[MCR] Mt Columbia

Hello,

Nick Sharp, the Mountain Skills Semester and I just returned from Mt Columbia (May 28-June 2). Our trip consisted of approaching via the Saskatchewan glacier to the trench, summiting Mt Columbia and exiting via the Athabasca glacier. The snow line on the Saskatchewan glacier is at about 2200m so expect to be carrying skis for a long way. The snow depths however, quickly increase to well over 3 meters. Unsettled weather for the past 6 days provided a variety of white out conditions, about 15 cm of snow, and temperatures ranging from -11 to +15. On Sunday 10 - 15cm of snow fell at The Trench and was accompanied by moderate NE winds. We were expecting to find wind slab on the east face of Columbia but none was found and we were able to summit with perfect step kicking conditions.
Yesterday, with an early start, we descended the Athabasca glacier from a camp at 2800 meters. With a marginal freeze (-2.5C at 4:30am) we decended through snow flurries and into light rain by 2500 meters. I can't say it was an enjoyable experience. We were able to ski right to the toe of the Athabasca, which was a quick and easy way to finish the trip.

There was a fair bit of snow on Mt Athabasca and Mt Andromeda but with a good freeze and a caution for isolated wind slabs I think you could find good climbing conditions.

Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide

Nick Sharp
ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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