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Tuesday, August 31, 2010

[MCR] Mt Athabasca

 Took a run at Mt Athabasca today, we made it as high as the base of the Silverhorn in light to moderate snowfalls and deteriorating visibility. Moderate winds gusting to strong at times, were redistributing the snow into windslabs up to 35cm in places.  Snow depths  at 2700m were highly variable, but averaged 20cm.  Many crevasses were brushed over with weak bridges, attentive route finding and probing was necessary.

On our descent we saw fresh debris from a loose sz 1.5 avalanche starting off the silverhorn and running across the ramp.  

Another wave of precipitation and wind is forecast to push through again tonite and early tomorrow. It may take a couple of days for these snow instabilities to settle out.  


Andrew Langsford

IFMGA / ACMG Mountain Guide



Monday, August 30, 2010

[MCR] Selkirks and Rockies Aug.22-30

Just home from one of the Assistant Alpine Guide exams.

 

We spent the last 10 days between Rogers Pass (Mt. Rogers and Mt. Tupper) and the Lake Louise/ Bow Valley areas (Mount’s Fay, Little (via the Perren route), Castle, Cascade (Mothers Day), and Kid Goat. All this occurred as the nice summer weather decided to take a turn to the worse – what we call perfect exam weather!

 

In Rogers Pass (Aug.22-24) we found a mix of snow and ice with some open crevasses on the approach up the Swiss Glacier and hard frozen snow on the face of Rogers – the bergshrund was still easily crossed on the climbers right side – Tupper was in fine shape the next day and we replaced and removed some old anchor material on the descent (it was once again snow covered on my drive home today).

 

Our time in the Rockies (Aug.26-30) started with a sunny summer day (maybe the last there?) for our climbs on Castle which deteriorated later in the evening with the first of a series of systems. This storm of Aug.27th deposited @ 5cms. of snow down to the toe of the Fay glacier (@ 2800m.), which after a clear cold(-4.5 in Moraine Lake at 6 am) had a layer of 5mm. surface hoar (yes already!) over it. The snow on the lower glacier had drifted into a number of narrow (meaning leg breaking) crevasses making travel tricky up the center section with lots of probing.

 

 The fair weather held for the day of the 28th and once again deteriorated that evening and deposited another 5-10cms(2900m.) of snow overnight with light westerly winds. The snow stopped by the am and we climbed the Roth Kallen and Central Ice Bulge - descending the Roth Kalen via v-threads rather than the West Ridge which was now snow covered. There had been several small loose snow avalanches off the ice faces overnight from the previous evening snowfall. The central Ice Bulge bergshrund is still reasonable to negotiate (though the leader had to plow through the sluff deposits) and the Roth Kallen required some aiding off of ice screws  to surmount the overhanging upper wall. The ice faces ranged from firm neve to ice and there are still old cornices overhanging both routes.

 

The snowfall began again in the afternoon and by the time we left there had been another 10-15cms. of snow @ 2900 m. that tapered with elevation loss and it was pouring rain in the valey well into the evening adding I am sure to the previous snowfall figure.

 

Needless to say conditions are not great out there in the alpine with all this new snow and glacier travel will only be trickier – may be time for a trip to Skaha for some rock climbing!

 

Thanks to all the candidates for providing a safe and fun week in the mountains!

 

Cheers,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Sunday, August 29, 2010

[MCR] Presidents

Climbed the Presidents with Jen, John and Bree from Fort "Mac" yesterday.
 
We hiked in on Friday the 27th and after a short delay in Field to avoid a rainy start, we basically stayed dry during our whole trip. We got snow and other forms of frozen precip on our way up but no rain and no accumulation along the trail.
The mountains of little Yoho appears to have received a bit less snow than the Louise group. However the twin peaks and the glacier did accumulate snow before our arrival and during the afternoon of the 27th while we were in the hut.
 
