt. Field area right now.

Happy New Year!

Ian Jackson
Visitor Safety Technician | Technicien Sécurité de Visiteurs
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks | Parcs Natiounaux Banff, Yoho, Kootenay
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Rogers Pass: Little Sifton traverse

Spent the last day of 2014 on the Little Sifton traverse, up Grizzly Shoulder and down Hermit. We went over the Little Sifton col but did not ascend Little Sifton peak.

No sign of recent avalanche activity on the tour, although there was evidence of several large slides in the alpine that were probably a few days old. Of note there had been a large avalanche that ran off the east face of the ridge separating Hermit from the Grizzly area. This ran over the traverse from the Hermit moraines to the exit glades between Hermit and Puff Daddy. It made us feel a bit less exposed on that traverse as a portion of the overhead hazard had run.

We did not see any critical signs of instability on our tour, and there were no critical weather factors yesterday (no new snow, cold temperatures, no wind). The solar radiation felt warm but did not seem to be causing instability. However, we did not dig into the snow so cannot make a comment on the reactivity of the surface hoar layer that was buried in mid-December. Reports are that it is of spotty distribution in this zone but reactive where it is found.

There is a variety of wind effect in the alpine with a non-reactive windslab on descent from the col. This wind effect seems to be softening with the cold temperatures and the skiing was fine.

The Grizzly Shoulder uptrack is its usual icy, steep, switchbacking nightmare and the alders in the glades are still problematic. Good skiing in the forest.

If anyone finds a pair of black Julbo googles in the info centre or info centre parking lot they could be my Christmas present to myself...they went missing somewhere around there! Reward offered.

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

mark@alpinism.com