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Saturday, April 30, 2016

[MCR] South Coast Mountains. Currie to Wedge Traverse.

A new MCR Report has been posted on Mountain Conditions Report.

You can view it online at http://www.mountainconditions.com/reports/south-coast-mountains-currie-wedge-traverse.

The contents of the report are below.
You can also read all the reports, search using a map, and receive instant push notification on your iOS device using the MCR iOS App.


South Coast Mountains. Currie to Wedge Traverse.

Posted on Sat, 04/30/2016 - 00:00 by Dave Sarkany

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I guided the Currie - Wedge traverse over the last 4 days (with Altus Mt Guides).  Generally travel was on a good crust and corn snow. Cool cloudy wx allowed some new snow (up to 20cm) to accumulate above 2000m. This was sluffing up to Sz 2 on steeper slopes. Glacier coverage is still thick although crevasse sags are becoming quite noticable. Water runnels are evident and rock outcrops are prominent. Very spring like! We skied down to 1400 meters on the Wedge trail. The new start to this trail is now really good walking :) Dave Sarkany DSK Guiding

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Arc'teryx Equipment Inc · 110 - 2220 Dollarton Hwy · North Vancouver, BC V7H 1A8 · Canada

Thursday, April 28, 2016

[MCR] Mount Monashee, Northern Monashees

A new MCR Report has been posted on Mountain Conditions Report.

You can view it online at http://mountainconditions.com/reports/mount-monashee-northern-monashees.

The contents of the report are below.
You can also read all the reports, search using a map, and receive instant push notification on your iOS device using the MCR iOS App.


Mount Monashee, Northern Monashees

Posted on Thu, 04/28/2016 - 00:00 by David Lussier

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Hi all, We guided a ski ascent of Mount Monashee (3275m) in the Northern Monashee Mountains yesterday April 27th 2016. We access the mountain by helicopter from Valemount to a camp located at 2300m by a small lake on a bench feature just beside a large unnamed glacier at the headwaters of Moonbeam creek (52°24'25.92"N, 118°58'6.82"W). From our camp location we ascended broken glacier terrain in a Southeasterly direction between Mount Lempriere and Torii Mountain towards the Sepentine Neve. Once on the Neve, we continued up the steepening Northwest facing slopes of Mount Monashee on skis to a 3220m shoulder just West of the main summit. Boot crampons and ice axe were used for the short mixed snow & rock scramble via the West ridge to the summit. The ascent was done comfortably in one day from camp (950m ascent over 5km). Similar to our previous trip to the Cariboo Range, there was about 5-10cm of recent new snow above 2800m overlying a very firm 5-10cm crust. This crust was present at all elevation and aspects, it made for great travelling conditions and mostly stable snowpack. The snowpack was firm and dry in the morning and moist on solar aspects in the pm. We saw no signs of instability and measured upwards of 300cm of settled snow on the glacier above 2500m. Another highly recommended Spring ski mountaineering tour! Cheers, David Lussier acmg mountain guide Kenton Lambert acmg apprentice ski guide www.summitmountainguides.com

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Arc'teryx Equipment Inc · 110 - 2220 Dollarton Hwy · North Vancouver, BC V7H 1A8 · Canada

[MCR] Sir Wilfrid Laurier, Cariboo Mountains

A new MCR Report has been posted on Mountain Conditions Report.

You can view it online at http://mountainconditions.com/reports/sir-wilfrid-laurier-cariboo-mountains.

The contents of the report are below.
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Sir Wilfrid Laurier, Cariboo Mountains

Posted on Thu, 04/28/2016 - 00:00 by David Lussier

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Hi all, We guided a ski ascent of Mount Sir Wilfrid Laurier in the Premier Range of the Cariboo Mountains April 25-26, 2016. We had what felt like ideal Spring ski mountaineering conditions with clear skies, calm winds and good overnight melt-freeze recovery. We access the mountain via helicopter from Valemount to a camp located at 2080m by a small lake on a bench feature just north of the lower North Canoe Glacier (52°46'17.55"N, 119°40'19.29"W). From camp we ascended in a Northwesterly direction via the South Rib route to the summit comfortably in a long day (1500m ascent over 7km). We were able to stay on snow and ski all the way to the summit, ski crampons were very useful. The snowpack was firm and dry in the morning and moist on solar aspects in the pm. There was about 10-15cm of recent new snow above 2900m overlying a very firm 5-10cm crust. This crust was present at all elevation and aspects, it made for great travelling conditions and mostly stable snowpack. We measured upwards of 300cm of settled snow on the glacier above 2500m so good coverage up there. There glaciation on the south side of this peak seems to have lost a fair amount of volume since the last topographical map update. The edges and elevation profile of the glacier has receded and is different than suggested by the map. This lead to unexpected exposed rock in places where glacier ice should have been. That said, the route was easily negotiable. A highly recommended Spring ski mountaineering tour! David Lussier acmg mountain guide Kenton Lambert acmg apprentice ski guide www.summitmountainguides.com

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[MCR Regional Summary] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued April 28th, 2016

A new Regional Summary has been posted on Mountain Conditions Report.

