[MCR] Humble Horse

Spent a cold blustery day on Humble Horse Sunday.  Lower glacier approach ramp holding pockets of snow to 60cm, making travel slow and time to seriously think about avalanche conditions.  The 'schrund  was well filled in by a large avalanche about 3 weeks old.  The first two mixed pitches climbed well on snow covered rock.  The glacier 55 deg ice above leading to the WI 3/4 pitch is melted away to ugly scree.  The WI 3/4 pitch is extremely thin taking 16cm screws on the lower angle bottom and 10cm above on the steeper ground.  Between spin drift, random rock fall and the next mixed pitches looking too thin for any protection we rappelled from here.  Descent was interesting as there was very few spots with enough ice for v-threds and the rock is very broken and falling apart.  In my opinion the route is not in. James Madden (ARG, ASG) Adam Burrell (WG)