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Monday, June 8, 2015

[MCR] Organized Rope Rescue Practice

Hello Everyone,

Just a head's up to Revelstoke locals and visiting climbers alike, Parks Canada Visitor Safety Staff will be conducting rope rescue practice tomorrow June 9th, 2015 at the Shaketown crag from 0800 to 1600.

Best Regards,

Paddy Jerome 
Visitor Safety 
Glacier & Mt.Revelstoke National Parks 
Revelstoke, B.C. 
C: 403 431 0534 

Sunday, June 7, 2015

[MCR] Coast range. Garibaldi

Climbed garibaldi this morning. Sunday June 7, 2015. Context; day 3 of 4 day intro course with 3 students.
Approach from brohm ridge. Snow travel begins at just below tree line around 1700 m. Travel is like mid summer. Firm well settled base provides fast travel on foot. Easy step kicking, with sun cups formed. No overnight freeze with a low of plus 7 at 4 am. High of plus 22 during the days. Plenty of rock fall and ice fall in the usual places on dalton domes hanging glaciers and crumbling volcanic choss. Crevasses starting to open but fairly easy route finding with cracks and 2 foot openings at the most. The bergshrund before the final face is open to 10 meters and overhanging. It is possible to by pass on climbers left. Stellar trip.
Www.Themountainschool.com
Chris Lawrence MG 604 892-4686 cell
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Thursday, June 4, 2015

[MCR] Columbia Icefields - Mt Athabasca

I guided an ascent of the Silverhorn on 1 June.

One of the only clear nights in the past week, we enjoyed an amazing refreeze. There's limited snow on the approach trail, with about only 100m in the bowl before the final morainal ridge. Given the refreeze, we found fairly supportive travel on the glacier, a breakable crust with foot penetration between 5-20cm. There was 5-10cm of new snow above 2800m.

On the Silverhorn, the bergschrund was mostly filled in with an easy step over. Above, we experienced supportive snow for about 1 rope length. Beyond there was 10-20cm new over 0-30cm old snow over ice. Crampons were beneficial and we dug easily for good ice screw belays.

We descended to the AA glacier with great conditions, thanks to the refreeze. Below the glacier, the trail was mainly free of snow, except for a few remaining pockets.

For some shots of the practice gullies and the AA col proper, check the link below:


There are still moderate cornices over the practice gullies.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com


[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 4th, 2015


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 4th, 2015

The bulk of of the limited observations from the Rockies and Columbias are talking about unusually low snow heights below treeline. People are walking to places like the Conrad Kain hut, Wiwaxy gap at O'Hara and up to around 1600m on the Hermit trail at Rogers Pass.

Still lots of snow along the divides but classic snow and ice routes could be good(see below) Alpine rock routes may be damp or snowy along the divide as it seemed to precipitate just about everywhere recently in the Rockies and Columbias. It would be ski touring to get to Sir Donald, Uto, AbbottPass etc. Alpine rock in the Bugaboos could be good though with relatively short approaches from the hut and the moraine trail may even be fairly dry up towards Applebee.

The past few days of warmth and moisture have possibly warmed up the snowpack to ridge tops. If the forecast is right, friday night will be clear and may be the coolest night of the forecast period. Could be a setup for a good freeze and some quick travel on saturday morning??

Nights are short so the long days are great for travel except if it means a poor freeze or a long period without any recovery mid trip.

Rivers are high and alpine lakes are mostly either open or not fit for walking.

Clear skies in the forecast just about everywhere in the region-might be embarrassing to not get after it without a good excuse!!

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide



These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lower Victoria Glacier

Went for a glacial tour yesterday June 3rd in the Lake Louise area. A few patches of snow still linger on the Plain of Six hikers trail. We split off and descended to the toe of the lower Vic glacier. Travel on the glacier to within sight of the Death Trap was surprisingly good, except near areas of exposed rock and where the snow pack was thin. Snow depth at our high point of 2250m was just over 1m. Crevasse bridges were weak and one from our team fell in a slot up to his ears. An important reminder to rope up on even the most benign looking glacier.

We witnessed numerous avalanches coming off the east slopes of Victoria and debris was running across the entire width of the upper Death Trap (photo attached).

We gained the end of the Swiss Guides Trail through a weakness in the lateral morraine and followed the Plain of Six trail back to the Lake. The Tea House was open for business and the staff said this was the earliest opening ever.

Light rain and low cloud for most of the day.

Saturday, May 30, 2015

[MCR] Columbia Icefields Conditions

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Just back this afternoon from a May 24 to 30 trip in and around the Columbia Icefields. We experienced generally unsettled weather, quite a bit of rain thru the period and limited overnight recovery. Travel anywhere with tree cover was post holing and unpleasant. Despite the limited freeze travel on the glaciers was "not too bad" where ever the snow cover exceeded a meter; below a meter and there was often crotch deep post holes. Many sags are becoming visible over crevasses. Most notable conditions wise was a slab avalanche cycle beginning on the 26th and continuing sporadically as of this morning. Most releases were in unglaciated terrain on easterly aspects; about 2500 to 2700m elevation, often running to ground and up to size three in size. Accompanying the slabs was on going loose wet avalanches generally in the size 1 to 2 range usually stopping high on the slopes.  With the ongoing unsettled weather and potential for rain we avoided being underneath any slopes capable of producing avalanches due to the unusual nature of the big slab releases. First mosquito hatch last night and burly ticks in the Icefields campground....at least June will be here soon!
 
Play safe...
 
James Blench IFMGA/UIAGM

Thursday, May 28, 2015

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued 05/28/2015


ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued 05/28/2015

It looks like the bluebird, summer like conditions have come to an end for a little while. The last couple days have been good reminders of storm build up and the potential of thunderstorms here in the rockies. More unsettled weather is on the menu for the next couple days, with slightly cooler temps.

With all the warm temps and sun from the past week, the mountains have really started to clean themselves off. Rogers Pass has had a significant decrease in snow levels, with swollen creek levels and two significant size 3 avalanches, off Macdonald and one on Catamount to the ground. Alpine routes still have a ways to go though before being in "normal" shape, with lone-pine slide path on Tupper and NW routes on Macdonald being the only known attempts so far.

On the Icefields, several slabs up to 2.5 have released this past week. One on the upper parkers ridge and one on son of Snow dome- both in the 2500-2600m level. As mentioned earlier as well, a large serac failure off the hourglass ran past the flats and below, and a deep slab left of the silver horn, a 3rd of the way from the top have also been witnessed. Groups have experienced great travel in and around the Athabasca area, with early starts and fast travel, but climbers should be suspicious about loaded higher alpine features that have not gone yet.
Current conditions on North Face of Athabasca and practice gullies on Andromeda are great travel but It seems likely some of these North Face routes are not going to be in condition for very long given the lack of winter snow.

Jasper Alpine is still snowy along with the East ridge of Edith Cavell. The road is also closed until the end of June for construction on the bridge. The Berg Lake Trail into Robson is only open up to White Horn and Snow Bird Pass is Closed due to snow for hiking.

Overall, spring feels pretty advanced in the mountains with all the heat of the past couple weeks. Currently, the freezing levels are staying quite high, and precipitation is mostly arriving as rain up to mountain tops. Expect weak and mushy snow, slumping cornices and crevasses, and lots of potential for rock fall. An overnight freeze could provide great travel that would deteriorate quickly when the day warms.

Potential for thunderstorms are an increasing factor to consider in planning the days objectives. Still lots of great opportunity for adventure when the rain stops, but be aware that conditions are in a state of change right now as we continue to move towards summer.

Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide



These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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