[MCR] Aberdeen

Climbed Aberdeen the other day (14th)  Route was in good icy conditions, with pitched climbing required to gain the bench in the middle as well as the upper headwall. The shrund crossing was fun and interesting. It will become more difficult as a key bridge melts out. Good screw anchors the whole way and soft friendly ice. Some rockfall observed off the cliffs on both the left and right side of the glacier tongue. Lots of rocks melting out of the glacier threatening to fall on climbers but if you get an early start so things are frozen and stay more right as you ascend the tongue this hazard is minimized. A small nut and small cam are useful for a belay at the bottom of the final rock step.

 

Jeff Relph
ACMG/ IFMGA Mountain Guide
jrelph@telusplanet.net
403-678-7035