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Tuesday, September 4, 2012

[MCR] Mt Robson, Kain Face. 120904

From Sunday evening until 5.30 this morning very strong west winds dumped 40 cm of new snow
on the Dome and the east side of Robson,s upper elevations.
The total new snow over the last week is up to 60 cm, foot penetration was 55 cm,
for temps highs were 5 lows –7. The extreme high winds probably forming wind slab in the upper alpine.
At the Dome there are now many large hidden crevasses and the Kain Face is holding at least 50 cm.
By 10.00 am solar induces avalanches to size 2 were running in the runnels on the face and from the steep rock.
The North Face only had only a dusting of new snow down to about 10 000 ft and still mostly blue ice.
Pretty much winter conditions for now.
 
Cheers
Mark Stewart
Mountain Guide.
Cirrus Alpine Guides.
 
 
 
 
 

[MCR] test - pls disregard

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Monday, September 3, 2012

[MCR] Mt Assiniboine

I was in the Mt Assiniboine/Hind Hut area from Aug 31 - Sept 3, with Ernest Leonard, from Dallas. During our trip, we received approximately 15 cm of new snow, and experienced strong to extreme winds from the west. We elected not to attempt Mt Assiniboine, climbing Mt Strom and Wedgwood Peak instead.

For climbers planning on climbing Assiniboine in the near future, I would expect snow and wind slab in gully features, but very little snow on the ridge, due to the violent winds. I would also expect rime ice on exposed rock features. Crampons will probably be necessary for a few days, but if the mountain sees some sun and warmer temperatures, conditions should improve quite quickly. The Gmoser Highway was in good condition as of Sept 3.

Take care,

Grant Meekins
ACMG Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Forbes & region

We attempted Mt Forbes on August 29th but were unsuccessful due to 20 cm HN at 9000' which made for deep post holing across the glaciers and poor weather. The route looked extremely dry as a mixture of ice and frozen scree. The Forbes bergschrund can be crossed easily. The Rosita couloir was dry scree with some deeper patches of windblown HN. Judging by the most recent storm Sept 1st and that the wx forecast for Jasper was for more precipitation than southerly regions I suspect up to 40 cm recent HST and windslabs.
Mons peak was ascended without any difficulties; the bergschrund crossed near 9600' on the climber's far right side.

Tim Pochay
IFMGA Guide

[MCR] Mt Fay Neil Colgan Hut

We went to the Colgan hut on Sept 1st hoping for a go at Mt Fay which looked dry & icy. It appeared that it was possible to get over the schrunds on the Kallen route, West ridge and possibly the Chouinard routes but could not be certain because of poor vis in the storm. It snowed only about 15 cm @ 9000' but blew hard for a long time. I witnessed no avalanches but could not see much; however there were stiff windslabs up to 40 cm deep on N aspects.

Tim Pochay
IFMGA Guide

Sunday, September 2, 2012

[MCR] Lake Louise group snow

Here are a few pictures from last nights snow on the Lake Louise group.   Also, a heads up to anyone climbing in the Mt. Temple area.  It's berry season and multiple grizzlies are using the area.   As of this morning a grizzly was feeding on berries on the approach slide path to the East Ridge of Mt Temple.



Ian Jackson
Visitor Safety Technician
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks
Parks Canada

www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Overnight snow

Significantly more precip overnight than forecast with snow to 1950 m on both aides of the Trans Canada. Photo attached of Eisenhower Tower at 7 am.

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