[MCR] Selkirk Mountains-Laforme Creek-Sale Mountain

Hi,

Just came out of the Sale Mountain area (North of Mount Revelstoke
National Park in the Selkirks) where I guided a group for 4 days.

30cm of storm snow coupled with moderate to strong winds from the
South created widespread windslabs at Treeline and Alpine elevations.
We did not ski much at these elevations due to poor ski quality
(upside down feel) and avalanche hazard concerns. Some cracking around
our skis while breaking trail on Tuesday, but otherwise nothing moved
while skiing.

Trail breaking depth improved during our stay, starting at 70cm deep,
diminishing to 40cm by the last day, testing our early season fitness...

Of note, only one avalanche was observed (48-72hrs old by now), a bit
of a surprise considering the large amount of storm snow during the
last week and the recent wind event. A size 2.5 or 3, on or near the
edge of a glacier on a North aspect, slab 100-150m wide with a one
Meter crown above a big cliff, definitely a large and unsupported
feature. Could not see the deposit due to marginal light.

Snowmobilers were showing up late afternoon as we exited, but we did
not see them engage the steeper slopes.

These widespread windslabs are now buried by a layer of beautiful dry
powder. Careful assessment will be required, specially near ridge tops
before jumping in. Cornices were starting to form and large glide
cracks were observed on West and South facing slopes.

Take care,

Sylvain Hebert
ACMG Ski Guide



_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] South West BC, Manning Park

I spent the last three days in the Manning Park area near Allison Pass.

At 1900m (tree line) there was about 160cm of snow. Ski penetration was 20cm, foot penetration was about 35cm. In the valley at 1200m there was about 50cm of snow.

We did not see any sign of recent avalanche activity, and the pack here felt fairly strong. The top 40cm is 4 Finger+ hardness, below this the snow gets progressively harder to Pencil strength. There was no November 5th layer to be found. An Extended Column Test produced a partial fracture at 24 hits at the bottom of the 4Finger layer. This fracture formed in broken up and decomposing surface hoar.

Pretty well filled in at tree line and the alpine elevations and the sking was good.

Dave Sarkany

DSK Guiding

ACMG Ski Guide
SKGABC Level 3 Sea Kayak Guide
604.938.4056
DSKguiding.com

[MCR] More Waterton Ice Info.

Just to add to Conrad's last post:

 

Spent the last few days playing on some of the routes down in Waterton.

Quick and Dirty & Experts Choice (Centre Line) are both climbable, but both probably harder than what the guidebook has them at. Both were absolutely soaked, and had long sections of ice poorly bonded with the rock behind and/or thin enough not to self support overly well. A light touch and choosing the best supported/bonded line got us through them ok.

Protection is challenging on both, mostly due to the amount of running water.

 

There's a few other climable lines in the Quick and Dirty area that would be good to go but similar in character to the lines described above. One at WI3 and the other solid WI5. Both soaking wet as well.

 

As Conrad mentioned in his post - both these areas seem like they could use just a bit more time to really be good to go.

 

I'll have some photos of the routes up (link below), when we get home tommorow night for those interested.

 

Have fun out there!

 

Mike Trehearne

Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide

 

Cloud Nine Guides

Photos up at:

www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
or email:

mike@cloudnineguides. 

---

Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2012 15:36:57 -0800
To: mcr@informalex.org
From: mcr@informalex.org
Subject: [MCR] Ice Conditions in Waterton Lakes, 12/12/12

For the Southern Alberta crew...

 

Most of the "Compound Gullies" and other lower angled routes on Mount Crandell are now thick enough to climb and have little or no snow on or above them at this point.  Expect some thin ice in spots and especially on some of the tops outs.

 

"Quick and Dirty" is climbable but is still a bit thin and harder than it normally is.

 

"Experts Choice" is touching down but also a bit on the thin side.  Expect it to also be more difficult than the usual rating, it could probably still use a little time.

 

"Lineham Falls" and "The Shining" are in shape.  The trail in has minimal avalanche hazard at this time, although there is avalanche hazard on the approach to "The Shining".  Skis or snowshoes are reccommended. 

 

Several other climbs on Buchanan Ridge on the Akamina Parkway are also in and getting thicker each day. 

 

Enjoy, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Ice Conditions in Waterton Lakes, 12/12/12

For the Southern Alberta crew...

 

Most of the "Compound Gullies" and other lower angled routes on Mount Crandell are now thick enough to climb and have little or no snow on or above them at this point.  Expect some thin ice in spots and especially on some of the tops outs.

 

"Quick and Dirty" is climbable but is still a bit thin and harder than it normally is.

 

"Experts Choice" is touching down but also a bit on the thin side.  Expect it to also be more difficult than the usual rating, it could probably still use a little time.

 

"Lineham Falls" and "The Shining" are in shape.  The trail in has minimal avalanche hazard at this time, although there is avalanche hazard on the approach to "The Shining".  Skis or snowshoes are reccommended. 

 

Several other climbs on Buchanan Ridge on the Akamina Parkway are also in and getting thicker each day. 

 

Enjoy, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Massey's ice climb - Field

We climbed at Massey's today, Dec 11th with a group of 8. There was approx 5cms of new snow at valley bottom in this area that fell overnight on the 10th. Winds were calm in the valley, and there was little evidence of wind activity in the alpine today. No new avalanche observed.

We were able to get ropes up on a few lines today but keeping dry while climbing those lines was challenging. Bring lots of gloves and your goretex if you're headed that way.

Play safe,

Kris Irwin - Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
MB Board - Apprentice Guide

Sent from my mobile
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] addition to Coire Dubh post

Hello,

I wanted to add a detail to Barry's post. The last ice anchor (used to be on the boulders) has been replaced/moved hard climber's left. It should have a piece of red cord on it so it can be seen. Maybe more red cord should have been put on it.......sorry Barry. 

Hopefully this helps whoever heads up there next.

--

Matt Mueller

Kananaskis Public Safety 

[MCR] Rockies, Coire Dubh Integrale

I guided an ascent of Coire Dubh and the first rock pitch of the Integrale yesterday, Dec 10th. The ice is in good shape and there is a lot of it, several flows are formed in the amphitheatre that the ice route finishes in. The common corner crack that starts the Integrale, and is the crux, is exceptionally cruxy right now as it has a record amount of ice in it. It is quality mixed climbing, just much harder than when the corner is dry and you can climb it without crampons and bare hands. I placed a 13 cm screw and a 16 cm screw as well as half a dozen stoppers and three cams on the lead.

The old two bolt anchor at the top of the ice route is down to one bolt. We rappeled the highest ice pitch from a single bolt on the front side of the big boulder 20 meters above the ice. I backed up the bolt with small redirected nut that I'm sure someone will scoop. That anchor could use a piton back-up. There is a new two bolt anchor close to a man sized tree climber's right of the snow slope leading to the last ice pitch.

We punched trough several small pain-in-the-butt windslabs en route. None of them wanted to move.

Happy trails,
and Merry Christmas!

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

First pitch of Coire Dubh Dec 10/12: