[MCR] Wapta Bow hut area July 2-5, 2015

A group of eager mountaineers spent 4 days climbing out of Bow hut
during the continued hot summer weather of early July.
There was no overnight freeze during this time, July 4th was the
coolest morning.

Having spent many of the July long weekends in this area over the
last 12 years, it is beyond any doubt that the 2015 season has the
least amount of snow on the glaciers that I have seen.
It would also seem that though the water levels are somewhat high,
they are much lower than would be expected for this time of year,
considering the recent.hot weather.

The toe of the glacier above Bow hut is mostly ice with a few patches
of snow on the right side that still allow snow travel to the "Onion
skin height of land".
You can still gain the left side of St Nicholas on snow, however this
area is getting shallow and will probably melt out in the next week
or so requiring a bit more zig zagging.

A party that climbed Mt. Olive on July 2nd reported the col on the
west side of Olive-St Nicholas is showing signs of open crevasses in
the flats along with shallow areas of snowpack.
There is an old large slab on the S face of Mt Collie, and the ramp
leading to the high col looks very broken up. (This is probably good
to note with the expected increased travel to this area with the hut going in)

Our group climbed Mt Olive and St Nicholas on July 3rd.
Of note was there is no cornice left on the summit of Mt Olive.

We climbed Mt Gordon on July 4th. We used a ramp that leads from the
high point of snow near the Onion skin, and follows a ramp that leads
towards Mt Gordon. Though this route is a bit longer than going
straight up and over to Mt Gordon, it has less crevasses and seems to
hold the snow well. A few sags on Mt Gordon were probed, but
solid, and cooler conditions gave good travel up and down.

The small tarn near the summit of Mt Gordon was very impressive. With
the warm temperatures (and whatever else is at work here) it has
formed in an almost perfect ellipse.

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide



Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
www.incentre.net/pamann/

[MCR] Bugaboos

Just back from 5 days in the Bugaboos. Excellent conditions on the glaciers and the climbs right now, although it felt more like early August than early July. The continued hot weather makes me wonder if the easy traveling up the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col and on the glaciers will last for much longer...

Mark Klassen

ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide

Iceland Sailing and Ski Touring 2016

[MCR] Estella Peak, Jasper National Park. 3069m

Spent the day climbing what is apparently a unconfirmed first ascent of the East Ridge of Mt Estella in the Circus Valley of Jasper National Park. Located 6 km west of Marmot Mountain (Marmot Basin Ski Hill), 4 km NW of the more popular Peveril Peak in Portal Creek this 3069m peak boasts some of the best white quartzite climbing I've seen in the Rockies. Only 5(?) known ascents via 2 south face snow couloirs since 1930. The 1000m East Ridge goes from the Manx-Estella col at grade IV 5.8/9 with an elevation gain of 440ms. Predominantly exposed 4 class scrambling between short 5 class steps of 5.5 to 5.7 leads to 50ms of gorgeous 5.8/9 climbing to the summit on white quartzite. We took a single 60m rope and standard rack of small Camelots (0.4 to 3), wires and 6 runners which the route eagerly gobbled up in the climbing pitches. We generally stayed on the ridge proper and we'd often traverse on obvious goat ledges to the south-face to avoid shear climbing and found short very exposed but easier stepped terrain to bring us back onto the ridge. As with any Rockies routes it's not entirely perfect and whether it's due to the non-existent travel or fresh snow free areas on the ridge we did find a short band at 2800ms that was dangerously loose. Purely scrambling at this point, but lots of very unstable large talus which shifts underfoot and we narrowly avoided a crushed leg injury when a large boulder shifted and rolled just past me taking lots of debris with it down the north aspect. Last know ascent (very short summit register) in 2011 from the south and we assumed they descended the easier west ridge and down from the Majestic/Estella col back into the Circus Valley and out to Portal Creek. We descended the east ridge with 3 raps and scrambling down to the Manx col and out Portal Creek. You should expect to do a few more raps as the down climbing is quite exposed at times. Lots of excellent features and pitches to create safe anchors for both belays and raps. A bear to approach from the Portal Creek side as no defined trail system exists back as far as you need. Another approach would be up over the ski hill and Terminal, Manx Peaks to the col. Expect a reasonable 2 days or a long 1 day by this approach or do it as part of the yet uncompleted (unknown) Circus Loop which connects beautifully over 7 peaks if you include Marmot Mountain in the mix. This peak deserves more visits as it could easily be considered a real classic Rockies ridge climb similar in character to Tupper or Sir Donald in quality and aesthetics. Good radio and satellite communication from this location but no wayward cell coverage, though you can get a signal from the top of Manx peak. It's worth it's weight to consider carrying a Spot, Inreach or similar PLB or Sat phone for emergency communications. 

Deryl Kelly and Tim McCallister

Jasper Visitor Safety

Jasper National Park

      

[MCR] Other: trail conditions for Mount Assiniboine PP June 30 - July 3, 2015

Hi Folks 

With friends, nice days were spent at Mt. Assiniboine Provincial Park.

Trails we travelled from Mt Shark, as well as around the core of Mt. Assiniboine and Wonder Pass are all in excellent conditions. No snow left (including Wonder Pass) and the vegetation is at least three weeks ahead. Lots of wildflowers still.

All bridges on our route were in place and campsites along the way seem to be dry.

Happy Trails, Martina

ACMG Hiking Guide

[MCR] The Fist - Kananaskis Country - Rocky Mountains

Went up the "normal" route on the Fist today. One small patch of snow on ascent is easily avoidable, and no ice axe is needed. Rockfall was managed by re-grouping and moving through the terrain strategically (there is a lot of rockfall potential on this route!).

Conditions in this region are several weeks ahead of normal in terms of snow melt. Local peaks such as Birdwood, Commonwealth and Smuts look to be in good condition.

Play safe!

Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rogers Pass - Hermit Meadows Peaks

Just back from a few days at Hermit Meadows where our team completed ascents of Mt Rogers, Swiss Peaks, Truda Peaks, and Mt Tupper.

We experienced mostly supportive snow travel on the Swiss and upper Tupper glaciers. There is bare ice up to 2700m on the Swiss glacier increasing daily, but still avoidable. The bergschrund at the base of the Swiss face is still filled in the centre but opening on both sides. We found crampons helpful to ascend the face in the early morning, but unnecessary to descend the Truda couloir late afternoon. The Swiss Peaks traverse is mainly dry with the only snow at the junction with S Face route bypassing the gendarmes.

Truda Peaks S Ridge is also dry.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 02, 2015

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 02, 2015 Temperatures have returned to more seasonal norms lately but conditions are still far ahead of normal. There have been reports of great alpine climbing conditions on both rock and ice routes in the Rockies and Columbia Mountains. The winter snowpack continues to melt rapidly and reports have indicated generally favourable travel on snow and glaciers. As the snow cover thins, the snow bridges over crevasses have become weaker and I know of at least one person who had a leg break through in the last week. There are still snow patches to negotiate and they are likely going to be deep and soft later in the day. Caution for wet snow, point release avalanches is still advised in exposed areas late in the day. People have reported great conditions on routes like the Beckey-Chouinard in the Bugaboos, NW Ridge of Sir Donald in Rogers Pass, Mount Louis, Castle Mountain and routes on Mount Athabasca and Mount Cline. Probably a good indication that many other routes are in good shape as well. The weather forecast for the weekend is generally good in all of the forecast areas with only a slight chance of rain predicted in the Rocky Mountains on Saturday. That said, I’ll still be keeping my eyes open for potential thunderstorms building and rising creek levels in the afternoons. Have a great weekend! Marc Piché ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.