[MCR] Conditions, Rockies - Lake Louise area

Photo from 8:30 today on Unnamed. A few centimetres of new snow at 2850m that will likely melt away quickly. Less snow than we anticipated with all of the recent rain.

[MCR] Edith Cavell Access and Parking, Rockies, August 29, 2014

The road up to the Mount Edith Cavell day use area is opening today, August 29th, 2014.

Climbers will be able to access the East Ridge route on Edith Cavell as previously. A superintendent's closure remains in effect around the tarn and drainage channels coming from it. This will mean a minor detour is needed to access the North Face routes on Edith Cavell and the East Ridge of Mt Sorrow. Details of this closure are posted in the day use area and the Jasper Information Centre.

A light dusting of snow was observed yesterday above 3000m on Edith Cavell. 

Rupert Wedgwood

ACMG Mountain Guide

Visitor Safety, Jasper National Park

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Aug 28, 2014

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued Aug 28, 2014 Although there were a few nice days last week where alpine conditions were good, precipitation today has deposited fresh snow at high elevations (5-10cm) around Lake Louise. The weather forecast heading into the weekend looks quite mixed, so do not be too optimistic about a quick turnaround regarding conditions. The recent apprentice alpine guide exam has recently just wrapped up a thorough tour throughout the Rockies (Bow Valley to Louise group to the Columbia Icefields). They reported that glacier travel is generally challenging due to lack of snow cover and wide gaping crevasses. Notably, a bergshrund collapse on North Victoria caught their attention, highlighting that glaciers are routinely unstable as they dry out late in the season. Like the Rockies, guides in the interior speak about typical late summer climbing conditions (ie. high firn lines and dry glaciers). The Bugaboo Snowpatch col was purposefully avoided recently because of dry, dirty and unpleasant conditions. The crevasses in the Bugaboos apparently are becoming quite challenging to navigate as well. No new snow was observed in Rogers Pass, and as of a few days ago, perfect dry conditions existed. Given enough time to dry out, Rogers Pass may seem like a good option. In sum, expect a weekend of mixed weather, with small amounts snow covering already dry summer conditions at high elevations. Mountaineers might be best served by choosing rock climbing objectives with easy retreats this weekend. Aaron Beardmore ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies - Lake Louise area snow

For anyone hoping to get out into the alpine this weekend, it looks like the peaks in the Lake Louise group received a good dollop of snow above ~2800m last night and this morning. I'm guessing 5-10cm at the minimum. I had a glimpse at Mt. Victoria between cloud banks and things looked fairly white up there as well.



Ian Jackson
ACMG Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician | Technicien Sécurité de Visiteurs
Banff, Yoho, Kootenay National Parks | Parcs Natiounaux Banff, Yoho, Kootenay
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
www.parksmountainsafety.ca | www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Monashee Mountains - Revelstoke - cragging access Shaketown

Just a quick heads up for anyone dropping through Revelstoke for some fall cragging over the long weekend.

 

The access bridge to Shaketown cragging area just south of Revelstoke, is undergoing repairs - as a result the road is closed from Aug.25 to Sept.7 - which effectively cuts off access during that time.

 

Cheers,

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Bugaboo glacier access to spires. August 28th, 2014

Cold morning in the Bugs yesterday. We didn't even bother looking at the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col and wandered up the Bugaboo glacier with hopes of Surf's Up. Lots of sporty crevasse crossings on the upper Bugaboo glacier right now. Grey and windy along the divide so we went for Pigeon West Ridge instead. Descended by the Pigeon Snowpatch col rappels.

There is getting to be a pretty good trail under the south faces of Son of Snowpatch above the Bugaboo glacier. We went around the initial granite slabs on the glacier and went right near the top of that first ice slope. On the way down we picked it up from a big cairn down about 5 minutes walk from the base of the Pigeon/Snowpatch rappels.

With travel and some cleaning this trail could be a pretty good thing. It will of course, get beaten up by melt and spring avalanches but it is a good option during these dry spells as the lower glacier recedes. One caution, this is "new" glacial recession. Unlike the relatively stable granite talus around the Kain Hut/Applebee basin, these blocks have not "settled". I tried a short cut across some blocks at one point, gave them a kick as I was unsure and retreated as a big pile of them shifted, creaked and groaned.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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[MCR] Dome Traverse

Hi Everyone,

I attempted the Dome Traverse with a guest this morning starting from the north on Abbot, getting as far as Afton.  We turned around on Afton due rain overnight (7mm at Fidelity) causing slick lichen/quartzite conditions that made footing insecure and movement slow.  

Surprisingly little rockfall observed or heard all day.

We had Larry Stanier level optimism that the sun would come out and the wind would blow the rock dry, but it did not.  Home we came.

The freezing levels stayed high overnight, no new snow observed from the Abbott ridge looking towards Mt. Sir Donald and not even skiff on the north side of Mt. Bonney.  

On the plus side, the forecast cooler & wetter weather this week may help bring the snow & ice faces to come back around.  As is the same in many of the other ranges, the glaciers in the Roger's Pass are exceptionally dry this summer.

Enjoy,

Paddy Jerome

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide 

106 - 1080 A Cougar Creek Drive

Canmore, Alberta T1W 1A4
www.canadianrockies-mountainguides.com
(C) 403 609 0795