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Wednesday, September 9, 2015

[MCR] Rockies: Mt MacArthur

We climbed Mt MacArthur from the Stanley Mitchell hut today. There is 40-60 cm of snow that has accumulated on the glacier from the weekly snowstorms we've been having since late July. Heavy trailbreaking. On the summit ridge it had drifted even deeper and advanced trenching technique was required to get to the top.

Mark Klassen
ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide


Sunday, September 6, 2015

[MCR] Tonquin

Tonquin on Saturday 5th September.
Lots of loose snow slides occuring on solar aspects.
Cheers,
Steve Blagbrough.
IFMGA/ACMG

Saturday, September 5, 2015

[MCR] Trail Condition Report for Galatea Creek Trail for September 5, 2015

Hi Folks

After a long hiatus, this heavily flood-damaged trail has an official re-opening as of this week.
All bridges are in place, and at key points, flagging tape and cairns will give you clear indication, which way to go.

Given the current rainy weather conditions, the trail has numerous muddy sections. Caution also on the slippery, snow covered, wooden bridges.

At higher elevations (freezing level 1700 m), a beautiful winter postcard scenery dominated the landscape, although very fogged in.
With Guinn's Pass in mind, travel was done to Lillian Lake instead, at which point, this party of one decided to return.

Some work remains to be done, and Lillian Lake campsite will continue to be closed, until further notice. But for now enjoy this trail for what it is, a beautiful hike in the mountains.

Happy Trails Martina Wakeman 
ACMG Hiking Guide




Based on my own observations, on a completely separate note, an update on current conditions of 'Mount Trash-more'. It is not an isolated peak, but rather a common sight in the Mountain Parks these days, growing in volume, and is a concern for the welfare of our wildlife/places.
We are all stewards of this land, and are invited to 'pay it forward', by leaving road/parking and picnic sites, as well as trails cleaner than we found them in. Thank you to all who choose to participate:-)

Friday, September 4, 2015

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 4, 2015


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 4, 2015

The mountains have been hit by the first significant snow accumulations of the fall season over the last two weeks, and Environment Canada has just issued the season's first snowfall warning for southern Alberta!

Snow amounts vary greatly depending on how close you are to the divide. A climbing party on Unnamed, an alpine rock climb in the Lake Louise area, reported 25 cm from the base of the route to the summit a couple of days ago, and the Wapta is covered in over 30 cm of recent snow. On the other hand, Castle Mtn was climbed three days ago and was reported to be snow-free, though that may have changed by now. Here in Canmore there is only a light dusting of snow high on the north aspects, but today dawned cold and claggy and the forecast is calling for more rain and cold temps throughout the weekend.

The Columbia Mountains have a slightly higher snowline with 10-15cm at 2300 m, but likely a lot more as you travel higher. Snow was down as low as Hermit Campground and Balu Pass but is melting back, with 135 mm (!) of rain at Rogers Pass reported since a week ago.

The mountains are drier to the North with the Columbia Icefields, Mt. Robson, and Jasper areas seeing less snow, but there have been no reports from guides out of these areas since August 27 when Mt. Robson was climbed in good condition.

The storm snow over the past week was accompanied by fierce winds, and small wind loaded avalanches and 60+cm drifts were reported from the Wapta Icefields and Lake O'Hara areas. With the forecast this is something that is not likely to improve over the next few days. Watch for small wind loaded pockets, and for solar triggered sluffing when things finally warm up. It's not too early to consider adding avalanche gear to your equipment list -- transceiver and lightweight probe and shovel -- if your climbing plans include alpine gullies or ice faces.

When the sun returns again, possibly as early as the start of next week, lower elevation and south facing rock climbs should come into condition quickly. Higher elevation ice faces could also be really good, but make sure to time it so you are off before the snow warms and the rockfall starts. High north facing rock routes would be a bad idea at this point. The new snow has also covered up some of the smaller crevasses and made the glacier travel a bit tricky for the time being. Use your ski pole to probe frequently and keep the rope tight on the ice.

The nights are getting longer and the temperatures colder so throw in an extra warm layer and some fresh headlamp batteries while you get out.

Tom Wolfe
ACMG Mountain Guide

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockfall Event - North Face of Edith Cavell

There was a large rockfall event on the North face of Edith Cavell on Tuesday 1st September 2015.
The rockfall was just right of the North Face, East summit route. Looks like an entire pillar of rock fell off with dust from the event reaching the parking lot.
No one was involved or injured in the rock slide.
Cavell is looking pretty wintry with wet snow falling at the tarn yesterday.
Cheers,
Steve Blagbrough.
IFMGA-ACMG



Thursday, September 3, 2015

[MCR] Rockies: Bow Hut conditions.

Just finished a trip up to Bow Hut. The mountains around the hut received about 30cm of snow and high winds above 2500m. This made for tricky glacier travel with the many thinly bridged crevasses. Observed rock fall on southern aspects when the snow started to melt and wind slabs with cracking on lee aspects up high. We avoided avalanche slopes.

Safe Travels.

Crosby Johnston
ACMG Mountain Guide
c.778 266 0022

[MCR] Mt Huber Lake Ohara

I climbed the Huber ledges to the toe of the Huber glacier with a couple of hearty guests Sept 2nd.  It was heavy weather day with plenty of rain, snow and wind.  The Huber ledges have a blanket of 20-45cm of new snow and ice with some wind pockets up to 60cm.  I would suspect there would be up to a meter of drifting in areas on the glacier above.  The freezing level of yesterdays snow was below treeline (see pictures).  

We did not see any avalanche activity or cracking in the new snow but I would be concerned about the potential for avalanche hazard with the amount of wind loading we saw up high.  The sun is intense at this time of year so take particular caution for rapidly changing conditions with rock fall and avalanche hazard when the sun comes out.

Happy adventuring

Kirsten


Kirsten Knechtel

MCR Archive