[MCR] Estella Peak, Jasper National Park. 3069m

Spent the day climbing what is apparently a unconfirmed first ascent of the East Ridge of Mt Estella in the Circus Valley of Jasper National Park. Located 6 km west of Marmot Mountain (Marmot Basin Ski Hill), 4 km NW of the more popular Peveril Peak in Portal Creek this 3069m peak boasts some of the best white quartzite climbing I've seen in the Rockies. Only 5(?) known ascents via 2 south face snow couloirs since 1930. The 1000m East Ridge goes from the Manx-Estella col at grade IV 5.8/9 with an elevation gain of 440ms. Predominantly exposed 4 class scrambling between short 5 class steps of 5.5 to 5.7 leads to 50ms of gorgeous 5.8/9 climbing to the summit on white quartzite. We took a single 60m rope and standard rack of small Camelots (0.4 to 3), wires and 6 runners which the route eagerly gobbled up in the climbing pitches. We generally stayed on the ridge proper and we'd often traverse on obvious goat ledges to the south-face to avoid shear climbing and found short very exposed but easier stepped terrain to bring us back onto the ridge. As with any Rockies routes it's not entirely perfect and whether it's due to the non-existent travel or fresh snow free areas on the ridge we did find a short band at 2800ms that was dangerously loose. Purely scrambling at this point, but lots of very unstable large talus which shifts underfoot and we narrowly avoided a crushed leg injury when a large boulder shifted and rolled just past me taking lots of debris with it down the north aspect. Last know ascent (very short summit register) in 2011 from the south and we assumed they descended the easier west ridge and down from the Majestic/Estella col back into the Circus Valley and out to Portal Creek. We descended the east ridge with 3 raps and scrambling down to the Manx col and out Portal Creek. You should expect to do a few more raps as the down climbing is quite exposed at times. Lots of excellent features and pitches to create safe anchors for both belays and raps. A bear to approach from the Portal Creek side as no defined trail system exists back as far as you need. Another approach would be up over the ski hill and Terminal, Manx Peaks to the col. Expect a reasonable 2 days or a long 1 day by this approach or do it as part of the yet uncompleted (unknown) Circus Loop which connects beautifully over 7 peaks if you include Marmot Mountain in the mix. This peak deserves more visits as it could easily be considered a real classic Rockies ridge climb similar in character to Tupper or Sir Donald in quality and aesthetics. Good radio and satellite communication from this location but no wayward cell coverage, though you can get a signal from the top of Manx peak. It's worth it's weight to consider carrying a Spot, Inreach or similar PLB or Sat phone for emergency communications. 

Deryl Kelly and Tim McCallister

Jasper Visitor Safety

Jasper National Park

      

[MCR] Other: trail conditions for Mount Assiniboine PP June 30 - July 3, 2015

Hi Folks 

With friends, nice days were spent at Mt. Assiniboine Provincial Park.

Trails we travelled from Mt Shark, as well as around the core of Mt. Assiniboine and Wonder Pass are all in excellent conditions. No snow left (including Wonder Pass) and the vegetation is at least three weeks ahead. Lots of wildflowers still.

All bridges on our route were in place and campsites along the way seem to be dry.

Happy Trails, Martina

ACMG Hiking Guide

[MCR] The Fist - Kananaskis Country - Rocky Mountains

Went up the "normal" route on the Fist today. One small patch of snow on ascent is easily avoidable, and no ice axe is needed. Rockfall was managed by re-grouping and moving through the terrain strategically (there is a lot of rockfall potential on this route!).

Conditions in this region are several weeks ahead of normal in terms of snow melt. Local peaks such as Birdwood, Commonwealth and Smuts look to be in good condition.

Play safe!

Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rogers Pass - Hermit Meadows Peaks

Just back from a few days at Hermit Meadows where our team completed ascents of Mt Rogers, Swiss Peaks, Truda Peaks, and Mt Tupper.

We experienced mostly supportive snow travel on the Swiss and upper Tupper glaciers. There is bare ice up to 2700m on the Swiss glacier increasing daily, but still avoidable. The bergschrund at the base of the Swiss face is still filled in the centre but opening on both sides. We found crampons helpful to ascend the face in the early morning, but unnecessary to descend the Truda couloir late afternoon. The Swiss Peaks traverse is mainly dry with the only snow at the junction with S Face route bypassing the gendarmes.

Truda Peaks S Ridge is also dry.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 02, 2015

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 02, 2015 Temperatures have returned to more seasonal norms lately but conditions are still far ahead of normal. There have been reports of great alpine climbing conditions on both rock and ice routes in the Rockies and Columbia Mountains. The winter snowpack continues to melt rapidly and reports have indicated generally favourable travel on snow and glaciers. As the snow cover thins, the snow bridges over crevasses have become weaker and I know of at least one person who had a leg break through in the last week. There are still snow patches to negotiate and they are likely going to be deep and soft later in the day. Caution for wet snow, point release avalanches is still advised in exposed areas late in the day. People have reported great conditions on routes like the Beckey-Chouinard in the Bugaboos, NW Ridge of Sir Donald in Rogers Pass, Mount Louis, Castle Mountain and routes on Mount Athabasca and Mount Cline. Probably a good indication that many other routes are in good shape as well. The weather forecast for the weekend is generally good in all of the forecast areas with only a slight chance of rain predicted in the Rocky Mountains on Saturday. That said, I’ll still be keeping my eyes open for potential thunderstorms building and rising creek levels in the afternoons. Have a great weekend! Marc Piché ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies: Lake O'Hara - Wiwaxi Peak etc.

We climbed Grassi Ridge on Wiwaxi Peak above Lake O'Hara yesterday in
absolute solitude and beautiful weather. There is still some snow to deal
with, about 8 steps of traversing each on the approach and descent, but
both worked reasonably well for us not carrying ice axes. I haven't done the
route in 5 years or so and I was pleasantly surprised to find a few sparsely
and wisely placed bolts, largely at the belays and rap stations , which make
the climb a whole lot safer. We avoided the last bit (about 100 vertical
meters) of descending through the dreaded "ball bearing" dirt couloir by
sticking with the treed rib just descender's right. This descent variation
seemed lightly travelled and weaves nicely through small treed cliff bands
typical for the quartzite geography of the Rockies. It eventually joins the
hiking trail just before it heads into the avalanche path above the lake.

On a general note, looking at the higher glaciated terrain, the current
residual snow coverage appears more typical for late July than late June:
Bare spots are starting to show on the glaciers, the Huber Ledges are snow
free and so is largely the "All Souls" hiking traverse below the NE Face of
Mt. Shaeffer.

Have a great summer!

Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)
 
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
+1 403 678 2717 or 1-800-506-7177

[MCR] Valhallas, Southern Selkirks

Hi all,

Just a quick note regarding access and conditions in this neck of the woods. We just came out of a 3 days trip in Mulvey Basin yesterday.

Access is pretty rough at this time, a high clearance 4 X 4 vehicle is required to get in. Parks was actually in there this week-end trying to improve it. Looks like you could get in with larger trucks now. Forestry is scheduled to start improving the road this summer, this will be a nice change.

Alpine rock climbing conditions are really good and most south facing routes are dry and climbable. There is still lingering snow and wet rock on north facing routes. Snow has been melting fast this year and it looks more like mid-July at this time. There is still plenty of snow at the Gimli campsite for water. The north side of the Gimli col is still sporting good snow and we did not use crampons but an ice axe was useful.

Have a good start to the summer climbing season!

David Lussier

Mountain Guide

www.summitmountainguides.com