ACMG Mountain Conditions Report

[MCR] "The Fold", Mt Kidd

Climbed "The Fold" on Mt Kidd yesterday. It is an excellent route and is in great shape, highly recommended!

In terms of route finding...we gained the ridge in one pitch from the left side, starting about 20m above a very short rock step in the approach gully left of the ridge. Next time I would scramble up to the ridge directly and and follow it up. From here we stayed more or less on the crest of the ridge until the final 2-3 pitches. These start where the gully to the right of the ridge pinches off. From here we ventured right for about 5m (bypassing a blank yellow wall) then back to the ridge and up a crack near the crest to a ledge (55m). Then we stayed about 10-15m right of the ridge until below the last short yellow wall (52m). Finally up the steep yellow flakes to the top (10m) belaying way back on the rap station. These last couple pitches are quite run out but are on good rock and many variations are possible.

Good fun climbing with only a few fixed pins on the route. We took a rack from #0.3 - 3.0 Camelots, with doubles from the 0.4-1.0, and a full set of nuts. We did not need any pitons but a hammer was nice for checking the fixed pins, especially on the final couple pitches, and you may want a few pins just in case.

The descent can be done in two raps (25m and 50m) with double ropes, or three raps with a single 70m, but you have to use the hanging station ~12m below the 2nd rap station.

A good adventure on great rock, with warm sunshine and fall colors. The perfect September day!

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com

[MCR] Tonquin Valley trail hikers bridge washed out

I just talked to a friend of mine who is an outfitter who just came
out of the Tonquin.
He said that the bridge at mile 6 where you usually cross to hit the
hikers trail into the Wates Gibson hut, which crosses the Astoria
river has been washed out...
Sounds like all the cribbing is gone as well.

I have confirmed this with the Alpine Club of Canada.

This will mean you either have to go up through the switch backs to
Amethyst Lakes then down again to get to the ACC hut. As well he
mentioned some major rockfall in the boulder field near the
switchbacks which forced him to return to the trail head. (This is
with horses!)

He also said that Cavell Lake is the highest he has ever seen it with
high waters raging at the outlet.
Very interesting for the end of September!

Peter Amann

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
pamann@incentre.net

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 30, 2010 The major event of note is the torrential rains earlier this week. It resulted in saturation of the ground in many places. A major mudflow blocked the TransCanada Highway in Glacier Park and a section of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail above Lake Louise also washed away. As early as this afternoon, after two days of beautiful fall weather another section of this trail washed out above the Plain of Six Teahouse. With the increased flow from the upper Victoria Glacier, the steep saturated morainal material slumped downhill. This condition should be considered where steep loose ground exists and where there is rock fall potential. This was a very unusual rain event. Consequently, unusual rock fall events should not be a surprise. In the Rockies, below 2800 metres, and on sun exposed slopes, rock routes are mostly dry. Castle and Louis (Kain and Gmoser) are looking good. Along the Divide above this elevation, it is snowy. Although, there have been few reports of snow ascents, some of these routes 'may' be back in shape. Evaluating snow stability well before being in the gun barrel, will be the key. We are approaching the early avalanche season and it is easy to get surprised especially since the dry conditions down low allow easy access to the upper peaks. Routes such as the West Ridge of Fay, the Athabasca North Face Bypass or the SE Ridge of Victoria may be 'doable' but will be fairly involved and require rock climbing in crampons. The short snow slopes on these routes will also require careful evaluation. There are second hand reports of guides climbing Assiniboine over the past 2 days. There may be an update on this by the weekend. In Glacier Park, Tupper has dried off and although the Swiss Peaks retain some snow, ascents there will likely be reasonable. On the Sir Donald side, it is quite wintery. There have been no reports from the Bugaboos, but the higher routes are likely done for this year. The lower stuff in the sun may be OK but that is likely it. The forecast calls for two more days of this beautiful weather. This is the time to enjoy some climbing in the sun and take in the impressive display of fall colours. Marc Ledwidge UIAGM Mountain Guide


These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.