In total, an average of 10cm covers most of the firn snow and a bit more on the upper peaks. Wind played with the snow as it came in and has covered the glacier with a smooth coat of primer and has loaded a few areas with as much as boot top snow, smaller crevasses are now harder to see. I however did not notice much in terms of wind slab, the snow was quite light. The steeper snowy aspect of the vise president looked quite icy down low with not too much for loading up high ( i had a quick look form the top).
 
Lower down on the glacier (right side approach) it would of been easy to walk into a few smaller ones. We used a short probe to make our ascent through thin sections less eventful and smoother.
The rock and scree was mostly covered but at this point i feel it made travel more enjoyable.
 
The big thing to take home was the hardness of the firn snow (3 degrees Celsius at 6AM at the hut) . The new snow was getting sticky as we descended from our ascents at 12:30. Where we kicked steps earlier in the month, the snow is now hard and front pointing is required to move through the crux to the col. We used solid snow pickets for protection.
 
 
On a side note, we counted 18 fallen trees across the the trail from the hut on our way out, the biggest being about a foot and a half in diameter....shallow soil i guess! In most cases you had to go under or climb over going around was only better in a few cases.

 
Cheers

 
 
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpineguide
www.yamnuska.com

 





[MCR] Willingdon area and Pipestone

Attempted to climb Willingdon from August 26-28. Beautiful weather
going in on 26th, good conditions. (until late in day) An intense
cold front brought strong winds and heavy rainfall the night of the
26th. Temperatures dropped 10 degrees over a few hours. We had strong
winds and an intense dust storm near the north end of Pipestone Pass
as the system approached which was knocking us off our feet!

(check out this short clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTFUKj8qP8o)

We accessed the Pipestone via col NE of Molar meadows by small lake.
From above the small lake a bench at 2600 metres (526253) leads SE
to another lake then to trail. This route though longer than
quartzite col is easier and probably better if wet or snowy.

The 27th was unsettled and the peak had picked about 10cm of snow and
weather still very unsettled. Snow line was down to 2400 metres and
spotty with some peaks getting much more snow than others. We decided
to start to head out and were hit by another system on the which gave
another 5-10cm at upper elevations late in the day.

This route though longer than quartzite col is easier and probably
better if wet or snowy.
Driving home late afternoon on the 28th ran into an intense snow
storm near the icefields and it looks like much more snow at and
above treeline in the Jasper area.
Spectacular country.....just one day late!

Peter Amann

Peter Amann
Mountain guide
pamann@incentre.net

Saturday, August 28, 2010

[MCR] Rockies: Mt Whyte

A slippery day on Mt Whyte with several cm of new snow and verglas on
the east bowl/north ridge route. Steady stonefall was observed on the
rocky NE face of Whyte and a few point release avalanches to size 1.5
came off the Unnamed/Popes glacier.

Photo attached of the Lake Louise group.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Brewers, Castle Mountain, Rockies, August 28, 2010

Spent the day climbing Ultra Brewers and Brewers Buttress on Castle Mountain.  Rock was dry and the routes were both in good shape.  We did see a fair bit of rockfall out of some steep shaded gullies as the day warmed up.  Something to watch for as the snow comes and goes.  Cool enough that we were happy to have our long-johns on, but warm enough to enjoy the climbing.  A few rain showers starting as we got back to the car. 
 
No obvious water sources near the hut that we could see today.
 
Snow stayed on the N aspects of everything we saw today, but did not appear to be more than a few cm's thick.
 
Enjoy the fall climbing!
 
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com

[MCR] Mt. Stanley North Face Pictures

Some pictures of the North Face of Mt. Stanley taken today.

Aaron Beardmore
Specialist, Visitor Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay Parks
Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1415
www.parksmountainsafety.ca,
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca
(See attached file: P1040018.JPG)
(See attached file: P1040019.JPG)
(See attached file: P1040020.JPG)
(See attached file: P1040022.JPG)
(See attached file: P1040023.JPG)

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