You can view it online at http://mountainconditions.com/regionalsummary/acmg-mountain-conditions-summary-rockies-and-columbia-mountains-issued-april-28th.

The contents of the report are below.
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ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued April 28th, 2016

Posted on by Larry Stanier

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Over 3 weeks of WARM weather has eaten up the snowpack below 1700m in most places except along the Divides of the Rockies and Columbias. Before this last bit of precipitation it was hard to imagine theer being a dry snow flake anywhere except maybe in a little shaded pocket somewhere just below the summit ridge of Mt. Robson or Sir Sandford. There is currently some new snow along the Rockies Divide at Bow Summit and supposedly even 8cm at the Stanley Glacier but it is showing 6 degrees C there so it may not be fluffy pow:) It is still possible to ski from the Asulkan and Connaught trail heads at Rogers Pass but you will be crossing some creeks if you head up the Asulkan Valley. Creek and especially Lake crossings may just be the crux of many traditional spring skiing venues right now. No swimming with ski gear is generally a good guideline to follow! Plain old bare ground will be a reality on many "ski" approaches. Having said all that, if you could get high enough and had some luck with the overnight recoveries the corn skiing and general travelling has been really good for awhile. It looks like a little more scattered snow may fall in the next couple of days and with the warm temps it should eventually bond well to the old surfaces. Thin Windslabs will likely be a factor for a short time after this storm ends. Large destructive wet slides and loose slides big enough to push around a skier or climber will be the primary concern for the foreseeable future. Cornices and crevasse bridges will be creaking and groaning and trying to decide whether to fail catastrophically or just melt away for a long time yet. Try not to help them with that decision! Alpine climbing conditions could get good quickly if we get some cool temperatures and good clear nights. They could also get really bad quickly if the freeze is mediocre and the sun/warm air gets to be the boss. Have a good plan, check the snow carefully, make wise decisions, move fast and have some good retreat options. Ice climbing-HA! Maybe in the alpine arena but I think it is safe to assume that all the classics must have fallen down or melted away. Rock climbing has been reasonable for a very long time in the sun. The ticks and the bears are out for awhile now and there has been the odd nasty spring rockfall event and new loose holds from the winter's melt freeze cycles. This is the first ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the season and in our new format. We will continue to produce these summaries till the public avalanche forecasts begin again in the fall. Larry Stanier ACMG Mountain Guide

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Wednesday, April 27, 2016

[MCR] Wapta Traverse Peyto-Sherbrooke Lake

A new MCR Report has been posted on Mountain Conditions Report.

You can view it online at https://www.mountainconditions.com/reports/wapta-traverse-peyto-sherbrooke-lake.

The contents of the report are below.
You can also read all the reports, search using a map, and receive instant push notification on your iOS device using the MCR iOS App.


