[MCR] Smart

As a Reply to Mike Koppang's request for information on the "Smart" belay device.

I have been using the Mammut Smart recreationally for almost a year now and actually quite like it. While it won't replace the GRIGRI I think it makes a great alternative, and worth trying. Just like the GRIGRI it had a learning curve to be able to feed slack efficiently and lower smoothly but I learned quickly how to make it work well. A special note that I would like to emphasize from the instruction manual is that one is never to lift up on the 'lever' but to pull it forward (away from your body), both while lowering and feeding slack. Lifting the lever up effectively creates a hair trigger, it goes from locked off to open in a few degrees where pulling it outwards gives very fine control of a lower. Feeding slack is just as easy, pull it away with brake hand and pull slack with free hand. Like a hybrid between a Tuber and the GRIGRI the brake hand stays on the lever; however like a Tuber, the hand position on the lever is the same for resting and giving slack. (where as w
ith the GRIGRI a second hand position is needed to feed slack quickly, in contrast to the brake position) I have both the GriGri and the Smart, and prefer the smart for toprope and sport climbing. Hope that helps.

Colin Hoglund
TRCI/CGI1
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 29, 2011

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 29, 2011 Current Conditions A series of storms this week have brought new snow to all of the higher peaks in the Rockies and Columbias. Snowfall accumulations of over 15cm have been observed at and above treeline with significant drifting and wind slab development. The peaks in Roger's Pass and along the Rockies main ranges are plastered white with only a little melting today observed on southerly aspects. Temperatures have been cold with a hard frost to valley bottoms this morning making for cold rock climbing conditions until things warm up. Forecast A short lived ridge of high pressure will give sunny and warm conditions through until Saturday when another strong front will come onshore. Moderate to heavy precipitation in the form of rain and snow is expected for Sunday. Hazards and Suggestions Alpine climbing might still possible on the right ridge route, but the new snowfall will make for tricky conditions. New wind slabs have formed over previous bare ice and there will be avalanche danger on any slope that is not wind scoured. Fresh cornices have formed and there will be some rockfall danger as well with melting of the new snow on sun exposed slopes. Glacier travel will require cautious evaluation and roped travel as many crevasses will now be hidden and thinly bridged. Any alpine routes with rock climbing will likely be out of condition and at upper elevations there will be deep foot penetration. This significantly lowers the choices to the point where it is probably better to do a shorter lower elevation south facing rock route and enjoy the sun on Friday or Saturday. Sunday looks like a good day for the gym or to curl up in front of the fire with some route descriptions. Brad White Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies: Temple

Up on Temple today. There was a skiff of new snow all the way into the trees. A nice morning heated things up and got some water running on rock slabs before a cold front in the afternoon dropped temps causing things to ice up. As of mid-afternoon there was light rain in the valley and new snow down to about 2500 m.

Mark Klassen

IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Grand Sentinel

I guided the Grand Sentinel today. Was a busy day with a few parties on the tower. One thing to watch out for with the warm temps is the rock fall from the snow and ice gullies over head when traversing to the Grand Sentinel.

Be safe,

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] ESE Ridge, Lady MacDonald, Canmore

As expected, dry conditions the entire way & forecasted strong, gusty winds made for sporty times on the narrow sections. The most difficult part was after we'd unroped and were hiking up to the false summit. As my partner put it; "it was like walking uphill in water". Windy!

I suspect this is old news but the bolt hangers are missing from the anchor at the top of the initial true pitch & also on most of the handful of bolts along the ridge crest.

Ken Bélanger
TopCog Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Yamnuska

My fellow guide, Mike Trehearne, and I guided on the west end of Mt Yamnuska today, Sept 20th. The rock is dry. The only snow that I saw was on the shaded aspects of Goat Mountain.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

http://www.barryblanchard.ca

http://www.yamnuska.com

barryb3@telus.net

1 403 609 4615

cell 1 403 609 1321

[MCR] Rockies, O'Hara Glacier Pk Sept 20th, 2011

Fine day on Glacier pk traverse today. Cleared up last night, bluebird all day. -8c at the lodge at 7am and maybe colder on the summit at noon.
 
Approximately 5-10 cms light snow in the Glacier Ringrose couloir to its 1/2 height. Approx 15-25cm mostly un-wind effected light snow on the glacier and all over the NW face. Wind effect just at the ridgecrest. Still huge cornices up there and now they have fresh little noses on them. 
 
Did lots of poking in the snow and found no weak layers-good bond to the old snow everywhere and no slab avalanche fracture lines visible anywhere in this neighbourhood. Some sloughing in some steep terrain but surprisingly little.
 
Some good looking ice runnels formed in the past two days but the sun was getting to them by 2pm this afternoon. Rock in the shade is still white.
 
Summer ain't over yet.
 
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide