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Saturday, June 13, 2015

[MCR] Conditions - Rogers Pass

For folks who are wondering...

The north and west face routes on McDonald are dry and have seen quite a bit of climber activity over the past week.  The approach/decent down the Herdman is in good condition and is mostly snow to the end of the slide path.   The SW ridge has a few small patches of snow close to the summit but is otherwise dry.  

The trail to Sir Donald is now open and the bridges are in.  See the attached photos for conditions.




Lydia Marmont
Visitor Safety Technician
Glacier National Park
ACMG/CAA

Thursday, June 11, 2015

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued

The unusually warm and dry weather of the last week has melted a lot of snow in the Rockies and Columbia Mountains but we are not quite into full summer conditions yet. It seems as though we are a couple of weeks ahead of most seasons but the forecasted cooler temperatures and precipitation for next week will likely slow the process a bit.

There is very little snow left in the front ranges of the Rockies and most of the long rock climbs, trail and scrambles are dry. A little further north and west there is still a fair bit of lingering snow above treeline. With the forecast being more cloudy than it has been there will likely be less overnight freezing resulting in difficult travel (post-holing) where the snowpack in shallow or inconsistent.

Most climbing routes on Castle Mountain are dry but you should expect to encounter snow and mud on the scramble route or getting to the descent. People have been climbing Athabasca and reporting decent travel conditions after clear nights.

In the Columbias, there is still quite a bit of snow above treeline (currently at the hut level in the Bugaboos) and you should expect to travel over lots of snow to access most routes in the Bugaboos and Rogers Pass. The road to the Bugaboos was in poor conditions earlier this spring and has reportedly been fixed recently although a high-ish clearance vehicle is probably still a good idea.

The rivers and creeks are still high and there are still some cornices and wet snow avalanches to watch out for.

Currently, weather forecasts show dryer conditions to the north (Jasper) and west (Revelstoke) for the weekend.

Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide


These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Monday, June 8, 2015

[MCR] Organized Rope Rescue Practice

Hello Everyone,

Just a head's up to Revelstoke locals and visiting climbers alike, Parks Canada Visitor Safety Staff will be conducting rope rescue practice tomorrow June 9th, 2015 at the Shaketown crag from 0800 to 1600.

Best Regards,

Paddy Jerome 
Visitor Safety 
Glacier & Mt.Revelstoke National Parks 
Revelstoke, B.C. 
C: 403 431 0534 

Sunday, June 7, 2015

[MCR] Coast range. Garibaldi

Climbed garibaldi this morning. Sunday June 7, 2015. Context; day 3 of 4 day intro course with 3 students.
Approach from brohm ridge. Snow travel begins at just below tree line around 1700 m. Travel is like mid summer. Firm well settled base provides fast travel on foot. Easy step kicking, with sun cups formed. No overnight freeze with a low of plus 7 at 4 am. High of plus 22 during the days. Plenty of rock fall and ice fall in the usual places on dalton domes hanging glaciers and crumbling volcanic choss. Crevasses starting to open but fairly easy route finding with cracks and 2 foot openings at the most. The bergshrund before the final face is open to 10 meters and overhanging. It is possible to by pass on climbers left. Stellar trip.
Www.Themountainschool.com
Chris Lawrence MG 604 892-4686 cell
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Thursday, June 4, 2015

[MCR] Columbia Icefields - Mt Athabasca

I guided an ascent of the Silverhorn on 1 June.

One of the only clear nights in the past week, we enjoyed an amazing refreeze. There's limited snow on the approach trail, with about only 100m in the bowl before the final morainal ridge. Given the refreeze, we found fairly supportive travel on the glacier, a breakable crust with foot penetration between 5-20cm. There was 5-10cm of new snow above 2800m.

On the Silverhorn, the bergschrund was mostly filled in with an easy step over. Above, we experienced supportive snow for about 1 rope length. Beyond there was 10-20cm new over 0-30cm old snow over ice. Crampons were beneficial and we dug easily for good ice screw belays.

We descended to the AA glacier with great conditions, thanks to the refreeze. Below the glacier, the trail was mainly free of snow, except for a few remaining pockets.

For some shots of the practice gullies and the AA col proper, check the link below:


There are still moderate cornices over the practice gullies.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com


[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 4th, 2015


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 4th, 2015

The bulk of of the limited observations from the Rockies and Columbias are talking about unusually low snow heights below treeline. People are walking to places like the Conrad Kain hut, Wiwaxy gap at O'Hara and up to around 1600m on the Hermit trail at Rogers Pass.

Still lots of snow along the divides but classic snow and ice routes could be good(see below) Alpine rock routes may be damp or snowy along the divide as it seemed to precipitate just about everywhere recently in the Rockies and Columbias. It would be ski touring to get to Sir Donald, Uto, AbbottPass etc. Alpine rock in the Bugaboos could be good though with relatively short approaches from the hut and the moraine trail may even be fairly dry up towards Applebee.

The past few days of warmth and moisture have possibly warmed up the snowpack to ridge tops. If the forecast is right, friday night will be clear and may be the coolest night of the forecast period. Could be a setup for a good freeze and some quick travel on saturday morning??

Nights are short so the long days are great for travel except if it means a poor freeze or a long period without any recovery mid trip.

Rivers are high and alpine lakes are mostly either open or not fit for walking.

Clear skies in the forecast just about everywhere in the region-might be embarrassing to not get after it without a good excuse!!

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide



These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lower Victoria Glacier

Went for a glacial tour yesterday June 3rd in the Lake Louise area. A few patches of snow still linger on the Plain of Six hikers trail. We split off and descended to the toe of the lower Vic glacier. Travel on the glacier to within sight of the Death Trap was surprisingly good, except near areas of exposed rock and where the snow pack was thin. Snow depth at our high point of 2250m was just over 1m. Crevasse bridges were weak and one from our team fell in a slot up to his ears. An important reminder to rope up on even the most benign looking glacier.

We witnessed numerous avalanches coming off the east slopes of Victoria and debris was running across the entire width of the upper Death Trap (photo attached).

We gained the end of the Swiss Guides Trail through a weakness in the lateral morraine and followed the Plain of Six trail back to the Lake. The Tea House was open for business and the staff said this was the earliest opening ever.

Light rain and low cloud for most of the day.

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