Wapta Traverse Peyto-Sherbrooke Lake

Posted on Wed, 04/27/2016 - 00:00 by Tom Wolfe

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I guided a Wapta Traverse beginning at Peyto Lake trailhead early on April 21 and exiting Sherbrooke Lake yesterday April 26. We had typical mid spring conditions -- great in the alpine and rough below treeline. I don't think even a short weekend trip to the Wapta right now would be worth the effort. But if you're planning an extended ski mountaineering adventure, you're up for the challenge, and the temps continue to cooperate then get high and stay high: you'll be well rewarded. Few natural avalanches were observed in the alpine even during the hottest days -- some loose wet and wet slab later in the day in steep, solar, rocky terrain. We steered clear of solar aspects as the crust broke down by early afternoon. The weather throughout the week was an aesthetic mixed bag that never shut us down, ranging from stellar blue skies going over the Balfour High Col to slashing rain the evening after we rolled into Bow Hut. Alpine temps ranged from highs of +15 early in the week down to a low of -5 at 05:00 yesterday, with good crust recoveries every night. Peyto Lake was still in great shape a week ago but this has likely changed since then. The route from the lake elevation to Peyto hut required a couple of kilometers of walking with skis off but was otherwise fine. We skied Peyto Glacier from the top of Haebel to its terminus; Rhonda's E face; Gordon's normal route; Olive's W bowl; Diablaret Glacier; and Balfour Glacier. These had fun corn skiing and easy travel. Ski crampons were useful several times. On the way up to Balfour High Col we swung out briefly towards the E face of Balfour rather than straight up the steep & crevassed passage next to the cliff ("Hourglass"). There are a couple of surprise crevasses to watch out for -- the one near the top of the Diablaret (right in the fall line) and another near the bottom of the Vulture Gl, well below the icefall and also in the fall line, come to mind. Yesterday descending from Scott Duncan hut we had an early start and a strong freeze. Heaven help you if you are lacking either of those these days and find yourself in the trees. The Schiesser-Lomas route provided a straightforward descent to the valley bottom on hard melt-freeze crusts. From there, the canyon you soon encounter on skier's left (E) is not passable. We traversed right (W) through the woods and found that to be manageable all the way to the lake with a fair bit of careful survival skiing. We crossed Sherbrooke Lake. If you choose to do the same right now, in addition to a solid overnight freeze you'll benefit from nerves of steel and a sixth sense about the status of the underlying ice. The lake was flooded with watery slush covered by a sometimes-supportive crust. We teetered on the rails of old frozen tracks, which made it reasonable. We kept our skis on until the last kilometer and a half before the highway where windfall, isothermal snow and patches of bare trail slowed us down. It took us about 7 hours to get from Scott Duncan hut to Great Divide Lodge travelling at a very relaxed pace. If I had to do another Wapta in the near future I would probably choose to start at Sherbrooke Lake and head north. I'd flip a coin on the decision to exit via Peyto or Bow. There is good cellular coverage from the ridge between the Bath Glacier and Lilliput Pk. Tom Wolfe Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA

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Monday, April 25, 2016

[MCR] Bow Hut approach

A new MCR Report has been posted on Mountain Conditions Report.

You can view it online at https://www.mountainconditions.com/reports/bow-hut-approach.

The contents of the report are below.
You can also read all the reports, search using a map, and receive instant push notification on your iOS device using the MCR iOS App.


Bow Hut approach

Posted on Mon, 04/25/2016 - 00:00 by Dave Healey

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Hi folks, We attempted to get up to the Bow Hut yesterday and encountered advanced spring conditions. After 3 hours of multiple creek crossings (knee deep wading) and unsupportive, near isothermic snow, we arrived at the entrance of the canyon to find all snow bridges gone & a healthy water flow in the creek. We elected at this time to seek adventures elsewhere. Conditions have changed rapidly since I was here a week ago. There was no overnight freeze apparent yesterday morning, and checking the NPC Bow Summit weather station, similar conditions occurred again last night. Any precipitation was falling as rain yesterday, saturating a very weak snowpack. The lake is no longer useable - even travel along the shoreline was not recommended with open water & slush on the ice surface. Both first person reports (we encountered one party exiting from Bow hut with very wet feet & ski gear.) & recent third hand reports note difficult travel conditions, with one party taking 5 hours to reach the trailhead from Bow Hut. I would suspect that in addition to challenging travel conditions, that poor snow stability will be encountered with the lack of overnight freezes & rainfall saturating the snowpack. Spring transition is in full swing on this trail. Enjoy the challenge!

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Thursday, April 21, 2016

[MCR] Black Bands - Rock fall

A new MCR Report has been posted on Mountain Conditions Report.

You can view it online at http://www.mountainconditions.com/reports/black-bands-rock-fall.

The contents of the report are below.
You can also read all the reports, search using a map, and receive instant push notification on your iOS device using the MCR iOS App.


Black Bands - Rock fall

Posted on Thu, 04/21/2016 - 00:00 by Gordon Irwin

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Yesterday (Wed. 20 April) three friends had a close encounter with significant rockfall at the Black Bands area of Tunnel Mountain. They had climbed a number of routes, including the 5.9 Farrago. They were on their way down to the main trail when they heard massive rockfall that swept the Farrago route, and reported seeing rocks the size of a human torso. They did not go back up to inspect any damage to the route. The rock that came down detached from approx. 2/3 height on the route, but it is not clear what, if any bolts were affected. They did not feel any loose or hollow sounding rocks when they had done the route a short time prior. It was a warm sunny day, but there has been a prolonged period of warm weather in the Bow Valley, and the snow has been long gone from this crag and area. Given the early and mild start to the climbing season this year, this near-miss is a heads up that spring rockfall season is also with us, following a winter that included many freeze-thaw cycles to loosen rocks both large and small.

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