We opted for the walk off descent gully to the west, and although not an otter slide, it is in good condition and a quick option for getting back to the car.
Monday, November 30, 2015
[MCR] Guinness Gully
We opted for the walk off descent gully to the west, and although not an otter slide, it is in good condition and a quick option for getting back to the car.
Saturday, November 28, 2015
[MCR] Icefields Parkway Inversion
Hello,
We climbed on the Parkway today and experienced a strong temperature inversion. Although temperatures along the road were near -17 when we got back to the truck, we were able to belay without gloves most of the day. We observed lots of running water, some collapsing ice pillars and numerous small, wet, loose-snow avalanches on steep sunny aspects on the drive home.
The forecast is calling for even warmer temperatures over the next couple of days.
All the best,
Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide
marc.piche@icloud.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
[MCR] Bow Lake
Tim Ricci and I had planned to ski Little Crowfoot today but we got concerned about the thickness of the ice on Bow Lake. When we got there, it did not look inviting with what appeared to be open leads. I have skied along the summer trail before under similar early season conditions and that option is not great.
We opted for the east facing basin north of Little Jimmy Simpson. We found no signs of instability and good skiing conditions.
Marc Ledwidge
MG
Tuesday, November 24, 2015
[MCR] Carlsberg Column, Field, November 24th, 2015
We climbed Carlsberg Column in Field today. The route is in, but thinner than normal and the bottom third is wet, so bring gore-tex. We were able to find good protection with full length screws.
We bailed on our original plan to climb Twisted, which looks in good shape, because the Yoho Blow was pumping and we were worried about fresh windslabs on the approach.
~5 cm's new snow this AM with moderate E winds causing lots of small spindrift avalanches on Mt. Stephen. Skies were clearing and winds dying as we left midday.
We also climbed Guiness yesterday, which was in, but thinner than normal making it runout at the top of the last pitch. Heads up walking between pitches as there are still unfrozen rocks that could accidentally be dislodged.
Attached photos are Super Bok, Pilsner and Calsberg/ Kronenburg
Ian Jackson and Jonas Hoke
Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Sunday, November 22, 2015
[MCR] Parks Canada-Glacier National Park-Winter Permit System begins tomorrow
THE WINTER PERMIT SYSTEM BEGINS TOMORROW IN GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
FOR 2015/16 WINTER SEASON
The 2015/16 Winter Permit System is in effect from November 23, 2015
until the seasonal end of the avalanche control program. Large areas
of Glacier National Park, including all slopes that face the
Trans-Canada Highway and Canadian Pacific Railway line, are either
prohibited or restricted to the public.
The Winter Permit System allows backcountry users to enter Winter
Restricted Areas that are part of the highway avalanche control
program when artillery gunfire is not anticipated in those areas.
This system protects the public from avalanche control actions in the
transportation corridor, but it does not render slopes safe for
winter recreationalists. Backcountry recreationalists require a valid
Winter Permit to enter Winter Restricted Areas. Daily and Annual
Winter Permits are free, however permit holders are expected to have
a thorough understanding of the Winter Permit System, (scroll below
for more information).
Annual Winter Permits may be obtained by taking the online Winter
Permit quiz.
You will be required to accept Terms and Conditions and sign a Waiver
of Liability and Indemnity Agreement before your Annual Winter Permit
is issued.
Annual and daily individual Winter Permits will be available all
season at the Rogers Pass Discovery Centre.
Rogers Pass Discovery Centre open 7:00 am - 4:00 pm daily
Closed 12:30 - 1:30 Tuesday – Friday
No stopping zones on the Trans Canada Highway will be in effect as
indicated by highway signs. Recreationalists are reminded to use
Parks Canada designated access routes that ensure safety near CP
railway lines.
It is the responsibility of park visitors to ensure their actions are
safe. Further information can be obtained by visiting the Rogers Pass
Discovery Centre. Information is also available by phoning Parks
Canada in Revelstoke at (250) 837-7500
Percy Woods
Visitor Safety
Glacier & Mount Revelstoke National Parks
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
FOR 2015/16 WINTER SEASON
The 2015/16 Winter Permit System is in effect from November 23, 2015
until the seasonal end of the avalanche control program. Large areas
of Glacier National Park, including all slopes that face the
Trans-Canada Highway and Canadian Pacific Railway line, are either
prohibited or restricted to the public.
The Winter Permit System allows backcountry users to enter Winter
Restricted Areas that are part of the highway avalanche control
program when artillery gunfire is not anticipated in those areas.
This system protects the public from avalanche control actions in the
transportation corridor, but it does not render slopes safe for
winter recreationalists. Backcountry recreationalists require a valid
Winter Permit to enter Winter Restricted Areas. Daily and Annual
Winter Permits are free, however permit holders are expected to have
a thorough understanding of the Winter Permit System, (scroll below
for more information).
Annual Winter Permits may be obtained by taking the online Winter
Permit quiz.
You will be required to accept Terms and Conditions and sign a Waiver
of Liability and Indemnity Agreement before your Annual Winter Permit
is issued.
Annual and daily individual Winter Permits will be available all
season at the Rogers Pass Discovery Centre.
Rogers Pass Discovery Centre open 7:00 am - 4:00 pm daily
Closed 12:30 - 1:30 Tuesday – Friday
No stopping zones on the Trans Canada Highway will be in effect as
indicated by highway signs. Recreationalists are reminded to use
Parks Canada designated access routes that ensure safety near CP
railway lines.
It is the responsibility of park visitors to ensure their actions are
safe. Further information can be obtained by visiting the Rogers Pass
Discovery Centre. Information is also available by phoning Parks
Canada in Revelstoke at (250) 837-7500
Percy Woods
Visitor Safety
Glacier & Mount Revelstoke National Parks
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.
[MCR] Parks Canada - Ice climbing rescue practice - Guinness Gully, Field - November 23, 2015
Parks Canada Visitor Safety is planning on conducting a waterfall ice rescue practice tomorrow (November 23rd) on Guinness Gully in Field. We will accommodate other climbers as best we can but you can expect some delays if you are climbing there.
--
Conrad Janzen
Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
[MCR] Avalanche season in the Rockies
To all backcountry users in Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay National Parks:
It's avalanche season again, and Parks Canada will be periodically conducting avalanche control on all avalanche paths that threaten major highways in Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay National Parks. If you're planning on climbing or skiing in Banff, Yoho, or Kootenay Parks this winter, you need to be aware of which areas may be affected by avalanche control, and how to check if there is any control planned in these areas.
There will be signage located at common trailheads for Mounts Bourgeau (Banff), Stephen, Dennis and Field (Yoho), Mt. Whymper and the Simpson avalanche paths (Kootenay).
The signs look like this:
If the sign is flipped down and indicates that avalanche control is in progress, the area is closed for recreation: DO NOT ENTER. Most of the time, the signage will indicate that there is no avalanche control planned, and the area will be open for recreation.
In addition to the signage, Parks Canada will post warnings to: the public avalanche bulletin for Banff, Yoho and Kootenay, Parksmountainsafety Twitter and Facebook, the MCR, and community webpages such as Gravsports-ice.com, and Big-lines.com.
Remember, Parks Canada is conducting avalanche control to protect the highways, and is NOT making the areas safe for recreation.
Finally, be on the lookout for undetonated explosives while recreating in these areas, and contact Parks Canada at 403-762-1470, if any are found.
Please respect this system and check for closures before recreating in these areas, so that we can all continue enjoying the permit-free system that exists in Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay National Parks.
Have a safe winter!
Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
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