Hi All,
I just finished a 5 day Mont Blanc program. Despite the really dry winter here, the higher elevation conditions in the massif this Spring have generally been good. In the last month, the weather seem to have shifted to a more unsettled Spring like pattern bringing snow at higher elevation periodically. Up to a meter of snow was reported a few weeks ago at higher elevation. As I am writing, it is raining hard in town and they are forecasting upwards of 40cm with strong winds above 3500m. The avalanche conditions in the alpine will be touchy for the next few days. In the short term, all this new snow will enhance-maintain the alpine conditions and normalize for the lack of snow this past winter. However, it could also be a short term band-aid. Below 2800m, things are pretty grim. The super dry winter has taken a toll and the glaciers are mostly free of snow and melting quickly. It looks more like mid-August than mid-June down there.
Many classic alpine mixed routes are still in good shape. The regular route on Mont Blanc du Tacul is not straightforward and has many open crevasses forcing some detours. It is also more threaten by seracs this year. The normal route on Mont Blanc (Arete Des Bosses) is in great shape and as usual well traveled. Before this last storm people were climbing some of the classic higher elevation south facing routes on dry rock. The lower elevation alpine rock routes in the "Aiguilles rouges" are generally snow free.
Wishing you all a great start to the summer season!
David Lussier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com
I just finished a 5 day Mont Blanc program. Despite the really dry winter here, the higher elevation conditions in the massif this Spring have generally been good. In the last month, the weather seem to have shifted to a more unsettled Spring like pattern bringing snow at higher elevation periodically. Up to a meter of snow was reported a few weeks ago at higher elevation. As I am writing, it is raining hard in town and they are forecasting upwards of 40cm with strong winds above 3500m. The avalanche conditions in the alpine will be touchy for the next few days. In the short term, all this new snow will enhance-maintain the alpine conditions and normalize for the lack of snow this past winter. However, it could also be a short term band-aid. Below 2800m, things are pretty grim. The super dry winter has taken a toll and the glaciers are mostly free of snow and melting quickly. It looks more like mid-August than mid-June down there.
Many classic alpine mixed routes are still in good shape. The regular route on Mont Blanc du Tacul is not straightforward and has many open crevasses forcing some detours. It is also more threaten by seracs this year. The normal route on Mont Blanc (Arete Des Bosses) is in great shape and as usual well traveled. Before this last storm people were climbing some of the classic higher elevation south facing routes on dry rock. The lower elevation alpine rock routes in the "Aiguilles rouges" are generally snow free.
Wishing you all a great start to the summer season!
David Lussier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com
